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Having owned the 2013 since 2015 at 12,000 miles I am aware of the operation of the dimmer switch.    Checking the view of the backup camera is not conclusive.  If the camera is bad and the image is impacted, then the green, yellow, and red lines superimposed on the camera image would be brighter than the image itself.  That is not the case in the attached images. The photos were taken on a cloudy day. Direct sun on sunny days totally washes out the 8x4 display and camera image.    Is there a way to access any hidden menus on the 8x4 display? 

I get it. Like I said though, you say KYB and other people will say no lol. I've seen reports that they are also making their stuff in China... And they are SO, SO much more expensive. Who cares about the warranty if I still end up doing the job twice, right? Either way I can end up with twice the workload but at a fraction of the cost, or double/triple what I already planned. 😔    https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/qCLXDLi4gA   Like that thread for example has replys just a couple of weeks old saying their quick strut assemblies are not good. I'm not keen on reusing my OEM mounts and springs either.. Not because I'm afraid of the tool, but because I feel like they are probably trash at this point (120k miles) of Michigan roads. 

LOL...sorry but not sorry ,,,future complaint in the making,,,,wanting to buy the cheapest brand that you already are not really happy with and on the hardest parts to replace... I would go with KYB brand or OEM yes a lot more expensive but the rears are a lot of work from what I have seen and most often the cheap comes out the most expensive....

Just so I understand better.... you only get this vibration at speeds above 75mph?  A bad rim or tire would show up around 50 - 65mph. Thanks to my area, I dare not push speeds beyond 70mph and only in a short passing situation. Is the onset of this vibration felt more thru the steering wheel or from the floor/rear area? AND just how "severe" is this vibration? Is it an annoyance or "OMG" I have to slow down till it goes away????

wow that is fantastic information my friend! but first, their are two people with the same problem here mine did not have any impact at all. and all of the parts I listed I see that i forgot to mention all struts have been replaced as well....just to be sure here's the list again.  all 4 struts all 4 cv shafts, intermediate shaft,drive shaft with carrier bearing, all brakes and rotors,all hubs and wheel bearings, front steering knuckles with new ball joints, new tie rod ends,rear lower and upper lateral links, new Michelin tires, wheel alignment.  crazy huh?   I cant wait to try the front wheel drive test. I will keep you posted Thank-You again so much

I need to replace the rear struts on my 2017 Journey 3.6L AWD. Struts are something I hate researching because no one agrees on anything. Every brand is great and every brand sucks. Anyway, my rears are SHOT at this point. Body roll is crazy and there's zero dampening anymore, so anything is probably better. However, I have the 3rd row seats so it's a pain replacing them and would suck to have to do it AGAIN.   I put CarQuest Premium assemblies on the front last spring and they are already "meh"... I have a rattle over small bumps like my driveway and large cracks in the road, especially after a cold start in the morning (seems to quiet down after a mile or so 🤷🏼). I've also replaced just about everything else in the front, so I'm pretty certain it's noisy mounts. The only things I didn't replace are wheel bearings and sway bar bushings, but the bushings still "look" okay.    All of that to say, I'm looking at either CarQuest again for the rear (I'll explain why), or FCS Auto. Both are cheap, but right now, cheaper than cheap.    Right now the CarQuest Premium are on "wholesaler clearance" on Rock Auto listed as "Famous Brand" for only $125 for the pair. I cross referenced the part number to AAP website and they are exactly the same. Likewise, I found a brand new pair of FCS Auto on Facebook Marketplace for only $75. I could probably talk them down lower than that if I tried.    So which of these 2 cheap Chinese products would be better? My theory is that because it's the rear it shouldn't matter nearly as much because there's half the weight on them as in the front. 

Welcome to the forum. Unfortunately you did not give much background info of any thing you noticed when this happened for members here to "go on". Do the heat/ventilation controls work thru the display screen? and is this the 4" or 8" screen infotainment screen with auto temp controller? Are you able to do any investigating/ disassembly /repairs yourself or reliant on a shop/dealer to do your maint. work?

The controls on the center console are inoperable and the lights are out

you mentioned........ There was a small impact in aft RH wheel (you can see attached photo) but everything in the rear suspension has been replaced including the shock absorber with new parts. Balancing of all wheels done. All mentioned below parts are new as well: All brake rotors plus servicing of the calipers. Rear RH and front LH wheel hub/bearing Rear RH drive shaft                               so was the wheel bearing on which this damaged rim was replaced as well???? I see you said it was the same feeling with the 19 inch rims and the 17 inch rims as well that is why I am asking about the wheel bearing ..........good luck

NOT on a dodge journey but the same process to see if your problem is rear end related also this has been discussed here in the forum quite a bit on driving without the awd shaft installed you tube is full of a lot of info check it out