John/Horace

Lots of oem stuff still not available from dealers. This switch is used in so many FCA-Stellantis vehicles I guess they had to make them. Better the switch than the door wire harness feed.

Very important to preheat oil, hair dryer etc. Otherwise forcing in oil takes a very long time for only 800 ish ml of oil. Harbour Freight sells a suction gun that would be handy.

There is no listing for a hangar bearing part on places like Rockauto, biggest on line site. Most drive shafts have to be bought as a full unit now. Rubber Flex coupling is available only. There are a few aftermarket shafts made. Used unit from auto wrecker is an option. New oem is very expensive and out of stock shown on Mopar Canada etc. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308

https://www.reddit.com/r/interestingasfuck/s/MDTUujxKJO Comments a little nasty…but explain the details.

The oil is held in by the outer lip seal that you have. The rubber/plastic bushing I think is more of a spacer for the cv shaft end location. A transmission shop might be able to locate something like that. Or try a different dealer, no one is spending $2k instead of $20 on a bushing. Maybe lazy parts guy. Wrecking yard would be another option. They often have cars have pulled apart so access might not be bad. Could also try just changing out the lip seal you have, leave spacer bushing as is. See if it actually keeps leaking. Make sure to clean up the surface of cv shaft where inner seal runs really well with scotchbrite etc. Then put a thin film of tranny fluid on that end of shaft area before sliding shaft back in place. Rubber tears easily.

Viscous coupler is bolted to front of rear diff and it is what triggers awd engagement. It can be replaced with rear diff staying in place on vehicle. LKQ sells used diffs, largest on line auto recycler network. Approx $500-600 hundred for a whole rear diff with lower milage. There are posts on this site with pics of this repair being done.

You could try removing main power on battery for 10 mins on the off chance it resets something. When my rear hatch exterior lock button stopped working for a few months. The other outside switches on both front door handles still worked. When I lost the high 3rd brake light I finally pulled apart hatch flex harness and found several broken/damaged wires and fixed both problems. Solder heat shrink…and patience. The drivers door wire harness flex section is another bad spot on Journeys. So you could also have a bad wire there or maybe there is a bad fuse feeding stuff through both harnesses. Affecting front passive entry door locks. Need to do some trouble shooting.

Have been multiple people with this issue on the site. Seems to always turn up as viscous coupler worn out. Can unplug the electrical plug on rear diff, it engages the awd so triggers the bang. May get a temp dash code but if bang is gone… you need coupler. Very pricy new, so most people get a used rear diff and remove coupler for current diff. Ruduces labor substantially.

Its possible the mechanic disturbed something else when he removed all the plastic interior covers. Or it is also possible you coincidentally have one or more broken wires in the hatch wire loom flex section. I would go back to mechanic and see what they say about it. Hatch manual lock/unlock switch, power and ground feed to hatch lock mechanism, high 3rd rear brake light, hatch running tail lights, licensed plate lights, hatch lower mounted task light, etc all fed through hatch wiring. Some people actually cut holes in the interior plastic panels to avoid the huge job of removing half the rear interior panels for upper strut mount bolt access.

Cool. Nice informative post for us Journey owners. Sounds like you know your electronics repairs. Although I own a solder sucker and few other electronics tools, way out of my league. Reuse/repair always tops recycle; it’s a shame more electronics can’t be salvaged/repurposed. With current car supply situation you should see some demand. Cheers.

After reflashing and functional what do they usually sell for. Just curious. In case mine gets bricked.

Any decent mechanic shop should be able to change out a bad half shaft lip seal. No actual dipstick or pan drain plug on the 6 speed. Remove plastic cap on dipstick tube (with comes with no dipstick in it)and fill through that with a funnel. There is a Dorman aftermarket dipstick unit for measuring fluid level. Mechanic shop will know how to refill properly. Drop pan to drain and put in a new filter at same time if it’s over 100k miles on the oil. Or if oil and filter not that old, top up the lost fluid. Mr Dangerfield…he abides.

