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Would be a pain, but if you have the oem radio try plugging it back in. Was the android box installed with an interface box to enable heated steering wheel, 120 volt inverter, anything without physical switches ? Try unhooking it if you added one to dash harness.   Locosiete on this site has battled with canbus. Try messaging him. More electrical skills than the rest of us. He disconnected main canbus feed, then traced back to find his problem. Search his posts, clever guy. Has a heavily modified Journey, killer sound system.    

We have now gotten to the root of what caused the original glitching. it was a broken battery cable. That was replaced in fixed. but now the system is still not communicating with the instrument cluster, the radio, the AC controls and remote start is not working.    I'm getting this trouble code:        Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) U0147 on a Dodge Journey means the car's computer has "Lost Communication with Gateway 'B'". In Chrysler and Dodge vehicles, this "gateway" function is typically built directly into the radio/infotainment and HVAC control unit, meaning the main computer can no longer "talk" to your radio or central dash interface.    Does anyone know how to fix it?    I have worked on it for several hours to no avail. and a mechanic has worked on it for 4 hours and cannot figure it out either.    Does anybody know how to recreate the handshake between the computer and the can bus that you throw the stereo HVAC remote start etc. I have tried all of the solutions I've seen thus far online. if any of you have solved this problem please let me know. thanks in advance for your time. 

This is my girlfriends cars, she slacked on the oil changes for sure. My dad and I did confirm that the timing marks are lined up correctly, there is NOT any damage or etc either, my dad used to work on cars a long time and is doing the grunt work with me. He swears everything is lined up correctly. The vehicle has 95K miles, and sadly the cars warranty ran out at 90K, we tried taking it in multiple times when it was under warranty but they stated if its working/running without a consistent check engine light it can't be covered (multiple places told us this)...as the check engine like would go on and off on occasion.    Yes, the plugs are getting wet from gas and we tested the coils for power, ground, but it is NOT getting a signal from the computer to start (according to codes and research we did thats normal).

Concern with a neglected sludge engine goes beyond just chain. It means cylinder walls can have increased wear so compression can drop below functional level. It can mean oil pump in oil pan can be partly plugged up and also be worn. Oil pressure is used to run timing chain tensioner and the vvt cams. Oil is the life blood of an engine; critical item. Older engines with with minimal tec were more forgiving with missed maint. And we haven't even mentioned turbos yet.

Four cycles, intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. There are codes that will prevent a engine from starting; disabling either spark or fuel.   Like 5rebel9 is saying, you can't look at a chain and guestimate chain slack to know if it's ok. Timing marks would have to be lined up on both cams and crank shaft to see if it's off. Weak tensioner can allow extra slack, but engine can run rough if timing is slightly out. Beyond 10 degrees not likely.   How many miles on this engine? Sludge shows possible missed oil changes; so compression tester should be used to evaluate all cylinders. Are the plugs getting wet from gas ? Usually there would be a code if fuel pressure is low.   

We ordered the VVT solenoids but will probably install those tomorrow, and yes we will continue to watch youtube videos haha. 

I have a 2017 Dodge Journey, only 24K miles on it.  The rear climate control acts up and will not stay in the position where it blows air from the overhead.  It keeps switching back to blowing on your feet on its own.  At first I thought it was the rear controls.  I popped them off of the ceiling, and cleaned the wipers, but it still does it.  When I select air to blow from the overhead, it does switch to the overhead vents.  Then it switches back to the foot vents on its own.  Sometimes it switches back after 3 seconds.  Sometimes it is after a few minutes.  Not sure why.   I was going to replace the rear controller, but then I noticed that even if I lock out the rear controls, it still does it.  When I push the lock button, nothing I do on the rear controller should have an effect on the system right?  I can't change the fan speed from the rear controller, or the temperature.  But which vents still switch to feet.  This makes me believe something else is the cause.  Any tips on figuring out what is the cause?  Does anyone have a link to a good description of how the system works, or a wiring diagram for it?   Thanks.

did anyone figure out the issues with the stereo and AC controls not working after disconnecting battery. when my wife tried to start her car it was majorly glitching all the dash lights flashing on and off and would not start. I disconnected the battery for half an hour or so and when I reconnected it the radio and the AC controls do not work. also the instrument cluster is blanked out with simple arrows then when you click the arrows it shows what it should be such as miles per hour tire pressure etc. but the main menus are blanked out. I then left the battery disconnected overnight and when I came back this morning I put it on run and let it sit there for a minute or two thinking that it would load all the sensors etc and they still did not come on. this is an aftermarket Android radio but everything was working fine before the glitching and disconnecting of the battery. I see that other people also have had this problem and what did y'all do to fix it. I have alpha OBD but I can't figure out anything in there that would help either. thanks in advance for your help. 

We have a low voltage code still even though we replaced the battery, so there is a possible battery sensor/ground issue somewhere. I believe this is giving us the code which is preventing a startup, we are getting power to the coils, but no signal for startup (we were told thats because of the codes).

I remember a old guy always tell us, for a gas engine to run you need two things, one is gas, the other is spark, so it will be good to check what is missing of the two, from that you can have a idea if it is a sensor or fuel pump etc, of course you need to make sure you have compression on the cylinders.