John/Horace

I think you need the wiring diagram for the safety switches under the hood as well. There will be a low pressure and high pressure cut out switch to protect the system components. You need a gauge to see what the pressure is to confirm if one of these switches is bad…or doing it’s job. Even a cheap gauge attatched to one of those refill kits. If a blockage is forcing off system, jogging compressor can blow a line or maybe burn up clutch. But I’m sure you know that.

Yeah I agree, good value and reliable enough for the price. A lot of the similar size SUV’s have serious flaws that make them too expensive to own. Lots of pretty looking, nice features vehicles you don’t really want to have long term. No cvt, or turbo, or servo drive electric power steering etc to cost $2k to repair on the Journey. Some times simple and practical is good…especially if your the mechanic fixing it. I had the first year of Grand Cherokee in 1993 , with the V8. Bought it used after owner got tired of fixing it. Although we it on the road up to 200k. A lot of unusual break downs. Could barely keep refrigerant in hvac system. It was my second and last Jeep. Son in law has the new Bronco Sport. Very noisy compared to Journey, but lots of fancy tec. Seems slow compared to journey, it’s the 1.5 turbo 3 cylinder model. Higher step in height for some people, not great.

Forget what I said about intake gaskets, yours is a four cylinder so doesn’t apply really. My daughter in law has a 2.4 journey 2012. Even when new they are a little under powered. She also had the new cat installed by the recall. Make sure you have the exact correct specified copper core plug in the engine. They have to be changed every 30k-ish miles, but copper is the hottest spark plug and it’s possible (if compression is in spec) that it’s wrong plug causing the misfire issue. With a bent valve they probably put a rebuilt head on the engine. Valve cover gasket is your big oil leak, will need doing soon. Not expensive.

Welcome to forum. Engine was rebuilt how, cylinder head, cams, bottom end ? No warranty left on their work I guess. In take manifold gasket’s should be replaced when plugs are done, they can stay compressed if reused. Can cause misfires. Compression numbers would be useful. Unfortunelty cam or cylinder head issues can often point to random misfire issues. Stuff like injectors and coils don’t go often, would give corresponding codes. If compression is still good, maybe inspect cats anyway.

I like to use oem when I can and price is only 15-20% more. Usually guaranteed fit and slightly better quality. Rockauto sells lots of oem stuff and decent price, Mopar was out of stock so I bought the Dorman item. My egr was already allowing oil residue to leak on side of engine. But no codes were showing up, around 180k kms. Changed it last year and haven’t had any issues. Its a rotary style valve so kinda unusual design, not like the static one in the utube video. Probably more prone to wearing out. . It’s driven by cam shaft. Not hard to change really. Lots of on line sites, can pick up at a dealer and save 30%. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/ https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/

From Ram forums. The only tire-related test available under the BCM in AlfaOBD is Program Tire Size. However, there's a whole Tire Control function that you can select from the main menu, that offers the following procedures: Program Left Front Tire Sensor ID (same for RF) (same for RR) (same for RL) Sensor Rolls Test Activate TPM High GFain Mode Reset VIN Values

CPS very tricky to test, maybe with an oscilloscope. Electronic lab equip that mechanics don’t have. Scanner often will show a CPS code, but not always. $30 part for oem. It,s can becconsidered a wear item after 100k or so, on some cars. Heat and vibration eventually affects part. A loose starter can be tested on the ground with a battery and jumper cables and a screw driver. Power connections arced out with screw driver to engage solenoid and motor.

Starting point is always codes. Starter can be bench tested and tec can also jumper starter relay base connections to by pass all security stuff like transmission range selector, key security and even push button. If lightly tapping starter with rubber mallet makes it work, contacts/springs in solenoid bad, new or rebuilt starter needed. Find a shop that diagnoses and doesn’t just guess at things.

CPS crank sensor can do random no start , sometimes without storing a code.

What’s the milage on the car. Has it had other major repairs. How long are you planning on keeping it.?

Aluminum rims you should always retorque after 30 miles or so. Owners manual even states that. Sometimes there are more than one socket size options with the correct thread size nut. It’s nice to match the factory tire iron wrench if possible. So you don’t have to buy a different wrench. In salt belt areas I think the two piece nuts are even worse, seems to swell the chromed sleeve so socket won’t fit. Or impact gun distorts nut. These nuts often only last 3-4 years. My son has a Journey and a Ford Fusion, both needed replacement. I put one drop of oil on the lug threads, helps prevent seizing a bit.

