CameraGuy

I can’t say for certain, though someone in one of the YouTube videos I watched claimed that they did. I’m not sure that the rocker arms are to blame though. They have bearings in them, and bearings wear out over time.

Yes he does, though it would have been more helpful if he had shown everything with the engine in a vehicle, rather than out on a stand. That made everything look so much easier…especially turning the crank to line up the timing marks (I could only get at it from underneath the car), and working on anything on the right side of the engine, which is tucked up under the dash a bit in our journeys.

I didn’t take a many pics, but got a couple with the covers off and a couple of the damaged cam shaft. I’m the pic of the camshaft, both lobes should be the same length….you can see how the bad rocker arm just ground it down over time and why you shouldn’t leave things too long.

I am the original owner, and put all 185k miles on my DJ. Idk that I’m deserving of such a title…more “mechanically inclined” than anything. I found a great 2 part video on YouTube posted by “motor city mechanic” that went through everything, including the torque specs and the proper order of tightening all the bolts. I had done the intake manifold and spark plugs before, but hadn’t dived any deeper into the motor on this vehicle before (rebuilt a couple old motorcycles) so I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss anything. My main concern was messing up the timing, but after seeing him use the proper tools and how the cam phasers didn’t come off the chain, it just made sense to use the proper tools and do everything the right way.

Roller rocker arms tend to wear out over time and need to be replaced. It’s also a known issue that they tend to go bad on the right side (bank 1) of the 3.6 pentastar motors. I’m not sure why, but there is a very noticeable difference in discoloration of the parts between the two sides of the motor. The only difference I can think of is the pcv valve on the right side. I will say, that had I done the repairs when the tapping first started, I probably wouldn’t have had to replace the camshaft also. Those are around $350 USD each just for the part. The faulty rocker arm ground the cam lobe down over time and it needed to be replaced. So my advice would be to take care of issues as they arise rather than letting them go to do more damage. Aside from the repairs I did today, I’ve only needed regular maintenance so far. Oil changes, brakes, tires, and spark plugs. Don’t get discouraged by all the posts about issues in the forums. That’s only a handful of people and most don’t post when things are running right. There are a ton of journeys on the road, and I imagine there are quite a few with high mileage. I’d love to keep mine for another 100k+ miles….I like not having a car payment lol

Hello all, I just finished my “185000 mile tuneup” on my 2016 journey rt awd today. The engine has had the infamous rocker arm tapping for quite some time. I finally started getting some low end power loss from it and decided to dive in and do it myself. I ordered 24 rocker arms, 24 lifters, 6 plugs, 6 ignition coils, a pcv valve, and all the gaskets needed as well. Upon opening the right side valve cover, I immediately spotted a damaged exhaust cam lobe, which showed me where the faulty rocker arm was. After inspecting the rest of the cams, I found both left side cams to essentially be as good as new, and found some heavy pitting on one of the cam lobes on the right side intake cam as well. I drove to the dealership and picked up both right side cam shafts. Once I began, I found the left side to go smoothly, but had some issues with the right side. I ended up stripping three of the exhaust cam bearing cap bolts. Two came out fairly easily, while the third took quite a while, but eventually came loose with a pair of vise grips locked tightly on the bolt head. Had to make another trip to the dealership to replace the bolts. Also, in case you’re wondering, yes I also bought the $15 kit of tools to lock the cam phasers and release the timing chain tension, as opposed to using less than desirable methods of removal. After buttoning everything back up, and hitting the start button, the engine revved extremely high, very briefly, but then idled normally after that. Upon putting my foot on the brake pedal, I realized something was wrong…and found that I had forgotten to reconnect the brake booster vacuum line. After fixing that issue, everything is running quiet, smooth, with no more tapping or power loss. Hindsight being what it is, I kinda wish I had just paid a mechanic to do the job. Lol In any case, I just wanted to share that and hope this may help others fix their issues as well. Feel free to comment, ask questions, etc -CG

Well that’s gonna be fun hunting that down this summer...

That is my thought as well, but if you read what I wrote, the ac compressor clutch started functioning as it should when I topped off my engine coolant. I’m just sharing what happened and wondering if anyone has some insight into this. It may just be a weird coincidence, but who knows with the computers running everything in our vehicles now.

Ok so some weirdness just happened. I noticed that my engine coolant (aka antifreeze) was low so I went to the store and picked some up. When I filled it to where it should be and started the engine, the ac compressor clutch was working as it should. I kinda feel like I’m going insane, but would engine coolant level have anything to do with that? I doubt circulating refrigerant would take much, if any, heat away from the engine.

Ok so I didn’t see any stickers, but everything I’ve found online and in the manual point to the 1234 coolant. I haven’t done anything with that yet, however today I realized my ac compressor clutch is always engaged unless climate and vent are off. I’m fairly certain that started today on my drive home. Any thoughts on what to check first? Fuse, relay, switch, humidity sensor or other?

Hey guys, I need to recharge my ac, and just want to verify what refrigerant to use for my 2016 DJ. Is it r134a or this 1234yf stuff that appears to be in every other dodge vehicle now? Couldn’t find anything definitive googling. thanks, cg

He clearly states that it is because of the way the company handles a known issue...rather than actually fixing the problem, they put a bandaid on it and hope it goes away...

Yeah that seemed to be what I found in my searches and reading the older forum posts. I was just hoping someone had found something worth spending a little money on

Has anyone found a good service/repair manual for the 2016 DJ? I see that Chiltons has an online version only. Anyone using that? How is it? I have also seen others ranging in price from a few bucks to over $200 for the “Chrysler service manual”. Are the manuals for the earlier years with the 3.6 good enough to get me by?What do you use? Any input on something that would be good for basic repair and maintenance would be appreciated.

They said the rotors didn't look bad, but I was just amazed at the amount of pad left when he told me the measurements. Pads seem to be wearing evenly and I can deal with a little pulsation for a while. Still no problems braking I just thought it would be getting close to the pads being no good by now. And yes, 65k is a lot. I drive a little under 1k miles per week for work (a bit less in the summer).