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Just as the PLASTIC T-Stat cover and stat are known to stick open, they can also do the reverse and only PARTIALLY open. I had this happen last summer with our '13 rt, and got the same situation as you have. I spent the $$ for the Aluminum stat housing and stat...NO problem since.

What ever came of this?     Also, to properly check the oil level, you need the special dip stick.  the level is very important.  do it as the instructions say.  Something the instructions don't mention is to do it with car running.  Also, when you did the coil pack, did you replace the little 3 (x2) little o rings on the tubes that connect to the rear of it?  Also, there is an o ring that goes to the main solenoid pack, did you replace those while you were there?  They do not come with the solenoid pack.  also, did you replace the torque converter solenoid?     Also, how did it go when you replaced the filter?  mine was a B word.  I thought it was a bad filter, but persisted and go it in.  Also, did you use a proper torque wrench?  the screws and bolts are crucial that you retorque them.  

Hi guys. Been a minute for me.    I have 2012 DJ 3.6 AWD. @ 160k miles.   Had it since new.   about a month or so ago, after a trans issue I had fixed, I merged on the highway with 70 - 80% throttle, temp started to climb to about 230-232. I controlled it with feather throttle and heat on blast.   We got to where we were going and came back with feather throttle.  Ever since temp creeps into 232 when going over hills.  If the ac is on, temp climbs to 228-230 on flat surfaces.  I live half way up a hill. Every time by the time I arrive home temp climbs to 230 -232   so far, engine oil looks clean, coolant filled, tank + cap replaced, thermostat replaced, oil cooler gaskets replaced, and have bled coolant lines several times.  note: I rebuilt the thermostat with advanced auto kit, problem got worse so I replaced the the whole thing.    the current radiator is 2.5 years old, and the thermostat had been replaced then too.  then it had a leak from the radiator.  I had used stop leak gunk prior to.  center heater core replaced when radiator too.    the fan is fine. It runs at slow and fast speeds.  there is no oil in the coolant.    the water pump seems to spin fine. No rattle, no leak.  There are no other coolant leaks.     observed: when gauge reads 228-230, With ir temp sensor, top radiator hose : 197 at the thermostat, lower hose: 142-150, random radiator position: 155.    cabin heat very hot.    At the tank, there is visual flow coming into the tank from small hose on top.  top hose feels firm at hot, and releasing cap vents pressure at hot.    copilot says inefficient radiator, Gemini says bad coolant flow from thermostat.    please help.   

Get a better scanner that does relearns.....will order it now.    Thank you for letting me know that the relearn can be done while the engine is off and while the car doesn't start, that is very helpful and was gonna be my next question.    I'll wait for the scanner to come in and get back to you asap with my results.       

Never attempt to open high-pressure AC refrigerant lines while the system is charged; high-pressure lines (often exceeding 200 to 300 psi) can cause severe frostbite or blind you. First, have a licensed technician evacuate the refrigerant using an automotive recovery machine. Once evacuated, disconnect the lines using a specialized spring-lock or disconnect tool. 

Hello friends, can you help me with how to open the high-pressure pipe in the refrigeration system?

The P0016 code needs to fixed first.   The PCM is seeing the camshaft position out of phase with the crankshaft position.   The PCM needs the timing to be correct to determine spark and fuel for the engine.   Causes:    Sensors and wiring    Mechanical timing chain and camshaft VVT solenoids.   Using a capable scan tool, the cam-crank relearn must be done. It's done engine off.   Using the scan tool you can check if the cam crank sensors are in sync.   The scanner may point you to a problem with a sensor.   The cam crank sensors must be in sync.       After that if the code is still present and the engine doesn't start. You will be looking into the mechanical aspect.   Timing chain and cam related stuff.

UPDATE: crankshaft position sensor - replaced Exhaust camshaft sensor - replaced   Status: Crankshaft (No start)   Codes still present:    P0016 – Crankshaft/Camshaft Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A) P000B – Exhaust Camshaft Position Slow Response P0562 – System Voltage Low   I am now checking for spark, there is no spark in Cylinder 1.

What if I change the CPS and it doesn't start? Whats my next step? What if I erase the codes and it comes back?   Im still getting the system violated low code too.

There is a cam crank relearn procedure on a bidirectional scan tool.   That has to be done to get the cam and crank sensors in sync.