John/Horace

Voltage equals current (amps) multiplied by resistance(ohms). v=I x R Would need to know amount of current the valve is drawing when under load. Meter can measure amps as well. Resistance (ohms) is used when testing a coil. The wire harness energizes a coil built into purge valve that moves valve and makes a click noise. Set meter to ohm setting and measure across the two pins coming from the valve with plug removed. At room temp a good purge valve is 28-36ohms if your meter is decent. Even close to that should be fine. No measurement found means bad coil. If your meter has a setting that beeps for continuity, use it. It tests power flow, beeps with probes touching. Should beep if leads are connected across the two output pins on valve. No beep means bad coil, problem solved.

Proper resistance is 28-36 ohms, at 70 F temperature. My valve was 45 F when it measured 14.2 ohms. The EVAP System and Purge Valve As mentioned, the EVAP emissions system prevents fuel vapors from being released into the atmosphere. The heart of the system is the charcoal canister—a device that traps the fuel vapors when the engine is off. The canister purge valve is typically a valve opened by a solenoid that is duty cycled by the ECM/PCM to allow fuel vapor stored in the canister to enter the intake manifold. The ECM/PCM knows when it is purging and there are “cells” in the algorithm map that factor in canister purging for air fuel mixture control purposes, because adding fuel vapor to the intake has an impact on fuel trim strategy. Cells where no purging is supposed to take place are flagged by the algorithm as “purge free” cells. The B+ side of the purge solenoid will typically be fed by a relay, and the ground side of the solenoid will be duty-cycled by the ECM/PCM as the algorithm dictates. (For a technical understanding of EVAP systems, you can read our discussion here.) Once the engine is running and conditions are correct, the PCM commands the purge valve open to allow the vapors to enter the engine. The vapors are then burned during the normal combustion process. The PCM monitors the integrity of the purge valve and the valve’s control circuit. When the module detects an electrical fault with either the valve or the circuit, it will set code P0443.

A used purge valve I have measures 14.2 ohms with a meter, it’s a functioning used valve. I think valve is spring return with power only intermittently to have carbon canister release fumes into engine. Probably works with battery voltage. I would think cold start up would trigger it on with 12 volts for 10-15 seconds. If you have patience, the wiring diagram will be in this link. Not a friendly data base unfortunetly 02 DODGE JOURNEY JC MANUAL (CHANGES APPLY FROM 2012 MODEL VERSION) 2.4l, 2.7l, 3.6l and Diesel. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zX8rfowBmx1KZpx7zNHQENgcxjFnDjuw/view?usp=sharing

All auto exhaust in last 10:years is low grade stainless steel, probably 308. Gets surface rust or patina, but doesn’t rust through.

If your smoking cannabis…they’re all compatible. CANBUS auto wire harness design/communications. She is concerned with cost of repair, led can be a pain sometimes, depending on brand of bulb. Incandescent bulbs maybe dull with slightly low voltage, but more likely to still work. She needs to play with the plug on the headlight a bit. Might only be loose connection or damaged wire.

Yeah once the correct tools are out and it’s on jack stands. The interval is sometimes so close to failure on the next one, makes sense. Tie rods as well, especially if paying for an alignment. Shipping on parts up north is often higher; so buying a full set saves those $’s as well. Some of the better grade Moog sway bar links have grease fittings. Basically a life time replacement part if you grease them. Ball joints with grease fittings also an option; wife’s Journey has that now. If they are hard to change design (think Journey) and you keep your vehicles, the labor savings justifies it.

Welcome to the forum. If son in law used meter properly, you might only have 8 volts to run a 12 volt bulb. Bad connection some where that needs tracing. Can be time consuming. But not always, does plug on bulb have good tight connections ? Led bulbs have a tendency to flash if not used with a load resister. They do use less current (amperage) but still need 12 volts of power to function properly. Can create other issues and waste money. LED’s not cheap to buy. If there is a an automotive electrical place you can find, they are better than typical mechanics on this type of problem. Will find problem much quicker. Often they advertise as installing remote starters, alarm systems, stereos etc.

Welcome to the site. Is it showing blower in turned on in display on dash. ? Here is a link for a no power at blower plug issue., linked to other problem. Need a diagram to start tracing things back. Left front clearance lights won't go off. By dhenderhan, July 23, 2020 in Electrical, Batt

Run the new battery on a charger before the install. They often are dry charged, so not a real full charge. Clean up any connections that you can, shiny is good, light coat of dielectric grease is helpful. Check the voltage at alternator small plug before starting car. Alternator needs full battery voltage 12.3-12.7 to produce full amperage to run car. If it doesn’t get that, alternator can’t do it’s job. Wire harness feed has an issue, not very common problem.

He needs to scan for codes again. Gas pedal sensor can send lots of codes, p2127, p0222, p0123 etc. No limp mode or idling issues mentioned that pedal sensor often causes. If only lightning symbol, could even be wiring harness only issue.

If the alt has over a 100k , change it. It may have to run a bit and heat up before the rectifier bridge or capacitors start to act up. Mine would put out power for 5 mins before it stopped putting out enough power to run vehicle. Mechanical parts like bearings etc are also worn. If battery has less than 300 cranking amps, change that too. It’s on the way out. Towing is not cheap.

ETC has little plastic internal gears. They get worn and start to stick eventually. Hitachi makes the oem, RockA sells it, new better than reman stuff, usually. Cleaning first like OP said, good starting point. It is a wear item and some point will need changing.

