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Can't say it any better. I still question just what is meant by "they parted it out", did they sell off certain pieces like TIPM or ECM??? For best responses, FULL doings need to be stated so not to frustrate poster or members Might also want to go back to basics and clean battery cable connections and grounds on strut tower.

Wow that’s cold. We maxed out at -8F or -22C that night. Had to start Journey in morning, it made noises I hadn’t heard before and it has expensive 5w20 oil in it. Wished I had plugged in our block heater (cdn order Journeys often came with them) but nearest outlet is far away. Battery is only a year old, so no issue there. My local parts recycler sells used batteries for reasonable cash. I look at the manufactured date labels on batteries first…if they have them, then use my old school battery load tester on the newest two or three. If I give him my old DOA battery he credits that too. Amazing the price on new ones right now. You will like working on the 2.4 in the Journey. Lots more room under the hood so repairs are faster. Have serviced daughter in laws 2012 for 7-8 yrs now. Not great power and only a 4 speed automatic, but as you know …simple is good on older cars. pic of local Cdn bone yard , Journey section up to 8 vehicles now, and Harbor Freight $20:(yeah bought in down south 15 yrs ago) load tester.

Correct ! And NO TRIM LEVEL came with integrated booster seat{s}, they are a new car customer order option.

all journeys as far as I have seen have the passenger front seat bin and also they all have the rear floor storage bins as well,,, actually haven't seen any Integrated Boosters on the second row seats but they were an option ,,,I had a 2011 main street,and now a 2014 crossroad,

Not gonna lie....I laughed when I found this thread while researching my own issue with the washer low light coming on in my 2017 GT. I didn't think it was possible but after replacing the yellow rainx stuff my husband put in with the blue stuff I made him buy to humor me I'm laughing at how simple this fix was. No light now! This is the funniest fix I've ever come across. I can't stop laughing when I think about it

I went and took a closer look at the connector and look what I found. I guess good lighting helps. I have my answer. Thank you everyone for your input.

Lots of battery sensor related codes, airbag etc but the cps code might be real issue. Did you use a factory sensor or aftermarket when you changed it? CPS sensor does have a relearn procedure, try that first with the sensor that's installed now. Could also remove sensor off old engine which is probably OEM and see if that one is compatible. A pin out diagram gives a list of what each input should be. Signal from cps ends up there, could be wire harness damage and reduced voltage signal to ecm is an issue. There is a pin out diagram on this site. Lots of elect plugs worked on during engine swap, bad plug or poorly seated plug can cause a lot of trouble shooting grief.

WHY did you jump to posting here and not on your original thread? This makes things very confusing for members to follow and offer advice. NOW your most recent info has me looking for more background info as to just what you have done{they lost the "key" and parked it}How did you go aboout being able to "crank" the starter? Is the "red dot" ANTI THEFT warning light illuminated when you push the start button to accessory position? I'm beginning to suspect that ANTI THEFT mode has been activatedfrom past history of blown motor and "sitting" for some extended time.

thats what i thought it should fart or something. im putting new sensors in it now and we will see what happens. hopefully will work. thank you all for your help. i will keep you posted

Labor rates are exorbitantly high in some areas, all we know of this member is that is located in the northeast US. IF they are in a big city area, then I would believe their "quote", but I would be looking for a HIGHLY RATED INDEPENDENT SHOP. VERY FEW DEALERS actually care about the customer, just want the MONEY.

I would suggest a different dealership more garage, but IF THE JOURNEY IS RUNNING FINE ACCORDING TO THE TEMP GAGE AND ALSO AROUND 199-210 TEMP IN THE INFO CENTER THEN THE PROBLEM IS YOUR HEATER CORE IS PLUGGED UP check out you tube for the short cut way to replace the heater core,,,,to replace the thermostat which cost around $20-50 depending on where you get it and then the proper coolant another $ 40-50 and then labor to clean and flush the system should be less than $200-250 total for all so yes they are way over charging you welcome back to the group

First of all, what was the outcome of the electrical problem you previously posted of? And now, with all pulleys disconnected from the crankshaft this would indicate possible heat shield rattling on exhaust parts{cat converters, underbody shields} OR a possible bad crank pulley OR even {and I hope not} a cracked flex plate {flywheel}. The latter is rather difficult to fully inspect due to limited viewing area . Time to have a GOOD and REPUTABLE SHOP check it out.

