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To all of you! Thanks for keeping this forum alive!

Agreed, you can "reset" the oil change reminder at any time if not already showing. I personally go 5k miles between changes and use the trip "B" reading in the trip info page for my "reminder" on all 3 of our Journeys. Just a note to you, miles driven between changes does NOT absolve you of opening the hood and checking oil level with the dipstick!

I managed to get the steering wheel controls working after going back and forth with the seller for a while. The only outstanding issue I have with my unit is Metric vs. Imperial units on the main display. I was able to change it once but then it reverted to metric—no update on a fix for that issue yet. Other than that, my unit from the eBay seller had a misreported Android version, different screen resolution, and less cores than advertised. I'm not unhappy with it. This is apparently pretty common for these things and it's snappier than uConnect at any rate. I did some digging over at the XDA forum about these Android head units and they have some good info there. I ended up purchasing another unit and will make my own post sharing what I've found. 😄

Thank you guys yes I religiously follow the 5k interval ever since I bought the car used. I bought it with a little over 60k miles and I’m at 75k and some change currently. I do check the oil once a week as I’m very paranoid when it comes to the oil level. I will be sure to do the reset procedure before I head back to work this upcoming week as I drive about 45 minutes one way to work.

JD used to be a fav. beverage, but Santa bringing me some nice firewood {instead of coal} would go very nicely at my home! It's been a cold ,wet and snowy season here since Halloween! MERRY CHRISTMAS to all!

Check the battery sensor on the negative post of the battery and fuse F179 {probably in the inside the car fuse panel}. most likely it is a badly corroded connection as the 2 wire plug on the battery sensor is quite small gage wiring. You may need to replace the whole sensor unit and the harness plug end. Good luck and let us know what you find!

Hi! I recently purchased a used 2017 AWD journey and so far it’s been great! A few questions will be coming in the following days and weeks as I discover how all the buttons and dials work. I look forward to connecting with you all! Martin Moon

https://www.reddit.com/r/interestingasfuck/s/MDTUujxKJO Comments a little nasty…but explain the details.

The oil is held in by the outer lip seal that you have. The rubber/plastic bushing I think is more of a spacer for the cv shaft end location. A transmission shop might be able to locate something like that. Or try a different dealer, no one is spending $2k instead of $20 on a bushing. Maybe lazy parts guy. Wrecking yard would be another option. They often have cars have pulled apart so access might not be bad. Could also try just changing out the lip seal you have, leave spacer bushing as is. See if it actually keeps leaking. Make sure to clean up the surface of cv shaft where inner seal runs really well with scotchbrite etc. Then put a thin film of tranny fluid on that end of shaft area before sliding shaft back in place. Rubber tears easily.

You will be OKAY. There is a filter screen on the pickup and that small part should NOT block or get sucked into the fuel pump in any way. BE MORE CAREFUL next time......LOL

About $190. They fail in 2 ways. Corrupt firmware and electrical board failure. Since the firmware update seems a permanent fix we've stepped up our buying and selling. Salvage yards just pull and sell for the most part. We don't even test modules from yards or core returns. They go right to the bench for flashing. Only after successful flashing does testing begin. Testing is pairing phone, pandora music stream, Voice command FM channel change, send text message. Last test is Thermal. That involves point thermal camera at the module 30 minutes after vehicle is off to verify module is powered down. Since 95% are firmware that's how we can offer core refunds.

Might be time to have the dealership OR a qualified garage check it out YES they charge a dig charge but I have always found they apply such charge towards the repair, sounds like you have covered most of what you can,time to let the pros check it out.please report back on what you find out to be your problem for others to learn from

I went back to retrace my steps and found the reason for the brake light on. The E-brake was applied which I thought it was released. After I fully released the brake, the light went off of course. Thanks guys for replying, I really appreciate it!!!

Fuses are my next step. I’ll try resetting first then new fuses. Keep everyone updated. Thank you for your knowledge.

DITTO ! But let us all keep in our hearts and minds for those affected in the tragedy in New Orleans this EARLY morning

I agree with member john/Horace, but with a couple additional "observations" of the OP'a info given. A 6 year old car with that low of mileage? what is the typical driving use{short run city driving at lower speeds}? IF SO I would suspect "dirty injector{s}" or carbon build up / fuel soak on the intake valves where fuel is sprayed. Try running a can of Seafoam in the fuel tank on you next fill up. As was stated they cleaned the TB and plugs; that year should have the much longer lasting platinum plugs as original equipment, so I question the need to have replaced them. And YES the crank sensor is a known WEAK LINK with the 2.4 motor AND will cause problems WITHOUT throwing a CEL or CODE until near a "full failure" condition,like crank no start or "stalling out" while running. Aggravating for you, YES good luck and keep us informed on how things "work out" for you!