Remove power cable on battery for 5 mins. Try clearing codes. It was the correct part number for your year ?

If you read CLR instructions they specifically say not to use with brass, copper or aluminum. It’s very corrosive stuff. Have used it with hard water stains when I lived in a house on well water. As a last resort to get heat back I guess. But only through core, stay away from everything else. I wonder long term if pin holes develop. New core might be safer alternative long term, even with extra clamped connections. My 2 cents.

From the old post it sounds like there is no threaded hole for the hook. On some vehicles (usually moved by ship) It is a drilled hole with a captured nut behind it. Car carrier trucks just strap the wheels. An auto recycler would be the best place to get a good look at metal bumper support with plastic cover and foam crash guard removed. If there is a captured nut that could be drilled out you need accurate dimensions for drilling. Another option would be talking to a body shop. They deal with type of stuff all the time. Let us know if you figure this out.

Snap a tape measure on the upside diameter. I doubt reg tire fits, very little clearance around plastic hoop. My donut just fits around my trailer hitch , have to fiddle a bit. Deeper reg tire would not clear hitch. Plastic surround hoop is only held by a few 10 mm bolts. Try removing for a little more room. Even if the diameter then fits, the extra 6” ish depth will be very noticeable hanging below vehicle.

Most of us don’t have the first version interior like yours. That dash might be shared with Avenger or other models. The whole cover is probabky pried loose with the vents and facia trim as a complete assembly. Auto wreckers often have torn apart cars. Good place to practise on removal, see where the hidden screws are. Use a set of plastic trim pry tools to pop apart some of the snap together trim.

Could dump rear diff oil into a bucket and check for metal with a magnet. It’s just less than 3 litres of 75w90 oil IIRCC. Drain plug is magnetic, there is always some fur on it during dump and fill. It’s larger chunks that can be a concern. At a minimum confirm oil level is correct through fill hole.

Good point, OP might not realize there is a 3/8” square cut out for a ratchet drive to fit in on tensioner. But very tight space to work in. I use a pipe extension on small ratchet. Need some of the plastic removed to even swing a tool. Pulleys are almost right against cross member on transverse mount engines, as you know. I replaced with a RockA Gates when bearing went, then belt squeeling.

Piece of 2x4 on the oil pan and lift engine a little bit, maybe 1.5”. Helps create room for tools. A ratcheting box end wrench is helpful working in tight like that.

Damning with faint praise is the interpretation….I think. But it’s my thoughts too, capable and I would even add reliable. My brothers 2017 ram has a 3.6 with 8 speed ZF transmission and over 100k miles without any issues. Can’t tow a 30’ plus airstream trailer, does everything else fine. No hemi exhaust manifold bolts breaking or MDS cylinder deactivation issues to be had.

I assume the new bolts on rear shaft didn’t back off again ? What torque in inch pounds was finally used, curious. With awd all tires need to have close tread wear depth, same size as well. The viscous coupling is a known wear item on the rear diff. Maybe unplug the electric solenoid plug on rear diff. See if disabling its engagement changes anything. May get light on dash but still helps with trouble shooting. Easier than dropping entire shaft.

Which engine ? It’s a transmission input shaft seal.p or C/V shaft lip seal, various names used. They are around $25 shipped on Rockauto, the largest on line parts site. How many car repairs have you completed; around same difficulty as a water pump replacement. New seal can be tapped in with a very large diameter socket that is same size OD as the seal. . Specialized seal driver set not really needed if your careful. Lubricating new seal with Tran fluid is critical before new shaft is installed into tranny. A few uncommon things like a 32 mm cv shaft axle nut socket will be needed.

Search this site. People had changed the TCC torque control solenoid going through side cover. Around a $50 part. Sometimes it fixed problem.

Is this the filler neck part you mentioned. Hasn’t been changed on ours yet, I should grab one maybe. The 2013 is the older HOAT coolant so do a full flush when possible.