John/Horace

There are updates available for uconnect. Takes some computer skills to follow it through. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

The plastic push connectors only have an oring doing the seal, as you have probably figured out. . Sometimes just reseating them will stop a drip. They are used on all the newer cars with plastic lines. A new oring might be available from the dealer if you have to change it.

They are listing collapsed length as 86”, so it must have a sliding section or the rubber flex disc can be slid out. Or droop when hanger bearing bracket removed allows enough movement on flange ends. Mitchel mechanic site will give torque specs and other info with a paid log in. USA STANDARD GEAR ZDS101745 Rear Drive Shaft Info Rear; AWD; Collapsed Length of 86 in. measured from flange to flange, Including rubber flex disc

Taper bearings are usually sold as a set with a race, I believe. People often pick up a good used unit from LKQ etc. The vc coupling are a wear item, if car high milage I would just get a whole diff unit. Side seals on diff also wear out, hard to change in place pulling drive shafts.

I have seen belts that have same number be slightly different length, but auto tensioner takes care of the variation. Make sure the spring is fully compressed on automatic tensioner.

Welcome. I used NGK irredium plugs, ,work great no issues. If it’s wheel bearing it will get much louder pretty quickly. My first wheel bearing went at 205k kms, passenger front. Not hard to change.

The heat shields underneath are cheaply made and the fasteners fail. Need some large fender washers and self tapping screws. The awd driveshaft has several of these shields.

Badly installed remote start can leave a mess. They never solder connections but use endless black tape. Usually just removing the add on units fuses or main plug into the starter electronics unit decouples it. Doing live may have created issues. Try carefully with out arcing against anything, to remove positive battery terminal for 5 mins. Could even do the remote jump start feed from battery, will kill all power. The fuse box in passenger side kick panel has a lot of fuses to check if they aren’t blown. PCM units are very tough, rarely fail. They don’t run on 12 volts, but are usually stepped down to 8 I believe. Protects them quite a bit. Probably still some extra wiring tied to harness; check brake pedal switch for something added on.

Always start with scanning for codes. Even if check engine light is not on. Which engine, milage ? Bad shaft would clunk but still likely allow car to move. Transmission related item most likely.

Between the flanges looks like a standard flat flange exhaust gasket. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836

There is several posts on site about doing that. Just use search function. Need to remove drive shaft and I think people unplug the electrical plug on the rear diff. It’s the signal that turns on the rear wheel drive. You can sell drive shaft, don’t throw away they are worth $500 ish new. No stub shaft to worry about on front ptu or rear diff. Both will stay sealed. Just keep oil in them.

They often upgrade part numbers, common thing, yeah Mopar is oem. Several cdn on line sites with 15-25% off, can also pick the ordered part at a dealer they specify. Better than paying full list if you just walk in. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/90959564/05033307AE.html Or best on line site I have used, Rockauto who also sell the oem and use the part # you listed. Reasonable shipping as well. They can ship up north in days usually. Can find 5% discount code for their website as well on retail me not, etc. Extra small items usually won’t increase shipping cost. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2012,journey,2.4l+l4,1502335,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196 If the plugs have more than 60k kilometres, change them out for sure. Dump the k&n filter as well. Can get used plastic intake from wrecker if they chopped up plastic parts; not expensive.

Nice work. Even if the flanges are rotten, there are split two piece flanges you can use. Walker etc make them. A sawzall can be used to saw nuts off when flanges are flat design. Exhaust on V6 engines are crappy to work on.

Same cylinder misfire, if it moved to other one then coil is bad. Like OP said, you need to trouble shoot. Bad gas, intake manifold gasket., low compression, etc etc. Try a throttle body recalibration procedure, google it. Injectors rarely fail.

Catalyst efficiency code po420 , down stream O2 sensor triggers this when it’s not happy. Upstream O2 adjusts fuel trim and is more important since it affects fuel economy. How many miles on the spark plugs.? Bad coil can also cause misfire code. Injectors rarely fail. Even bad gas can cause cylinder misfire. I always start with a tank of super gas.

Was it a new or used BT module you installed. I would again pull fuse for the bt in the passenger side kick panel, see what draw is after 2-3 mins with key off, door closed. It’s most common parasitic draw on Journeys. Could also check glove box light is off, nothing plugged in all 5 charging ports. Bad diode in alternator might cause draw. Try unplugging it or removing alt fuse and measuring draw again. Image upside down is usually camera going bad. Has been a few posts about it on forum. The limp mode wasn’t the tcs switch, it was a flaky abs sensor triggering it.

Even if no mil light, scan for codes. Electronic throttle body can cause stalling but will usually set a code.

I removed full liner. This tool good for those push in tree style fasteners. Listle brand around $5-6 bucks. Small jewellery screw driver or pic for the lock tabs on plugs. Some push in, others need to be lifted, finicky. Fragile. I unbolted first, then removed elect plugs after looking at how locking tab worked.

The rear calipers have an issue with the parking brake mechanism starting to drag at around 100k miles. They start to not release fully and you can feel them drag when turning rotor by hand. You can tap the locking lever back easily and free up to drive temporarily. But the return spring is not strong enough and they will continue to drag when you start using parking brake again. I even changed one parking brake cable thinking it was causing lever to not return. I’m about to change second set of calipers with this same problem on daughter in laws 2012 (only one dragging but will change both). Both cars are the bigger rotors. Which are better functioning than the under size set up. New rather than reman calipers might be the better option to fix this issue long term. I used reman on the 2014 and had to put bigger springs on caliper return mechanism within a month to stop dragging again. Ok now at year two. Seems to be a Mopar design flaw IMO. Or a maintenance problem caused by living in salt belt.

It’s probably the viscous coupler. They start to bind and cause the bang noise. The rear drive shaft can be removed to completely disable the rear drive system. Should get rid of all noises. It is triggered to come on by 12 volt power signal, but it starts to bind even when not activated. Check rear diff oil level and front ptu and maybe do a dump and fill to look for metal filings. The delay between wheels when turning by hand is normal. Rear diff can start to leak 75w90 oil from side seals. Most people end up with a rear diff with viscous coupling as an assembly from a auto wrecker. Coupler can be separated and only used with your existing differential if it’s still ok. Buying coupler new from dealer is very pricy.

With the ethanol content in gas getting higher, gasoline ages out much quicker. Try to run ethanol free or add injection cleaner or fuel conditioner once a year maybe. Brake fluid is also time related not just kilometres; fluid absorbs water gradually. Anything less than 5 yrs is probably a waste of money. When a brake job is being done ask them to flush all the lines and reservoir. Adds very little cost to a brake job.

It’s not exactly small, has a large heat sink so needs ventilation. Like power amps. The guy who has done the most interior work on this site is Locosiete. Maybe pm him, he will probably know.

Needs trouble shooting if battery and or alternator are bad. Low voltage can cause all sorts of weird dash lights, normal. If battery is more than 5 years old I would probably just change it. Always charge a new battery before install. When it’s running check what voltage alt is putting out. Should be 13.5-15 ish volts with several accessories running.

Curious about rear upper control arms $1,200. Was that all three rear components lower lateral link, trailing arm and lower lateral arm. And alignment. Or was strut also included. Mopar suspension stuff is pricy.

Could unplug battery for an hour, reseat sensor plug again,. On slim chance it does something. Scan for codes again.