John/Horace

Hydraulic pump will have a relief valve built in. Prevents blowing hoses when steering is held at extreme end position on right or left. Makes me wonder if it’s working.

If it lets go you would have to get towed most likely, not cheap. Labor I think is roughly 1.5 hours , proper clean up could make it even longer. Complete unit with the temp and pressure sensors on it has to be close to $250 with tax. New set of intake seals would have gone on as well. Good time for plug change if they are due. Dealer won’t use the aftermarket all aluminum units, but plastic one should outlast your ownership.

A lot of people on diy hook ups use one of the rear back up lights to activate or power camera. Easy access. Park neutral range selector switch in tranny works with a ground return I believe. Often the only ground leg on the starter relay under hood.

Try cleaning up the big grounds on the driver side strut tower. They get crappy looking in rust belt areas. Make shiny and then very thin film of dielectric grease. Even the remote battery terminals get corroded a bit and can use cleaning up. I’m thinking ground related issue.

It seems odd having so many codes at once. Only crank sensor will actually shut off engine. Maybe try cleaning pins on ecm with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Then reseat the plug. Bad harness is also a good possibility if it feels brittle. I want to change CPS on wife’s awd 2014 with high milage before it actually fails. Will probably wait for next spark plug change now when the intake manifold is already removed. If it’s doable with only that removed.

Good news. I had to remove a starter one time to install a CPS on daughters Rondo. It’s awkward on a lot of cars. So you changed it without removing any other parts what so ever ? Not even motor mount.

Yes I have heard random horn is often TIPM on early model journeys. Could clean up contact points real shiny and see if it helps. People make up a bypass harness for TIPM to prove it’s the problem. There are utube links on how to do this.

Welcome to the site. That’s a major install job, the 3.6 is not that easy to work on. A lot of plugs to reconnect on the newer engines; try double checking harness for any not connected plugs. Its possible the range selector switch is not matched up with the physical position of the switch in the transmission. You need to try to get car in neutral position or park, the only two positions where ecm will run fuel pump and fire injectors. Usually starter won’t even engage if car is not in park or neutral. I don’t think throttle sensor or cam sensors is preventing starting , car would probably run in limp mode. Crank sensor however can disable engine from running. Tricky to trouble shoot sensor, kinda a wear item, around $25 for oem unit. This is a know good used engine ?

Great news it wasn’t piston or cylinder head issue. I noticed my pcv leaking oil around 120 Kms , probably was done at 96 kms. Cams looked ok for wear ? So total cost with valve cover gasket, roller cams, gaskets a fraction of the $1,200-1,500 estimate. Big win.

Try pulling Bluetooth fuse, it’s in the passenger side front kick panel. Most common parasitic drain if it doesn’t shut down, common failure item. Module is very pricy new. Diagrams are buried on this link, hard to navigate. 02 DODGE JOURNEY JC MANUAL (CHANGES APPLY FROM 2012 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zX8rfowBmx1KZpx7zNHQENgcxjFnDjuw/view?usp=sharing

Did you replace intake gaskets when swapping coils. It’s just odd that you don’t hear noisy rocker arms and the code takes a while to surface. But dealer could be correct. If your doing rockers be careful,of the timing. There is a plastic shim kit for timing chain that some people use.

Need to measure cranking amps capacity of battery. When you start a car in cold weather it removes a lot of energy from the battery, in 5 mins running it may not replace what it took to start. So multiple starts don’t necessarily help. Especially an older battery that doesn’t recharge as fast. If you have a block heater, plug it in for a few hours, warm engines turn over way easier using less power (amps). Need to leave battery on a charger for several hours sometimes to recover , especially if out in the cold. Push button start also seem more fussy on amperage than old style key ignition. They would turn over car slowly if battery low, more often starting with a low battery imo.

Leaking heater core would run coolant low, create smell in cabin, stain in parking spot. He hasn’t reported those issues. Lots of posts of fogging issues, high milage older models normally. A/c in winter can’t cycle on enough to help clear windows, so outside air needed. Pull hvac paper filter, look at fresh air actuator on right side; probably will be stuck closed and won’t move when defrost selected. Free it up or change it. Or hope it frees itself up, which someone else on forum has mentioned often happens.

https://www.thedrive.com/guides-and-gear/harbor-freight-hercules-20v-compact-impact-wrench-review-tested-specs

I guess he figured things out, or he is now stranded in the desert ….with a Journey. Good link with pictures, torque specs of the dreaded oil cooler assembly swap. From the Jeep people. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-member-write-ups-250/3-6-oil-filter-housing-357022/

Welcome. If your Kia had one of the GDI engines, you are better off now. Heavy oil use and early bottom end failures are common. But but very nice interiors.

