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Posts
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John/Horace last won the day on December 18
John/Horace had the most liked content!
About John/Horace
Profile Information
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Region
Canada Ontario
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Journey's Year
2014
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jkeaton reacted to a post in a topic: 7 years of great ownership
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Forgot to respond to this post. Yes put a saddle on your Journey...and have "more happy rides on it". Hilarious. Wonder what happened to robo Johan. Did the moderator or admin nuke him? Before AI bots take over the car forum world they will have to figure out the difference between sitting in or on a vehicle, among other things. Although if it's just about activity generation of any sort; then it's mission accomplished. Maybe they can repurpose robo Johan into a better search function for the site. That would help boost traffic imo. Backing out to use the Google gets annoying.
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John/Horace reacted to a post in a topic: Bad rear end?
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Glad it helped…but it’s not really fixed. Just a bandaid to help keep car going with two wheel drive only now. Wrapping end of wire harness plug with electrical tap to protect from corrosion would be a good idea. If stuck a bit, could plug back in to maybe help get back on paved road. The banging can damage flex coupling and other awd components. Some rear diff mounts have even been sheared off. If you come cross a auto recycler with a good used viscous coupling there are posts on this site on how to swap it out.
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bdp reacted to a post in a topic: 2010 dodge journey sxt awd
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bdp reacted to a post in a topic: PTU Journey 2015
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bdp reacted to a post in a topic: Don’t buy “as is” without an inspection…even private sales.
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bdp reacted to a post in a topic: AWD Driveshaft Disassembly
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bdp started following John/Horace
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Shriram reacted to a post in a topic: Bad rear end?
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Help required ETC warning light on dash
John/Horace replied to grahamcook's topic in Electrical, Battery & Charging
Always start with checking for codes. Lightning symbol is major electrical fault detected. At times it turns out to be elec throttle body. Mainly on 2.4 engines at over a 100k miles. -
With your vin number, dealer could give you an actual part number. Then go from there. Even heated steering wheel option has an effect on getting correct part. Or look at part number on your vehicle now. Not the easiest diy job.
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Crank sensors don’t jut go bad in a few weeks. They should be closely inspecting and using a multi meter to test the wiring on the CPS sensor. It sends a signal to ecm computer to keep car running. It’s a low voltage signal and a damaged wire can creat intermittent problem. Another possibility could be reluctor ring has slipped. Is the check engine light on right now? What is a reluctor ring? The reluctor ring is mounted on the crankshaft so that as the crankshaft rotates the magnetic sensor is triggered by notches in the reluctor ring. The magnetic sensor provides position information to the electronic control module, which governs ignition timing. Magnetic sensor is the CPS crank position sensor.
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larryl reacted to a post in a topic: Help, clock spring broken
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Welcome to the site. Ouch, so the bags fired too. The site link below is the biggest on line source, I don’t work for them, but have used them for over 10 years. Their pics and info are very accurate so might be able to cross reference on the site. Aftermarket part shows $422 cdn, wow, Mopar no stock like usual. I would guess the part would be on multiple FCA products. Wreckers have their own software like Hollins for matching rims etc, try LKQ , very large cross country and cross border parts network. Even decent upull yards often can cross reference stuff pretty well. Assembly does have visible parts # sticker. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,interior,air+bag+clockspring,10480
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Great news. Viscosity of gear oil is pretty high compared to motor oil. . Even with a suction gun you need to pause a bit, allow trapped air to gurgle back up. Takes a bit of patience. On level surface, check rear diff as well, you probably have spare oil from ptu job. Oil level should be to the very top of fill hole, if warm it may even ooze out a bit. Diff also has a magnetic drain plug like ptu.
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You can remove driveshaft temporarily and still drive the vehicle. It has been done.
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2late4u reacted to a post in a topic: drivers side window/door locks
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Lots of oem stuff still not available from dealers. This switch is used in so many FCA-Stellantis vehicles I guess they had to make them. Better the switch than the door wire harness feed.
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Very important to preheat oil, hair dryer etc. Otherwise forcing in oil takes a very long time for only 800 ish ml of oil. Harbour Freight sells a suction gun that would be handy.
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There is no listing for a hangar bearing part on places like Rockauto, biggest on line site. Most drive shafts have to be bought as a full unit now. Rubber Flex coupling is available only. There are a few aftermarket shafts made. Used unit from auto wrecker is an option. New oem is very expensive and out of stock shown on Mopar Canada etc. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308
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larryl reacted to a post in a topic: Don’t buy “as is” without an inspection…even private sales.
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The oil is held in by the outer lip seal that you have. The rubber/plastic bushing I think is more of a spacer for the cv shaft end location. A transmission shop might be able to locate something like that. Or try a different dealer, no one is spending $2k instead of $20 on a bushing. Maybe lazy parts guy. Wrecking yard would be another option. They often have cars have pulled apart so access might not be bad. Could also try just changing out the lip seal you have, leave spacer bushing as is. See if it actually keeps leaking. Make sure to clean up the surface of cv shaft where inner seal runs really well with scotchbrite etc. Then put a thin film of tranny fluid on that end of shaft area before sliding shaft back in place. Rubber tears easily.
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Viscous coupler is bolted to front of rear diff and it is what triggers awd engagement. It can be replaced with rear diff staying in place on vehicle. LKQ sells used diffs, largest on line auto recycler network. Approx $500-600 hundred for a whole rear diff with lower milage. There are posts on this site with pics of this repair being done.
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Door Issues / FOB
John/Horace replied to MajorPain's topic in Alarms, Keyless Entry, Key Fobs, Locks & Remote Start
You could try removing main power on battery for 10 mins on the off chance it resets something. When my rear hatch exterior lock button stopped working for a few months. The other outside switches on both front door handles still worked. When I lost the high 3rd brake light I finally pulled apart hatch flex harness and found several broken/damaged wires and fixed both problems. Solder heat shrink…and patience. The drivers door wire harness flex section is another bad spot on Journeys. So you could also have a bad wire there or maybe there is a bad fuse feeding stuff through both harnesses. Affecting front passive entry door locks. Need to do some trouble shooting.