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hello everyone i have a 2014 journey and i done a engine swap and i cant get it to start. it turns over hard also. sounds like the battery is weak but its not. do i have to program the vin number from the journey i got this motor from in order for it to start? please help. im about to give up. thanks 

Driving first thing this morning, after about a mile, I feel a slight missing occurring.  For another mile, I wasn't sure if it was road bumps or engine.  Then it got worse...  No doubt... The engine was missing / running rough, and continued to get worse.  The check engine light started flashing.  The engine stalled when I came to a red light, but restarted.  Stalled again turning into a parking lot, but again restarted.  I stopped to read the codes ( I carry an ODBII reader), restarted, turned around, and said a prayer to hope to get home without a tow.  The car is now in limp mode and I cant exceed 25mph.  I slowly and safely make it the few miles home.  On parking the car, the exhaust smelled (fuel) rich.   CODES: P000D - Camshaft Position Slow Response Bank 2 P0018 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A P0175 - System Too Rich Bank 2 P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected   I spent time with my friend, YouTube, researching how the check, test, and evaluate, this series of codes. To cut to the chase, at least one of the videos had a checklist with CHECK THE OIL LEVEL / OIL QUALITY at the top of the list, and to start with an oil change. I checked the level and I was over a quart low.  I was due anyway for a change, so I changed the oil / filter, and crossed my fingers.  On measuring the oil drained, I was down almost 2 quarts.   WTF!  Putting the car onto the ramps before the change, it continued to run like 💩.  After the change, smooooooooth.  I then reset the codes and check engine light went off.  Took it for a several mile spin, and no issues, no codes, no check engine.  I'm in disbelief and still can't accept that a low oil level would create this type of issue.   I've got places to go (drive) tomorrow and will be a good confirmation of the repair.  I'll report back.   Anyone experience similar?   2014 DJ 3.6 FWD 176674 miles 7k miles since previous oil change 6 quarts and filter used on this change   Regardless of successful repair or not, the next question is what happened to the oil?  There are no leaks. I definitely will be checking the oil level more regularly now.    

So the 12+8 adapter plugs I'm where the SGM is, unplug two plugs from that and plug the adapter in    You then use the adapter as the OBD port    As far ad adding remote start, you need next to nothing    Think about it, you allready have remote door locks, and you allready have a button that starts the car    All the hardware is there  (On my truck, I even had the contacts for the remote start in the keyfob, I just needed a new inlay to use it)    So if your Journey is just like my truck, you simply need to turn "remote start" and "hood latch" to present    You then put a 500 ohm resistor in pin 12 of the BCM, (this is the pin on both my truck and my wifes charger, so dollars to donuts it is the same pin on your journey) tricking the car unto thinking there is a hood latch sensor, and it is closed and now your car is ready for remote start    I dont believe the push start key fobs have the hardware for remote start build in, so you will need to buy a new fob with the remote start button and program it to your car     

hello. I searched but did not find anything that matches my issue..   2016 Journey STX 2.4L while driving it will sputter a bit and show me the red lightning bolt light(acceleration control) which goes away immediately after backing off the gas. right after or at that time i get the traction control is off light. that light stays on until i cut the car off and then back on. then rinse and repeat, i get NO messages or any codes at all I've even driven it with the scanner hooked up. but nothing. it also seems to be okay until i give it a decent acceleration and then it happens.. not having much luck with Google so I'm asking here for ideas before i take it somewhere to get looked at i prefer to do the work if i can.  I'm able to toggle the traction control light as normal with the button when this is not occurring.. I get NO ABS light at any time also.   Any ideas??   Sam

strange, keep us posted, i would love to hear what they say   

Nope. It's a push button with passive entry. From what I've seen online, if you can get the PIN from the RFH, you can program new fobs with the remote start.   The funny thing is, I can go into the Body Computer and activate the remote start, enable to hood ajar sensor, I just can't program a key fob to see if it works. I can even reset the ECU. Under RFH, I can locate learned keys. I just can't get a PIN to work. And I have 2 of them.   I reach out to AlfaOBD directly. They had me send them a screenshot of the RFH Read System Status. They said "Please send me the output of the Read System ID feature for the RFH, I need the ECU Variant ID and ECU Version ID to check the Read PIN function." Hopefully, they can figure something out.

what do your fobs look like ?   if they are the kind that still "plug" in i betcha you have the circuits in the fob for remote start, but if it has a push button, you may be out of luck     

Cool you figured it out, very useful for people on this site. Are the 12 and 8 cables jointed together on harness and you just T in. Or are they plugged into modules, just curious.    Can you just add remote start option now if the hood switch is there and remotes have the capability? Might be rf modules, antenna wires etc that have to be there too.  My wife’s Journey already has it, nice option at times.   There are posts on this site from a guy who added this option and others to a base model Journey. Crazy wire harness work involved. Think he was retired.

Thanks for trying that. I really have no clue why this is happening. I bought the car used from a used car dealership, so not much on the history. The SGW was not secured properly. It only had one screw holding mounting bracket in place, so I wonder if it was replaced at some point and not synced to the car correctly. Or maybe the RFH was replaced and that's why I get the 2 different PINs. Or some other module that I'm not even thinking of. I do have a loose purple plug in there that I have no clue what it goes to. I don't remember how may pins it is.    Hopefully, I can get it sorted soon. My goal was to program the new fobs and activate the remote start function. This is just my luck though. I buy the car that can't be modified.   Thanks again for your help.

man, that is very strange, i tried to read mine out, following your post step by step and it shows mine just fine    i wonder if there is a setting that locks you out that might be turned on?    i have a similar issue with my wifes grocery getter ('15 pursuit charger) i always figured its a safety feature on that one since it was build as police car