John/Horace

Could dump rear diff oil into a bucket and check for metal with a magnet. It’s just less than 3 litres of 75w90 oil IIRCC. Drain plug is magnetic, there is always some fur on it during dump and fill. It’s larger chunks that can be a concern. At a minimum confirm oil level is correct through fill hole.

Good point, OP might not realize there is a 3/8” square cut out for a ratchet drive to fit in on tensioner. But very tight space to work in. I use a pipe extension on small ratchet. Need some of the plastic removed to even swing a tool. Pulleys are almost right against cross member on transverse mount engines, as you know. I replaced with a RockA Gates when bearing went, then belt squeeling.

Piece of 2x4 on the oil pan and lift engine a little bit, maybe 1.5”. Helps create room for tools. A ratcheting box end wrench is helpful working in tight like that.

Damning with faint praise is the interpretation….I think. But it’s my thoughts too, capable and I would even add reliable. My brothers 2017 ram has a 3.6 with 8 speed ZF transmission and over 100k miles without any issues. Can’t tow a 30’ plus airstream trailer, does everything else fine. No hemi exhaust manifold bolts breaking or MDS cylinder deactivation issues to be had.

I assume the new bolts on rear shaft didn’t back off again ? What torque in inch pounds was finally used, curious. With awd all tires need to have close tread wear depth, same size as well. The viscous coupling is a known wear item on the rear diff. Maybe unplug the electric solenoid plug on rear diff. See if disabling its engagement changes anything. May get light on dash but still helps with trouble shooting. Easier than dropping entire shaft.

Which engine ? It’s a transmission input shaft seal.p or C/V shaft lip seal, various names used. They are around $25 shipped on Rockauto, the largest on line parts site. How many car repairs have you completed; around same difficulty as a water pump replacement. New seal can be tapped in with a very large diameter socket that is same size OD as the seal. . Specialized seal driver set not really needed if your careful. Lubricating new seal with Tran fluid is critical before new shaft is installed into tranny. A few uncommon things like a 32 mm cv shaft axle nut socket will be needed.

Search this site. People had changed the TCC torque control solenoid going through side cover. Around a $50 part. Sometimes it fixed problem.

Is this the filler neck part you mentioned. Hasn’t been changed on ours yet, I should grab one maybe. The 2013 is the older HOAT coolant so do a full flush when possible.

I have been looking after daughter in laws 2012 Journey 2.4 for about 6 yrs now. She bought it new using uncles FCA employee discount. I have driven it for a half hour a few times, yeah sluggish and fuel economy only a little better than 3.6. But good reliable transportation. And easier to work on than 3.6 by far. Use copper spark plugs if you want ; but platinum seems to work fine with no side affects. And copper no longer available cheap. CPS sensor, electronic throttle body and cooling system (both thermostats and plastic heating manifold with gaskets) were all done, common not expensive fixes. Recalls put a new cat and rack pressure line on. Hers has just over 100k miles, tranny and engine and a/c all work fine. With crazy new car prices, lower cost functional used cars are still going to be in short supply. Affecting price imo.

Yeah my Ram has the oil life monitor, Journey has a change oil warning that pops up randomly. Seems like around 7,500 miles. I keep log book with all maint and milage listed in glove box anyway. But there isn’t any program to turn on I think. Would need to add a new program to the speedo cluster. Not just enable a default function. Journey seemed like some forgotten vehicle they never updated because they were going to discontinue it. The old mitz world engine 2.4 never went to newer Tigershark 2.4, fortunely Underpowered but never an unreliable oil burner like Tigershark. In 2016 when updated 3.6 went into Ram/chargers/Jeeps etc, Journey never got it either. Last year didn’t even have 3.6.

Thermostat codes don’t prevent starting as far as I know. Not starting means turns over but doesn’t catch, correct. CPS sensor is a wear item that usually sets a code, but not always. Will crank without starting. Not expensive, around $35 for dealer part. Easy to change, one elect plug and one 10 mm bolt. First check engine compression to make sure over heating didn’t damage anything, should be around 150-165 psi.

Used cars are still pricy because of short supply. If your van buddy can do the safety seems like all the bases covered. Nothing wrong with making a few bucks.

Lots of shifters have an interlock switch that uses 12 volt battery power. So an electrical issue causing a mechanical latch to lock and prevent car from being driven. Bring car to an electrical specialist shop. Changing whole wire harness is likely not needed.

Two quarts is not a little. Maybe last change it was under filled. The plastic oil cooler/filter assembly is know to leak oil if the seals start to fail. Watch closely where it is parked for signs of oil on the ground. With the beauty cover removed shine a light down into the valley right at base of oil filter. Shouldn’t be more than a few drops of oil down there, investigate if there is a puddle starting to form. Common failure item on the 3.6 engine. Some people switch to all metal assembly.

Always start with scanning for codes. All the coolant leaking could have damaged an electrical part preventing it from starting. Or overheating could have damage the engine, need to trouble shoot problem.