John/Horace

Could also buy a battery tender or trickle charger. Needs house power so extension cord, uses very little electricity. It stays always hooked up to battery when car is sitting. Will keep battery full without damaging it. Mechanics sometimes tie wrap them in place under hood with plug poking through grill for extension cord. Not that expensive to buy. Rather than squeeze clamps, the permanent mount style use bolt on spade connectors that mount right on power connections. If you go that route you could keep your cell hands free set up working, HFM fuse still in place.

Buy a cheap assortment back of plastic Xmas tree style clips from auto parts store. They often crumble when reused. Could go auto wrecker route for bumper cover replacement and crash pad foam. . Use your paint code from drivers door to see if you can get a match. If you splice the rad cradle, you can pop rivet a few home made brackets in place. Better than sheet metal screws, don't come loose and cause rattles.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your cancer. My brother is on third go round with his, about 10 years now since the start. They are getting better with this disease, fingers crossed for you. You boosted your own Journey battery, very impressive . You seem to have done your reading on Journeys as well, smart. Newer cars with all their options tend to go through batteries. Short driving trips and sitting for weeks also tends to under charge batteries. A newer style of battery called AGM is being used on lots of cars now. It helps cover these issues. They are about $100 extra, worth considering. Same size foot print, compatible with current charging system. Last multiple times longer sitting than standard lead acid battery. In the short term there are things to do. If you can live without your cell phone working with radio. The HFM fuse should be pulled out from passenger front kick plate fuel panel. Most common source of parasitic battery drain. Very expensive to have repaired, pretty much dealer fix. Keep a charged booster pack like you have in your glove compartment. Or get an AAA membership. A bad washer pump shouldn't kill battery, but will need to be fixed. Make sure glovebox light is not staying on. Don't leave anything charging in charging outlets.

Hopefully not a twin turbo turbo V6 from 2022-23 Toyotas. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjAvfuC-eKLAxW5v4kEHZhzBEsQFnoECBIQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thedrive.com%2Fnews%2Ftoyota-will-replace-over-100000-v6-engines-in-recalled-tundras-lexus-suvs&usg=AOvVaw2Arqaz5rnjJ57LmGxTA151&opi=89978449

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2018,journey,3.6l+v6,3440326,steering,power+steering+cooler,11350 Common leak also pressure line from pump.

-12F or -24 C holy crap that's cold, block heater would help quite a bit on warm ups, save fuel too. Ours came with one, they are coiled up and hidden a bit from factory install. If you have the rear heat with the second heater core; I would keep it off until the front starts to warm up. Or tell her to leave it off all together. You didn't mention miles but a 2012 changing original stat wouldn't be a bad idea if it's over a 100k miles, coolant àlso aged out now. Do not mix hoat and oat, can create jell and wreck/plug heater cores. OAT is the newer 2013+ coolant, you are likely HOAT. Owners manual will say. Both are orangish color. HOAT is considered a superior anticorrosion coolant but pretty much discontinued. Rated life 10 yrs I think. If you flush really well you can switch to anything really. Like the OP's are saying...not enough warm up time at 1.5 miles really.

These are a very peppy V6 engine, I don't think the 4 cylinders have this problem. I know you don't want to spend more money on vehicle right now. But this is a perfect opportunity to change the cps or crank position sensor with everything apart. Several hours of labor to fix this wear item if it goes later on. Dealer OEM is recommended (on burried hard to get at parts) and I think rockauto is around $35 delivered. Get mechanics feed back, would he do the same on his own vehicle. AWD makes it extra hard to change on this vehicle.

Fenwick is about 15mins away, I'm in another sleepy little town near by. Have first and second cousins in this area, my married daughter lives near by. We are Christians but not involved with local church, just liked their sense of humour on sign. Have run blower a few time in 24 hrs, almost a foot of snow in total, my drive and widows house two doors over. Not that cold fortunately, but big drop coming. I wonder about running summer diesel in your heating system. Less kerosene content and I think more energy output. Storing more barrels and moving them around probably too much hazzle.

