John/Horace

Interesting post, very helpful info for a common Journey issue, suspension rattles. I wonder if the replacement struts were oem or after market parts. It’s also possible the installation of the second set of struts/links was a rush job. If not torqued properly in place, lots of suspension stuff will start rattling prematurely. Suspension noises can be tricky to trouble shoot. Glad you figured it out, cheers.

Like the OP is saying. Wheel hub speed sensors often cause this problem on Journeys. Not hard to change, but need proper scanner to point to correct wheel. Plug and play sensor, no reprogramming needed. AWD system has one elect plug on rear diff. It engages and disengages the coil for the rear drive viscous coupling. The ptu and rear diff fluids are over due for changing at 108k, 75w90 gear oil. There are links on site on how to change it.

Fresh oil and pan filter is always a good starting point with transmissions. Look for large metal filings in the pan, hopefully none. Dirty filter can cause hydraulic pump cavitation, whinny noise. Use proper ATF+4 fluid.

Try cleaning up the main body grounds. Strut towers under hood have several and they get messy. Issue may come back again.

Lots of possibilities. Need to scan for codes as a start, even if mil light is not on. Which engine and how many miles ? If no codes show up; CPS or crank position sensor is the best guess. Not expensive fix, a wear item really.

The bolts wouldn’t just come loose by themselves. PTU holds approx a quart of oil for the bearings, if it goes dry the internal components will get wrecked. If that’s the case, ptu will need replacing. Skill level needed to work on this item is not like changing a car tire.

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Welcome to the forum. If you have a upull recycler near by, practise on tearing apart one of their seats first. Im thinking there may be some kind of spray adhesive keeping the foam in place. Might need to use a knife and cut things apart. Then a foam adhesive to get damaged stuff back together. It’s going to be a man hands kinda job. Not really designed to come apart for maint.

I have done a chain, tensioner and wear guides on a 2.4 double over head cam GM engine a few years ago. Also several timing belts on double cam V6 engines. Staying clockwise and rotating around to double check marks is always needed. Finicky and time consuming work. Some mechanics always put a new hydraulic tensioner on this style engine if they have the covers off. Constant chain tension very critical on first start up.

Paint marks are often used by mechanics, especially on timing belt engines. But like 5rebel is saying, there are still a series of marks on cam gears etc that should also line up when crank pulley is pointing to TDC. Off by even one tooth and timing will be out causing cylinder misfire and idle problems. There is a special kit with plastic shims for the sprockets to help keep stuff from moving during internal work. Makes the job easier to do. Changing noisy rocker arms early, before the cam shafts themselves are worn. Is the right approach to car engine repairs.

LKQ are good for used parts.

Welcome to the site. There are a few postings on here about the driveshaft. People have often gone the part recycler route because of the high price. I wouldn’t drive with the way it is now; could pull shaft and drive without it. Has been done. It’s listed and sold as a one piece shaft; like most awd style shafts on newer cars. Could look for an automotive machine shop or rebuilder that does axles differentials and transfer cases. They might be able to rebuild using the new carrier you have; press apart and reassemble. Show them the shaft; there is probably a way to take them apart. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308

If awd look at rear diff oil level and color. Drive shaft to rear diff can also make noise, can be removed temporarily if needed. How many miles on car, any recent work done?

Both those numbers decent. Max alt output is around 14.4. Full battery charge best measured after sitting overnight. How old is battery. Journey uses a Nipodensa alt, very good brand. Mine died at just over 100k miles anyway, lot of power options on new cars. There are a bunch of grounds mounted by front strut tower, they often get corroded. The remote battery connections under hood for jump starting also feed fuse panel; good to clean up with sand paper, light dielectric grease film afterwards. If it starts and drives, could be alt is intermittently having an issue and triggering the light. Which is how mine failed, eventually it smelled burnt and stopped putting out 14 volts. Clean up connections first to narrow things down.

When swapping caliper, mechanics often squeeze hose with clamp to stop air getting in. Could cause this issue. Years ago the rubber was much more brittle, flex hose was a common failure. But intermittent sticking of piston when heated up can happen with cheaper remanufactured parts sometimes. Happened with my F150 on Cardone reman part. New …more expensive caliper fixed it.

They have both front and rear here, in Mopar as well. I don’t work for these guys. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2018,journey,3.6l+v6,3440326,suspension,strut,7584

Yeah like 2late4u is saying. Gently un plug and look for corrosion and clean pins with isopropyl alcohol before reassembling. Im pretty sure ecm are normally plug and play if you have the correct one. Unit has to exactly match vehicle options. Used ones can be reprogrammed to clear stored vin, odometer milage etc if right scanner and Tec person is involved. Used one can be configured to fit different vehicles.

I think you are referring to front stabilizer bar bushings. My brothers Caravans use to wear them out. Not expensive or that hard to change, rubber hardens up. Teflon silicone type spray will prove it’s the wear item…like you figured out.

As far as I know batteries are not imported from over seas. There is only a few manufacturers left, probably why price has gone up so much. Terminals are most likely from everyplace, so more variation. Because of location of Journey battery I agree with the others, no McGiver solutions. Shorting out stuff from battery can fry electronics. Bad ground another set of problems. If you mobility issues and a break down….even a harder situation. The push button start for example is very fussy on voltage. Even boosting needs very good source. Remote terminals under hood harder for good contact points. Old style key switches seemed easier for low battery starts IMO. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. ?

Seems weird. ABS shouldn’t affect engine idle. Something seems to be giving extra air or fuel. What brand of scanner, some are better than others.

Always grab a tightened battery terminal with a gloved hand afterwards, try to twist terminal. If you can move it on post, tighten it more or you will have issues.

Alternator has built in electronics that adjusts charging. There is an emergency shut down that car will do if battery voltage gets too low. Cooling fans etc given priority over dash radio, heated seats to maximize run time, will eventually shut the car down to avoid damage to aluminum engine from over heating. AGM battery are better choice if you have the money. Lexus etc shipped from factory with them. Charge much faster, hold charge longer when sitting. Better cold weather ability in the nord. Life span it seems not any better unfortunately.

Shut down and no code is often CPS sensor. Not expensive, a wear item really.

I have had the exhaust heat shields under car start to come loose and rattle. One even rubbed on drive shaft. Made of almost pie plate thick foil, so larger washers and extra screws had to be added.

Set of four can be bought cheaper from parts sites than individual sensors, another factor. TPMS sensors one of the few useful government mandated policies. Helps fuel economy and tire wear, keeping correct inflation.