bfurth

The 62TE gets a drain and fill with filter change at 60,000 miles under fleet duty (taxi, police, rental, etc.) or with towing. Normal duty (no towing, average Joe daily driving) has a 120,000 mile drain and fill with filter change. The ONLY fluid that should ever go in that transmission is ATF+4.

The only thing I can think of that would cause a phone not to pair properly is previous pairing of the same phone, or too many paired devices. I assume this is a used 2013 we're talking about here? Assuming it still isn't working, you need to go into the Options menu, Phone/Audio, and delete ALL of the paired devices. Do the same on the phones you want to reconnect. Then, pair each device again. I ran into this with an old phone (non-smart phone) that just would not update the phone book properly. I deleted the pairing from Uconnect and from the phone, but it would not re-pair properly. Until I found that it was still in Uconnect as an audio device. This was after I erased my phone. I was not happy.

They need to make money too. If they just accepted on blind faith any statement of damage after it left their lot, they'd be bankrupt pretty quickly.

As you should. I'd also walk around the entire vehicle and inspect for any changes to it since you last saw it. You get one chance to notice mistreatment of your vehicle from the shop.

Champion is OEM for my '10 T&C 3.8L, so I don't see why it wouldn't be aoEM for the 3.6L.

Are the new tires the same size as the old tires? I've always replaced tires with all season touring (which is what typically comes on any vehicle I've ever bought) and use the tire placard information on the driver door to set the inflation. Any information on the sidewall of the tire is a max cold inflation pressure, which is typically not the recommended running pressure. If it's the same size and aspect as the OEM tire, just fill it to what the placard reads and keep an eye out for uneven wear. If it's a different wheel with different tire pressure, then you'd need a few things adjusted - speedometer for one (possibly), and a new threshold for when the TPMS would indicate low pressure. Perhaps a dealership can adjust these? They're all electronic anyway.

I've been in Spain in 110 F weather. It felt wonderful! Then again, I'm from Baltimore, and days with 70% humidity in the 90s are not uncommon. I'd MUCH rather have your 92 than ours. 100 in Spain feels like 80 in Baltimore.

You're within 1 week of purchasing a used vehicle, so it depends on how much that dealership wants to do business with you in the future. I would ask for replacement TPMS modules on the remaining 3 wheels - ESPECIALLY if they show signs of corrosion. Before you go, GENTLY clean them with automotive soap and water and a soft cloth (don't use anything more abbrasive than a hand towel). If they appear black after that, that is a sign of possible corrosion. A replacement TPMS will have all the necessary parts. The next time you get tires, make sure the shop doing the replacement rebuilds the valve cores correctly. There is a specific kit for the aluminum stems. If they use the wrong metal, it will corrode.

Chrysler part 68078768AA http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-JEEP-DODGE-TPMS-TIRE-PRESSURE-SENSOR-VALVE-STEM-MOPAR-OEM-68078768AA-/330635394618 That is a plastic cap, exactly as it comes shipped from Chrysler's supplier. A Chrysler dealership replaced 3 of mine, and the 4th I paid a shop for, and they ordered from a Chrysler dealership. The stock part is plastic. What you can do to avoid it is to stop driving a vehicle that has ever been in the US rust belt. And move south of it yourself. Bramfrank - you are correct, if the valve caps are aluminum, then it shouldn't corrode any faster than the valve stem itself. If it was any other metal, there is a chance of corrosion to one part or the other.

Because the valve itself was already corroded and weak. I have a 2010 Town and Country* that had the same problem. 3 out of the 4 valve stems broke within a month of me buying it used in 2011. *The Town and Country/Grand Caravan and Journey share a LOT of parts. This is one of them.

NO!!!!!! Don't use metal caps!!! That will increase the speed at which those stems will corrode! It's called galvanic corrosion. The 2009/2010 valve stems can use the cheap plastic caps that would also fit on any bicycle tire. Edit: To be more accurate - there are 4 pieces to that valve stem/pressure sensor. There is the pressure sensor and integrated valve stem (the part containing the transmitter and batter, and the aluminum valve stem that comes out of it - yours broke about 5/8 of an inch from the tip), the valve core (the pin which actually seals the valve when pressurized aire is behind it (ie, inside the tire), the valve stem nut (yours ripped open down the side) which is used to secure the valve stem/sensor to the wheel, and the valve stem cap (should be plastic, keeps gunk out of the opening of the valve stem you would use to add or remove air). You COULD use an aluminum cap, but plastic is fine.

The TPMS sensors with integrated valve stems Chrysler used on MANY vehicles in 2009/2010 are terrible. They are cheap aluminum, they will corrode, and they will break. Even better - the OEM sensors have no means of removing the valve stem. You have to go aftermarket if you want the ability to just replace the stem while keeping the sensor. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-974-061-Chrysler-Pressure-Transmitter/dp/B004AITV9Y/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Dodge%7C40&Model=Journey%7C6800&Year=2010%7C2010&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive - this may work, but you should always check the part manufacturer for vehicle fit before buying something.

