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Soft pedal is fixable with hydraulic brake systems. The rear calipers on these cars with the integrated parking brake set up have a tendency to start to seize up if not constantly used, have experienced it. The return spring becomes not strong enough to fully release pads. You can tell by looking at parking brake mechanism if it’s starting to stick a bit.   It also interferes with caliper function so brake bleeding difficult and soft pedal occurs. Either  buy a rebuild kit with seals or buy another caliper.  The second wheel down in your picture is not wearing evenly, it’s a rear wheel. I would start there. Small 4” piece of clear hose on bleeder screws helps see when air bubbles stop. Cross bleeder pattern front to back starting on passenger rear wheel. Don’t let master go low and allow air in to system. Or pay a mechanic with a vacuum bleeder unit.      

I've just done the big brakes upgrade on all four wheels of my car. Thanks again for the perfect guide. The only issue that remains on my car is the low and spongy brake pedal. It seems like there is no solution to it. I've tried at least 10 other cars with the same low and spongy brake pedal and I'm really puzzled how often it can be seen and even more puzzled that the owners don't care for it. Here is the result.

I reset codes twice, no results. I talked to a local shop and being I need to replace the rear motor mount he suggested checking my grounds especially where the electrical plugs into the valve body on the transmission. My task for tomorrow.

A lot of the diagnostic steps for your P0750 code and P0770 code are exactly what I suggested. Your latest posting of codes after replacing the alternator the previous time were most likely charging system codes. 

Last time I replaced my alternator I had codes as well (can't remember exactly which ones) and used my obd scanner to reset them.No problems since.

Thanks but no command functions on my reader.

I had it disconnected to change out the alternator.

Here is the info how to diagnostic the P0750 in a Journey 2.4P0750.pdf

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to let the modules reset? Can't hurt to try

I don't have a direct answer fix to your code problem, BUT........ When the battery totally died the 2x you had to charge i up to get home, did it "die" while at speed? It could have damaged the trans and thus the codes and stuck in 2nd gear. I would start by checking trans oil level and COLOR with the dipstick the 4 bangers should have for the trans. and if low or "burnt color/smell, drop the trans pan and look for debris. This situation does not sound like an electrical problem for the trans, but a problem of the trans brought on by loss of engine running which is the supply of rotation for the torque converter and oil pump of the automatic trans. Most ALL auto trans cars say NOT to tow/coast at more than 30mph and for ONLY SHORT DISTANCES. If you "coasted down to a stop with it still in gear, well I would fear for trans damage for you in that situation. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted, AND I hope my thoughts are not the case for you.