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Ours has the vanity mirror lights, they are handy. I like the new clear adhesives for interior work. Gorilla glue or E6000, urethane based I think, easy to cut off excess, quite strong.  

Exactly what I was thinking. I currently have the headliner out, and now I have better access to the harness for the headliner.

Solder and heat shrink on a pig tail extensions. Takes less space then crimp connectors, conducts better. Electronic solder and paste flux. Multi strand copper,not single strand. Pop out the old broken mirror from visor, maybe glued in. If it's not hard to remove, do same with powered mirror, then solder new wire extensions right on hidden contacts on back of new mirror assembly. 

Here is a quick comparison of the two.       As you can see, the glass on the original sun visor broke, lol.   I also didn’t even notice that the new sun visors I bought also included Homelink, which should work since it’s already a transmitter itself.     As you can see, it is just a red positive wire and a black negative wire, not too much of an headache when it comes to wiring these up.   FYI, this is not an easy project. You have to drop the headliner a bit on the front so you can run the wires from up top.   Also, I was having trouble fitting the sun visors on at first, but then I found out that there is a little tiny route where the they mount to the roof, and that’s where the wires are supposed to go. If you don’t have the wires going through there, the sun visor won’t mount properly because of the wires being in the way.   One downside though, the driver side sun visor wires are way too short, so it’s gonna be tricky doing this one.

Good news. Still remove loose rust on hangers. Even a light film of grease or Rust Check green can spray on those brackets will slow down the rust.   If your really close to the ocean; salt in the air all the time rots cars fast. I've been all over the east coast, beautiful part of the country.

Thats a good idea. I poked around at it a bit further this evening, and there is a matching hole on the other side. And a hanger there. Turns out I was wrong. The hanger is actually welded the same way on both sides and both are attached as they should be. Theyre quite rusty (living on the east coast of canada so not surprised), but still solid. Im an idiot hahaha 

Even timing chains can wear out with bad luck, high milage, lack of maintenance.  Much easier to change a belt then a timing chain; always cheaper as well. My 2000 quad 4 chain tensioner never made 100k miles, and water pump ran off chain, brilliant.   The 2026 Honda Odyssey van still has a 3.5 v6 with timing belt. Kevlar reinforced belt and I'm sure most people exceed the 105k or 7 yr interval. Belt engines keep the engine oil a lot cleaner; no chain or gears in the oil flow.   My brother's 3.5 fca motor went beyond 200k miles...with belt and water pump changed. He drove it to an auto wrecker; rust killed it, not the 3.5 reliability. The 3.6 was bought in because of emmission regulations, I believe. Also a very decent engine.

Good pics ! If the oversized hole is accessible from behind, a 6" long length of threaded rod with washers could be long term fix. Cheaper than welding.   Welding by the plastic fuel tank won't be popular with most shops.     Chicken wire fished through both visible holes could be wrapped around or through the hole on the rubber biscuit hanger part. At least give some support until full fix. Wire brush off the loose rust off muffler hanger stud first; then wd40 or even dish soap to lube up rubber hanger; allow it to spin and align at new correct location.    

While doing a checkup on my journey earlier, I noticed that the last exhaust hang at the rear end has detached from the body itself - im attaching pictures.   Im guessing that a new one would need to be welded on? Is there any other option? The hanger on the other side is still intact, but i dont want to risk leaving it too long - and the shops ive called are booked up for the next several days. Id prefer a diy option if possible. I tried finding videos of the same issue, but nothing came up.

I must have missed reading of your care in maint. for your past '09 ride. When I first came to this forum, there were many folks posting of having broken timing belt problems, and very few that I found of even supporting the need to replace according to the "book". Yes 100k miles or 7 years if I remember correctly, and an engine used in many Dodge models of the "era" and why I always "steered clear" of having one with the 3.5 and worse was the 2.7.