Welcome to the site. I hope you didn’t do that in one visit. How many miles on the vehicle.? Reset the code and see if it comes back. If work was done by a shop, bring it back. Some parts can fail right out of the box, China could have had a bad day. Bad coil or plug on cylinder 4. Were new gaskets used on the plastic intake manifold when changing rear plugs. Gaskets can compress, reusing not always the better option. Extra air into cylinder can cause misfire. Along with a lot of other things.

I am confident the fuel level switch and code are not preventing the engine from turning over. A 12 volt test light on the starter motor small wire plug, would show if push button is always sending a signal when pushed.

There are a few safety switches that need to work for car to turn over and engine to actually run. Next no start (turn over) try putting car in neutral and see if it starts. Transmission range selector switch when in park or neutral provides a ground for the starter relay to engage. A bad starter solenoid can be intermittent. Sometimes working and other times not. Worn internal contacts and springs. The starter relay under hood can be manually jumpered with a piece of wire across the two contacts 85 and 87 on the fuse box base when relay plugs in. If it still clicks then it is clearly a starter issue. This test bypasses all safety switchs and the push button start.

Welcome to the site. How many miles/kilometres on vehicle. Click with no start and proper battery volatage (12.7) would usually be a starter issue. Jump starting with cables shows it’s probably not your battery. Could try to confirm with a multi meter. When key is turned all the way to engage starter, the small wire at the starter should have battery voltage signal that is sent by the key switch. Could even confirm that with 12 volt test light. The click sound probably means the starter is getting this signal and solenoid on starter is worn. If light tap on starter with mallet makes it work a few more times, another sign it’s bad contacts inside solenoid on starter. So new or rebuilt starter assembly needed.

If the wires are clearly marked and you know polarity. Unhook battery for 10 mins to discharge all stored power. Don’t want to accidentally trigger airbags. Then solder and heat shrink broken wires. Hook up battery again. May have to clear codes to get rid of light, although 20 start cycles might clear it.

F131 in passenger front fuse panel shuts down blue tooth.

Welcome to the forum. Check main 125 amp fuse in box under hood., if not blown, could have greeny connection. You may have more than one problem. Could even be a major ground cable and not power,feed. Check remote jump starting connectors under hood, it also feeds fuse box, clean up connections, power and ground. Volts measurement is general info, pull battery and get it load tested, need 150-200 amps to start a car. Jumping can be iffy with cheapo cables. Push button has its own fuse in passenger front mounted under the dash. It is a small push in fuse, #F121 rated 15 amp. There are a few spare fuses labeled as such in the box. Good luck.

The code is listed as a lost or intermittent signal from the cam sensor. So wire harness could be damaged from where sensor plug is all the way to where it feeds into ecm. They recommend soldering wire if it needs splicing. A weak battery can also cause the code. Worn cam would probably give a different code. This is listed as an electrical problem code.

Crap, thought it might be the …issue. My daughters in laws 2.4 journey CPS died well before your 160k miles. It’s a common failure wear item. It would have cut off spark to plugs. Tricky to trouble shoot. Mechanics have a little spark testing tool. Easiest way to test spark without that is to remove one of the four spark plug coils, put a spark plug in the boot location (if you have no spare you can remove the one under the coil you removed) plug the wire harness power plug back on coil. Then lay the metal thread part of spark plug on the cleanest metal surface you can find on engine or near by under hood. Have someone turn the ignition key while you watch closely the spark plug electrode gap for a small blue spark. Could use a heavy glove to hold the plug coil so spark plug stays with decent contact with engine metal surface. Glove helps avoid shock, very low amps but it would give a decent shock. Easier to see the blue spark in the dark. If there is no spark, we could be dealing with a TIPM module issue. (Power module which controls elect system in car, black box made of plastic with fuses inside ) But there are usually others things like signals going bythemselves, random horn honks etc also happening before random no starts. Module could be reseated and even by passed with a few jumper wires to prove it’s the issue. A bypass wire kit is sold fairly cheap. Some people buy a used wrecker module, they are pricy.

Definitely a weird problem, Had a Taurus years ago with a a strange small coolant loss problem for quite a while. No air going in and no visible leak. A few months later I swapped out all the cooling system clamps with new gear clamps. Leak fixed, one old gear clamp was stripped and although screw was tight, hose could easily slide off. At idle there was no drip; had to rev up engine to make a tiny drip. Hoses were also older and not very flexible as well. Maybe check every hose connection with a tug/twist. Look for a poor hose connection. Cooler hoses might be tricky to check on drivers side, underneath. Low heat on passenger side I think is a separate item. Pull the filter behind the glove box so you can clearly see the blender actuator on the right side. They have a tendency to stick sometimes. Closed and your windows fog, open and the fresh cold air causes heat loss. Each time car is turned on and off, it cycles to vent car interior. If it doesn’t do this , poke at it to free it up. It needs to be closed for proper passenger heat. Very awkward access to screws to change out actuator.

Great links from Alldata. Even bad fuel can cause an issue like this, syphoning fuel can be a pain. Compare resistance values of the old and new CPS sensors. Failure Modes A failed crankshaft position sensor or code indicating that the signal does not correlate with the other engine position sensors, can be both mechanical and electrical. The mechanical problems can relate to the condition of the teeth on the reluctor ring. If a tooth is missing, it changes the signal. If the ring has shifted position on the crankshaft, the signal will not correspond with the camshaft position sensor. The other mechanical issue could be the fault of the timing chain. If the chain has stretched, the signals will not match and the engine management system will set a code.

FCA added a plastic alternator top guard after around 2015. Earlier models with original alt could still be an issue. But three alternators is crazy, reman stuff is not as good as brand new usually. . Curious what they are they putting out when first installed.