Armando G

Agreed. If you paid to get a diagnosis of your problem, then you should have received something showing what is wrong and/or something darling what was done tio solve the problem. If the problem wasn't resolved, then take it back for a reinspection.

It would seem a battery change was done and all was well, considering there was no update.

Have you tried to just simply call the dealer's service dept to see how much it would cost? The original battery seems to be of good quality. Otherwise I would recommend just your local mechanic, even a tire shop can install a battery. Are you trying to save money or find a quality battery?

Mine was in for almost 4 weeks and I needed a car before getting approved for a dealer loaner/rental, so I rented one. After submitting all off my paperwork they are paying for my rental, and they did give me a car for the last 3 days they had it. Glad they came through.

I'm trying really hard to understand your post, but get lost. Are you saying you fixed the negative connection and it now works? Are you still using the "undersized battery"?

Step one... check/change the battery. Step two... tell us why you changed that particular sensor, and we may be able to help some more.

Easy... you paid to get this done, let them figure it out.

So did they give you a loaner while you wait? That seems like it's going to be a long wait with no car? I also didn't realize they dropped the drivetrain warranty on these cars. My 2015 has a 7 year/100k mile standard warranty. Just got a new tranny put in. Good luck.

Thanks for the advise... very much appreciated.

Trade it off, you can probably get a 'hot' deal on a 2018, 6cyl right now. Keep you nice and warm through the winter. Almost 10 year old car, bound to have more issues popping up soon. Otherwise, take it in and quit guessing at it.

If you don't want to go back to the dealer, you can try a soft reset of the radio or a factory reset at home. Google it, look through the forum, or call uconnect to walk you through it. If that doesn't work... dealer time.

That does sound like a fuel pump issue. Check the pressure, check the fuel pump fuse, and (might be obvious) check the lines all the way back for leaks.

Ok, I'll ask... how much did you pay for it?

They sell a third row seat headrest, so there must be a way to take it off. You can always go to the dealer's part dept and ask if they'll tell you how to take it off. They've printed instructions for me in the past.

Assume 'panel beater' means the body shop? Wonder what they called you? In any case, I've had a rattling front end on my older Explorer, and it turned out to be a cracked bushing. When stopped, you would of never guessed but once I replaced the bushing, it was nice and quiet. Don't get stuck just checking the plastic parts that seem to be the obvious cause.

Wear and tear is actually the lesser of the reasons for a rental car. We should enjoy our cars. I just dread the thought of breaking down. I just did an 800 mile trip (total) in my DJ, and literally 3 days after getting back my transmission went out with no warning or symptoms. I wasn't planned to be the driver, but plans changed and I ended up driving. I can just imagine if the tranny went out on the trip . Anyway, have a great trip, take plenty of breaks, and good luck.

Welcome @Chopper. Lots of good stuff here. I know it's helped me a couple of times.

Ummm.... just saw the code in the heading. Never mind Before you all start jumping on me.

@Prairie54... that's great news. I just got mine out of the dealership (transmission) and made sure I mentioned which dealer it was, just in case someone else nearby ever needs help. I'd suggest adding which dealer helped you to at least recognize them here.

I would suggest going back to your trusted mechanic to find out why it isn't fixed (unless you already tried that). I assume they guarantee their work(?). What was the code it was spitting out? You have 12 days to do so...

I will say, Auto Zone has two different brand batteries and I believe one is much better than the other. But yes, it is sometimes a crap shoot. As a matter of fact, I have no clue what's currently in my DJ...I do know I have had no issues in the 3.5 years I've owned it. I'm assuming it's still the original battery. Maybe I'll take a peek tomorrow when I clean her up.

They said it worked out to be around $7k-$8k, but that was because of the extra labor spent diagnosing the transmission itself. They had to take it apart and submit pictures to FCA in order to get the warranty approved. The initial submission they sent stated it needed a tranny replacement, but FCA requested the further diagnosis... hence additional hours. If FCA had just approved their initial diagnosis, it could of been completed in basically a week. By the way, I just looked under the hood and car out of curiosity, and sure enough there's a new, clean transmission sitting under that engine.

Well, 23 days after I dropped the DJ off, I finally got it back. My DJ had "total" transmission failure and was originally scheduled to get the tranny rebuilt. Luckily, after they recalculated the labor cost of doing that, they decided to just give me a new transmission (that also cut two days from the total repair time). They also replaced the transmission cooling pump to make sure all of the related components were good. Felt great on the drive home and felt great being in my car after dealing with two rentals during the repair. The process was frustrating, but after it was all said and done they took care of it all under warranty. Here's hoping for no more issues going forward Also, just want to give a shout out to Putnam Chrysler/ Dodge in Burlingame, CA for taking care of me.

I beg to differ, but a lot of it has to do with driving styles... or sitting in car styles. I've never bought Walmart's battery, but since the wifey works part time at an auto shop, I get a lot of stuff at cost, hence buying the more costly Interstate. I do know I will never buy an Auto Zone battery. Buddy of mine had a terrible time with it.