John/Horace

I’m pretty sure the bolts are torque to yield, so not reusable, here is a pasted clip from parts site. Torque-to-yield bolts are designed so that they can be elongated beyond their elastic limit into the plastic region without problems. When a specific tightening torque has been reached, the bolts are turned further through a defined angle, which pre-loads them into the plastic region. Consequently, no retorquing is necessary. Although it is a very effective means to get the maximum, uniform clamping load from each bolt, it permanently distorts the bolts, preventing them from being reusable under any circumstance. Check with machine shops, but I don’t think he’ll-coils are good enough for cylinder head bolts. Too many heat cycles and the huge amount of labor rebuilding motor makes it not worth the risk. Get a reman long block or short block or better yet a complete good wrecker engine. They are a common engine used in a lot of vehicles. LKQ or other reputable company. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. Cheers.

Remote battery is the 3volt lithium battery, one in each remote. Can test with a multi meter, 5 yrs is longer than they usually last IMO. New they are 3.3 volts, some cars they will work at even less than 3 volts. The tire sensors also have lithium battery, that can’t be replaced, only whole sensor. Battery voltage often drops with temperatures, could have been triggered this winter. Can bus is very sensitive and phantom codes can turn up, could just clear them and see if they return. During start up on a cold day main 12 volt battery voltage also drops a lot when cranking, could have also caused codes.

Welcome to the site. Looks like 100 foot pounds. If you use the very awkward search program it will come up with this chart. Front suspension: DESCRIPTION N·m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs. COMMENT Brake Shield 10 7 89 Crossmember Mounting Bolts 135 100 — Crossmember Reinforcement Bracket Mounting Screws 50 37 — Hub And Bearing Mounting Bolts 48 35 — Hub Nut 160 118 — Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut 95 70 — Lower Control Arm Front Pivot Bolt 175 129 — Lower Control Arm Rear Pivot Bolt Nut 145 107 — Stabilizer Bar Cushion Retainer Screws 60 44 — Stabilizer Bar Link Nuts 48 35 — Strut Clevis-to-Knuckle Nuts 140 103 — Strut Rod Nut 60 44 — Strut-to-Tower Nuts 55 41 — Tie Rod Adjuster Jam Nut 75 55 — Tie Rod End Knuckle Nut 85 63 — Wheel Mounting (Lug) Nuts 135 100

TC light can come on from abs sensor issue. Code would show which wheel is an issue. If ETC light means the lightning bolt symbol , that points to electric stepper motor on the throttle assembly. Should be stored code as well. Try calibration procedure first. Super gasoline is for trouble shooting as well.

It’s going into limp mode it seems. Could just be a coincidence it’s happening after car was worked on. It’s not easy to do something to a car to create intermittent failure days later…randomly. Not exactly a new car either. Codes are usually stored when limp mode triggered. Sometimes multiple codes that make it hard to pinpoint the problem. Throwing parts gets expensive fast, honest mechanics don’t like to do that. Could be anything from bad gas to a CPS, crank position sensor that is a fairly cheap wear item ($30 ish) or possible electronic throttle body starting to act up. Plastic gears on stepper motor can start to bind up.There is a recalibrate sequence for throttle assembly. Search the site for it, diy procedure. Being in the North, adding some gas line antifreeze to your fuel is also worth trying. Cheap to do, older stations can sometimes have an issue. Or just run a tank of high test through the car, lots of addditives in expensive high test fuel.

Looks good, glad you got your daily driver back on the road so quick. Factory unit had permanent crimp clamp on hose connections. New unit looks like it came with 4 gear clamps in pic. I like to double clamp connections if possible, but return line pressure is not that high normally. Harbour Freight/Princess Auto north of border have special stripped lug nut sockets. They are left hand threaded to lock on, seem to work pretty decent. Or hammer on crappy socket you don’t care about. Cutting torch sounds like way too much work, have never had to go that way, aluminum rims are fragile.

Tire shop will hammer on smaller socket to remove damaged nut probably. They can be filed back to flat surfaces to get them off and for temp use. But have to be changed soon. Lots of car companies use these crap sleeved nuts that become unusable with time. Salt belt areas especially.

Welcome to the forum. It’s not Freon, it’s 134a refrigerant. If there is no pressure in system might be lots of moisture in system. A big contaminant that kills efficiency and system life span. Can pressure usually creates enough pressure for system to start back up. Adding can of air drier after r134a would help remove some of the moisture. If can doesn’t start it drawing, and jumping out low pressure switch harness doesn’t activate compressor, jumping out compressor relay contacts (moveable contacts shown on relay diagram) I think bypasses all control safety’s. Lots of pressure in these systems when their running ; wear your jock and your safety glasses.?. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Winter weather can be crappy for outdoor repairs. The chrome sleeve can be popped off and a different size socket can be used on the smaller size steel nut underneath. Or you can file the sleeve so a socket can be put over sleeved nut. Switch to solid chrome nuts like McGuard etc. Factory lug nuts are crap, rust makes them swell up, softness makes them deform and not fit socket anymore. Over torquing torquing adds to problem as well. Return line is not crazy pressure, could do double clamped higher pressure hose repair on rusted section until weather clears.

