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this has been discussed here quite frequently, 99 % your problem for the lights and wiper are due to breaking wires or shorted wires Thur the upper left rubber grommet located in the lift gate, check the forum or you can also Google on you tube to see this problem

Good afternoon everyone, I would like to know if someone can help me or if the same thing that is happening to me now with my Journey has happened to them. The 2 interior lights that are on the inside of the rear gate do not turn on and the lamps work, there is no voltage reaching the lamp holders, the same thing happens with the glove box lamp, I tested it outside and it works well, there is no voltage reaching the lamp holder either. And the rear window wiper stops in the place where it is and does not return to the horizontal position so as not to the rear vision. Then I started to check the fuses in the passenger compartment fuse box, which is located behind the glove box. I took them out one by one, even checking them with the tester and they were all in good condition, none were burned or cut, all in excellent working condition. I started the Dodge Journey to go do some shopping. When I got back I started checking the large main fuse box that is located inside the engine compartment. I also took one out, checked it, and if it was okay, I put it back in its corresponding place. This happened until I checked all the fuses and they all worked correctly. To my surprise, when I pressed the start button, the starter motor started to turn continuously without starting the vehicle's engine. To get the starter motor to stop turning, I had to press the start button a second time. Has anyone else had the same problem happen to them and if so, what was the problem and how do I fix it? Thank you

Expensive enough for awhile, glad it has worked out for you. Yes, there is a LOT of labor involved to pull the trans. on these cars. BUT same or more work for many other brands of cars these days.

Final bill was $1295.52 they had to replace an exhaust gasket for one of the crossover pipes. All in all it wasn’t quite as expensive as I expected and my car sounds better than the day I bought it so I’m pleased. Hopefully no more major repairs are in my future it did take them 2 extra hours on top of book time due to some rusted exhaust bolts.

They've got an infographic comparing the different DUDU units. Note that if you get / want the 360 camera you need to buy from a supplier that has the 360 chip as an accessory option in their shop and add it to your cart when purchasing. Made the mistake of not doing that and don't have 360 on my unit because of it. You could add it later if you can get one of them to send it to you but it would require soldering. That's the route I'm trying to go now. Sometimes you luck out and the wiring you need exists in the tailgate and rear trim. You probably need to buy the harness you're missing, but it doesn't matter if you plan to replace with an aftermarket one.

Thanks for the answer! Spent all day looking at the dudu unit and i wish i knew about it sooner, bit it is considerably more than what i was planning on spending, do you have any experience/information about the dudu6? i want the 8gb version because the 360 is a nice upgrade, and i've been struggling trying to find out how to install the OEM backup camera on my journey (seems like the wiring is missing for everyone).

An update for anyone who’s interested, mechanic called me today to let me know it is finished. I will update with the final bill tomorrow when I pick it up as I’m about to head into work. I expect somewhere in the $1200 range as they did have to replace a gasket and they also went ahead with my request to replace the crank position sensor.

Currently I'm using the 512GB DUDU7 unit. It's expensive. It doesn't have everything in one place as it's going through active updates, but the interface is nice and it works. You'll want the 9.5" if you go with it. If you want a branded supplier for the generic software version of these head units try the Navifly 7862S. Before you buy anything else check the connections on the back of the head unit and your fuses. Also try resetting the canbus settings and setting it up again using RAISE > Dodge Journey settings.

Great post! i’ve recently got an android head unit from ebay, but i’m having a lot of problems with it. I managed to make the climate controls kinda work but all of a sudden i have no audio at all, can’t figure out why (it worked before). does anyone have recommendations for a better head unit? (i’m assuming the one i got isn’t faulty or has crappy software) thanks 2017 Dodge journey crossroad with 8.4 Uconnect

Well, I took it for a short drive this morning to put gas in it. Outside air temp was 36* and while it wasn't a long drive, I was satisfied with the temp rise and was getting adequate heat from the vents by the time I got back home. Coolant was up above 160. I think our issue is her short drive and just how cold it had been, but I will keep an eye on it and report back if anything changes.

have your journey scanned for codes to see what is happening, also you can re-calibrate your compass the direction are in your book that might help good luck and please report back on what you find out to be your problem

While driving the speedomoter screen jumps to message off route rerouting even though not using GPS. Our navigation is expired/outdated have not used in years. Not sure why it is kicking.

probably got cleared out by work he had already done or his probable basic scanner and will need a high end scanner to get at codes under "history" or "permanent" codes.

The check engine light is on and there are no codes? You have connected a scan tool to it?

Battery? Oil level? Rodents?

