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Fuses are my next step. I’ll try resetting first then new fuses. Keep everyone updated. Thank you for your knowledge.

From the ppl I’ve talked to, they’ve mentioned fuses too. Thank you for the location! I will be trying this very soon

The fuses to check are on the interior fuse box. Located below and to the right of the glove box. F128 radio F126 audio amplifier If okay. Try resetting them both by removing the fuses. Wait then reinstall.

Got the PO6DD code.but also when I go to kick the gas pedal down to get and go it does not kick down. It just gradually gains speed. And my oil psi does not go up past 37 psi. It does not bog down just no get and go. It Just hit 160000 miles, only issue ever had was , we hit a deer years ago. And was repaired. Oil had been change less than 3000 miles ago.and is clear. Only drive car 16 total miles a day.

This seems to be part of the problem I'm having. The same issue occurs when I use the temperature switch for the AC display, but every other setting is retained. Happy to say that I managed to change the display since I have time to play with it now, but it comes with caveats. The fix: Raise > Dodge Challenger > 2019-Now > Low You have to switch back to the proper protocol and vehicle after you do this. The canbus decoder isn't going to listen for rear climate changes from the switches and you won't have on screen options for it or other vehicle specific options. Changing back to the right protocol and vehicle while running seems to retain the setting. We'll see if it reverts back later. I'll hit up the vendor again and see if they have other files, but this recent one doesn't even show Unit Setting when I have the right vehicle and protocol selected (probably because they know it doesn't work right).

2016 Dodge Journey 2.4 fuel pressure spec is: 58 psi + or - 5 psi.

I've been researching this for a while, I did find in another forum that someone else had the same problem with a different vehicle and the problem was that the canbus unit doesn't save the settings when it's powered off, the user fixed the problem by supplying a constant 12v to the canbus so it would stay powered while the vehicle is off, not sure how that would affect the battery though. It would be nice though if we could just set imperial to the default somehow, maybe alfaobd would let us override the default configuration somehow. If you do find anything let us know.

At first I just went through every single option turning things on and off. I was also using the OuDi protocol at first and not Raise. I honestly couldn't tell you if something I did actually changed it or not or if it decided to itself, because the next time I started my car after it "worked" it was back to metric. In general I made sure to set everything in the unit from time to region but it doesn't seem to make a difference anymore. I'm going to see if it's possible to change through some other methods like AlfaOBD. NOTE: At first I had a Unit Setting option under both protocols that I tried changing but it didn't seem to do anything. After updating the software I no longer have the unit setting option under Raise, so maybe it's not supported? Might be worth trying it after selecting another vehicle with that same feature.

I'm currently having the same problem with a unit I bought from temu, everything works using the Raise protocol for the canbus but cannot change metric to imperial on the display above the steering wheel. Do you remember how exactly you got your to change to imperial ? There should be a way to make imperial the default mode.

Surely a dealer could provide this information? Or a mechanic that you know?

From the Google.....most conventional fuel systems with a regulator, run at around 3 bar or 43.5 psi base pressure, while most returnless systems run at around 4 bar or 58 psi. Not sure if journey is return set up, number of lines from rear sending unit will tell you that. When car is running , the actual guage number is probably what it needs to normally be, so that's your bench mark. It's the potential drop you measure when the delayed slow start is occuring, that will be interesting. Regulator is there so there should always be a negligible difference. My understanding anyway. E85 fuel is one thing that can probably mess up a regular gasoline run fuel pump set up. Cause premature failure. They have special material used for all O ring seals on the vehicle. Maybe viton or something similar. Running a vehicle out of gas often can also shorten fuel pump life. Since gasoline is what lubricates and cools the in tank pump. I wonder if dealer can monitor what pressure regulator is doing when car is running, Using their special two way scanners. Question for licensed tec currently working in the trade...which I am not.

Chapter 17 in the content for the 2009 seems completely erroneous. The images do not match with the text. This means there's no information here about the drivetrain, so replacing the AWD 3.5L drive shaft to the rear of the vehicle is not described. There is no way to discover what the torque settings are for the 3 different locations of bolts; at the engine, for the hanger in the middle(which is the spot with the failure), and at the rear differential. Surely I'm not the 1st person to need to complete this repair. Does anybody know what the proper torque settings are for this part? I was thankfully able to source a great used one from a junkyard for about a tenth of the cost of a new unit!

i love those things, i got one in my '17 2500 prolly put one in my boys '15 charger soon too, but the journey, it just doesnt need it

What should the fuel pressure reading be for the 2018 Dodge Journey 2.4/?

DITTO ! But let us all keep in our hearts and minds for those affected in the tragedy in New Orleans this EARLY morning

And a happy new year! Can’t wait for this one. Gonna be amazing!

Moved to the correct section.

