Forums

Read this thread too.   https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18115-electrical-system-fyi-cables/

To answer your questions regarding the grounds on the driver's side strut tower.     On the large stud is a 2 gauge cable to battery. 2 gauge to the engine block ground stud.   On the middle stud is 4 gauge ground to the engine block somewhere.  I did that first before upgrading everything. Just left it on.

Hello,   First, when I did this work, I had too much bulk cable and time and got a little crazy.   First check out my thread on the battery below.   https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/     A realistic ground upgrade would be this.   Passenger motor Mount to strut tower ground studs.   This is a weak ground. - 4 or 6 gauge cable to replace small ground wire. - mending bar or wire stud to stud.   Driver's side strut tower battery ground stud.    - 2 gauge cable from this stud to the engine block stud.    Next to the electric vacuum pump. You need ⅜" size lugs on both ends of the cable.   -Running a cable inside to the factory stud on the passenger side kick panel. To the right of the glove box.   -A cable to the bolt to the left of the cabin air filter.   That is all you need.   I wish, I knew the length of cable to the interior. I don't.            

Hello Dean H.  It was very informative reading through this post, and helpful in my decision to make some of these modifications to help with some of my Journey's issues.  I would greatly appreciate gaining insight from a couple questions that I have, should you be available to answer them.  I read through this all thoroughly, but want to confirm a couple things.  From what I can see, from the drivers side strut tower, you made modifications including the 2" mending bars.  It also appears that a thick wire on the negative jump post was  added/changed/modified?  I know that the original front lug here is for the wire going down to connect to the battery behind the wheel well.  I just wanted some clarity as to what this seemingly new wire is for and where it goes?  Also on the smaller "middle" positioned ground stud on the drivers strut tower there is a new wire in the photos that travels down somewhere.  I'd like to know where this goes as well.  As I understand it, I need to run a wire from the engine ground stud under the vacuum pump into the car through the firewall grommet, alongside the transmission shifter cable.  If that is correct, I wanted to know about how long this cable needs to be, I want to cut the correct length... and to be sure, I can connect this same cable to the interior dash bracket (next to cabin air filter, behind glove box to the left, the brownish copper colored bracket that has nut/bolt already placed on it)?  I wasn't going to be running wires to under the seats at this time, and wanted to be sure that the wire ran to the dash bracket would ground the TCM and other important components here.  I greatly appreciate any insight and assistance with my questions.

Like they are saying, look closely at all wires. There are posts with pics on this site. My high 3rd brake light on hatch died, power ok but no ground. While soldering the one wire, could see three other wires showing wear. Electronic solder, heat shrink and tywraps are not expensive, just time consuming. Black polyurethane is good for waterproofing wire loom boot, along with small tywraps for strength. 

Thanks All! I have found the broken wire, fix it and now the trunk can be locked!  

you can also check out YouTube videos on this repairf as well very common on journeys along with the drivers side door locks and windows at the drivers rubber boot as well

EXACTLY RIGHT! And probably a couple more ready to break if not so already in the rubber boot upper left side of rear "tailgate" to the car's body.

A broken wire in the harness leading to the tailgate?

Hello, I have a strange problem. The car’s locking system works only for the doors, but not for the trunk. The only way I can lock it is with this knob. When I press the remote to lock it, nothing is heard from the trunk. However, since this knob locks it, the mechanism itself should be working. Has anyone had a similar problem?