I grew up in a house with oil furnace and separate oil hot water heater. Large oil tank under stairs inside house, vented outside. Faster heat up than even natural gas from a cold start on the water heater. Insurance companies really jack your house rates up here if you heat with oil in my area. Oil spill clean up risk etc, this week's excuse. Natural gas has taken over, some electric heat pumps getting gov subsidies so getting more common. Ground source heat pump set up is probably lowest annual cost, but up front install investment is crazy high; very long pay back. Large house lot also needed, not always practical. My back up is a big wood fireplace with heat recovery vents and a electric fan built in. If you have good hardwood, it will heat quite well. Wood free from my brother's lot, just have to cut and haul it. Always have some on hand. Only convenient reserve gas in unfortunately 45 mins away. If visiting grand kids I have a chance to grab some each way.

My older brothers wood stove chimney stopped drawing last week. Plugged with creosote, has to clean out at least every 3 yrs. Pacific Energy stove ( new effic design)fed through an old stone fireplace with stainless liner. Has natural gas but runs as a back up because he lives on 14 acres of bush and NG is pricy. Has been waiting for a warm up to clear chimney liner. I'm glad I'm 4 hrs away to not get sucked in to help. Two story icy roof fun fun fun. We need a quick thaw. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18eVPky42k/

This side of the lake is no picnic either. I’m 25 mins from Erie and 20 from Ontario. My 10 HP small Briggs blower is getting lots of opportunities to make the snowman smile…this year. Not getting those periodic warm ups that make it more bearable.

You can check relay with multimeter, Google it. It's several sets of contacts and a coil, large amp feed contacts triggered by small amp feed contacts. Relays take the current surge when power is transfered to large draw items. Allows small wiring on all the dash switches to be used without it heating up and wearing out. My understanding anyway. I'm not an electrician or electronics tec.

It faster than 15 mins for go to sleep mode on a Journey. The HVAC dash vents cycle to vent cabin and then close, around 2 mins and should be down to very little current. Digital clock, radio memory, keyless entry etc is less than 0.5 amp like your friends car. I think it's around 180 milli amps or 0.180 amp. From remote jump spot it sends power to main fuse panel and separate feed to alternator. So you could test alternator diodes (common parasitic load when they fail) using one feed wire and bad blue tooth module (Journey most common parasitic load issue) using other feed wire. There are even fuse load testers that can be used to isolate problems to just once fuse circuit. Pic is a Harbor Freight/Princess Auto fuse load tester that has saved my ass on a few occasions. Was around $25 ish Cdn pesos.````

Heat shields coming partially loose can be noisy. Need to add screws or stainless wire to reattach.

I was looking at electrical drawing a bit more. One pin on cps is always 5 volt reference coming in from pcm, the other is the varying return signal pulse. For testing purposes I think they both get 5 volts. So those wires are probably ok it seems. It's the ground that is more important for measuring now, should have almost no resistance or ping with meter continuity test at pin 88 return. If you have the old motor still. You could try cps off that engine, won't cost anything.

Yeah, need to be careful with the pcm plug. The pins should be inspected for signs of dirt or corrosion. Isopropyl alcohol and a swab can be gently used. When reinstalling plug try to line up square, avoid bending any pins. They are designed to come apart, tolerances are there for it. Although sensors like the cps have 5 volt signals at their source, it needs to get back through the wire harness along with the ground to the pcm pins with out much drop off. Around 10% ish might be ok, but outside a certain range and stuff doesn't work right. If meter has continuity beeper setting, works great with grounds; or measure ohms resistance. Back probing, using thin wire or paper clip slid along wire going into plugs can also be done. Electrical trouble shooting can be frustrating. Low voltage signals are harder to measure and track down. I always prefer mechanical visual problems waayyy easier to figure out. Most plugs squeeze in for release, some you need to pull back slightly, always wiggle plugs with tabs pressed in. Red locking tabs that pop upwards often used by FCA and others. Small jewelry style screw driver can help release sticky plugs, gently. Cheers.

