bfurth

Duct tape and crazy glue! That sucks - hope it heals better this time.

Yikes! Hope recovery is going well.

I do want to add to my pair/unpair routine suggestion: make sure that the Bluetooth audio source is unpaired as well. I had an issue when I first bought mine with an old POS phone that paired in two menus under the device menu (phone and audio), and it would not cooperate until I figured out how to remove both pairings.

I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles. I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it). It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since. For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along. Things break. Thing which move break faster. Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still. A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense. Never forget that.

Unpair the phone (delete pairing from vehicle and phone), reboot it, and pair it again. Make sure your phone has all of the required security and software updates. Also, Bluetooth is not perfect. I've had similar problems and could never get the dealership to recreate them.

I know that there is a computer initiated bleed procedure for a newly installed ABS module. The correct procedure is 4 wheel bleed, ABS automated bleed, 4 wheel bleed again. If you don't have a scan tool capable of initiating that bleed, take it to a shop.

2100. The keyboard must have shifted on you.

Word of advice before paying any dealership for any part - price match the part elsewhere, ESPECIALLY if it's something you can live without for a few days. A Bluetooth antenna on its own is dirt cheap (you can get a USB PC adapter for under $20). An automotive specialty part should not cost anywhere near $750. As for the Keyless Enter-N-Go - that's not exactly how that works. The key fob has to be within 5 feet of the door you are attempting to open. Go ahead - have someone try to open the passenger front door while you stand near the driver front door - it won't (shouldn't) work. There is a delay from the time I grab the door handle on mine to when it actually unlocks (less than one second). That's plenty of time for the door handle to sense an unlock request (the act of touching it creates that request), then transmit a local signal to detect the key fob, receive a return signal from the fob that it is in range and it is the correct key, and return an unlock command to the door(s) in question. Even mediocre programming wouldn't have it constantly searching for the key fob.

At the very least, learn to do brakes yourself. There's no reason to touch the calipers unless they're leaking or fully seized. A 4 corner pad and rotor replacement can be done for $200 USD on the 2011, I don't think it's much more for later versions with the bigger brakes, plus the cost of obtaining appropriate tools if you don't already have them (socket set, jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, caliper wind back set - combined, you're looking at anywhere from $100 plus renting/borrowing what you need just for that job, $250 if you buy everything, and as much as you want if you buy it from a truck). Throw in an extra $10 for some sand paper (clean up the surface of the wheel hubs when you change rotors), anti-seize (makes removing the rotor the next time MUCH easier), and some brake grease (lubricate the slide pins - I've had friends with brake problems that were entirely due to the fact that the slide pins were bone dry), you could do the whole thing yourself in an afternoon for under $500 USD. The next time you'd have to do it, it's only $200, and under $100 if you catch the pads before they wear out. The way the older models (pre-2012) chew though brakes (single piston front caliper is the tell for the smaller brakes), you should learn to do it yourself. There are plenty of threads on this topic on this board (and I think one or two where I've posted the torque specs for the associated bolts).

Have you consulted your owner's manual? That will tell you everything you need to know about the maintenance schedule and what items are required based on intervals. https://carmanuals2.com/dodge/journey-2011-owner-s-manual-31045 As for the alignment check - did they actually put it on an alignment rack and give you a readout of the current measurements? If not, how could they possibly know it's out of alignment (unless it's horrifically out of alignment)?

My 2010 T&C threw a P0562 a few years ago. It was due to a failed battery. No other issues ever presented (other than those associated with a dead battery that won't charge anymore). The code specifically means "low battery voltage." It could be due to other issues, but if you've got an older battery and that code, it's past time to replace it.

Which is utterly stupid, considering we have a computer display right in front of us. I second the "go to any auto DIY shop, or buy a code reader on Amazon" sentiment.

I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on multiple other vehicles and never had an issue with this kind of noise right out of the box. Sure, I get that after sitting for a day or two with rain, but who doesn't? If you're going to replace the pads with a different brand, re-do the entire job (aside from the rotors). That includes cleaning and re-lubricating the slide pins.

I found it. FYI - it's 43 ft.lbs.

For some reason, I don't think using an impact wrench is the right tool for the job...