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You're a little late to the party on this.

SUGGESTION: POST the codes you came up with and how many miles on the car.Then we have information to work with. Normally pressure will be in the 80-90 psi range at start up and drop to 30-40 psi after warmed up.

And no one ever returns if they find a solution.....weird

Since we're replying to a 6 year old thread,I find the 3.6 is great for the Journey. if you think it's bad try the 2.4 and you'll see what gutless feels like.

go ahead and check it cold if needed to add some go ahead and add some THEN mark it real good with a black marker at the cold level and then later on after running it normal amount of time and then mark it again after it has set a bit to show the full mark and then check it every day for a couple of weeks and then once a week after that also a good time to check all the other fluids like power steering and brake fluid and the oil level

mostly I believe the bumper covers are kind of generic for all brands,have seen them on many different makes, dealership would be able to give you a more definite answer to your question,,good luck and please report back on what you find to be your answer

Snap a tape measure on the upside diameter. I doubt reg tire fits, very little clearance around plastic hoop. My donut just fits around my trailer hitch , have to fiddle a bit. Deeper reg tire would not clear hitch. Plastic surround hoop is only held by a few 10 mm bolts. Try removing for a little more room. Even if the diameter then fits, the extra 6” ish depth will be very noticeable hanging below vehicle.

Most of us don’t have the first version interior like yours. That dash might be shared with Avenger or other models. The whole cover is probabky pried loose with the vents and facia trim as a complete assembly. Auto wreckers often have torn apart cars. Good place to practise on removal, see where the hidden screws are. Use a set of plastic trim pry tools to pop apart some of the snap together trim.

2016 DJ horns wiring diagram.

You are in luck. You can. You have to remove the engine air filter box and the intake tube from it to the engine. There is one speed sensor on top of the transmission. Hidden by the large bundle of wires. Next to where the transmission cooler lines go into the transmission. The other 2 sensors are on the backside of the transmission. Close together. You have to look over the transmission. Use a good light.

Being the 4 cyl. the easiest way is to pull the spark plugs again and compare #2 plug to the other 3 looking for tip damage or clean wash compared to slight darkening of the others. I learned this "trick" WAY BACK in my YOUTH. IF all look the same, then you may have a coil going out and a stuck shut T-stat. I would suggest replacing BOTH stats at same time.

Thank you for sharing, I appreciate that. I'll review everything and report the results soon.

Standard equipment ...😉

It's for a flashlight.

Yes it's official now, I got a '13 sxt 4 cyl.model from my sister and brother in law for $400! Motor has 60k miles and body at 185k miles. Known needs are as follows Rear camber arms {I have adj. ones "on hand"} front and rear brake job { Has the "big brakes"} TIRES Drivers door due to inner bottom rust. { my friend has an exact color match/no dents/scratches/rust for $50. if I pull it} Bluetooth/phone non functional, never worked when bought by my sister. {if needed my friend has a couple BT modules for LOW price if I pull} Due to the season, I plan to let it sit for the winter and make it a Spring project {yes, it will be started and moved around to keep things up}, and then put up for sale to make a few bucks So, my son has the '11 mainstreet 3.6awd The wife has the '13 RT 3.6awd I have the '14sxt 3.6 awd and now this '13 4 banger and yup, I still run my '10 Lucerne! I'm not much of a picture poster, but if I can get my son's help and his DJ in the driveway, I'll "line them up for a group shot and have him help me post it here!

2016, 3.6L 135k When, I got my DJ. I knew it would have electrical issues. Because of the 4 gauge battery and electrical cables. The only other engine to chassis ground. Being the very small gauge wire on the passenger mount. With all it's electronic modules (12-14) it needs plenty of good grounds. Bad grounds cause all kinds of strange problems. I went with more grounds the merrier for my DJ. At a minimum if people would add a 2 gauge cable. Negative battery stud on strut tower to engine block stud. 4 gauge cable from the engine passenger mount to the strut tower studs. They would be good to go . Cost wise pretty cheap to do, for the added reliability. So, I posted these threads- https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/ https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18374-electrical-system-fyi-ground-system/ https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18296-charging-system-101-with-diagrams/ I believe in building a good solid electrical foundation. Easiest upgrade to do yourself. Which, would eliminate some problems. Then narrow it down to troubleshooting the specific load ( module, light etc.) Connections and the very small wires throughout the vehicle . It's too easy to get focused on a part, and miss it being something simple. Causing the actual problem. Well, to be honest cut down on repeat forum posts! Dean

The Jeep Cherokee's have terrible grounding issues the straps corrode and fall off

You can buy one in Mexico look pretty good also

Yes. Now is the perfect time to do it. The Dodge spec of 120k miles is just crazy. 60k miles is a safe bet. Too keep it running right and last as long as possible. People let it go too many miles or do not service it at all. It starts to to get expensive after that. Even, if there is any kind of warranty on it. Get it serviced.