I promise you, if they hadn't, they are now.

As with most IT security related threats, it happened because of one of the following: Insufficient time in testing Insufficiently experienced programmers Lack of imagination by the programmers for methods to attack the vehicle My assumption is it's a combination of options 1 and 3 in this case. They likely assumed they had most things buttoned up pretty well, accounting for security within the vehicle. The entire concept of attacking a vehicle from a remote location is new. Now that it's happened, more auto makers will pay closer attention to it. FCA just happened to be the company that got hit first. Rest assured - everyone else is currently tearing their wireless systems apart looking for the same attack vectors that were just shown to be exploitable through some FCA vehicles. Please also note - this article was not released until AFTER FCA had released a patch. Security work, by necessity, is quiet. You don't go running around shouting "I've got a locked door!!!" You simply lock the door and move on. In the case of a software update, you need only advertise it to the people affected. In the case of security research, you notify the affected vendor first, wait for their response, and (if you're not a d-bag), give them time to fix it before you publish.

It shouldn't have any added costs. This is a software bug - a flaw left over from programmers who either didn't notice it, didn't think about it, didn't have enough time to test it completely, or lacked the imagination to attempt hacking into a car through a cellular network and attempt to take over the major vehicle systems through an open port accessible to the radio. Software code maintenance should be expected whenever you release an operating system (and let's be realistic here - UConnect is an operating system). If for no other reason than to allow continued compatibility with new phone software, UConnect should be getting periodic updates. The hackers in question did not do this with malicious intent. This is not their first hacked car, and it won't be their last. I'd rather the flaws be identified and the manufacturer notified quietly so they have time to develop a patch to fix the flaw than to find out it's possible as the result of a deadly wreck. The lesson learned by vehicle owners is that we are driving mobile computers. You patch them when updated software comes out - the manufacturer doesn't do things just because they feel like it. This is only slightly different than Microsoft or Apple releasing a patch regarding known flaws in their own software that would allow for the theft of personal data (name, Social Security numbers, date of birth, etc.) - and only different in the potential for immediate effect. The lesson that should be learned by EVERY vehicle manufacturer is to pay external consultants to attempt break into your stuff. If they can, they need to provide full documentation as to how they did it, and they get put under a non-disclosure agreement until the patch has been out for at least a few weeks (to allow time for current owners to update their own vehicles).

Which would also permanently disable the microphone for hands-free calling. The 2015's do not have any indication of power. It's only in operation when the headlights are on, the vehicle is in drive, and there is a significant difference in ambient light between front and back of the vehicle. Putting it in reverse will disable the function. Daylight driving with headlights on (I know there are some areas which require full headlight use while driving through construction zones, regardless of lighting conditions) will not activate it (there are two light sensors, one in the front of the mirror assembly, and one on the reflective side, top center of the mirror). I don't see anything in the owner's manual that tells you how to disable it. It may have been an option in a previous version of the vehicle, but it's not there in 2015.

My 4s on 8.4 was able to connect to a 4.3S radio no problem. All expected functions work correctly via bluetooth (calling, audio controlled via iPhone). If you are having issues getting the radio to update properly, my next stop would be the dealer. It's a 2013, so you should still be under warranty.

It's a recall. You will never be asked to pay for the recall repair. If they don't have a new WIN module for you, at least take everything else off the fobik whe you use the vehicle, or remove the emergency key from the fobik when you get in. Then, keep.asking the dealer when they will get parts in.

I've got a 4s running 8.4 that I can check later today. What functions are you having issues with?

Welcome to the fleet! Here's to hundreds of thousands of care-free mileage!

That's not how the gearshift works...

More than likely, that won't do anything. Those turn signal warnings are typically for when the vehicle has travelled at some combination of distance, time, and speed. Sitting in the driveway is no different than waiting at an extraordinarily long red light. . . . . . And there it is. Page 231 of the '15 Owner's Manual (I know, strange place to find this information, isn't it?) A “Turn Signal On” message will appear in the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) and a continuous chime will sound if the vehicle is driven more than 1 mile (1.6 km) with either turn signal on.

I can't even remember the last time I forgot to cancel a turn signal. I know most cars in the last decade or so will have a warning chime if you leave the turn signal on for some distance (usually at least half a mile). There isn't much difference between a chime and an animation on an EVIC screen. For lane changes, I usually just tap the multi-function arm for the 3 flashes of the lights. Unless it's bad traffic. Then I have to actually fully depress the arm and wait 5 minutes to finally get someone who is willing to let me over.

And when it does and the engine overheats and you have a $3,000 repair or have to replace the vehicle, you have no one to blame but yourself. Cars break. Get over it. It's a component that ANYONE can fix in their driveway with little more than a set of pliers.

That is how the Blue Streak Pearl is supposed to look. You have to compare sections at the same angle as reflections in that paint REALLY make a difference in it's appearance. The sections at the same angle towards the lense all look identical from one panel to the next. As the light/angle changes, the paint appearance changes, but that's unavoidable - freshly waxed at night in a parking lot, it looks black!