John/Horace

You have two options for fixing oil filter/cooler assembly. Another plastic one that are readily available or one made of aluminum like you have in the picture. Which are harder to come by. If it’s warranty dealer, calls the shots, I would expect another plastic unit. Yours lasted seven years before failure, if it’s a free fix I would let them do it. Need to be aware there are two different oil filters on the 3.6 engine. One was used from 2011-2013 and the other from 2014-2020. Wrong filter could damage housing, not interchangeable. Your China site is showing wrong info. These guys are one of the better on line sites, very reasonable shipping, fast delivery. The alum units are out of stock right now. People must prefer them. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,engine,oil+filter+housing,12429

Where was the location of leak, right side of engine.? The coolant manifold on side of engine can be a pain, had to replace it on daughter in laws 2012 four cylinder. It has both the cabin and engine thermostat mounted in the assembly. Engine one might be sticking a bit and causing higher engine temps. Cabin heat diverts enough heat so you aren’t boiling over. Lots of things to leak on this assembly , flange o rings should be replaced while in there. Some people change the whole assembly, ends up being cheaper. Make sure to use compatible glycol, early Journey used diffferent stuff.

Cleaning main grounds always a good idea in rust belt areas. OBD codes aren’t stored for a bad starter, just sensor issues. Any security light flashing on dash ? If chipped key try using the other key if you have it. Remove heat shield from starter, give it a few medium taps with mallet; if it starts you probably have solenoid contacts issue, new or rebuilt starter needed. The moveable contacts shown on relay can be jumpered. Bypasses park/neutral switch and key security and dash switches all together. Narrows it down to just starter assembly.

Uconnect has updates on their site. You transfer updates using a jump drive. Might help. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

Welcome to the site. This is a 2014 Journey picture. No bracket, molded plastic , so you probably just have an open hole.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/pilothouse/permalink/10159496213923719/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Hydraulic pump will have a relief valve built in. Prevents blowing hoses when steering is held at extreme end position on right or left. Makes me wonder if it’s working.

If it lets go you would have to get towed most likely, not cheap. Labor I think is roughly 1.5 hours , proper clean up could make it even longer. Complete unit with the temp and pressure sensors on it has to be close to $250 with tax. New set of intake seals would have gone on as well. Good time for plug change if they are due. Dealer won’t use the aftermarket all aluminum units, but plastic one should outlast your ownership.

A lot of people on diy hook ups use one of the rear back up lights to activate or power camera. Easy access. Park neutral range selector switch in tranny works with a ground return I believe. Often the only ground leg on the starter relay under hood.

Try cleaning up the big grounds on the driver side strut tower. They get crappy looking in rust belt areas. Make shiny and then very thin film of dielectric grease. Even the remote battery terminals get corroded a bit and can use cleaning up. I’m thinking ground related issue.

It seems odd having so many codes at once. Only crank sensor will actually shut off engine. Maybe try cleaning pins on ecm with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Then reseat the plug. Bad harness is also a good possibility if it feels brittle. I want to change CPS on wife’s awd 2014 with high milage before it actually fails. Will probably wait for next spark plug change now when the intake manifold is already removed. If it’s doable with only that removed.

Good news. I had to remove a starter one time to install a CPS on daughters Rondo. It’s awkward on a lot of cars. So you changed it without removing any other parts what so ever ? Not even motor mount.

Yes I have heard random horn is often TIPM on early model journeys. Could clean up contact points real shiny and see if it helps. People make up a bypass harness for TIPM to prove it’s the problem. There are utube links on how to do this.

Welcome to the site. That’s a major install job, the 3.6 is not that easy to work on. A lot of plugs to reconnect on the newer engines; try double checking harness for any not connected plugs. Its possible the range selector switch is not matched up with the physical position of the switch in the transmission. You need to try to get car in neutral position or park, the only two positions where ecm will run fuel pump and fire injectors. Usually starter won’t even engage if car is not in park or neutral. I don’t think throttle sensor or cam sensors is preventing starting , car would probably run in limp mode. Crank sensor however can disable engine from running. Tricky to trouble shoot sensor, kinda a wear item, around $25 for oem unit. This is a know good used engine ?

Great news it wasn’t piston or cylinder head issue. I noticed my pcv leaking oil around 120 Kms , probably was done at 96 kms. Cams looked ok for wear ? So total cost with valve cover gasket, roller cams, gaskets a fraction of the $1,200-1,500 estimate. Big win.

Try pulling Bluetooth fuse, it’s in the passenger side front kick panel. Most common parasitic drain if it doesn’t shut down, common failure item. Module is very pricy new. Diagrams are buried on this link, hard to navigate. 02 DODGE JOURNEY JC MANUAL (CHANGES APPLY FROM 2012 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zX8rfowBmx1KZpx7zNHQENgcxjFnDjuw/view?usp=sharing

Did you replace intake gaskets when swapping coils. It’s just odd that you don’t hear noisy rocker arms and the code takes a while to surface. But dealer could be correct. If your doing rockers be careful,of the timing. There is a plastic shim kit for timing chain that some people use.

Need to measure cranking amps capacity of battery. When you start a car in cold weather it removes a lot of energy from the battery, in 5 mins running it may not replace what it took to start. So multiple starts don’t necessarily help. Especially an older battery that doesn’t recharge as fast. If you have a block heater, plug it in for a few hours, warm engines turn over way easier using less power (amps). Need to leave battery on a charger for several hours sometimes to recover , especially if out in the cold. Push button start also seem more fussy on amperage than old style key ignition. They would turn over car slowly if battery low, more often starting with a low battery imo.

Leaking heater core would run coolant low, create smell in cabin, stain in parking spot. He hasn’t reported those issues. Lots of posts of fogging issues, high milage older models normally. A/c in winter can’t cycle on enough to help clear windows, so outside air needed. Pull hvac paper filter, look at fresh air actuator on right side; probably will be stuck closed and won’t move when defrost selected. Free it up or change it. Or hope it frees itself up, which someone else on forum has mentioned often happens.

https://www.thedrive.com/guides-and-gear/harbor-freight-hercules-20v-compact-impact-wrench-review-tested-specs

I guess he figured things out, or he is now stranded in the desert ….with a Journey. Good link with pictures, torque specs of the dreaded oil cooler assembly swap. From the Jeep people. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-member-write-ups-250/3-6-oil-filter-housing-357022/

Welcome. If your Kia had one of the GDI engines, you are better off now. Heavy oil use and early bottom end failures are common. But but very nice interiors.

You must have the patience of a saint….and hands like raw hamburger from pulling all those harnesses from sharp dash and body brackets. Good point about the pics, moderator not very active here unfortunely.

Welcome to the site. It’s the fresh air actuator on the passenger side, behind the hvac filter. They often randomly stick. With filter removed see what it’s doing. Every time car is turned off, it opens to vent the cabin so it cycles quite a bit. Once it’s freed up , it will do that. Last time I gave it a small poke with a screw driver and a small silicon spray afterwards. Very hard to get at screws, will have to change eventually. Sometimes it frees its self up after a few days. Annoying for sure.