Leaderboard

Still here! Lol. Sold the journey 2 years ago but from what I remember the issue ended up being either the bluetooth fuse, or the rust protection module. 95% sure was module because I put the Bluetooth fuse back in and didn't have a battery issue for a long time.

Well, in accordance with Texas Law I had to add something Texas to my car. Anyone that's ever been to Texas will get that joke lol. Added this sign to cover the air manifold since it's nothing special to look at. BUT may even move the sign again

Lol good on us for still being here, helping out. Cheers.

Thank you Horace I successfully was able to drill some new holes and a good bit of water came out. Hoping this solution works as I finally got the carpet dried out again, like you said it would be very costly to have someone pull the fender off and reseal everything just for the drain holes to still be clogged. My drain holes along my rockers were also plugged up with foam and just gunk in general my drill was able to free up most of it and I got some water out of those holes as well.

NOS motor came today and all good. Couple things if anyone has to do this. 1. Get OEM as neither the aftermarket arm or motor fit/worked. Just my experience. 2. I’ve included a pic of the panel to show where the clips are. There are also two Torx screws at the bottom of the panel. There’s a matchbox sized insert also near the bottom center that can stay. Clips are very stiff and I’d recommend using the interior panel removal tools-great $8.00 investment.

Right up there with locking lug nuts....

I think this unit was rated at around 60 milli amp continuous draw. It was on car when she got it and appeared 8-9 yrs old. May have had an internal issue because it was over drawing power. But body was slightly better than usual for rust belt vehicles. Brake lines were rotted and I replaced with nickel copper lines. With a multi meter you can actually see the electrical energy pulse on the frame. But with so much plastic and isolated components from main subframe there are still parts not being protected. AGM battery’s would really suit this type of application…and even your killer sound system power requirements. Faster charge and slower sitting discharge etc. Anti rust sprays annually are still the best protection in rust belt areas imo. Most of them are not actual petroleum oil but environmentally friendly ingredients. Like lanolin, wool oil, refined mineral oils (like medicinal or baby oil) etc. Swelling rubber can be risk from some of the sprays.

Always wondered if those devices actually help or it is just some snake oil

Isn't that your abs pump right there in front of the strut tower.

well I did not make it to the mechanic shop. I was waiting on the new front driveshaft bolts that I had to order. earlier i mentioned i still needed to add a few ounces to ptu so I did that. and Dorman sent me a new shaft. ( now keep in mind that the vibration was lots better with the shaft out but not really completely gone) Bolts arrive, put new shaft in. much to my surprise most of the vibration is gone. like 90 percent! now how does this figure? its been a few weeks now and it has not gotten worse. I believe the PTU is the culprit . and if it stays as is, I can live with it. I want to Thank you guys for you input and great ideas along the way here. seriously can't thank you enough!! so now you ask, why did this guy put so much money and time in this thing? A friend of mine past away in 2019 and I inherited this car. He was my oldest brother. annnd Nowwww you know.....the RRRREEEESSSST.. of the story. GOOD DAY!

Lol I've modified my Journey to the point nobody would buy it and if they did want to doubt they would offer much 🤣🤣

Yeah, it's a small square box located under the hood. When buying new vehicles they offer it for like an extra 1000 or so. Corrosion protection. I would pop the hood and check to see if you have one installed. Would be located closest to the windshield. Top right or top left corner under the hood.

Mehhh! That was only like 4 summers ago 🤣🤣🤣

User is no longer active. This post is from 4 years ago.

Here is the DP filter removal chart. Continues below.

It's not possible. I have exported the car from USA to Europe, there is no Dodge dealership in my country. I checked in Mopar website with my vin but can't find the needed information.

All I could find on eBay. If you want it, you got move quickly. https://ebay.us/m/QA4Shz

8 year old thread. Good luck avoiding a similar feature. Thank the government.

good luck phil,, Total weight is going to be way over the limit

OK My 2011 had a "no dash power off" issue when we got it. I had quite the post about it and what I did to find the cause. BUT what I did learn when having the center stack out was there is a module basically right behind where the screen sits that controls HVAC functions. With the convoluted way CAN/BUS runs in these cars it is possible that that module may be bad and causing the problem, IF you have access to used parts try replacing that module, but make sure it is one for the auto temp system if that is what your DJ is equipped with. This is definitely an ODD problem, I've got 3 of these cars{had 4 but sold one off recently} and never had this type of problem. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted..... and I hope all is now OK on the "other fronts" for you.