Probably return line is bad as well, was recall ever done.? Looks like grill has to come off to get to cooler. Don’t run it dry, buy a quart of fluid asap. ATF4 is ok to use as well. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwielPeEytH9AhWCFTQIHay2AmYQFnoECCoQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstatic.nhtsa.gov%2Fodi%2Frcl%2F2016%2FRCRIT-16V273-8350.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2m1VX_HnarQLUlyYSqpOfC https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwielPeEytH9AhWCFTQIHay2AmYQFnoECCsQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ncconsumer.org%2Fnews-articles%2Floss-of-power-steering-assist-leads-to-dodge-journey-recall.html&usg=AOvVaw0fJ5Srw_JdctQ_QBu9cN8o

It’s possibly a map sensor issue, but there should be codes showing up. They can be a wear item eventually. Good news is your compression is good, not an easy or cheap thing to fix. Cylinder Leak down test should have been checked too. Extra air coming in to intake can create random misfire problem.. I would replace intake manifold gasket first, not the expensive PCM. The main computer on cars rarely fail. Intake is a more logical cheaper guess. I can’t argue with oem parts for critical items, it is always the better choice. But money is tight every where now.

Yes, you can lose just front or back spray. Pump has two separate outputs, could switch hoses to get front working and leave back not working.

I haven’t had one of those in my hand before; work on cars as a hobby quite a bit, retired millwright. Looks like cast metal item, so fragile. I worry there are other cracks you can’t see. Awkward to get at later if it fails. Will probably come off in several pieces by hand fairly easily. Preheat with hair dryer if tight to install new one. Works together with your egr valve I think to keep oil inside engine. Probably mesh inside which could get plugged over time. Online sites for Mopar are decent and you guys have much cheaper shipping than we have up North. Unless money super tight, I would change it. If over 100k miles consider changing egr as well; they start leaking around that milage, I just changed mine for that reason. https://www.megacitymopar.com/cart.aspx

Look closely at magnetic drain plug. Should only have fine fur on it, no larger particle size metal shavings. Just less than a quart, around 0.8 lire I believe. Use good quality gear oil, factory fluid is semi synthetic. Look closely at the three lip seals, one on each half shaft and the other on output shaft; shouldn’t be any active drips. So dump and fill and inspection of seals.

Depends on year. https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/hoat-vs-oat-coolant-know-your-coolant-and-save-your-engine.26656/

Put battery on a charger for a few hours. Alternator might not be properly charging the almost new battery properly.

Our 2014 has 231k kms and are still not bad. In first two years 2009-2010 the Journey suspension was really fragile and brakes were under sized. Lots of links talking about it. It was fixed after that and seems to be a little better than average. Although the newer suspension design can develop a constant rattle from bushings that wear out, rear latteral links also wear early if you haul loads a lot. Canada likes to sell Monroe after market struts; that are usually crap. Buy oem or KYB if possible.

Doesn’t look like they are doing you any favours , would be sending it some where else. Any decent mechanic can do this repair. Dorman, a fairly big US aftermarket automotive parts company makes an aluminum version. Some people on this site have had them installed with good results. If an original oem part fails prematurely, I will only use another one if part design has changed, or if I’m getting it at a significant discount. But that’s just me.

You have two options for fixing oil filter/cooler assembly. Another plastic one that are readily available or one made of aluminum like you have in the picture. Which are harder to come by. If it’s warranty dealer, calls the shots, I would expect another plastic unit. Yours lasted seven years before failure, if it’s a free fix I would let them do it. Need to be aware there are two different oil filters on the 3.6 engine. One was used from 2011-2013 and the other from 2014-2020. Wrong filter could damage housing, not interchangeable. Your China site is showing wrong info. These guys are one of the better on line sites, very reasonable shipping, fast delivery. The alum units are out of stock right now. People must prefer them. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,engine,oil+filter+housing,12429

Where was the location of leak, right side of engine.? The coolant manifold on side of engine can be a pain, had to replace it on daughter in laws 2012 four cylinder. It has both the cabin and engine thermostat mounted in the assembly. Engine one might be sticking a bit and causing higher engine temps. Cabin heat diverts enough heat so you aren’t boiling over. Lots of things to leak on this assembly , flange o rings should be replaced while in there. Some people change the whole assembly, ends up being cheaper. Make sure to use compatible glycol, early Journey used diffferent stuff.

Cleaning main grounds always a good idea in rust belt areas. OBD codes aren’t stored for a bad starter, just sensor issues. Any security light flashing on dash ? If chipped key try using the other key if you have it. Remove heat shield from starter, give it a few medium taps with mallet; if it starts you probably have solenoid contacts issue, new or rebuilt starter needed. The moveable contacts shown on relay can be jumpered. Bypasses park/neutral switch and key security and dash switches all together. Narrows it down to just starter assembly.

Uconnect has updates on their site. You transfer updates using a jump drive. Might help. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

Welcome to the site. This is a 2014 Journey picture. No bracket, molded plastic , so you probably just have an open hole.

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