Sounds frustrating, haven't heard of someone experiencing this before. How many miles on vehicle? Hard when no codes come up, if you can wait for part to actually fail you can avoid expensive guesses. It's a hot soak issue, occurs when engine is still warm to hot. Which is how fuel pumps fail sometimes (happened to a ford van I had years ago). Internal pump clearances increase when it's hot/warm and pump produces less pressure. Loosening gas cap or remove it when slow start happens ; then try starting would eliminate slim possibility of intermittent vapor lock being cause. Evap and cannister issues would most likely set a code if this was the case. Most vehicles if there is low fuel pressure would probably set a diagnostic code. Measuring actual fuel pressure when engine stone cold and then heated up might give some useful information. Need an analogue dial fuel guage with an adapter that attaches to fuel line, a dealer should have this. Surprised they haven't done it. If I was doing an educated guess I would start with a cheaper one, like the CPS. OEM part is only around $35, installs in 15mins, on the 2.4 they usually start to act up by 100k miles anyway. Crank position sensor if it's getting flaky could cause extended starts, but once again usually a code. My next guess would be the expensive fuel pump in gas tank, if it was showing around 5-10 pounds of pressure drop. Good luck, free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Wish I had a good experience. I bought an android 'upgrade' radio and just Uninstalled it. After 4 weeks of working with the seller and trying to get it to work properly, I decided to return it. They admitted that the operation system had an issue but would not exchange it. They did agreed to a full refund, which works out to be a complete waste of time for me. Oh well.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!! I don't get in here to often anymore, but glad to see a bunch of the regular still around. Enjoy whatever you celebrate, hope it's an end to a great year.

2.4 motor uses TWO thermostats the higher temp opening "stat" may be stuck closed. that COULD be why only "overheating" {is there loss of coolant?} on long drives. I suggest changing both stats if the housing{made of plastic} is NOT leaking and is a common problem for the 2.4

Yes, merry Xmas happy new year everyone. I hope Santa is good to you...no coal in stockings, maybe some Jack Daniels or other appropriate beverage. Cheers.

On the short section of shaft there's an aluminum cover so to speak. Use a small chisel or screwdriver to pry the edge up so it can slide off the shaft. Inside is a holding ring to keep the bearing in place that pops out easy with a screwdriver. This splits the shaft. A circlip holds the bearing on the shaft. Remove this and the bearing and you can hammer and chisel the bearing off. I have some pics but not many. I will try and upload some in the next few days.

Have not banned. Maybe it got tired of us. 🤷‍♂️

Forgot to respond to this post. Yes put a saddle on your Journey...and have "more happy rides on it". Hilarious. Wonder what happened to robo Johan. Did the moderator or admin nuke him? Before AI bots take over the car forum world they will have to figure out the difference between sitting in or on a vehicle, among other things. Although if it's just about activity generation of any sort; then it's mission accomplished. Maybe they can repurpose robo Johan into a better search function for the site. That would help boost traffic imo. Backing out to use the Google gets annoying.

Thank you so much for the detailed information in the link. I will fix it now.

Follow 5rebel9's directions. Read my post and whole thread below, regarding the battery and battery sensor. Everything you need to know is covered in it. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/

John/Horace you are a life saver. Thank you so much. I just disconnected the viscous coupler electrical connector and all the loud thudding went away. And my car runs smooth. Only the dash shows a text "Service AWD". Hahaa the fix was so simple. https://youtu.be/6Wpx8tjjTx0

That's like saying a new radiator should come with anti freeze. But ok, you're right

Welcome to the site. Ouch, so the bags fired too. The site link below is the biggest on line source, I don’t work for them, but have used them for over 10 years. Their pics and info are very accurate so might be able to cross reference on the site. Aftermarket part shows $422 cdn, wow, Mopar no stock like usual. I would guess the part would be on multiple FCA products. Wreckers have their own software like Hollins for matching rims etc, try LKQ , very large cross country and cross border parts network. Even decent upull yards often can cross reference stuff pretty well. Assembly does have visible parts # sticker. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,interior,air+bag+clockspring,10480

I am ending this topic with a happy note. I was able to install new oil seal and i left the inner hard rubber bushing as is. Its not leaking or anything. Its workin fine. I was able to add the gear oil in from the vent tube by preheating. This is very important else the oil is really thick and takes a long time to go in. To aid with the air bubbles to pass, i inserted a thin wire and pulled and pushed it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/yLQBoRhYsWEqRTMX8

because some thing simply should be included when i buy a new pen, i dont expect to have to ask for ink, do i?

