John/Horace

Welcome to the site. There are a few postings on here about the driveshaft. People have often gone the part recycler route because of the high price. I wouldn’t drive with the way it is now; could pull shaft and drive without it. Has been done. It’s listed and sold as a one piece shaft; like most awd style shafts on newer cars. Could look for an automotive machine shop or rebuilder that does axles differentials and transfer cases. They might be able to rebuild using the new carrier you have; press apart and reassemble. Show them the shaft; there is probably a way to take them apart. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308

If awd look at rear diff oil level and color. Drive shaft to rear diff can also make noise, can be removed temporarily if needed. How many miles on car, any recent work done?

Both those numbers decent. Max alt output is around 14.4. Full battery charge best measured after sitting overnight. How old is battery. Journey uses a Nipodensa alt, very good brand. Mine died at just over 100k miles anyway, lot of power options on new cars. There are a bunch of grounds mounted by front strut tower, they often get corroded. The remote battery connections under hood for jump starting also feed fuse panel; good to clean up with sand paper, light dielectric grease film afterwards. If it starts and drives, could be alt is intermittently having an issue and triggering the light. Which is how mine failed, eventually it smelled burnt and stopped putting out 14 volts. Clean up connections first to narrow things down.

When swapping caliper, mechanics often squeeze hose with clamp to stop air getting in. Could cause this issue. Years ago the rubber was much more brittle, flex hose was a common failure. But intermittent sticking of piston when heated up can happen with cheaper remanufactured parts sometimes. Happened with my F150 on Cardone reman part. New …more expensive caliper fixed it.

They have both front and rear here, in Mopar as well. I don’t work for these guys. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2018,journey,3.6l+v6,3440326,suspension,strut,7584

Yeah like 2late4u is saying. Gently un plug and look for corrosion and clean pins with isopropyl alcohol before reassembling. Im pretty sure ecm are normally plug and play if you have the correct one. Unit has to exactly match vehicle options. Used ones can be reprogrammed to clear stored vin, odometer milage etc if right scanner and Tec person is involved. Used one can be configured to fit different vehicles.

I think you are referring to front stabilizer bar bushings. My brothers Caravans use to wear them out. Not expensive or that hard to change, rubber hardens up. Teflon silicone type spray will prove it’s the wear item…like you figured out.

As far as I know batteries are not imported from over seas. There is only a few manufacturers left, probably why price has gone up so much. Terminals are most likely from everyplace, so more variation. Because of location of Journey battery I agree with the others, no McGiver solutions. Shorting out stuff from battery can fry electronics. Bad ground another set of problems. If you mobility issues and a break down….even a harder situation. The push button start for example is very fussy on voltage. Even boosting needs very good source. Remote terminals under hood harder for good contact points. Old style key switches seemed easier for low battery starts IMO. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. ?

Seems weird. ABS shouldn’t affect engine idle. Something seems to be giving extra air or fuel. What brand of scanner, some are better than others.

Always grab a tightened battery terminal with a gloved hand afterwards, try to twist terminal. If you can move it on post, tighten it more or you will have issues.

Alternator has built in electronics that adjusts charging. There is an emergency shut down that car will do if battery voltage gets too low. Cooling fans etc given priority over dash radio, heated seats to maximize run time, will eventually shut the car down to avoid damage to aluminum engine from over heating. AGM battery are better choice if you have the money. Lexus etc shipped from factory with them. Charge much faster, hold charge longer when sitting. Better cold weather ability in the nord. Life span it seems not any better unfortunately.

Shut down and no code is often CPS sensor. Not expensive, a wear item really.

I have had the exhaust heat shields under car start to come loose and rattle. One even rubbed on drive shaft. Made of almost pie plate thick foil, so larger washers and extra screws had to be added.

Set of four can be bought cheaper from parts sites than individual sensors, another factor. TPMS sensors one of the few useful government mandated policies. Helps fuel economy and tire wear, keeping correct inflation.

But if you are paying someone to take tire off rim for pull through patch and then rebalance the tire. Would be good opportunity to swap out the tpms sensor if you think it’s about to die. Its a sealed unit with a one time use lithium battery, don’t think you can measure battery voltage to assess how much longer it will last. If tire is more than half worn and only has a year or two left, probably not worth new sensor now. Wait for new tire install. My 2 cents.

Scan for codes first. Like Keaton is saying throttle position sensor could cause this. It’s drive by wire so several sensors are in play like gas pedal potentiometer as well.

My 5.7 does in a 2015 Ram 1500. You must have a Durango suv. If tranny has no leaks and you are original owner, just measure what you get out and add exactly same amount. Dorman makes a dipstick for checking based on eng temp, it doesn’t stay in place, just for checking.p level.

Half way to final torque setting. Not threaded half way on the stud.

Very old link to revive…but in the North it’s getting to snow tire time again. Lots of people swapping out rims and tires, studs to be torqued and maybe broken. A bad stud is easily knocked out, with out removing wheel bearing hub. New one is not pressed in but usually pulled through with a bunch of washers and the original chrome lug nut. Knurling on stud base prevents spinning. It can seem like lug nuts are getting tighter over time when installed on a rim. The higher torque needed sometimes to remove long time installed wheels I think it’s often caused by dirt/corrosion and sometimes a slightly damaged (bastard) thread on the stud. Impact gun only installed lug nuts are often over torqued and cause some of the thread damage over time. Good shops always finish with a torque wrench on rim nuts, first pre tightening approx half way with the impact gun.

Glad you got it fixed. You obviously have serious electrical skills. The charging system on the car is pretty sophisticated. If the alternator stops charging and the battery gets low. There is a power conservation sequence to maximize how far you can drive with out damaging car. Electric engine cooling fans are made a priority along with ecm and a few other critical functions. The car radio and heated seats and other frivolous stuff is gradually turned off. The current sensor on negative terminal is possibly part of the charging system monitoring, might be better to keep it functional. The bad can bus splice location would be very helpful for the site; could be an engineering flaw. Pic or verbal description of location would be great. Cheers.

Maybe related to this issue.

Sounds like a weird problem. Any issues like jump starting car precede this event ? Focus on trouble shooting first, not throwing parts at it. I would be looking at main power fuse for whole car as a start. There is a special current sensor on the negative battery terminal, it it’s zapped would also have a lot of impact. Lightning bolt is not just throttle problem, it’s major electrical fault problem. Start unplugging and resetting plugs on cluster and other main power feeds. Check for continuity on every fuse you can, looking closer at dash feed items. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,battery+temperature+sensor,10478

https://www.thedrive.com/news/could-a-giant-fireproof-blanket-be-the-solution-for-stubborn-ev-battery-fires On a serious note, my propane outdoor fire pit came with a small fire blanket. Might be useful after all.

Some people have used one of the snake oil addititives for cylinder head cracks, Steelit etc. Temporary fix at best imo.

Hitachi makes the oem unit. Rock sells it new for a very good price. My son used that route on his 2.4 journey.