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I agree with member 2late4u. But being 12 years old now, I would also suspect a poor ground connection in the wiring for those panels. Just where is a case for a good wiring schematic and patience in locating it in the vehicle. Grounds are just as important as power.

I would first have the alt checked to make sure it is putting out the correct current while running and also have the battery load checked as well both checks can be done at most auto parts stores for free,the electronics can act crazy without the proper current supplied to them.....that said there is a sensor that determines whether its day or night that controls the brightness of the lights inside the journey ,does your change brightness after it gets dark outside? as far as the horn beeping the three times and unlocks your journey after you have loved it and walked away is a common occurrence that I have as well ,I believe the journey notices that I have manually locked it before shutting the doors but hen thinks the keys are still inside the vehicle and will not let me walk away without beeping,kind of irritating but no big deal,,also first time iv read where the LCD displays degrade over time ????

I've a 2013 Journey Crew with 8x4 Uconnect, backup camera, no navigation, etc... I've noticed that the brightness of the 8x4 panel and the EVIC dash display becoming dimmer over time. All settings are correct to shift brightness between head lights on and off (10 day, 5 night). During the day with sun shining in, the backup camera image is hard to see. I asked my local dealer service writer if there is a master brightness control and he was unaware of any adjustment that can be made to punch up the brightness beyond the "10" setting with auto on or "daylight" selected. The 8x4 panel and the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)Display / Odometer Display brightness tracks the change in the dimmer control, and both appear to be the same brightness level. I understand that LCD displays degrade over time but for both the EVIC display and the 8x4 to degrade the same amount seems unlikely. I suppose that I can check the terminals on the dimmer switch to see if a variable voltage output pin reaches 12V indicating max brightness limit. (Unless it is a CAN BUS control_) Other odd electrical problems that may be related: Open the driver's door, press the lock button, and step out and close the door, at odd times the doors will unlock as I walk away from the car (1 out of 20 times). Sometimes, walking away from the locked car, the horn will beep three times, and the doors are unlocked requiring me to use the key fob to relock the car. One day Sirus XM decided to change channels at random. This was annoying for 15 minutes but then it settled down and stayed on the selected channel.

Now middle of April here in NW PA. Maybe divine intervention but no more cold air on passenger side. Looked through old records and is brought this problem to a local dealer when it was still under warranty 6 years ago. I’d thought it was the blend air doors and thru said no, and couldn’t find anything. That said, it’s still heat every day here so I’m waiting for a week or so of using the A/C to see if there’s anything wrong there. Thanks to all for your comments. This is a great place to learn.

I would get it scanned by someone with a bi-directional scanner. That can communicate with all the modules on the journey. To prevent further collateral damage.

I have a 2010 Dodge Journey SE 2.4L and I had a wiring issue to the alternator. Now I can't tell if I fixed it because my immobilizer forgot my key. Key fob still works the door locks but immobilizer is engaged and don't let the car start. Does anyone know how to bypass this stupid thing?

All the wires are good so I tweaked the connectors to the ECM. Now the ignition won't recognize my key fob although it works fine on the locks.

2016 2.4 L. Here is a post, I made with Dodge service information. Read the entire thread. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18296-charging-system-101-with-diagrams/

New alternator, after a month it quit charging. I took the alt out and had it tested, it tested good. I have a Dodge Journey SE 2.4 L. Does anyone have the schematics for the charging system so I trace this POS out and find the problem?

Thank you.

Same tranny from 2009-2020:apparently. Sometimes called 40 TE as well. https://transpartsnow.com/rebuilt-solenoid-pack-a604-40te/

I gave up on repairing it myself. FWD is not a problem but AWD is a higher school of driving. Without a lift, it is impossible or very hard to handle it in the garage from the floor. Maybe there is a way to seal the differential without removing the automatic transmission?

Read my thread on the battery: https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/

Thank You.

