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Yes, our '13 rt which did this on us is also the 8.4 screen with the alpine sound system. This was the first time that we both had our phones in the car at the same time. I could not get the settings screen to move until I "reset " the system by removing the HFM fuse and reinstalling the fuse.   I did not get the chance to look for seeing if there was a "prefered phone" setting on the '13, I know our '17 does but we have NOT had both our phones at the same time in that car yet. I have that one set for MY phone for the '17. When the wife gets home from work tonight, I will "check" for preferred phone setting on the '13 Unfortunately NEITHER car has NAV.   Thanks for the reply!   

Welcome to the site. How many miles on vehicle, model ?  How long have tires been in use; what is the wear pattern? Noise can be so many things.   Lower ball joints are very common wear item on journey front ends. Easiest test is tire off the ground and hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, for play. Shouldn't be up and down play.  While 3 and 9 oclock is good for tierod play testing. Our 2014 needed driver side ball joint replaced at 50k miles or 75k ish kilometers. Quality of roads driven on make a difference. Earliest yr of journeys 2009-11 had the cheaper suspension parts. Later yrs much better.

Found the old post again.  Haven't tried link.       https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

I have run two phones on a 2014 uconnect system for a few years. One phone is designated as the favourite. It's an older system so a little finicky, ours is an 8.4 screen but that shouldn't matter. Maybe pull both power fuses from radio so it has no power for 20 seconds. Then repair with Bluetooth to both phones. I know us older guys hate fighting with this stuff, but ....it is handy when it works right.   Haven't tried to update ours, but there is a firmware update on the uconnect web site. Copied to a USB jump drive and then uploaded, like map updates. I posted a link to the uconnect site a few years ago.    The Bluetooth module seems to be the thing that acts up the most with these uconnect systems. There is that New Jersey guy on this site who tests and reflashes the hfm modules; gives a recore for your old one. He seems legitimate and pricing not unreasonable. 

When I turn my wheel back and forth quickly, (tires turnned to the Right) you can see the move back and forth slightly off center and hear clicking/knocking noise. I didn't have time to go any deeper into it yet. The tie rod didn't move, had my hand on it and it didn't move. I'm suspecting its the ball-joint and or control arm bushings, thought?   Thx   Aaron

Well, I learned something about the HFM system operation on Saturday. Our '13 RT has always worked fine....UNTIL I paired my phone to it along with the wife's phone. Saturday we were both together and "out and about with both of us having our phones with us and found that the HFM locked up and not working even the audio voice command for radio was not working. So when we got home I went and got to the interior fuse panel and pulled the fuse for HFM, it was not blown but put a new fuse in anyway and all functions returned. I guess having multiple paired phones at the same time in the vehicle "confuses" the HFM. I guess I will have to learn to unpair my phone when we go out together BEFORE starting out when we both have our phones....She gets many more calle than I do.     OR does anyone have a better solution for this situation?

Ours has the vanity mirror lights, they are handy. I like the new clear adhesives for interior work. Gorilla glue or E6000, urethane based I think, easy to cut off excess, quite strong.  

Exactly what I was thinking. I currently have the headliner out, and now I have better access to the harness for the headliner.

Solder and heat shrink on a pig tail extensions. Takes less space then crimp connectors, conducts better. Electronic solder and paste flux. Multi strand copper,not single strand. Pop out the old broken mirror from visor, maybe glued in. If it's not hard to remove, do same with powered mirror, then solder new wire extensions right on hidden contacts on back of new mirror assembly. 

Here is a quick comparison of the two.       As you can see, the glass on the original sun visor broke, lol.   I also didn’t even notice that the new sun visors I bought also included Homelink, which should work since it’s already a transmitter itself.     As you can see, it is just a red positive wire and a black negative wire, not too much of an headache when it comes to wiring these up.   FYI, this is not an easy project. You have to drop the headliner a bit on the front so you can run the wires from up top.   Also, I was having trouble fitting the sun visors on at first, but then I found out that there is a little tiny route where the they mount to the roof, and that’s where the wires are supposed to go. If you don’t have the wires going through there, the sun visor won’t mount properly because of the wires being in the way.   One downside though, the driver side sun visor wires are way too short, so it’s gonna be tricky doing this one.