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Geo_Journey_2014

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Everything posted by Geo_Journey_2014

  1. Geo_Journey_2014
    I too cracked my front bumper cover by scraping a snow mound at the end of my driveway over the winter. I am in the same boat, I have a high deductible and want to replace it myself. Has anybody put a SXT style bumper on a non-SXT?
  2. Geo_Journey_2014
    The factory 4.3 system will not handle anything but the stock speakers. (maybe some very high sensitivity 6x9's - and I mean maybe) and yes I would have to asume it is the "Uconnect" The resistors are to be connected in place of the factory speakers when using a l.o.c. ( line out converter). And no there are no outputs behind the dash - it is not even worth attempting to open up that dash. If you are not amplifying the door speakers and wish to only add subs, you will need a loc and an amp to drive them. You can get an amp that has speaker level inputs, but I highly recommend a loc. If i were you I would do A LOT of research on car audio systems. before buying anything. Installing aftermarket audio in these cars can be much more difficult than say cars from the 90's or older. I would start by reading up at http://www.bcae1.com/ a lot of good info. I have been messing with car audio as a hobby for 20 years and it was a challenge for me to design and build this system for the Journey. I did it right though, I did not cut one single factory wire and I would recommend that others do the same, you never really know which wire is a power lead and wich is a can-bus line, and you don't want to find out by cutting them. If you don't know what can bus is look it up. Remember A good aftermarket system can be done in these cars but it takes a lot of time, thinking, planning and research. oh yeah money helps too. I spent over $1200 doing my system as I described in the previous posts. As an update... It has been over a year since my install and everything still works PERFECT I have never blown a fuse, never ran my battery dead, or never overheated my amp, and it still sounds FANTASTIC! very loud, clean and good but not overwhelming bass. Also, I bought my Journey brand new almost two years ago and it has been a great car, no problems with it what so ever.
  3. Geo_Journey_2014

    Untitled Album

    Images added to a gallery album owned by Geo_Journey_2014 in Dodge Journey Member Albums

  4. Geo_Journey_2014
    IMG 20150306 212112874

    From the album: Untitled Album

    here is an example of the type of resistors to use.
  5. Geo_Journey_2014
    with resistors if you get non inductive wirewound resistors with the ceramic case and rated at a wattage higher than the output of your factory system they wont get too hot. I am using 2 ,8 ohm,20 watt resistors wired in parallel to create a 4 ohm load and a power handling of 40 watts rms. on each channel. the stock uconnect 4.3 is only 15 watts at best. and yes you can mount them anywere,on the stock speaker wires before the loc. I have mine mounted directly to my loc. and they have never even gotten warm, even after a solid 25 minute drive with the system cranked up. Just think, you put the resistor where the factory speaker was then daisy chain a wire from that to the input on your loc. - your head unit sees a load(thinks its a speaker) and sends sound to that channel which is then intercepted by the loc. and then you can send it to your amp or wherever you want. btw , I would look for a resistor designed for use in audio projects as they will be less likely to "color" the sound. Here is an example of the type of resistors to use.
  6. Geo_Journey_2014
    The box is 12w x 15d x 5h. with the sub facing up. using .5" mdf. internal volume is .356 cubic feet. the sub is a polk audio mm840 8 inch 250 watts rms. it fits perfect under the seat. As for the resistors, I had to use two 8 ohm 20 watt non-inductive resistors, only because 4 ohm ones were not available to me at the time. 4 ohm resistors would be ideal. since the head unit requires a 4 ohm load. if you do use resistors I recommend 20 to 50 watts so that they do not get too hot. my resistors are 20 watts each wired in parallel (think "bridged") one lead on positive one on negative, this places a load on the circuit making the stock head unit think there is a speaker attached and it will send a signal. I purchased mine from the local radioshack part number 271-0120. package description reads as follows : " 8-Ohm Non-Inductive Resistor. 20 watts - 5% tolerance, Non-inductive for audio applications." hope this helps.
  7. Geo_Journey_2014
    [
  8. Geo_Journey_2014
    8 inch sub box