What engine size? 2.4 or 3.6

Such a newer vehicle, what kind of maint. had been done PRIOR to this event? Had you just gotten fuel and possibly water? No crank and red dot flashing means anti theft system has activated. Try disconnecting power and ground from the TIPM and neg jumper post for 10 to 15 minutes, reresecure and give it a try. you did not say, but is there sufficient oil and coolant levels?

Have a 2019 journey that the motor lost power while driving. Since then it won’t start at all. Replaced both cam sensor, crank sensor, had starter checked, battery checked. the check engine light is on, etc light is on and the little red light flashes. No engine codes what so ever but does have passenger airbag code. Any ideas? Been checking wire connections and relays. Starter won’t engage now. Running out of ideas and I still owe 2 years of payments on this car

Could also buy a battery tender or trickle charger. Needs house power so extension cord, uses very little electricity. It stays always hooked up to battery when car is sitting. Will keep battery full without damaging it. Mechanics sometimes tie wrap them in place under hood with plug poking through grill for extension cord. Not that expensive to buy. Rather than squeeze clamps, the permanent mount style use bolt on spade connectors that mount right on power connections. If you go that route you could keep your cell hands free set up working, HFM fuse still in place.

Buy a cheap assortment back of plastic Xmas tree style clips from auto parts store. They often crumble when reused. Could go auto wrecker route for bumper cover replacement and crash pad foam. . Use your paint code from drivers door to see if you can get a match. If you splice the rad cradle, you can pop rivet a few home made brackets in place. Better than sheet metal screws, don't come loose and cause rattles.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your cancer. My brother is on third go round with his, about 10 years now since the start. They are getting better with this disease, fingers crossed for you. You boosted your own Journey battery, very impressive . You seem to have done your reading on Journeys as well, smart. Newer cars with all their options tend to go through batteries. Short driving trips and sitting for weeks also tends to under charge batteries. A newer style of battery called AGM is being used on lots of cars now. It helps cover these issues. They are about $100 extra, worth considering. Same size foot print, compatible with current charging system. Last multiple times longer sitting than standard lead acid battery. In the short term there are things to do. If you can live without your cell phone working with radio. The HFM fuse should be pulled out from passenger front kick plate fuel panel. Most common source of parasitic battery drain. Very expensive to have repaired, pretty much dealer fix. Keep a charged booster pack like you have in your glove compartment. Or get an AAA membership. A bad washer pump shouldn't kill battery, but will need to be fixed. Make sure glovebox light is not staying on. Don't leave anything charging in charging outlets.

First thing to check with a battery drain. (parasitic draw). Remove the fuse marked HFM. Located in the Interior fuse panel located up and underneath the glove box. Also check for the glove box light staying on. Unplug it.

wife just had this happen to her, I'm going to be replacing the radiator and the radiator support soon, I was able to straighten out the condenser and the transmission cooler enough to avoid replacement, Any other hints are welcome, Thank you for this!!

So I have a 2017 DJ.....it has less than 40,000miles. I don't drive much as you can see. I'm battling Cancer and there days... honestly weeks that my car will sit and not be cranked. I'm in Georgia so we get cold winters but nothing like up north or Canada. I use a power wheelchair and had a winch switch connected to my battery to pull my power chair on my wheel chair carrier. My car started going dead in late October of 2022. I will mention that my husband before he died.....in 2019 he used the UConnect and it wouldn't shut off. It stayed on until it drained the battery. The dealership then said no issues. Fast forward to 2023, my car went dead again. Tested the battery needed a new one. Went to the dealership because no one in my town wanted to install. Everything was fine after battery installed. Jump to 2024, driving home my panel lights flicked. Immediately I thought Alternator going bad. Had it checked...no battery and alternator were fine. Sent my car to the dealership because it kept going dead. They had my car for a week. No issues. Car sits for as I said days even weeks no movement. Thought okay it's going dead because I hadn't started it. End of 2024 sent my car to another mechanic. He had my car for a week. Once it was charged no problems. He said that my winch was the issue. February of 2025, for week car was dead...I left the radio on. Got jumped. Last week went go to my chemotherapy card dead. I bought myself a pretty decent jump start... Tuesday jumped my car myself...started it today...fine? Could someone tell me what they is wrong? Noticed today that my windshield pump isn't working...that fuse can cause a draw but I really feel it's my HFM and UCONNECT that is the issue. Thoughts and opinions are welcomed. I got Cancer.....life is hard enough. I need my car! 🙏🏾❤️

Hopefully not a twin turbo turbo V6 from 2022-23 Toyotas. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjAvfuC-eKLAxW5v4kEHZhzBEsQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thedrive.com%2Fnews%2Ftoyota-will-replace-over-100000-v6-engines-in-recalled-tundras-lexus-suvs&usg=AOvVaw2Arqaz5rnjJ57LmGxTA151&opi=89978449