Most likely the circuit board in the radio is going bad{cracked solder points}. For your year the radio unit is plug and play for same type replacement, should be lots of radio units{not the screen}available at wrecking yards. Not hard to take the center dash stack apart to get to the radio unit, lots of youtube videos that can help you along about this task. There is a CHANCE also that the HVAC/radio control panel may be going bad also, Good Luck and WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

I'm about to fall off of my chair here...I may have found something thanks to your thoughts., I have been driving without the driveshaft in for a few days now. and since you mentioned the viscous coupler does not turn, it only makes sense that the vibration is from the FRONT! So I decided to look into the PTU thing. when I drained it, I was surprised to find that I collected almost 31 ounces of fluid! aaaand my car was still slightly tilted back.( while underneath i noticed the ptu is seeping from the gaskets hmmmm) the drain plug I'd say had some normal sludge build up. I filled her up by way of the vent tube I used a large hypo oiling needle used on my Harley forks. (worked so good) buuut im 2 oz short..no biggie for now. I did not think it was gonna make the diff. entering the freeway....60..no vib..70 no vib im shitting...75...no vibrate!! 80....smoooth as silk. on the way back I let it get to 85-90 and it vibrated just a tad. we have found the culprit! I have only had this car since 2019 and i have no idea how in the hell that case could have been over filled. but it was and it sure seems to be the cause. I still owe it 2 ounces. maybe it will take care of the rest. either way, now I know! I think .hahahah wilI let you know after a few more test rides...fingers crossed

I'll be sure to check those out when replacing the battery cables. Thank you Dean

3.6l and yes I watched a video on the plug. I think I'll have to spray it out. The lock tab is stuck. Went for a 20mile drive and the message did not come back yet. I'll keep everyone posted in the coming week.

I just bought one of these works great (different brand)

Well in that case you may possibly havr a bad connection on the battery sensor wiring. Any resistance in the wire can give false readings your voltage is dropping

Voltage never drops. I have a cig lighter voltage display.

As the title mentioned my grandson got himself a used 2023 telluride around 36 k miles on it about 6 months ago and he has add and a mild case of asperger's syndrome is always putting things off and I did his other oil changes on his Nissan for him and to make a long story short I am making the run to the kia dealership this morning to get a couple of oil filters ( I always buy the OEM filters for whatever vehicle I am working on) and also KIA sometimes get a small oil leak from after market O rings that seem to be a bit thinner on the aftermarket rings...The local dealerships gave his mother a big speal on if he takes it anywhere else it would invalidate his warranty, but I told her they cant do that as long as you do everything right and save the receipts,,and also he has already ran it to he mileage limit of 7500 miles they were telling him 3500 but the manual says 7500 so anyways,anyways I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and everyone complains about the oil housings and batteries on our journeys, well KIA out the plastic oil housing under the front end along side of the engine and you have to remove 6 10 mm bolts out of the plastic skid plate and then the filter canister is bolted to the side of the engine with the cap facing towards the ground ,,,they use about the similar kind plastic oil housing like dodge does....oh well thought I'd throw that out there for the ones that don't like our battery placement but at least dodge did right about the oil filter location B U T I do have to say IF the oil filter housing does have to be replaced it wont be a hard job to do about .4 bolts holds it on and would probably remove the wheel and plastic wheel liner and it is a straight shot for replacement...OH well off to the dealership for the filters right now

Also, don't forget to check the condition of the pigtail connector to the Battery Sensor. Small wires and subject to the same corrosion effetcts as the battery terminals themselves.

One thing to be aware of is, that the battery sensor is fully seated on the terminal. With the very short 2 wire harness and battery hold down. Getting in the way. Just need to go through and check all the connections. Clean and tighten

Yup, rear calipers can be an issue. They start to not fully retract after parking brake used. Can tap back so no gap is there, spring doesn’t seem strong enough. Pic is with parking on, gap should completely disappear when released. Freeing up with cycling doesn’t really help. Cross direction bleeding works best on Journey, longest line first. Passenger rear then driver front etc. If no pressure bleeder, just a 2” piece of clear tube over end of bleeder screw helps. You see clearly when no more air bubbles coming out. Light taps on caliper can be helpful.

They've never hung the phone up on me.....have a good day

Just what brake work have you done, just so all here can be on the same page with you. IF you replaced the rear pads, how did you retract the caliper pistons? they have to be turned and pressed in at the same time . Try jacking up the rear end and apply the parking brake and see if the rear wheels are locking up {simulating that they are working}, IF NOT then the parking brake actions inside the caliper and piston are bad , meaning replacement calipers are in order. Those pieces inside the caliper piston also determine brake pedal height and firmness of normal brake action. This is much the same as having properly adjusted rear brake shoes on a drum brake system.

You can always find a tuner to shut off the rear O2 sensors They serve no purpose than aiding in the government overreach