You must have the patience of a saint….and hands like raw hamburger from pulling all those harnesses from sharp dash and body brackets. Good point about the pics, moderator not very active here unfortunely.

Welcome to the site. It’s the fresh air actuator on the passenger side, behind the hvac filter. They often randomly stick. With filter removed see what it’s doing. Every time car is turned off, it opens to vent the cabin so it cycles quite a bit. Once it’s freed up , it will do that. Last time I gave it a small poke with a screw driver and a small silicon spray afterwards. Very hard to get at screws, will have to change eventually. Sometimes it frees its self up after a few days. Annoying for sure.

Some pics would be nice. Rockauto sells some clockspring harnesses.

If engine isn’t tapping. Replace intake manifold rubber gasket set, could be extra air leaking in. Cylinder compression on #2 might be useful and leak down. Can be done while gaskets are changed.

It’s not a big inverter, 125 watts rings a bell, try looking it up. . Easy enough to add an inline fuse and shut off switch to the rear panel where it’s mounted. Cig lighter there is probably switched source. Could disable it and use same source, make sure to use fuses, probably a 10 amp max.

Welcome to the site. Bad time for heating options to act up. It’s possible the dash interface itself is having issues, or maybe a key input module like BCM, climate etc is causing it. Electrical specialist who has the diagram is the best bet. Drivers door wire harness problem how ever is common, as it hatch back harness on older high milage vehicles. Removing boot and new wire, solder and heat shrink is used on cracked wires. Driver door main switch is also common failure, need to trouble shoot. Multiple odd electrical issues can point to a weak battery, bad grounds. In the rust belt I try to remove main grounds and clean up connections on side of strut towers. Clean up and check as many many grounds as possible under hood. Shiny then light film of dialelectic grease.

Your having lots of weird low milage issues that aren’t that common. Was this a flood vehicle. Search the Mopar sites, or Rockauto. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/ Purge valve is an emissions part, usually it has the longest warranty on vehicles , 8 ish years by federal regulations. Flood car probably no warranty.

Voltage equals current (amps) multiplied by resistance(ohms). v=I x R Would need to know amount of current the valve is drawing when under load. Meter can measure amps as well. Resistance (ohms) is used when testing a coil. The wire harness energizes a coil built into purge valve that moves valve and makes a click noise. Set meter to ohm setting and measure across the two pins coming from the valve with plug removed. At room temp a good purge valve is 28-36ohms if your meter is decent. Even close to that should be fine. No measurement found means bad coil. If your meter has a setting that beeps for continuity, use it. It tests power flow, beeps with probes touching. Should beep if leads are connected across the two output pins on valve. No beep means bad coil, problem solved.

Proper resistance is 28-36 ohms, at 70 F temperature. My valve was 45 F when it measured 14.2 ohms. The EVAP System and Purge Valve As mentioned, the EVAP emissions system prevents fuel vapors from being released into the atmosphere. The heart of the system is the charcoal canister—a device that traps the fuel vapors when the engine is off. The canister purge valve is typically a valve opened by a solenoid that is duty cycled by the ECM/PCM to allow fuel vapor stored in the canister to enter the intake manifold. The ECM/PCM knows when it is purging and there are “cells” in the algorithm map that factor in canister purging for air fuel mixture control purposes, because adding fuel vapor to the intake has an impact on fuel trim strategy. Cells where no purging is supposed to take place are flagged by the algorithm as “purge free” cells. The B+ side of the purge solenoid will typically be fed by a relay, and the ground side of the solenoid will be duty-cycled by the ECM/PCM as the algorithm dictates. (For a technical understanding of EVAP systems, you can read our discussion here.) Once the engine is running and conditions are correct, the PCM commands the purge valve open to allow the vapors to enter the engine. The vapors are then burned during the normal combustion process. The PCM monitors the integrity of the purge valve and the valve’s control circuit. When the module detects an electrical fault with either the valve or the circuit, it will set code P0443.