John/Horace

If you don’t mind Xmas tree like lights on the dash, the alt should be able to be forced to charge car. Small plug on back, exciter wire is positive, needs a fused positive feed from battery. Small negative also probably needs its own direct ground. Use power that cycles with key switch; and an inline fuse to protect new alt. Alt I think would just put out full charge at all times. This time of year not a big deal, imo. Volt regulator is internal to alt. Unplugging battery current sensor on negative battery terminal might reduce dash warning lights. Sensor has a small plug that sends ecm signal feed back. This sensor failing could even be your charging problem. Code scan might show that. Pricy part even aftermarket, good car wrecker purchase. Alarm theft system not likely shutting off engine. A low battery warning on cluster will shut down car to protect from overheating engine (cooling fans have to be functional). I’m hoping it’s current sensor on battery neg terminal that gives that signal.

Dorman aftermarket $250:from RockAuto , who I don’t work for. Just general info for visual. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,power+supply+module+(tipm),13581 P

I agree with 5rebel9 about bypassing alarm system. Almost impossible for most shops. I believe a few years ago (couldn’t find it with search function) there was somebody in your situation with similar symptoms. It was a car someone inherited from his sister, 2010 Journey with random horn honking and non start issues. They ended up buying a used auto recycler TIPM relay and swapping it removed the multiple weird problems with car. This is the kind of problem a dealer is very capable of diagnosing. But a new TIPM module will probably make your wallet bleed. So would programming two new fobs for security system, another possibility. Free advice is worth everything you pay for it. Cheers.

There are posts on this site about alarm issues in 2009-10 yrs with the keyed ignition. The fob locking the locks, arms the system. So play around to clear alarm; then don’t arm it again with fob. Manually lock driver door lock for now, can open with fob shouldn’t affect anything. Losing battery voltage may have temporarily scrambled things. May need reprogramming . TIPM module was big issue 2009-10; read up on it. Not sure if it’s tied into alarm system triggering.

Turn off the ignition and remove the key from the ignition switch. Lock all the doors using the key or remote key fob, and then close all the doors. Wait for about a minute before unlocking the driver's side door using the key or remote key fob. This should disarm the alarm system.

Wow, this sounds frustrating. I would start with having a fully charged battery in the car, low voltage can cause a lot of weird stuff to happen on these cars. It sounds like the original alternator may actually have been ok; unless the second alternator ( was it new or remanufactured) is also a dud. The oem unit is Nippodensa , one of the best manufacturers or electrical parts, imo. The bms systems in cars are pretty involved. They are tied into the battery ground current sensor on battery ground clamp and ecm. Lots of codes like low battery level etc can turn up in obd system. What codes are showing up right now? The alarm system I think is bigger problem. Do you have a second fob or key to start car. Cycling drivers door lock with key I think twice should clear alarm on most dodge vehicles.

And I quote … “Ensure the chosen vehicle aligns with everyone’s satisfaction.” Although technically proper english, almost no one normally speaks like this. But the ChatGPT or Chatbot what ever, is getting better. Robo-Johan has almost the same reputation rating as me. I wonder if I should even bother posting anymore. ? And the chatbot apps unlike the rest of us…are getting paid, some how, hilarious.

https://www.autocodes.com/p06dd_dodge.html There is a dealer ecm flash update for 2015-2017 Journey for nuisance oil pressure codes mentioned. The poster from United Arab Emirates might have a issue getting update done. Even if pressure is ok, the codes might still trigger limp mode type issues. Pressure sensor harness is underneath intake manifold between the cylinder heads on the oil cooler assembly. Lots of heat there, oil if it seeps a bit. Horrible place for access and wire trouble shooting.

https://www.autocodes.com/p06dd_dodge.html

Did battery actually get to full charge. Most chargers will show battery level, some even show %. Should be around 12.5-13 volts if full. At -45 C a lead acid battery at full charge still only has half its cranking amps. Check connections on new battery. Should not be able to twist top terminals with a gloved hand. A boost from a running car or truck slightly reving will add a lot of cranking amps.

Lots of power options on newer cars now. Alt work harder imo. Mine went at 90k miles or 145k kilometres with the burning electrical smell and voltage fluctuations. Low battery warning on cluster came on, ecm disabled radio and various other accessories so electric cooling fan would be the last thing to lose power. Drive pulley torque decoupler has bearings inside; can be cause of some early failures. Fuel economy feature I believe. After 2015 ish there was a plastic top guard that mounted on top of alternator. Even oem remanufactured unit from dealer ( with a two year warranty) comes with the plastic guard and hardware. It prevents oil from dripping on hot alt and causing a fire hazard. Valve cover could easily leak in this manner. I was happy to get this upgrade item with the dealer reman unit; at a lower price than other aftermarket reman units. In stock with a refundable core charge. A few alt failures but almost no starter motors documented on this site. Starter looks like a bear to get at, so be happy it was alt. New trumps reman always; but price difference can be huge.

From the google… P000A is stored when the actual position of the camshaft differs from the position that the PCM expects during camshaft phase changes. The “A” in code P000A refers to the intake camshaft. The “B,” on the other hand, refers to the exhaust camshaft Dirty or low oil can trigger cam shaft codes. Lightning bolt symbol like luzia is saying is usually expensive electronic throttle body. Mechanics have a hand held obd analyzer that can cycle sensors to isolate if it’s a sensor, wire harness etc. Avoids top 10 guess method.