I can only assume the crank position sensor is correct since each time John/Horace said to check that the poster never followed up. My only question is. Does it die instantly as you press horn or with a couple seconds. Also how often are you using your horn? Maybe the car gods are telling you to calm down 🤣🤣🤣

Sorry, but the job is finished and all is "buttoned" back up under the dash. I don't care to take lower dash panel and foot duct for drivers side back out for pictures. When I do repairs, I work to get the job done and on to the next project. There ARE YOUTUBE videos of the process I used that gave me the "guts" to do the "cut and splice" way of heater core replacement. Even my shop owner friend was impressed with how this worked out, he has done "flushes" with mixed results on a number of DJ's, and after doing a dash removal and replacement last summer does NOT wish to have to do this job the "proper" way. I had "test driven" the car over to his shop while the lower dash and duct were still out { and he looked things over} so I could do final clamp tightening to assure no leaks.

Just a quick update on my son's '11 I just got done replacing the heater core for the 2nd time since getting the car. It was so much easier to do since all that was needed was to cut the new cores tubes exactly as the old core and exact length cut the 2 5/8" hoses to splice all back together. Heat is better than when I last replaced the core 4{?} years ago In fack after 6 miles from dead cold start, I HAD to cut the temp. setting down on a 46^f test drive! His Fiance does NOT appreciate the COLD ride when riding "shotgun" with him !

Thanks. This thread is 6 years old.

And alot of this comes down to manufacturers having to meet government mandated mileage targets.Thus smaller engines needed to get there, pretty simple really.

All good responses. I would like the Durango for sure. Will have to wait for now, as I just bought a Journey in January 2024. Anybody disappointed with the 3.6 L in the Durango besides JKeaton

Instead of asking again about a task that PROBABLY has been posted of being done by a member here, did YOU spend any time looking for postings of this task being done and what they found? There are many variables with a bad head gasket job that can only be determined as to outcome once that particular motor in question has been "opened up", AND it is a BIG job that most normal owners would NOT tackle. AND a lot of shops do not want responsibility for if held to just put in a new head gasket and it does not work. Example being bad rings/piston from antifreeze being burned/cracked or warped head/block. Good luck to you in how you proceed.

Sounds like a fun job Karen I havent done a powersteering pump since i put the engine for my duster together, and back then it was easy peasy (Wouldnt surprise me if they added some wiring this time a)ound though )

3.6 is more than fine in my 2020 Grand Cherokee especially with the 8spd tranny

3.6 is a perfectly capable engine. Is it a hemi? No, but it does just fine.

Theres your problem, the 3.6 is barely adequate in the JC, it has no business being in a full size SUV If you are considering a durango, the hemi is the only acceptable engine option

Search this site. People had changed the TCC torque control solenoid going through side cover. Around a $50 part. Sometimes it fixed problem.

I got the Dorman 902-305 that they say not a fit, but works fine. Unlike the multi ribs on hose connectors tour pic. shows, it has singular barb on the ends and comes with squeeze clamps. I'm quite aware of the "quirks" of the 2.4 and yes I agree with your impressions of the car overall. Just got off the phone with my sister and Bro. in law, they gladly will take the $400. They also did not want to see it just be crushed, but that's about all they do around here now. SO, I sit on the car over the winter and start repairs in the spring with it.

Go with a cigarette lighter-power port adapter to USB.

Welcome! First thing, you should do is a correct transmission filter and fluid change. Do not wait. The transmission correct service is often neglected. Dodge recommends 120k miles. Your on borrowed time at that mileage. Here is a post, I put together on everything regarding that. https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18151-automatic-transmission-fyi-please-read/

Take it easy, I am suggesting that the fact the vehicle won't shift out of park is a hint of something else than electrical. What engine is it? Is there voltage at the starter when you try to start it?

Like the colour. Didn't know the Journeys were shorter then their cousins. Haven't had mine in the garage yet. Daniel

Welcome to the forum!

My 2011 has issues with the cruise control. I'm certain it's to do with the switch. I'm thinking it's caused by the vent blowing hot or cold air at the steering wheel. Regardless of how it's caused, my 'caveman' repair is to *BANG* the steering wheel with my palm at the 2-o-clock position. Usually one or two bangs fixes the issue for the entire drive. The switch gives issues once every 10-or-so drives. This is a FCA issue, not a Journey issue, a friend's '15 charger had the same issue when it was brand new. (changed his switch under warranty) A possible related thing might be the active recall on the wiring for the steering wheel (related to airbags). Maybe the wires got chaffed for the CC switch. One last bonus note is that if the tmps sensor is not detected in one of the tires, the cruise will de-activate over 55 mph. (such as the case of using a spare tire, rated to no more than 55mph)

Mopar stat is a Mahle in a Mopar box. I found out the expensive way.