He said he already replaced the battery sensor. Maybe he didn’t clear codes since. He is not in salt belt I think, but cleaning up grounds is never a bad thing. From wiring diagram it’s a three prong plug on crank sensor. Two out of three wires you can test at the plug, ground and 5 volt reference supply are testable, the ckp return signal, a brown light blue wire to #86 pin can’t really test. Could also test complete ground path from crank sensor ground pin right back to #88 pin on pcm module for continuity and resistance.

There are two wires in the crank plug harness that feed the sensor, I assume . If it's three then one is a ground wire, which we will test later. One is the 12 ish volts from battery coming in, the other is the pulsed 5 volt signal going back to the ecm (pin 86 on ecm main connector plug). Both needed to run engine. Unplug cps plug first, then get ignition to run position, make sure one wire on cps plug is getting very close to battery voltage. Report back what voltage is. Turn off ignition, put cps plug back on the sensor again. Can't remove ecm plug to trouble shoot, ignition won't come on with plug removed. Need to do what is called a back probe. Very thin piece of wire or paper clip is used to see what voltage is. Some mechanics poke sharp meter probe through wire insulation, then dab with atv silicone afterwards. To back probe slide paper clip into cps harness plug beside each wire and get a voltage measurement with ignition on. Do same thing at 88 pin ecm/pcm end for the 5 volt output going to pin #86. If voltage is dropping through harness or bad cps plug you will see it turn up as a low or no voltage measurement at pin #86. Not hard to lose a 5 volt signal via pinched wire or dirty connection etc. Even bent pin.

You’re pics of bearing install would be nice if you have them. I found torque specs for mounting bolts on either end, still looking for hanger bearing, but it’s not as critical really. Ignore wrong pics below, actual torque specs look correct. This site keeps pushing ads into things. Dodge Journey: Electronically controlled clutch Dodge Journey Service & Repair Manual / Differential and Driveline / Electronically controlled clutch REMOVAL Fig. 95: Removing /Installing Propeller Shaft 1. Make sure transaxle is in neutral (N). 2. Raise vehicle on hoist. 3. Apply alignment index marks (4) on the rear axle flange (5) and rubber coupler (1). 4. Remove three rear propeller shaft rubber coupler to rear axle input flange retaining bolts (3). 5. Slide propeller shaft (2) back off rear axle input flange (5) and move out of the way as needed. Fig. 96: Electrical Connector At ECC 6. Unplug the electrical connector at the ECC. 7. Remove the mounting bolts at the ECC. 8. Remove the ECC. INSTALLATION Fig. 97: Electrical Connector At ECC 1. Make sure transaxle is in Neutral (N) position. 2. Raise vehicle on hoist. 3. Install the ECC. 4. Install the mounting bolts at the ECC and tighten to 60 N.m (44 ft. lbs.). 5. Connect the electrical connector at the ECC. Fig. 98: Removing /Installing Propeller Shaft 6. Align marks (4) on propeller shaft rubber coupler (1) to rear axle input flange (5). 7. Install three rear propeller shaft to rear axle retaining bolts (3) and tighten to 58 N.m (43 ft. lbs.).

Problem with CPS sensor output is that it is “ a series of repetitive electrical voltage impulses generated by a a sensor and rotating shaft”. So regular ohm meter not good enough, osiliscope or high tec scanner needed to measure. Or keep trying learn procedure on diff CPS sensors until one passes. Resistance/continuity tests on harness could help isolate too.

Better link with index. http://www.dodgia.com/

Welcome to the site. But holy dead thread batman...5 years. It was a useful discussion however. Have also had decent luck with an awd journey, 2014 RT. The key is keeping a close eye on problems that come up. Fixing or monitoring leaks that come up and not wrecking a tranny or diff or engine with low fluid. Turning a small ish repair into a major over haul. Cheers.