Welcome to the site. Push button start very sensitive to getting full 12 volts to function. Battery warmer pad rather than block heater would probably help. Need a very strong battery at your temps, if it’s more than 3 yrs old or alternator weak you will have problems. Cranking amps on battery and voltage output from alt need checking. BMS systems on newer cars might get in way where you are; sees low voltage from cold and interprets as draw from item left on. Shuts system down. Sensor right at negative terminal of battery I think sends signal to pcm. Key fob has driver door lock key built in. Little tab releases key. May have to lube with deicer etc first time used. If fob battery dead or low, press end of fob against start button directly. Use it to cycle button, signal gets picked up. Portable lithium booster packs , biggest you can find , helpful this time of year.

Find out who gets the revenue from all those flash and banner ads. Tell them to hop to it. Or pay for moderator bots. ?

People get stuck and get carried away, burn up the silicon/oil. Clutch plates get damaged and seals start leaking. Subaru forums say it’s usually 1,000,000 (cst) PolyDimethylSiloxane fluid in most vc diffs. Not much fluid 50-80 ml maybe, measure accurately what comes out if possible. Could be half black paste and not meaureable. Getting Mopar fluid would help odds of successful fix. Pic is of a Subaru vc . Fluid should last life of vehicle I think; if not abused. My 3 vc vehicles have never needed it changed. Although Jeep np249 transfer case was causing hopping at 200k miles. Needed it.

No not at all. Very simple awd system that will allow one wheel on each axle to get you a little farther in bad conditions than just front wheel drive(single wheel). Can’t even force on back wheels with over ride switch, so no off roading should ever be attempted. Ground clearance also not enough for off road driving. You can probably get stuck on wet grass with this vehicle if you have bad luck and minimal driving skills. It’s a system designed to allow you to keep control in minor snow ice or mud ; on existing normally maintained roads. Your AI algorithm has good platitude setting; need to tweak tec comprehension…badly. JohanBot.

ESL speak with no grammar or punctuation, or just bad AI coding. Can’t tell.

What are the Possible Causes of the DTC P2173 Dodge. Large Vacuum Leak Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Throttle Position (TP) Sensor ⚠ D Some map sensor failures have been documented on site, $30 part. Need to diagnose problem.

Good oil pressure, so driving a few days shouldn’t matter with intermittent noise IMO. It wouldn’t be changing a few rockers arms on the front cams. At $10 ish each mechanic will likely change them all. But if you also change front cam (s) then timing chain, hydraulic tensioner, all front covers etc all coming off. Can’t reset timing other wise. Chain tensioner shouldn’t be reused but replaced, $200 ish part etc. So lots of work. Just changing rockers isn’t a half assed repair. If there is minimal wear and you can leave cams in place you wallet shouldn’t bleed much and engine might last as long as you need. I agree with poster tsteve5 on this approach. The well know hemi tick on the V8 5.7 engine is similar problem. Wear issue maybe caused by MDS cylinder deactivation set up ( forced fuel economy tec) or oil flow to top end. No one really knows why, but changing rockers and cams often needed. Ram forum has thousands of posts talking about it. Only affects some vehicles; not always linked to lack of maintenance. Good luck with repair, bad time after Xmas for big expenses.

Bottom end issues I think has more of a knock to it, hollow sound. Great advice on cheap mechanics stethoscope. Had one for years. The serpentine belt can be removed and engine run for 20-30 seconds. Eliminates most noises but may generate a few engine codes. No water pump running so don’t push time factor. If necessary wait a while and do a second quicki test. Like OP is saying. Need to address right away to avoid cam damage if that’s the issue. Removing cams means chain and tensioner and front of engine all apart. Huge labor costs, engine swap usually cheaper. Make sure oil pressure on cluster is in proper range when noise is present on hot engine. How many miles on engine?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=5184296ah

The last post has to be some kind of AI robot crap. It completely ignores the mention of $2k + expensive rattling top end engine problem. There is no testament to good maint and reliability bla bla bla. I’m sure owner is not happy at all at only 100k mikes for this type of expense. To actually answer his question, which johanbrandon clearly didn’t. There are a few docuemented cases of this with the 3.6 engine, on this site, but it is not a commmon issue at all, especially at your low milage. I would try switching to a Mopar filter and new top grade oil immediately, see if sound changes. Maybe even high milage 5W30 oil considering your location. They don’t usually just start loud ticking. Top end wear slowly increases and sound level follows.

Airbag clips, always a little crazy. Kinda on topic IMO. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwixqLf6u86DAxVuOTQIHZFSAKEQz40FegQICxAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DFhg4S2IYSzQ&usg=AOvVaw0hkK2n7JObbZbdnfDO1Tby&opi=89978449

Highly unlikely they will be plug and play. If part numbers were the same, you could chance it. But with airbags and other critical stuff tied in to wire harness, maybe not a good idea to play with that. In most countries the insurance companies would void your policy coverage so fast…your head would be spinning. In an accident situation.

The fuse box configuration determines which fuses are on keyed or continuous power. So the wires leaving a keyed power outlet fuse would have to be rerouted to a spare fuse slot that has continuous power set up. And vice versa. It’s doable but would need to be done properly with solder and heat shrink and proper gauge wire. It’s temping to just pig tail off the nearest existing wires. But you don’t want to overload circuits with unknown power loading. Usually not enough wire to just remove one connection from back of fuse and feed into another fuse. Automotive wire harness has very little built in slack imo.