There are so many things that can cause extended cranking on a warm (not hot start) start. They need at the 20 min slow start point to figure out if it fuel or spark related (compression and timing obviously ok). You have played along and paid for possible unnecessary services ( like 5rebel is saying, platinum plugs good for 100k) ...helping them out. Its only matter of time before it turns to a full no start condition. If free towing is included in warranty period it can be a useful tool for pressuring dealerships at the expiring point of warranties. Used it on wife's Hyundai about 10 yrs ago. They were resetting an intermittent sticky electronic throttle body ETB like your 2.4 engine has by unhooking battery for 5 mins. Car then started ok for few weeks but warranty was in last month's. A very long distance expensive flat bed tow ( free to me) motivated them to replace the $1,000 etb. In tank electric fuel pumps on most cars rarely fail now. They did first 5 yrs they came out. I would even put your ETB as a higher probability than the fuel pump. By 100k most people with a 2.4 engine have changed it, especially if a city mile car. Yeah happy new year.

I agree with member john/Horace, but with a couple additional "observations" of the OP'a info given. A 6 year old car with that low of mileage? what is the typical driving use{short run city driving at lower speeds}? IF SO I would suspect "dirty injector{s}" or carbon build up / fuel soak on the intake valves where fuel is sprayed. Try running a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank on you next fill up. As was stated they cleaned the TB and plugs; that year should have the much longer lasting platinum plugs as original equipment, so I question the need to have replaced them. And YES the crank sensor is a known WEAK LINK with the 2.4 motor AND will cause problems WITHOUT throwing a CEL or CODE until near a "full failure" condition,like crank no start or "stalling out" while running. Aggravating for you, YES good luck and keep us informed on how things "work out" for you!

Thank you John/Horace for your response. The mileage is 48,000. Since the dealer was introducing "his gas" at he fuel rail and stating the problem went away, I mentioned that the problem would probably be from that point back to the tank. The dealer then suggested replacing the fuel pump ($1700.00), What if it checked ok? Received a message from FCA that they have closed the case. The car has one year remaining on the extended warrantee, which covers the fuel pump. So the dealer is afraid to replace a good fuel pump that will not fall under the warrantee. I didn't mention that if i drive the car and the engine has reached temp, then shut it off for about 5 minutes, no problem. I'm going to purchase a fuel pressure gauge and follow your procedure. I'll let you know the outcome. Happy New Year.

My Experience Waiting on my second android head unit to arrive after the holidays to compare, will update post then. Initial experience from eBay unit I purchased after coming across @RealFloopyGuy's review. Other Reviews

