John/Horace

LKQ for usedseat belts.

Rock lists a with and without oil cooler version of the upper rad hose for the 2.4. I though only 3.6 has the oil cooler, weird. They also sell the $11 repair tee fitting made by continental, some one posted it also split shortly after install. If double clamped on both sides, you would think it would stand up. Gates makes a lot of oem cooling parts, if too much price difference from dealer part, I have used their stuff occasionally. 2012 > JOURNEY > 2.4L L4 > Cooling System > Radiator Hose Connector Price CONTINENTAL 65652 - Priced Per Foot Info CAD$13.98

Makes sense, better than getting stranded. Daughter in law has a 2012 with 2.4 engine, it’s a tee connection for hers, no rear heat. I did the coolant manifold on side of engine already, started to get a large drip. not too tricky. The tee should be changed as well, will do it his summer.

Pan with drain is a great idea for diy oil changes. Cheap maint really. I don’t work for these guys, but have had good luck with their cross border shipping…which is more finicky. They have a cheaper pan with drain plug, Dorman and others. Shipping also seems cheaper via fedex. https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=265-833

Is it the orange coolant or has it been switched to green. The two are not compatible, mixing can form gel in the system if proper flushes not done before switching. Google it. Some core failures may be related to that.

Try pressing tcs button on dash to turn it off. If still in limp mode, I think abs fuse will stop limp but you will have no abs. Have to drive more careful in the wet. Need to scan for code for cause of mil light.

Make sure the alt small trigger wire has full battery voltage when car is running. Alt field windings need small amperage 12 volt feed in order to make the big 160 amp output for the whole car. Bad or dirty connector on harness could crest this problem, alt would also test good on the parts store bench unit. Smart electronics voltage regulator can also be flaky or intermittent. Our Journey alt was ok for first 10 mins driving and then dropped to 10 volts when warmed up. Just over 100k miles.

Yes. The Germans use them on most of their vehicles, the 3.6 is from Daimler Chrysler era. . It’s an aluminum plate heat exchanger. So oil on one side of plate, glycol on the other. It’s between the valleys on V6 engines usually. Base has 10-12 oring mounted right on top of engine. Oil filter is also part of this assembly. Problem is the aluminum plate pack is mounted to a plastic housing that has threaded in oil pressure and engine temp sensors. Theory is it warps with age and either orings fail and start leaking oil or glycol; or housing develops a crack etc. There are cast aluminum aftermarket versions made now that appear to last better. Good news on compression gas tests; heads or head gasket issue would be even bigger pain. Either a gasket or a small crack in something seems to be letting air into cooling system. Oil and glycol temp not following engine also points to this.

Any incidents of of arcing out wires, or mixing up polarity during install ? Start checking main fuses in both panels.

Seems like a very frustrating problem. UV die in the glycol and look for the first leak/drip location can be very time consuming. Coolant cross over pipe is mentioned as a problem on the 3.6 engines. Dorman makes a solid aluminum unit, same as the problematic oil heat exchanger on top of the engine. Even the heat exchanger could have a micro crack and be allowing in air. There is aluminum version of this as well. If it’s still the factory unit, give it a close look, very awkward location to inspect unfortunately. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2011,journey,3.6l+v6,3015205,cooling+system,thermostat+housing+/+water+outlet,10337 Lots of chepo thermostats around now. Hate to over pay…but the oem dealer stat probably US made. Very critical component on aluminum engines especially. If you drain it again, something to think about using. Good luck.

Scan for transmission codes. Double check motor mounts under hood as well, engine shouldn’t move much.

I just had a sensor go dead on our 2014 Journey rt with around 140k miles. My 2009 F150 went through quite a few sensors. The Dodge system is not annoying as the Ford with bad sensors. Some sensors are pre programmed and are plug and play after a bit of driving. Others have to be paired with a TPMS programming tool to the vehicle. Tire shops can do this after install. I paid Dodge for a supposedly pre programmed TPMS sensor for daughter in laws 2012 Journey two years ago. Her other tires will still work in that location. New sensor would never show a reading, going to go after market on Rockauto this time. Neighbor has a TPMS programmer, hoping not to need it.

Try scanning for codes on ecm. If pump is being disabled it should show up. When cycled to run position pump should come on for a second and pressurize injectors. Owners manual would state there is a pump interim switch, have you checked it ? Was car running right after accident? CPS and various other things can disable fuel pump. Check fuel pump fuse and relay under hood. Push button start very sensitive to voltage; try jump starting car.

If you switch to neutral after no start, will it start ? If it always will it’s transmission range selector switch issue. If it’s the 2.4 engine the CPS sensor can cause stalling and no starts with out a code. Scan for codes even if mil light is no on. Always a good starting point. TIPM module is another random no start cause on 2009-10 models. By pass harness can be made up to prove it’s the problem. But mechanics prefer guessing and installing $700 part instead.

Interesting post, very helpful info for a common Journey issue, suspension rattles. I wonder if the replacement struts were oem or after market parts. It’s also possible the installation of the second set of struts/links was a rush job. If not torqued properly in place, lots of suspension stuff will start rattling prematurely. Suspension noises can be tricky to trouble shoot. Glad you figured it out, cheers.

Like the OP is saying. Wheel hub speed sensors often cause this problem on Journeys. Not hard to change, but need proper scanner to point to correct wheel. Plug and play sensor, no reprogramming needed. AWD system has one elect plug on rear diff. It engages and disengages the coil for the rear drive viscous coupling. The ptu and rear diff fluids are over due for changing at 108k, 75w90 gear oil. There are links on site on how to change it.

Fresh oil and pan filter is always a good starting point with transmissions. Look for large metal filings in the pan, hopefully none. Dirty filter can cause hydraulic pump cavitation, whinny noise. Use proper ATF+4 fluid.

Try cleaning up the main body grounds. Strut towers under hood have several and they get messy. Issue may come back again.

Lots of possibilities. Need to scan for codes as a start, even if mil light is not on. Which engine and how many miles ? If no codes show up; CPS or crank position sensor is the best guess. Not expensive fix, a wear item really.

The bolts wouldn’t just come loose by themselves. PTU holds approx a quart of oil for the bearings, if it goes dry the internal components will get wrecked. If that’s the case, ptu will need replacing. Skill level needed to work on this item is not like changing a car tire.

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Welcome to the forum. If you have a upull recycler near by, practise on tearing apart one of their seats first. Im thinking there may be some kind of spray adhesive keeping the foam in place. Might need to use a knife and cut things apart. Then a foam adhesive to get damaged stuff back together. It’s going to be a man hands kinda job. Not really designed to come apart for maint.

I have done a chain, tensioner and wear guides on a 2.4 double over head cam GM engine a few years ago. Also several timing belts on double cam V6 engines. Staying clockwise and rotating around to double check marks is always needed. Finicky and time consuming work. Some mechanics always put a new hydraulic tensioner on this style engine if they have the covers off. Constant chain tension very critical on first start up.

Paint marks are often used by mechanics, especially on timing belt engines. But like 5rebel is saying, there are still a series of marks on cam gears etc that should also line up when crank pulley is pointing to TDC. Off by even one tooth and timing will be out causing cylinder misfire and idle problems. There is a special kit with plastic shims for the sprockets to help keep stuff from moving during internal work. Makes the job easier to do. Changing noisy rocker arms early, before the cam shafts themselves are worn. Is the right approach to car engine repairs.

LKQ are good for used parts.