Need to get a scanner and check for codes or go to auto parts store with free scans. Some codes like abs will disable cruise control function. If it’s intermittent like a faulty wheel sensor then it will randomly disable cruise before resetting itself. Wiper issue may not be caused by new battery, just coincidence. Once again, code is the starting point, parts throwing gets expensive. Wipers in some cars tied to awd activation. Front bearings have abs sensor build in, so rear sensor more likely the issue for cruise.

No market for a high milage Land Rover. Nice sheet metal design and interior not enough. https://www.theautopian.com/auction-sites-bring-a-trailer-and-cars-and-bids-rejected-my-land-rover-and-i-dont-blame-them/

What codes are still showing up. In overdrive , 4th gear is when a bad plug or coil will be more noticeable. Copper spec plugs do run the hottest and wear out the fastest.

Wow that’s weird. Almost going into limp mode but not really. What is year and milage of car. The only common 2.4 engine issue with idle and power problems is the electronic throttle body. Normally a lightning bolt symbol is one of the symptoms and usually codes. Plastic gears inside get worn and start to stick. Hitachi makes the oem replacement. How about cleaning up the grounds on both strut towers. Instead of a low voltage issue, could be a bad ground. This is a problem even dealerships would struggle with. Schematics and an ecm pin out diagram needed for trouble shooting, Mitchell on line login. Some people have had abs controller issues. They are on back order from dealers I think. Not a cheap part to throw at a problem like a map sensor. There was a recall for plug problem from water leaks.

You have really covered all the usual issues, it seems. No codes is the most odd thing. As you know, drive by wire cars controlled by very low voltage signals from throttle and pedal sensor to ecm. May have to wait for it to get a bit worse and trigger a code. Something is running right on the edge. Reseat the plugs again to throttle body, pedal, map, etc. I hate parts throwing at cars, but on cheap wear items like CPS or map sensor I sometimes do.

Nice, Good scanners used. Were the old compressed intake manifolds seals reused when plugs were changed. Its better to change them , small air leaks can create cylinder misfire, maybe idle issue. Vac leaks can be tricky to find even with puffer. Does turning on a/c increase engine idle speed, curious.

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No codes on your scanner. Dealer or better high end scanner might see codes. Some scanners only show basic obd codes. Must be sensor that turns on vac pump I guess.

Codes scan first, MAP sensor maybe. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2013,journey,3.6l+v6,1505070,exhaust+&+emission,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207

Found a decent link talking about stripped head bolt repairs. Helicoil is mentioned as not as good as time sert thread repair on aluminum blocks. But you need to have enough extra space for that style of repair. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/torquing-head-bolts.1287951/

I’m pretty sure the bolts are torque to yield, so not reusable, here is a pasted clip from parts site. Torque-to-yield bolts are designed so that they can be elongated beyond their elastic limit into the plastic region without problems. When a specific tightening torque has been reached, the bolts are turned further through a defined angle, which pre-loads them into the plastic region. Consequently, no retorquing is necessary. Although it is a very effective means to get the maximum, uniform clamping load from each bolt, it permanently distorts the bolts, preventing them from being reusable under any circumstance. Check with machine shops, but I don’t think he’ll-coils are good enough for cylinder head bolts. Too many heat cycles and the huge amount of labor rebuilding motor makes it not worth the risk. Get a reman long block or short block or better yet a complete good wrecker engine. They are a common engine used in a lot of vehicles. LKQ or other reputable company. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. Cheers.

Remote battery is the 3volt lithium battery, one in each remote. Can test with a multi meter, 5 yrs is longer than they usually last IMO. New they are 3.3 volts, some cars they will work at even less than 3 volts. The tire sensors also have lithium battery, that can’t be replaced, only whole sensor. Battery voltage often drops with temperatures, could have been triggered this winter. Can bus is very sensitive and phantom codes can turn up, could just clear them and see if they return. During start up on a cold day main 12 volt battery voltage also drops a lot when cranking, could have also caused codes.

Welcome to the site. Looks like 100 foot pounds. If you use the very awkward search program it will come up with this chart. Front suspension: DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Shield 10 7 89 Crossmember Mounting Bolts 135 100 — Crossmember Reinforcement Bracket Mounting Screws 50 37 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 48 35 — Hub Nut 160 118 — Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 95 70 — Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt 175 129 — Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Bolt Nut 145 107 — Stabilizer Bar Cushion Retainer Screws 60 44 — Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 48 35 — Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 140 103 — Strut Rod Nut 60 44 — Strut-to-Tower Nuts 55 41 — Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 — Tie Rod End Knuckle Nut 85 63 — Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100

TC light can come on from abs sensor issue. Code would show which wheel is an issue. If ETC light means the lightning bolt symbol , that points to electric stepper motor on the throttle assembly. Should be stored code as well. Try calibration procedure first. Super gasoline is for trouble shooting as well.