Just what brake work have you done, just so all here can be on the same page with you. IF you replaced the rear pads, how did you retract the caliper pistons? they have to be turned and pressed in at the same time . Try jacking up the rear end and apply the parking brake and see if the rear wheels are locking up {simulating that they are working}, IF NOT then the parking brake actions inside the caliper and piston are bad , meaning replacement calipers are in order. Those pieces inside the caliper piston also determine brake pedal height and firmness of normal brake action. This is much the same as having properly adjusted rear brake shoes on a drum brake system.

I’m pretty sure that movement of the master cylinder is normal, I noticed the same thing on the car I was working on. Just make sure the two nuts are tight that hold the master to the brake booster. The sinking brake pedal is not normal or safe in any way so inspect your rear calipers carefully, that’s most likely where the problem is. If your unsure just replace them both and bleed the lines again. That’s what fixed the problem for me so it’s worth a shot especially if the dealer is giving you the runaround.

Start with your battery health..... a dying battery can cause many strange symptoms

I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t. Would Set a code and a light on dash, battery warnings. I’m assuming it the 3.6 not 2.4, you haven’t said which. Car will run with battery sensor unplugged, it sends current reading to ecm helps control alt. No spark is usually CPS sensor. The old engine is worn out from use, it didn’t just stop starting? You have all wire harness plugs properly seated. No open plugs not used. Easy to have a bad pin on a plug, check each individual plug with a multi meter. If turning over slow, clean up main grounds, boost with a second battery if needed.

"it made noises I hadn’t heard before" It was a few degrees below 0F here. Mine occasionally makes a noise in cold weather, but for those few days, in that cold, it S C R E A M E D!

I would be using OEM O rings minimum

There is no carb, you mean down throttle body opening. One of your many codes is throttle body, they have plastic gears so are sensitive, down plugs is better. Is the replacement engine a known decent unit? Lots of nonsense codes can come up with a no start problem. Two way scanner could trouble shoot electronic throttle body (known wear item), cam sensors, even map sensor can be cycled with canbus scanner. Parts more expensive where you are so trouble shooting will be worth your while. The cycle is spark, fuel, compression and timing. Common wear items on 2.4 is ETB electronic throttle body Hitachi makes OEM unit), cps crank position sensor (not always a code set).

It's SOOO COLD here that I had "brain freeze" from being out getting my battery charger hooked up to my "project" DJ when I read the posting here.....LOL after 15 minutes charging, it fired up. it has spent 5 hours on 2 amp trickle charge. But to the posting heere , yes that kind of temp difference between sides is a plugging up heater core.

I believe they were referring the 40 degree temp difference to the engine warming up from cold to hot,,,,not their temperature outside,,but yes heater core time either flush or replace,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,anyways replacing the thermostat will be a waste of time as drivers side is getting hot heat,so not a thermostat problem

water pump weep hole is one slow place,and the coolant jug and hoses for another, have you replaced the thermostat since having your problem? it is so easy to do and fairly cheap as well just replace with the right coolant,not so cheap but important,,,on your leak you need to see which side of the eng it is dripping from, if the oil cooler is leaking it will probably be dripping from the drivers side towards back side of the eng,,, also if the water pump it would be the passenger side of the eng,,,also SO easy to see if the oil cooler is leaking water or oil just remove the cover off the top of the engine and use a strong led light and look straight down alongside of your oil filter housing it should be clean and dry at the bottom of you see anything you might have a leak there

Yeah real snows are a much better than all seasons. It’s not just snow, it’s handling and braking on icy roads. I also have a set of all weather tires, snow flake symbol but can be used all year round, Cooper Discovery A/TW, US made tire. Also much better than all season, a little more money to buy, but only one set of rims make them worth considering (nice having tire sensors working). Not as good as a top level snow/ice tire; but way better than a no season radial. Have had dozens of different sets of snows (Hakapalita, Nokia, Toyo, Michelin) some very expensive; and the reasonable priced Cooper measure up. Rubber ages out and tires get hard, start to crack, tend to get really loud. If you don’t drive a lot, separate summer/winter tires don’t work out as well, the tires have lots of tread when cracking makes them unusable. Steel rims handle salt much better, fewer rims leaks from corrosion than aluminum. So use up the winters, then look at all weather tires next. My 2 cents.

