Bustamatic

Anyone have helpful info? Experience with the repair.

I'm changing out the gear oil in the rear differential of my 2012 DJ RT AWD and in the instructions it says "remove and replace sealing washer" on both drain and fill plugs. I've looked online and cant find any info on these. Has anyone dealt with this? I'm thinking some of the black gasket silicone on threads maybe?

lol. Americans always forget that out of ALL the countries in the world, only Liberia, Myanmar(Burma) and the U.S. use Imperial measure...everyone else uses metric...

Yeah, I checked all other seal and no leaks. Seems like very light seepage. I am going to check the vent as well (if possible, it's on the top)and make sure its clean to help lower the pressure when it's hot. Thanks for the advice.

2012 DJ RT 3.6L AWD. Am I right that this is the rear differential leaking? No oil on ground, just what's visible under car. Should I refill the lube if its leaking to prevent damage until I can figure out how to fix it?? I'm getting to the point of not wanting to even look at my car anymore... seems everytime I do there's a new issue...

did you ever find out if that was it? having same issue.

hey nino. heres a screenshot of the fill instructions for the 62TE transmission. I had to replace just over 5 quarts... I followed these instructions and after the initial 4 quarts(used a siphon pump), the dipstick read 10mm. I then added small amounts of fluid (with a syringe) around ten times from start up to around 70C to get it to the right level. I shifted through the gears before each read of the dipstick. Hope this helps.

Just a heads up for those attempting this. The o-ring where the filter plugs in is a real bugger to get out. Luckily it was brass so I was able top use a small flat screwdriver to lift the lip until it let go,(about 75% of the circumference of the o-ring). Also it is a fun job to get the new one back in, but patience is the key. lol

I believe the gasket will be a bead of RTV silicone around the pan edge and bolt holes... that's the way the service guy at the local Dodge dealer explained when he broke down the cost of having them do it, which is around $230 CAD. I've ordered a special dipstick as well(photo included), and will be using it with this graph and the transmission temperature display on my dash to find the right level, and spend just over $100 CAD doing it myself.

I discovered a leak on corner of transmission oil pan while performing my spring oil change. Looks like the gasket failed, possibly the pan damaged.? It seems to be coming from the corner. No symptoms when driving, and I checked the fluid condition and it could use a change but isnt terrible. My idea is to perform a transmission fluid/filter change, and have a new tranny oil pan on standby in case the pan is the issue(I can always return it if not needed.) I am just looking for any advice and a 2nd opinion on my plan. Thank you.

One last question for those more knowledgeable than I. I located what I believe is the culprit. The other actuators all move as I adjust settings...except this arm in the 3rd picture..which I am assuming is the blend door actuator. I seems stuck in that position..I tried moving it but no luck.

Thanks guys. I was almost sure, but didnt want to commit without a 2nd opinion. It looks like a pretty easy repair behind the glovebox...I was dreading a dash removal.... Thanks again guys.

2012 R/T 3.6l Dual zone ac. I need help confirming my issue. When ac on it is cold on the 2 drivers side vents, warm on the passenger side vents. The rh passenger vent seems to be the hottest. With heat on, it seems like it is hotter on passenger side than the drivers side. I can change between all modes and temperatures and they seem to change properly. I pulled fuse f139 to try to reset it but it had no effect. Would this be a faulty or misaligned blend door or actuator? Which one would cause this kind of issue. I apologize if I seem clueless, when it comes to cars I am.. trying to learn....thanks

Need some help with a problem. Driving last night and engine starts sputtering, noticeable loss of power, my OBDII app throws a P0301 code and check engine light comes on. So today I replaced the spark plug and coil(coil was 6 years/180000 old). Take it for a drive and all seems fine, no sputtering, power seems normal, but it keeps throwing the p0301 when I drive... do i need to reset the error codes after the repair or is this a sign a another issue?

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