bfurth

It was already in the refrigerator. Cost is negligible.

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum PurePlus through Amazon for $28. Add in a Purolator One PL12222 for another $7. $35 for a full synthetic top tier oil change where I know exactly what and how much is in my engine (changed 1 year post manufacturing date, give or take a few weeks). Beat that!

5/32 is serviceable for two tires. Technically, you can replace one tire at a time (since it's not AWD), but it's not a great idea - especially with nearly a 1/2" difference in outer tire diameter from one wheel to the other. The newer tires should be on the back since you can better correct for understeer due to the fact that you can actually feel the front wheels through the steering wheel. You're best bet? Get the two closest matching wear tires and put them on the front. Get two new Kumho Solus (or other similar) tires and put them on the back. Discard the tire with a hole and keep the 3rd original as a spare for the front wheels for the next year (if you have space to store it - keeping the tire will save you the cost of a second new pair for the first problem and only cost you about $15-$20 to have it mounted). When the next tire rotation comes around, replace the front tires, move the rear wheels to the front, and put the two newest Kumho Solus (or an exact match to what you put on now) on the back. By that point, the remaining OEM tires will be at or near discard tread depth anyway. Also, when that happens, discard the 3rd OEM tire as it will no longer be a useful spare tire. Edit: Assuming you go this route, once the second pair of new tires are on, you most likely can resume a normal tire rotation schedule.

My Chrome-Clad rims have adhesive weights inside AND clip-on weights on the back side. When the time comes to put new tires on, if the shop in question puts balance weights on the face of the rim, I'm going to get angry...

And since you know exactly what the problem is, you can call them in advance and have them verify the part is in stock before you get there.

Because I was bored while changing my oil this weekend, I took the engine cover off (and got a chance to clean out some minor dirt buildup from around the oil fill cap). It was marginally difficult to get all four pegs to seat properly in the cover. I go back to my original assessment - the only reason this is a recall is because some numbskull couldn't figure out if all four posts were properly attached, and they didn't pull the cover back up just to test the installation. Once it's in, it's not going anywhere. If you don't push the cover back down fully, it could come off pretty easily (especially on unpaved roads, where the first reported instance occurred).

Just in case they didn't tell you already - make sure you have ALL of your keys with you when you drop it off. If you have more than 2, it is imperative that you inform them of this in advance. They will replace any working keys you have, provided they all function properly when the vehicle is brought to the dealership.

The recall notice is now showing up under my Mopar Owner Connect login. The recall number is R32 (NHTSA 15V-431). No parts are showing available for it yet. I'm interested to see what they did as far as a modification to hold it on stronger.

Paint on scrap material first to test. You don't need much - a sanded piece of 2x4 will do. Cut a piece to fit inside the wheels (vehicle off, parking brake set, etc. - you don't want to actually move while this is happening...) and paint it with the burnt copper. Place it inside the wheel (rear is easier - more clearance) and take a picture. If the color looks ok in that position, then you're good. If it looks off, no need to take the time to paint the calipers.

"Manual" transmission (Autostick) is part of the PRND+/- switch - move your gear shift all the way down and tap left/right to decrease/increase gear. For 2010, this is if you have it. Do you have an EVIC? Go to "Vehicle Information" and scroll through - you should have information for coolant temp, oil temp, transmission temp, engine hours, and may also have oil pressure. Otherwise, you need a scan tool. Fresh ATF+4 is bright red. You have the 62TE transmission. You'll need to provide your own dip stick (one can be made from a coat hangar with the proper measurements). DO NOT leave it in the vehicle or you risk serious damage to your transmission. If you don't know the current temp of your transmission fluid, the dipstick is useless. http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/324691-2012-caravan-transmission-fluid-check.html There is some good information on there regarding reading the 62te fluid level, but I can't find the temperature chart anywhere. The fluid levels should be the same for the Journey 62te as it is for the Grand Caravan/Town and Country, but I am not a Chrysler mechanic, so my information is not be taken on blind faith - verify it by another source.

Judging by the images from their website, it won't work for the Journey. The pinch weld for us is nearly 1" in height. That adapter looks like it's only 1/2" deep maybe. It also only serves for lifting, not something that can be used with jack stands. I'll get photos over the weekend of what I'm making - no one has voiced any safety concernes over the use of vulcanized rubber, and there are several products on the market of similar material. I'm just going to make my own for a total cost of materials of $8 (and an as-yet undetermined amount of time with a hack saw).

I'd love to have the added power of the Pentastar versus the WGE 2.4. But I only drive 7 miles a day round trip for work. 4 cylinders is enough for me!

Amazon has the same thing, but it's $10 instead of $8. Not sure if Advance Auto will ship it.

For $9, it's cheap enough to buy a can and spray it on some scrap material. If it's close (and it won't have to be perfect, since it's not actually directly against the body paint), the calipers can be exposed and painted at the OP's leisure.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/vht-paint-engine-metallic-burnt-copper-11-oz-aerosol-sp402/99984842-P?searchTerm=engine+paint Try that!

It's not that slick, and for the stands, I'm cutting part of the way through so it surrounds everything. Even with that, I'm pretty sure the coefficient of friction for painted steel is lower than "smooth" vulcanized rubber!

They are very dense rubber. For the jack, it's just going to sit on top of the existing steel plate. Nothing is needed to hold it in place - the mass of the vehicle pushing down on it will do that. For the stand adapters, effectively there will be 1/2" of rubber on each side of the pinch weld as the whole setup sits in the mouth of the jack stand. I'm not permanently attaching them - just putting them in place when I need to have the vehicle off the ground.

I don't want to damage the paint. It's more for cushioning purposes than anything else.

And this is why I like the 2.4L. Step 1: remove engine "beauty" cover Step 2: unbolt and remove coil pack on each spark plug Step 3: remove spark plug Step 4: install new plug Step 5: reconnect coil pack Step 6: re-attach engine" beauty cover I think it took me longer to type this that it would actually take to change out the plugs. You need fewer tools to replace the spark plugs in the 2.4L than you do to change the oil!

I've got my first oil change coming up as soon as I have time (vehicle only has 3,200 miles on it, but it's an August 2014 build, so it's time to remove the factory fill). In an effort to avoid damage to the pinch welds as long as humanly possible, I'm goign to construct some pinch weld adapters using regulation hockey pucks (3"x3"x1"). The plan is to use them for both the jack lifting plate (I'm cutting a 3/4" deep groove down the middle of one puck and calling it a day) and for the jack stands (I've got a set of Craftsman stands with no deep groove). Plans for the jack stand adapters: Cut one puck in half, leaving me with two semi-circles of 1" thick hard rubber. Cut a 1" (more exact measurement to be taken against the pinch weld) deep groove in each half (across the long face that used to be the middle of the puck) to slide on top of the pinch weld. Remove the bottom 1/4" from each puck to put a flat surface on the jack stand. Does anyone see any potential safety issues?

And Doesn't FCA know it! Just look at the Chrome Appearance Package wheels!

Sadly, that cheap of a solution does not exist for the rubber stem versions. But I've still got a cheap answer for that as well. It's not perfect, but, as they say, it's good 'nough for gubment work!

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-22-5-00709-8A-Black-Plastic-Valve/dp/B000KKLLFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438356383&sr=1-1&keywords=valve+stem+caps Don't overthink this.

Failed hardware is failed hardware. That's what we have warranties for!

If I'm just going to use air to blow the water off, I might as well get out my compressor and blow 150 PSI air at the car. Instead, I use the Meguiar's water magnet towel.