My '14 has "blacked" rims done by previous owner on Blue body color. I'm not fond of the look, but like the spoke pattern. MY '13 has the "basket weave"spoke 19" rims is silver, and I love the look on the Grey body color. In my area rims are hard to come across at a decent price.....and only ONE of the FOUR DJ's I have has an extra winter set. The other 3 are running "all season" tires and do OK, but there are times full snows would do much better!

Howdy ! Since you have had the vans, then you know about the "quirks" of the 3.6 and the 62te trannie, that's a great start in transitioning to the DJ! Remote start is "doable" but will need some special equipment du to SGM {thanks to the Kia/Hyundai theft problem} or dealer flash to enter BCM and add the feature. AUTO START is add on is not a function commonly found in the DJ's, and has some with the feature in other Stellantis cousins not too well received Get SNOW TIRES and if your rims you have from one of the vans are 17", they will bolt up and work nicely on the DJ. I take it you don't care for the Silver look? SAFETY should take precedence over looks ENJOY your "new to you" ride !

Welcome!

Have you checked the fuse in passenger side kick panel. Probably HFM hands free module or similar. If Bluetooth module goes bad it kills battery fast, people often yank fuse as temp solution. There is a guy on this site who referbishes the pricy module for a decent price. Flashes firmware etc. Use search.

I also had NO reservations doing the "cut and hose splice" the the heater core on our '11. NO WAY that I wanted to do it "by the book" on a DJ, I did do a '04 Neon almost "by the book"{dash removal}, but cut the HVAC case to get the heater core out. This was on my son's first car and it almost made me not want to do any dashboard related work on any Dodge models! Yes paying dealer rates is a KILLER and I think as a way to make people trade in and buy a new{er} vehicle from them.....MORE MONEY!

Very high labor rate and that to do the heater core replacement "by the book" requires the a/c to be evacuated and disconnected and the WHOLE dashboard and steering column to be removed to replace the heater core. A "monster size" job. Find an independent shop for a quote and to do the job. Some states do not permit a registered dealer or shop to replace the heater core by the "cut and hose splice" method due to potential hot coolant leak spraying inside the drivers side footwell area as member 2late4u replied to you. Biggest SAFETY concern would be lack of windshield defrosting ability for vision.

I found a Youtube video of the connector. This is a stock part of the vehicle. Here is the link to the video and attached pictures from the video.

since it is not connected at both ends would lead me to say it was an after market device that was long ago taken out,maybe the dealership had put a tracking device on it and then removed it after the loan was paid off, no way for any of us to know for certain.anyways welcome to the group...

I don't know what that cable is for and I have FOUR Dodge Journeys ranging from '11 - '14 and NONE of them have that cable. Sorry to have given an incorrect response earlier!

It is the string cable that slows down the glove box door from fast opening when the latch is released to open the glove box. Many times when underneath dash work{replace cabin air filter,blend door actuator, access to interior fuse panel} the string breaks at the plastic end that goes to the door OR somebody forgot to hook it back up.

Cherokee's are really bad for grounding issues

Well it's 20*f and light snow here. I went out to my '14 after remote starting it and the drivers door did not unlock upon grasping the handle, FOB unlock works . The button to LOCK the door {in the handle} works, along with all other door functions. This is NOT a big deal for meas my FOB is always in my pocket to use, and it's too cold out to work on the door panel and check things out right now....maybe when winter ends sometime in JULY it will be warm enough to dig into it. It has been a few years since repairing the door handle on our '11 for broken wires inside the door handle, but for my current '14's "glitch" I don't think that's the problem. I think it may be the sensor itself.