It sounds like either your alternator is not putting out enough power (ecm controls how much alternator charges) or possibly a problem with bad grounds or even main power connections at battery/fuse box. Lots of people on the site have replaced some of the undersized wiring with better gauge wire and cleaned up some of the main grounds (down to clean shiny metal) and then a thin film of dielectric grease. You need a tec with a multi meter and electrical knowledge to check over the main wire harness. Electrical specialist is better option than regular auto mechanic, if you can find one. Even auto starter, sound system installer are reasonable option. Older cars in the rust belt can often have issues with bad electrical connections. Not a simple diy without having some electrical back ground unfortunetly. You have already checked more than a few things yourself like HFM fuse. Bad grounds or corroded connections can create a lot of weird electrical faults with random patterns. May be as simple as post connections on battery. The dash clicking noise may be the blender door venting the cabin air to prevent moisture build up. Most cars do this, it’s around a 2 min cycle of dash louvers. If you-are having condensation issues, then it’s broken like 5rebel9 mentioned and needs changing. But not parasitic load.

Clicking noise as you described when it happens is most likely a broken RECIRCULATION /door actuator. NOT LIKELY the cause of parasitic drain. The actuator is one of the easiest to change and many youtube videos about doing it. How old is the battery, and when were the cable ends last cleaned for both positive and negative at battery and the outside fuse panel and grounds at the strut tower????? A good FULL electrical system code scan would be a grat thing to have done to help find the source of your cars problems.

My 2013 journey has been having trouble starting for well over a month. I use a portable booster to start it but sometimes even fully charged that won’t get it to turn over but the next day it will. I disconnected the fuse for the HFM and a few others I don’t need. When it does start, the moment I pull away, the parking brake, ABS and stability control lights come on and it beeps once, at the same time the radio screen goes black then the lights go off and the radio screen comes back on. Sometimes it does this a few times while I’m driving. Today I started it and noticed the light inside the glove box getting brighter and dimmer very noticeably. It wasn’t consistently the same for more than 2 seconds and seemed to be in sync with a whirring noise I heard from somewhere under the hood. After I boosted it today the car switched from km to miles and °C to °F. For 3 years something to do with the heater behind the glove box makes a periodic “click click click click click click” noise when the car is on and once a few moments after it has been turned off. Apparently a gear isn’t catching. Could this be the cause of the parasitic drain? The battery and engine light never come on. Thank you for your time!

Haynes has a printed book available 2011-2020 DJ. $49.99 USD. 2.4 and 3.6 engines. Excellent pictures and Dodge factory diagrams. Online digital manual $39.99. You choose the engine type upon purchase. Wiring diagrams as well. https://us.haynes.com/collections/vehicle-results?filter.p.m.filter.vehicle_model_types=3.6+V6+Gas+(ERB)&filter.p.m.filter.vehicle_make=Dodge&filter.p.m.filter.vehicle_model=Journey&filter.p.m.filter.searchable_years=2016&filter.p.m.filter.vehicle_type=car&filter.p.m.filter.vehicle_type=passenger

Yes, I read that might be the issue... thank you ☺️

According to wiki. The 40TES is used with the 2.4 L GEMA I4 engine

IF you are getting cold air from one vent but not the others I would say it is a blend door problem

Epilogue : the (small) wire between the starter and the relay box, actually , the connector not playing his role correctly , i had to add another screwed, solid wire to replace the existing one to resolve definetly this stupid (bad conception) issue. situation is back to normal. many thanks to Dean (by the Way) .

I've been told my 2910 Dodge Journey SE 2.4 L has a 62TE transmission but I can't find 1 video that has a tranny that looks like mine or even has a dip stick. I've also read it's a 4 speed but videos are all 6 speed. I'm confused. My VIN is: 3D4PG4FB3AT198753. If anyone can tell me WTH is it? I want to find a video that shows the replacement of the shifter solenoid pack. I'm a retired technician of 25+ years and this fas me stumped.

Y1234 refrigerant system...Quite possible a small leak in the A/C system or slight possibility that pass blend door actuator is not working. It works the same for A/C and normal HEAT/ cool. IF those function well for pass heat change, then I'd say A/C system leak, and probably a small leajk at that due to drivers side seeming good, indicating low refrigerant.

Also don't rule out the possibility of a bad roller tip on the rocker arm. My shop owner friend just had a 3.6 come in with randomly appearing same codes, yet all checked out until he pulled that sides valve cover and camshaft and removed the offending cylinders rocker arms and found one that was missing a couple of its needle bearings causing lack of valve opening/closing. They installed new rocker arms as thankfully the camshaft lobes had not been damaged, and all was good again. PROPER tools for the job are a MUST.