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SUGGESTION: POST the codes you came up with and how many miles on the car.Then we have information to work with. Normally pressure will be in the 80-90 psi range at start up and drop to 30-40 psi after warmed up. -
It's the WIN module...lots of dodge journey owners complaining of this problem...look it up on NHTSA! Wireless Ignition Node needs replacing...kind of a pain to get to behind the dash so it's about a $600 repair @ the shop... -
I have a 2018 dodge journey crossroad AWD V6 we just replaced the oil filter housing/cooler unit. It ran fine for a couple of days now the check engine light is on and it threw 5 different codes.(We did change the oil also). Now when I crank it and it idles down just below 1 rpm and I put it in gear the oil pressure shoots from 39/40 to 89/90. Any suggestions on what I may need to do now? I’ve been told that I may need an oil pump, oil pressure switch , throttle body control module and or an electronic control module. Could all this possibly go wrong at the same time? -
i have only "needed" to replace a caliper once, on the superdookie right at around 245K miles, and that was only because the piston itself had disintegrated...the caliper was fine, i just got lazy and didnt want to rebuild it then on the duster, i switched from front drums to discs, so i needed calipers for that but other than those two instances, i have never, ever had a caliper fail none of wich has any bearing on what dodge, or whoever their foreign stepdaddy was at the time, decided to screw in brake pistons -
Well, your "old" VW and many more vehicles are so equipped and are the "NEW" technology. IF you ran vehicles with as many miles/years as the one I do, when need comes to replace components you would probably scream at the price of those type calipers. Yes the Pacifica and Chrysler/Dodge minivans also went to the electric parking brake around 2017 Saab used the manual screw in pistons for parking brake use way back in the early 80's with the 99 model.....don't ask me how I know....LOL !
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im sure there are, but this is the first one i ever dealt with that couldnt just be ran back in even my old VW, which had an electric park brake (you push a button and a servo would "turn" the piston and apply pressure, when you let off the brake the piston would run the opposite way and release. with that design you could jump the servo terminals to any 12 volt DC source and run the piston in or out) i have never laid eyes on a brake piston that needed to be manually screwed in to replace pads
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By DodgeBruhBoy · Posted
Ok, thank you very much for the response. Ill check tomorrow when I get in. -
Just asking on why your thought on the subject. using makeshift or the proper tool? MANY cars with incorporated parking brake in the rear caliper have been around for at least 20 years now. And all have different "variations" of size pin/slots to engage the caliper pistons. Sure beats trying to get at traditional seperate under the disc hub parking brake shoes.....especially in "the rustbelt" Northeast!
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since you said the alt and the battery has been changed and then the prob developed I would also check your battery cables to make sure they are clean AND tight we had one person complain of some problems and then later on said m bad one of the cables wasn't tight making intermittent contact causing their problems, it is can be the simplest and and hardest problems to find loose connections and bad grounds as well on dodges
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