You can remove driveshaft temporarily and still drive the vehicle. It has been done.

Lots of oem stuff still not available from dealers. This switch is used in so many FCA-Stellantis vehicles I guess they had to make them. Better the switch than the door wire harness feed.

Thanks, I'll get on this this weekend.

Plus the Journey is fading into the sunset

Thank you John for your comments. I will do that and see. I was hoping u will comment as you have done on so many threads and your comments are great!

go on lkq or your local salvage yard for a used ptu unit,if its not a replaceable seal ,then that will be your only option I would assume

Have you tried your local dodge dealership part store?

I would be looking into the replacement of the bushing it's destroyed . The seal is not going to stop the issue it's there for a reason Doesn't look like much maintenance has been performed either

More likely a bad battery or loose dirty connections at the battery,if battery is more than 3 yrs old just replace it and then have the alt checked

First read this post- https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18354-battery-saver-mode/ Start with your battery - Read this post below- https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/ After the battery post instructions and results. Then test your alternator. My post's are as simplified as it gets. Simple process of elimination.

If you have this below- EVIC screen located in the center of the instrument cluster. Use the keypad on the left side of the steering wheel. Arrow buttons and the back button. Select coolant temperature. Report back what the temperature is.

Engine size would be most helpful to post, the 2 choices in the NA market each have their own quirks. CEL on? full coolant and not boiling out????

Exactly! I’m glad as well…

by the time I got Thur reading the story, I couldn't remember your problem,sounds like you got a lot of unresolved problems...good luck

An auto recycler can tell you what will fit. I’m pretty sure it was the same all years as long as you have the 3.6 v6 engine. New parts will be wayyyy too expensive to fix the Journey with, people always go used. Just a used diff is probaby $400 not installed, the front ptu if it’s been neglected it’s may also need replacing, another $400 ish. The rear diff awd is engages by a power plug that feeds the signal right into the diff, if you unplug it it will probably stop clunking almost immediately. Any mechanic could do this 5 mins job. However long term you probably need the driveshaft that runs the awd removed as well. The rear diff needed to have oil in it to keep all the bearings lubricated. Switching car permanently to two wheel drive might even be best option. So the rear c/v half shafts would likely be removed too. Could sell off the removed parts for a few $’s. This way toasted diff can just stay where it is and do nothing with no oil in it. Mechanics and tranny shops will be interested in making $3,000 to fix the awd…and not make $300 disabling and removing it. But people have disabled/removed awd on these vehicles before. Probably with a permanent light on the dash afterwards.

Most awd vehicles can be switched to 2 wheel drive by removing the rear drive shaft, including the Journey. Dealerships will never do a procedure like this. Car needs to be put back to original condition so it can go another 100k miles ….and we can make $8600 on a repair. A transmission or truck repair place can access the severity of the leak or even switch vehicle to temporarily 2 wheel drive. As somebody already said; It may only be a side c/v axle lip seal leak, a $25 part and a few hrs of labor. The front ptu unit holds about 700ml of thick 75w90 gear oil. A few drips every few days will not drop fluid level all that much. But you can’t ignore it and let it get really low and wreck the internal bearings. A used ptu unit from an auto recycler is often the most cost effective repair if a full rebuild is needed. Because unit was run for a while without any oil left inside.

Ok... hopefully the links work .. 01 DODGE JOURNEY SE WORKSHOP MANUAL (2009-2011 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_xuA6QF1MntZly_ggIJyDv6B6jmowE60/view?usp=sharing 02 DODGE JOURNEY JC MANUAL (CHANGES APPLY FROM 2012 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zX8rfowBmx1KZpx7zNHQENgcxjFnDjuw/view?usp=sharing

Any follow up. Did you locate used ptu or keep driving as a 2 wheel drive only.

Hello does anyone know the rear drive shaft bolt torque specs? Both at the diff and coupler.