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What year Journey? What engine?

I found tonight that while the tail light is on (no key) the rear wiper motor turns. ??? Huh!

i didn't spend much time on it btoday. i tested the three prong cps plug and im getting 5 on both sides and the ground wire is the middle. no salt here in Missouri.unless it snows lol..i bought a new battery sensor and cleared all the codes. i just need to get it running so i can do a relearn on the cam and crank sensorsi added a ground wire from the passenger side all the way to the battery. checked all the grounds and i even cut a piece of aluminum for the grounds on driver side like the pictures showed. still same thing. . so i need to unplug the pcm and check pins 86 ? them plugs are pretty tough to get off there aren't they?

Or alternator

Ok,I can't wait to try this!

Sure!

I am having the same issue, so I called a few friends and one suggested putting the fob in the cup holder, that is now the only way my car will start. Worth a shot for anyone having this issue

Start with your battery health..... a dying battery can cause many strange symptoms

I'm starting to get a bug now and then in the electrical system. Last week coming home I suddenly got a ding and a battery light, I looked at my voltage monitor and it read 11.9 V a little further it read 14.1 V the varied between 13.6 V and 14.3 V. Today it's been doing fine. Earlier this evening while changing hwys the car suddenly went neutral on me, engine reved, low fuel light came on, and I was reminded that I need an oil change again, which it only dies once I start it first thing. Oil is getting changed Monday. Also left tail light has been burning dim for some time but glares at you from time to time like it's possessed. Engine off key in acc. the tail light will blink randomly, (the rear wiper motor is bad), and I noticed when it blinks the rear wiper will move a bit. Does anyone have any suggestions. Other than that it runs great and nothing's wrong with the radio. P.S. The factor horn is also disconnected as it blows when it feels like it whether I'm driving it or in bed sleeping.

He said he already replaced the battery sensor. Maybe he didn’t clear codes since. He is not in salt belt I think, but cleaning up grounds is never a bad thing. From wiring diagram it’s a three prong plug on crank sensor. Two out of three wires you can test at the plug, ground and 5 volt reference supply are testable, the ckp return signal, a brown light blue wire to #86 pin can’t really test. Could also test complete ground path from crank sensor ground pin right back to #88 pin on pcm module for continuity and resistance.

For cheap and easy: I would replace the battery sensor. Check and clean all battery cable connections and grounds. Read these threads on doing that. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/ https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18374-electrical-system-fyi-ground-system/

Crankshaft position sensor wiring diagram.

Crankshaft position sensor code.

Here is the codes break down. 2016 DJ service CD. B2193-00 - Battery sensor internal short. Replace battery sensor. P0113 - Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit voltage high. -IAT SENSOR -WIRE ISSUE P0335 Crankshaft position sensor circuit See following post. U0100-00. BCM lost communication with PCM See following post B1C19 - passenger headrest control circuit high B1C13 - Driver headrest control circuit high B1408-13. rear left speaker circuit open B210a-16, Telematics gateway (TGW) system voltage circuit voltage below threshold. B210d-16 B210D - ORC restraint controller Battery Voltage Low.

There are two wires in the crank plug harness that feed the sensor, I assume . If it's three then one is a ground wire, which we will test later. One is the 12 ish volts from battery coming in, the other is the pulsed 5 volt signal going back to the ecm (pin 86 on ecm main connector plug). Both needed to run engine. Unplug cps plug first, then get ignition to run position, make sure one wire on cps plug is getting very close to battery voltage. Report back what voltage is. Turn off ignition, put cps plug back on the sensor again. Can't remove ecm plug to trouble shoot, ignition won't come on with plug removed. Need to do what is called a back probe. Very thin piece of wire or paper clip is used to see what voltage is. Some mechanics poke sharp meter probe through wire insulation, then dab with atv silicone afterwards. To back probe slide paper clip into cps harness plug beside each wire and get a voltage measurement with ignition on. Do same thing at 88 pin ecm/pcm end for the 5 volt output going to pin #86. If voltage is dropping through harness or bad cps plug you will see it turn up as a low or no voltage measurement at pin #86. Not hard to lose a 5 volt signal via pinched wire or dirty connection etc. Even bent pin.

also im not to sure what you want me to do with pin 86 and that chart. if i understood that maybe i could find the problem

i want to thank everyone for their advise and when i get home this evening i will do a scan and see if i can figure out how to put a video of it on here. my scanner can do the relearn and also can program pcm etc.. i will try to put a video of what the scanner is telling me but i cant do a relearn on anything until i get it started. i do thank each and everyone of you guys for helping me. yes both motors were running when i did the swap. there is something i am missing and i think it goes back to the cps. motors didn't sit probably a couple months. starting it did have a slow rank but i fixed that. its still throwing the battery sensor code even after i cleared it. i like dodge products espeally the Cummins . i have 3 of them. maybe i will put a cummings motor in this journey and that will fix it