    From the album: Untitled Album

    Yeah, I know, car is pretty dirty right now....
  9. Geo_Journey_2014
    Polk components
    Polk DB6501 6.5' Components with the included 1" tweeter. Google the numbers. They sound GREAT only if you amp them, off of the stock system they sound very weak. after I added my amp they come alive. they are well worth the price, best car speakers I have ever had.
  10. Geo_Journey_2014
    I will post pics as soon as I can. I will try to get to it asap, but it may have to wait until the weekend. The sub is mounted in a .35 cubic foot enclosure that I built. it fits (barely) under the driver seat facing up. so all you can see from the second row is the carpeted back of the box. The amp and LC7i is mounted to an amp rack that I also built and is covered in carpet. It fits perfectly under the passenger seat. The whole install is pretty stealth. I will take pics once I tie up the wires a little better on the amp side. also I want to mount the resistors to the amp rack to clean things up - its not bad, only visible if you stick your head under the seat, but I want to tidy it up a bit more. I will get pics up ASAP. I am pretty busy during the week.
  11. Geo_Journey_2014
    Polk components

    From the album: Untitled Album

  12. Geo_Journey_2014
    The install is done! I have successfully added and aftermarket amp and sub on a uconnect system! The only snag i ran into was maintaining a 4 ohm load on the factory head unit. I did this with two 8 om resistors wired in parallel( I could not get 4 ohm resistors at my local radio shack. You must do this on all four channels. I now have a 5 channel amp running my door speakers and a sub. All with out a PAC unit or excessive modifications IT CAN BE DONE!
  13. Geo_Journey_2014
    Thank you. I did it in a way were i can remove it if i do need to make a warranty claim. nothing was cut or removed.the rest of the audio equipment goes in this weekend.
  14. Geo_Journey_2014
    As you can see, not much to look at. if you look close enough at the alternator you will see the new ground and positive wire and ground to the chassis on the shock towers. I used 4 gauge ofc wire, crimped and soldered ring terminals and wrapped it all in heat shrink and flex loom. I wanted it to look like it was put there by the factory. I think it does, except for the fuse holder.
  15. Geo_Journey_2014
    My Journey3

    From the album: Untitled Album

  16. Geo_Journey_2014
    My Journey2

    From the album: Untitled Album

  17. Geo_Journey_2014
    Hello fellow DJ owners. I have just completed the "big three" on my 2014 Journey. I did this in preparation for my aftermarket sound system i will be installing soon. I recommend that ANYBODY planning on adding an aftermarket amp or other high current devices to your DJ do the big three. The factory wiring under the hood in these vehicles is sub-par at best. The factory ground from the battery to chassis was maybe 8 gauge. Anybody adding anything electronic wise will benefit from this upgrade . The job was not terribly difficult to accomplish however gaining access to the battery terminals was a pit of a pain. It took a couple of hours but i was taking my time, everything worked out perfect, no problems. If you do a big three be sure to fuse the alternator to to battery positive. There is some debate whether this is necessary or not. You should always fuse within a foot of the battery. As for the sound system goes here it is: I am keeping the factory base 4.3 Uconnect, Relocating the rear door 6x9's to the far rear panels(there are "dummy" grills back there, for premium sound system maybe?) and keeping the dash 3.5's, and removing the stock front door 6x9's This is to maintain a load on the factory head unit so it will continue to send a signal to all four channels. (the 4.3 has six speakers but only four channels, the dash and front doors are wired in parallel) I will be tapping into those signals at the factory speakers using an AudioControl LC7i, then to my Polk 5 channel amp and out to my new Polk component speakers in the doors, and a Polk 8" sub woofer under the driver seat in a seald box build by myself(yes i got it to fit, barely). So i will end up with this: dash 3.5 and far rear 6x9's will receive stock head unit's 15 watts, and new components in the doors will get amplified 70 watts rms and 200 to the sub. So there it is in a nutshell. I will post an update once it is complete or if i have any problems with my plan i will let you know. I wanted to post and contribute something to these forums. I have been doing alot of reading on here and have gotten some good info.And now it is my time to give something back.
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