John/Horace

Welcome to the forum. If son in law used meter properly, you might only have 8 volts to run a 12 volt bulb. Bad connection some where that needs tracing. Can be time consuming. But not always, does plug on bulb have good tight connections ? Led bulbs have a tendency to flash if not used with a load resister. They do use less current (amperage) but still need 12 volts of power to function properly. Can create other issues and waste money. LED’s not cheap to buy. If there is a an automotive electrical place you can find, they are better than typical mechanics on this type of problem. Will find problem much quicker. Often they advertise as installing remote starters, alarm systems, stereos etc.

Welcome to the site. Is it showing blower in turned on in display on dash. ? Here is a link for a no power at blower plug issue., linked to other problem. Need a diagram to start tracing things back. Left front clearance lights won't go off. By dhenderhan, July 23, 2020 in Electrical, Batt

Run the new battery on a charger before the install. They often are dry charged, so not a real full charge. Clean up any connections that you can, shiny is good, light coat of dielectric grease is helpful. Check the voltage at alternator small plug before starting car. Alternator needs full battery voltage 12.3-12.7 to produce full amperage to run car. If it doesn’t get that, alternator can’t do it’s job. Wire harness feed has an issue, not very common problem.

He needs to scan for codes again. Gas pedal sensor can send lots of codes, p2127, p0222, p0123 etc. No limp mode or idling issues mentioned that pedal sensor often causes. If only lightning symbol, could even be wiring harness only issue.

If the alt has over a 100k , change it. It may have to run a bit and heat up before the rectifier bridge or capacitors start to act up. Mine would put out power for 5 mins before it stopped putting out enough power to run vehicle. Mechanical parts like bearings etc are also worn. If battery has less than 300 cranking amps, change that too. It’s on the way out. Towing is not cheap.

ETC has little plastic internal gears. They get worn and start to stick eventually. Hitachi makes the oem, RockA sells it, new better than reman stuff, usually. Cleaning first like OP said, good starting point. It is a wear item and some point will need changing.

Welcome to the site. I hope you didn’t do that in one visit. How many miles on the vehicle.? Reset the code and see if it comes back. If work was done by a shop, bring it back. Some parts can fail right out of the box, China could have had a bad day. Bad coil or plug on cylinder 4. Were new gaskets used on the plastic intake manifold when changing rear plugs. Gaskets can compress, reusing not always the better option. Extra air into cylinder can cause misfire. Along with a lot of other things.

I am confident the fuel level switch and code are not preventing the engine from turning over. A 12 volt test light on the starter motor small wire plug, would show if push button is always sending a signal when pushed.

There are a few safety switches that need to work for car to turn over and engine to actually run. Next no start (turn over) try putting car in neutral and see if it starts. Transmission range selector switch when in park or neutral provides a ground for the starter relay to engage. A bad starter solenoid can be intermittent. Sometimes working and other times not. Worn internal contacts and springs. The starter relay under hood can be manually jumpered with a piece of wire across the two contacts 85 and 87 on the fuse box base when relay plugs in. If it still clicks then it is clearly a starter issue. This test bypasses all safety switchs and the push button start.

Welcome to the site. How many miles/kilometres on vehicle. Click with no start and proper battery volatage (12.7) would usually be a starter issue. Jump starting with cables shows it’s probably not your battery. Could try to confirm with a multi meter. When key is turned all the way to engage starter, the small wire at the starter should have battery voltage signal that is sent by the key switch. Could even confirm that with 12 volt test light. The click sound probably means the starter is getting this signal and solenoid on starter is worn. If light tap on starter with mallet makes it work a few more times, another sign it’s bad contacts inside solenoid on starter. So new or rebuilt starter assembly needed.

If the wires are clearly marked and you know polarity. Unhook battery for 10 mins to discharge all stored power. Don’t want to accidentally trigger airbags. Then solder and heat shrink broken wires. Hook up battery again. May have to clear codes to get rid of light, although 20 start cycles might clear it.

F131 in passenger front fuse panel shuts down blue tooth.

Welcome to the forum. Check main 125 amp fuse in box under hood., if not blown, could have greeny connection. You may have more than one problem. Could even be a major ground cable and not power,feed. Check remote jump starting connectors under hood, it also feeds fuse box, clean up connections, power and ground. Volts measurement is general info, pull battery and get it load tested, need 150-200 amps to start a car. Jumping can be iffy with cheapo cables. Push button has its own fuse in passenger front mounted under the dash. It is a small push in fuse, #F121 rated 15 amp. There are a few spare fuses labeled as such in the box. Good luck.

The code is listed as a lost or intermittent signal from the cam sensor. So wire harness could be damaged from where sensor plug is all the way to where it feeds into ecm. They recommend soldering wire if it needs splicing. A weak battery can also cause the code. Worn cam would probably give a different code. This is listed as an electrical problem code.