Head Unit Options OEM Head Units Infotainment carries a complete kit for swapping different versions of your OEM head unit. If you prefer sourcing components yourself you will need a new bezel, A/C control panel (also referred to as a lower stack), A/C and Heater module*, and receiver when swapping from 4.3 to 8.4 uConnect models. Head Unit Types RE2: Non-navigation 8.4” units. Does not require a GPS signal. RB5: Navigation equipped 8.4” units. Requires a GPS signal to use navigation. If your vehicle is equipped with Sirius satellite radio this should be plug and play. Parts I did my best to compile part numbers for relevant components. Please check that these parts are compatible with your vehicle before purchase. RB5 units should be interchangeable so long as it’s not from a Dodge Dart. Part numbers need verification but generally appear as “multimedia" when searching Mopar. Be mindful that there are navigation and non-navigation units. Sellers often claim the unit you’re purchasing has navigation but there is no reliable way to tell even with part numbers. You will also need additional hardware if swapping to a unit with Sirius / GPS from one without. Part Part Number Notes A/C and Heater Module 68263758AB * In case you cannot flash your existing module to work with the AUTO feature. A/C Climate Controls w/o AUTO 1RK581X9AD Center Stack Lower A/C Climate Control w/ AUTO 6MP801X9AA Center Stack Lower 8.4 Screen 05064993AG, 05064993AI Center Stack Upper 4.3 Screen P05064976AH Center Stack Upper RB5 Receivers 68209666AE, 68209666AG, 68209666AD, 5091920AB, 68209666AF, 68209666AA, 68209666AE RE2 Receivers 5091134ZK, 5091134ZI, 5091134ZH, 5091134ZJ Antenna Assembly 05091031AA Cabin Air Temp Sensor 55111178AC Sunload Sensor 68230114AB, 68230114AA, 55111902AB, 55111902AA, 55111275AA Ambient Temperature Sensor 5149264AB, 56028364AA, 5149182AB Intake Manifold Temperature Sensor Humidity Sensor 55111389AF, 55111389AE, 55111389AD, 68440808AA Rain Sensor 68587061AA 68587061AA Dodge Journey LDWS Rain Sensor Solar Windshield 4.3 Bezel 1RE271XPAE, 1RE271XPAB, 1RE271XPAC, 1UR34JXPAA 8.4 Bezel 1QC311XPAD, 1QC311XPAB, 1QC311XPAC, 1UR33JXPAA Known Issues 22 Degree Bug & Automatic Climate Control: Fixed by using the OBD Genie C-ACC Programmer or AlfaOBD and installing a climate control module with AUTO button. See Sgt. Beer Belly’s AlfaOBD thread for information on what to change where. Missing Rear Climate Controls See the Installing 8.4 uConnect (actually doing it) thread for details I may have missed. OEM Injectors Typically called Retrofit Boxes or Screen Integration. They serve to add complete Android Auto and Carplay experiences to existing OEM equipment and/or provide wireless connectivity to your system. Another option is the Lockpick which allows you to run video while in motion. Mirroring is available by purchasing an additional module. You will need an 8.4” screen to take advantage of these options. JoyeAuto https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801435040338.html Azton https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807904142761.html Sinairyu https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807735051445.html NAViKS Lockpick Lockpick & Mirror Interface Unbranded https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808018954513.html Aftermarket Head Units If you search for Android head units in general you will find several listings that provide the fascia, CAN bus decoder, head unit, and necessary cables. Information below is for your reference so you know what you’re buying, or if you’re trying to hunt down a better deal by purchasing individual parts. Units do not always come with the Android version displayed in images or the proper screen resolution. Closely inspect details in the listing description as many sellers use the same stock photos and verify when you receive your unit. They can be purchased directly from Seicane, Alibaba, or Aliexpress. Some units are available from North American retailers such as Amazon and eBay. Products originate from the same place and are typically white-labeled and marked up. Some sellers simply have distribution warehouses located in North America for quicker delivery but you can purchase the same item at a steep discount from their overseas stores. You may benefit from swapping to a climate control unit with the AUTO button and programming your vehicle if you don’t already have it. Most of these CAN bus decoders and A/C software interfaces assume you have the AUTO function. Try purchasing from a “branded” supplier for easier access to updates. CAN bus Decoders There are two kinds of universal CAN bus decoders. You may have difficulty finding them by part number. Search for “dodge journey CAN bus” or “Android CAN bus” and you should find both. Both are typically capable of selecting between multiple CAN bus protocols. Below are part numbers and markings of CAN bus decoders I’ve seen for the Journey. RZ-JP06: Typically silver. Both connectors attach to the rear. DWS-2022-04-12: Black. Has one connector attached to the side and one on the rear. CAN bus Protocols for Dodge Journey The protocols compatible with the Dodge Journey on these head units are: Raise, OuDi, Dogen, Union, and BSJ. Raise is typically recommended for all models, but you may have better luck with OuDi prior to updating your decoder software. Reach out to your seller if features are missing or not working. Head Units Most head unit hardware and software is made by FYT or MTCD. Head units are referred to by the processor or in some cases manufacturer for those that have custom software for their units, like Mekede / DUDUAUTO. Almost all head units you purchase, branded or unbranded, run the exact same software as all the others. Focus on the specifications of the device you want. Popular resellers are Atoto, Joying, Mekede, and Navifly. 4-6GB of RAM is the minimum if you're going to be doing more than running Android Auto or CarPlay. If you're getting a unit with a higher resolution be sure it has a UIS7862, UIS7682s, or UIS7870. CPU Architecture (Compare CPUs at GadgetVersus.) CPU Description UIS7870 64bit 8-core (4x ARM Cortex-A55 @ 2.1 GHz, 3x ARM Cortex-A76 @ 2.3 GHz, 1x ARM Cortex-A76 @ 2.7 GHz, ) UIS7862s 64bit 8-core (2x ARM Cortex-A75 @ 1.8 GHz, 6x ARM Cortex-A55 @ 1.8 GHz) UIS7862 64bit 8-core (2x ARM Cortex-A75 @ 1.8 GHz, 6x ARM Cortex-A55 @ 1.8 GHz) UIS8581a 64bit 8-core (4x ARM Cortex-A55 @ 1.6 GHz, 4x ARM Cortex-A55 @ 1.2 GHz) Bezels & Fascia Search for Fiat Freemont or Dodge Journey fascia or frame and you will find one that fits. There are also fascia for the 2009-2012 Journey’s with the raised stereo on the dash. Here’s a kit from SKYFAME that includes a compatible CAN bus and cables. Pair this with a 9" or 9.5" universal head unit.

Trust me buy a brass bleeder screw you'll thank me later.

I managed to get the steering wheel controls working after going back and forth with the seller for a while. The only outstanding issue I have with my unit is Metric vs. Imperial units on the main display. I was able to change it once but then it reverted to metric—no update on a fix for that issue yet. Other than that, my unit from the eBay seller had a misreported Android version, different screen resolution, and less cores than advertised. I'm not unhappy with it. This is apparently pretty common for these things and it's snappier than uConnect at any rate. I did some digging over at the XDA forum about these Android head units and they have some good info there. I ended up purchasing another unit and will make my own post sharing what I've found. 😄

Is the big tee fitting under hood that sends the glycol to the rear core getting quite hot, big hose probably 2" diameter. Tricky to bleed the air out of a two heater core system. Try another air bleed from the plastic bleeder screw on the thermostat housing under hood. Don't over tighten, plastic is fragile and can be damaged.