Must have been just a "glitch"! I went out on errands a couple hours later and all was working fine. MAYBE the cold and some ice got into the handle and had the handle not fully retracted flush as normal???? IF it was a broken wire, either in the door jamb or in the handle, it would have given the service keyless entry message on the EVIC screen between the gages. it did NOT do that. Gotta love these COLD snowy winters ! Supposed to go down to 10^f or even a bit lower tonight !☹️

The warranty company must hate you! Good for you you bought it.

Sorry to hear of your recurring "camera" problem. MAYBE that's why I have not pushed hard to retrofit a camera system to any of our rides. The wife and I are by age trained longtime well to use our mirrors and turn our heads to back up......LOL !😁

I have the alphaobd program, but have not used it much other than to program fobs and add remote start function on '11 - '14 DJ's. I did not notice any setting to disarm door lock requirements on the menus that I used for remote start. ALL cars with factory remote start AND 3 aftermarket units I've installed in the past on older and other make cars have the protocol to have the doors lock as part of remote start function. Sorry but my vote for your wish is a NO vote.

Doesn't hurt a transmission to run cool

Try this - https://www.ebay.com/itm/126665078024?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WLBXaZbpSKC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=i3l8BOlITT-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Hi guys, I only did a starter cable upgrade. I only removed the starter cable nut. That alone was a pain and time consuming.

Fuses are my next step. I’ll try resetting first then new fuses. Keep everyone updated. Thank you for your knowledge.

Some more pictures. Unfortunately I cannot upload the others here.

Ok... hopefully the links work .. 01 DODGE JOURNEY SE WORKSHOP MANUAL (2009-2011 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_xuA6QF1MntZly_ggIJyDv6B6jmowE60/view?usp=sharing 02 DODGE JOURNEY JC MANUAL (CHANGES APPLY FROM 2012 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zX8rfowBmx1KZpx7zNHQENgcxjFnDjuw/view?usp=sharing

Failure analysis: Thinking back through the events when I replaced the rear pads, I remembered that the driver's side rear caliper was the first one I worked on. I had tried to use the universal cube tool to reset the pistons and I realized that I was turning the piston the wrong way. I ended up backing the piston out of the bore to the point where it became cocked. There must have been enough of an air gap to admit a large quantity of air into the cylinder, causing the loss of pedal firmness and authority. Lessons learned: Use the proper tools (i.e.: not the useless "cube" tool) for resetting the calipers. so it was the mechanics fault NOT the useless tool that turned the piston the WRONG way, by the way i use that same useless cube when i work on my journey and other vehicle that it fits ,,,LOL it works correctly every time for me,you must have got a defective one i would assume

I've found this too - https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/229045-another-spongy-brake-thread-after-replacing-pads-rotors.html Quote - Well, I now know why no one ever posts the resolution to this... because they're too embarrassed as to the resolution. It was the brake pads installed incorrectly. When I did the rears, I picked up two pads and they looked identical so I thought they were universal. Installed those 2, then looked at the other side, yep, identical. What I didn't realize was that I put two inner pads on one side, and two outer pads on the other side. Sooo... fixed the pads. Brakes work perfectly now! Yes, we all have dumb moments. Hopefully my admittance of stupidity will help some other poor fool out. Probably this is for the front ones.

Did you read the first page of this thread? I explained every step of the problems the car had and how I fixed it. Long story short, one of the rear calipers was not working, the piston was not squeezing the brake pad against the rotor. I don’t know what caused it to fail or how it caused a low pedal but it was the problem and a new caliper fixed it. The car is still driving around today with a good firm brake pedal.

I have been several times (5 or 6) at the dealer (two different FCA dealer service shops) for 10 months and they obviously cannot repair it and said it's OK and it's normal for this car that the brake pedal goes down to the floor (ridiculous and incompetent). The worst thing is that I made an official complaint to the FCA customer care international hotline, I wrote several (over 10) emails to them explaining all of this in greatest details, asking them for official statement about the brake pedal movement and technical design and tolerances of the brake system, asking the support if all of this is normal and safe, complaining, etc. I didn't receive any information, I've asked for. Not a single piece of technical data nor specification. Finally to my greatest regret I've been told this - Quote from the last email - "We are sorry to learn that you cannot accept the answer. Regrettably, we are not in the position to contest the information from our representatives." What a joke.