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Well John/Horace.... You jinxed me by your posting his topic ! Of all the 5 DJ's we've got/had, only ONE has needed a right side CV Joint shaft....UNTIL NOW! Both the wife's 13RT and the new to us 17 crossroad need the intermediate shaft AND CV shaft. The 13 is so bad that it has done in the wheel bearing also.  Parts are ordered thru rockauto and with tax & shipping comes to about $410. us., and should be here on Monday. My buddy will install the parts on the 17 and if good weather holds, I will do the 13 here at home. It's going to be quite a "chore", so don't anyone be looking for pic's of how I go about the job. Suffice it to say, my plan is to "pop" the control arm down instead of the 2 strut bolts, as one has aftermarket eccentric bolt for camber adjustment there. I STILL WISH I HAD A GARAGE AND HOIST!!!!!!

Certainly a "novel" approach to a "sticky situation"!   In my climate area, we try our best to not have to remove the rotor dust shield as those small 6mm bolts tend to just snap off the heads and leave you with more "fixing" to do.

I figured I'd share this with whomever finds themselves fighting with stuck bearing assembly.    The bolts are regular 1/2 inch grade 2 carriage bolts with nuts and washers. I tightened the nuts up and gave the hub a good wack to break it loose then just worked it out by turning the nuts on the back of the hub until it came out. 

Change the transmission fluid and filter, i had mine quit providing output torque 2 years ago and it took 2 transmission fluid changes with filter but all problems went away.  I had 4 amateur mechanics tell me the transmission was bad. I'm stubborn and lucky. 

I was unable to jack my vehicle off the ground.   So, I cut through the seal from the inside.

Thanks for all the info.  I am currently working on these modifications.  Any advice as to how to reach the seal on the transmission shifter cable at the firewall?  I see from what was shared here on the forum that I will need to drill a hole through it, and although I have found access from the inside.. there isn't enough space for my drill, therefore would need to drill from the outside under the hood.  How were you able to reach this?  

Read this thread too.   https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18115-electrical-system-fyi-cables/

To answer your questions regarding the grounds on the driver's side strut tower.     On the large stud is a 2 gauge cable to battery. 2 gauge to the engine block ground stud.   On the middle stud is 4 gauge ground to the engine block somewhere.  I did that first before upgrading everything. Just left it on.

Hello,   First, when I did this work, I had too much bulk cable and time and got a little crazy.   First check out my thread on the battery below.   https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/     A realistic ground upgrade would be this.   Passenger motor Mount to strut tower ground studs.   This is a weak ground. - 4 or 6 gauge cable to replace small ground wire. - mending bar or wire stud to stud.   Driver's side strut tower battery ground stud.    - 2 gauge cable from this stud to the engine block stud.    Next to the electric vacuum pump. You need ⅜" size lugs on both ends of the cable.   -Running a cable inside to the factory stud on the passenger side kick panel. To the right of the glove box.   -A cable to the bolt to the left of the cabin air filter.   That is all you need.   I wish, I knew the length of cable to the interior. I don't.            

Hello Dean H.  It was very informative reading through this post, and helpful in my decision to make some of these modifications to help with some of my Journey's issues.  I would greatly appreciate gaining insight from a couple questions that I have, should you be available to answer them.  I read through this all thoroughly, but want to confirm a couple things.  From what I can see, from the drivers side strut tower, you made modifications including the 2" mending bars.  It also appears that a thick wire on the negative jump post was  added/changed/modified?  I know that the original front lug here is for the wire going down to connect to the battery behind the wheel well.  I just wanted some clarity as to what this seemingly new wire is for and where it goes?  Also on the smaller "middle" positioned ground stud on the drivers strut tower there is a new wire in the photos that travels down somewhere.  I'd like to know where this goes as well.  As I understand it, I need to run a wire from the engine ground stud under the vacuum pump into the car through the firewall grommet, alongside the transmission shifter cable.  If that is correct, I wanted to know about how long this cable needs to be, I want to cut the correct length... and to be sure, I can connect this same cable to the interior dash bracket (next to cabin air filter, behind glove box to the left, the brownish copper colored bracket that has nut/bolt already placed on it)?  I wasn't going to be running wires to under the seats at this time, and wanted to be sure that the wire ran to the dash bracket would ground the TCM and other important components here.  I greatly appreciate any insight and assistance with my questions.