Forums

A full charged lead acid battery is around 12.3-12.8 depending on temperature it's in.   The remote hood terminals will show slightly lower voltage, if you scratch probes for good contact, should still measure above 12 volts. Like 5rebel9 is saying, it's the amperage that does the work starting the car. Load test at parts store will find that number. Winter needs ar least 3-4 hundred amps.   The push button start makes the journey more sensitive to low voltage battery issues. 

havent really seen much on here about the hatch lift struts, but a neighbor kia I was checking something out for them and the hood almost got me as it slammed shut, but got to wondering about mine on my 2014 and ya after pushing the electric open switch I have to lift it up quite a bit for it to open at least it stays open tho, got me to wondering and after checking we don't have to much in options, either OEM for about 80-100 plus tax for each one or some off amazon only about 2-3 brands  to choose from but one manufacture stands out over the others with a 83% rating with a bunch of journey owners say they have held up for them  price is about $25 for both of them so makes me wonder how good they actually are...didn't see none on rock auto Went ahead and ordered them so we will see i guess,I'll post the results as well got to checking I guess no journeys have the lifts for the hood,oh well the proper rod still works great for me

I did the relearn, i remembered i did that long time ago. Followed the instructions and that didn't help. The car shuts off at an intersection. Then if i press the pedal hard it will trigure limb mode.   I went through my reset. And found that the crank sensor is the only one not OEM Mopar, its NAPA. Could it be causing issues, or the time chain.  

Hi. The cide is "P0017 Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment - Bank 1 Sensor 2"   All sensors are OEM. and i have an obd bidirectional scanner, and in special functions i couldn't find the relearn procedure. Is there a special way.   The belt was a challenge when it was tight, not now. And i dont  realy want to do the timing chain, i have had enough unless there is no other option.   Thanks.

What codes are coming up. If the chain is stretched and worn it will set codes. Get it scanned first.   If the drive belt (it's actually called a surpentine belt) was a challenge; don't go near a timing chain replacement. Much more difficult, several hours work for trained mechanic with the proper tools.   Cam and crank sensors usually have a relearn procedure. Not necessarily plug and play, especially if not oem factory parts.

Hi. As you now I own 2010 journey 2.4l.  and I have done alot of maintenance procedures to it, new oil pan, transmission pan and filter, new injectors, new ignition coils, new VVT, new spark plugs, vavle gasket, intake gasket, cam sensors, crank sensors, flushed power steering fluid, front and rear control arms and pushing and suspension, new throttle body, new map sensor.  Had a major issue of cylinder one miss fire for more than a month, it was reaolved finally by erasing adaptive settings and doing a transmission relearn. Was a big headache at the time. Three years later i add 40000 km to odometer, now reaching 330000km. The car gives a cam/ cranksensor error even with new sensors. The Car when driving from a stop some times just cant shift easlynfrom 1st to 2nd unless I ease the gas pedel/ throttle.  I believe the timing chaing is loose/ off even though it feels stiff and not stretched. But it is the main culprit l.   As the car value is not that much, and the cost of timing chain replacement at a shop might exceed its value, how hard it can be to replace the timing chain by my self (i uave no issue fixing anything as most of the car repairs were done by me). Do I need to replace the cam gears and the crank gear.    One thing we noticed two years ago,  the Drive Belt came off/ snapped, went to the autopart shop and got an exact replacement, but it didn't fit. No matter how much i stretched the tensioner it was small and short. Went back with both the old and new one to the dealers and they gave the exact one and told me i was doing it wrong. It didn't fit. Called a mechanic he came and reied both for 2 hours and couldn't get it on.  I towed the car to a shop, they tried the OEM ones and none fit, they told.me they had to get a one inch bigger belt to fit and they dont understand whtas going on with car.    I dont want to pay a lot of money to fix the car as its not worth that much except for me. I want to fix it and use for a couple of month the pass it for free to someone who wants a car and cant afford it.   Thanx  

going to all the trouble of pulling the battery, JUST replace it as 4 yrs on a journey is pretty good, they like a strong battery... that said make sure the connections are clean and tight when you finish and use some anti corrosion spray as well....make sure you replace with the correct size and group number as well,,,you can have the old one load CHECKED along with the ALT  at your local part store using the remote connections under the hood where you jumped started it..welcome to the group as well

I am definitely planning on pulling the battery today and taking it to an auto parts store to get tested. I'll have to pull the wheel and fender liner; poor design but not really too big of a deal relatively speaking (I just fed this car all new brakes and both front wheel bearings) and from what I can see from up top, the posts and connections on the battery itself look pretty crusty. I'll give those a good clean while I'm in there. Thanks for your reply!

Sorry to hear of your issue, not fun when away from home to have happen. As for electrical(battery), it is not just volts but cranking amps available in the battery. And as us  "old timers" would say, a dead or dying cell inside the battery.  Not the most fun to get to the battery but good clean posts and cable ends at the battery are critical for keeping the overall system happy. MY "bet" is dirty battery connections and a dying battery.

Hi all,   New here! My wife has a '14 Journey SXT with the 3.6, which has been acting up on her recently. Pretty similar to what GriffinJourney was reporting this week with his. We drove it around doing errands on sunday and it was completely fine. On monday she complained of a no crank no start, which I confirmed when I got home, and cleaned all the grounds under the hood, put a new starter fuse and relay in, tried starting in neutral, and smacked the starter. Nothing. Tried jumping it with my car figuring maybe the battery was on its way out, and after I tried jumping it started freaking out on me, flickering lights, thermometer reading -40F, not detecting the key, the whole nine yards. Additionally, when I try the dead key battery method (pressing the start button with the fob), it goes into accessory mode and I can hear relays clicking wildly under the hood, mainly the wiper on/off relay but also the hi/lo and main relay a little bit. They do not stop unless I pull off the remote negative terminal.   Haven't tried checking battery voltage at the remote terminals yet, but she says the battery is maybe 3 or 4 years old. I have not had issues with batteries of that age in the past but maybe Journeys are sensitive to that sort of thing. I know they do not have the best electrical systems so I will be upgrading the grounds as per Dean's guide.   I am confused as to why it only started doing this after jumping, before it was a pretty straightforward no crank no start, now it's going crazy. If it matters, I was jumping it with a 4-cylinder. Considering trying with my Supra instead. I am hoping it's just a dying battery and not a short somewhere; I was not getting any voltage or charging warnings so I'm pretty sure alt is okay. Can anyone tell me what an acceptable voltage reading at the remote terminals is, and/or general advice or things to try? Thank you very much.