Crap, thought it might be the …issue. My daughters in laws 2.4 journey CPS died well before your 160k miles. It’s a common failure wear item. It would have cut off spark to plugs. Tricky to trouble shoot. Mechanics have a little spark testing tool. Easiest way to test spark without that is to remove one of the four spark plug coils, put a spark plug in the boot location (if you have no spare you can remove the one under the coil you removed) plug the wire harness power plug back on coil. Then lay the metal thread part of spark plug on the cleanest metal surface you can find on engine or near by under hood. Have someone turn the ignition key while you watch closely the spark plug electrode gap for a small blue spark. Could use a heavy glove to hold the plug coil so spark plug stays with decent contact with engine metal surface. Glove helps avoid shock, very low amps but it would give a decent shock. Easier to see the blue spark in the dark. If there is no spark, we could be dealing with a TIPM module issue. (Power module which controls elect system in car, black box made of plastic with fuses inside ) But there are usually others things like signals going bythemselves, random horn honks etc also happening before random no starts. Module could be reseated and even by passed with a few jumper wires to prove it’s the issue. A bypass wire kit is sold fairly cheap. Some people buy a used wrecker module, they are pricy.

Definitely a weird problem, Had a Taurus years ago with a a strange small coolant loss problem for quite a while. No air going in and no visible leak. A few months later I swapped out all the cooling system clamps with new gear clamps. Leak fixed, one old gear clamp was stripped and although screw was tight, hose could easily slide off. At idle there was no drip; had to rev up engine to make a tiny drip. Hoses were also older and not very flexible as well. Maybe check every hose connection with a tug/twist. Look for a poor hose connection. Cooler hoses might be tricky to check on drivers side, underneath. Low heat on passenger side I think is a separate item. Pull the filter behind the glove box so you can clearly see the blender actuator on the right side. They have a tendency to stick sometimes. Closed and your windows fog, open and the fresh cold air causes heat loss. Each time car is turned on and off, it cycles to vent car interior. If it doesn’t do this , poke at it to free it up. It needs to be closed for proper passenger heat. Very awkward access to screws to change out actuator.

Great links from Alldata. Even bad fuel can cause an issue like this, syphoning fuel can be a pain. Compare resistance values of the old and new CPS sensors. Failure Modes A failed crankshaft position sensor or code indicating that the signal does not correlate with the other engine position sensors, can be both mechanical and electrical. The mechanical problems can relate to the condition of the teeth on the reluctor ring. If a tooth is missing, it changes the signal. If the ring has shifted position on the crankshaft, the signal will not correspond with the camshaft position sensor. The other mechanical issue could be the fault of the timing chain. If the chain has stretched, the signals will not match and the engine management system will set a code.

FCA added a plastic alternator top guard after around 2015. Earlier models with original alt could still be an issue. But three alternators is crazy, reman stuff is not as good as brand new usually. . Curious what they are they putting out when first installed.

Put on parking brake so it doesn’t roll away. Don’t touch brake pedal, press start button twice to run position, you should then be able to shift range finder to neutral position. Neutral start is usually tried when starter is not engaging at all. Yours is turning over so it probably won’t help much. You probably have no fuel going to engine. Fuel pump not coming on, or spark plugs not getting power. If you have a second key fob, try using it inside car. Security system can sometimes disable fuel or spark causing no start. Usually the gauge cluster will give some kind of warning. Scanning for codes instead of guessing and throwing parts it often the better option. But if I was parts throwing, a CPS crank position sensor , a $30 electrical part wear item would be at the top of the list. About 15 mins labor. Sometimes fails without storing fault codes in cars computer. Disables fuel and or spark to engine because no timing signal for engine to function. A the temp you mentioned. I wonder about a frozen gas line preventing fuel flow. If you can’t get car inside a heated garage. Put a small bottle of isopropyl alcohol in the fuel tank, wait an hour and try starting it again.

Usually when you try to start a fuel injection car, about 2 seconds after turning key you should hear the fuel pump at the rear tank come on and pressurize the fuel system, then shut off. If you have fan, radio, heated seats, all electrical turned off, you should hear the electrical fuel pump come on for a few seconds with car in accessory position. If you don’t hear the pump there are a few things that can prevent it coming on. Try starting car in neutral is first suggestion, transmission park/neutral switch if flaky can disable the fuel pump. Usually a few hundred dollar repair. If that doesn’t work I would guess at CPS sensor being bad (around a $30 part plus 20 mins install). Scanning for fault codes from the cars computer with an obd11 scanner is the normal staring point with car problems. But CPS doesn’t always trigger a code and the yellow check engine light, when it fails. Is the che k engine light on the dash lite right now??

Which engine, how many miles on it. Smoke is from something arcing out possibly. Check all fuses to see if one is blown. Fuel, spark, compression, timing , all come in to play. Starter spray, sprayed into intake throttle body should make car fire a bit, eliminate a few variables. If it’s a 3.5 engine, was timing belt ever replaced yet.?

Starting the year off right with a beetle posting. Funny part is the article author talking about 1950’s beetle electronics, like they existed. Possibly not one of their technical writers on this one. Peoples comments, are better than the journalism. https://jalopnik.com/the-vw-beetle-could-come-with-an-ancient-in-car-coffee-1849915487

Most auto wreckers have a few Journeys hanging around. If you can match the color, another option for a messed up seat.

Battery current sensor. I don’t work for these guys, best jpeg’s that copy easily. Could bypass and confirm it’s issue. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2017,journey,3.6l+v6,3434428,electrical,battery+current+sensor,13536