John/Horace

Is this the piece.

Into the computer meaning the pcm. But it’s the crazy temp probe sensors causing limp mode isn’t it ? PCM doesn’t short out, It’s pretty much sealed, main circuit board is encased in clear urethane I believe. Must create a big mess under hood though.

PayPal might help cancel transaction. It wasn’t straight etransfer or credit card I hope.

Welcome to the site. If sound wasn’t there in park when revved up I would have said wheel bearing. Removing surpentine belt was also a good move. Hydraulic whine could be from the fluid pump and torque converter inside tranny. So fluid and filter like 5rebel9 is saying. These transmissions are used in the big Promaster cargo vans until last year, so they aren’t necessarily fragile. You could remove drive shaft and drive car to see if it’s related to front ptu. Long shot. How many miles on vehicle.? There is a cheap version of Atf+4 and then a more expensive full synthetic one, try the better one.

Was the old one coupling free wheeling and new one stiff to spin by hand. Other have noticed that. You completed the work your self and it’s back on road ?

Up until 2021 the Promaster van used this same 6 speed tranny, before going to a ZF 9 speed. That’s 9,000 pounds full loaded weight rating. I don’t like the way it shift’s personally, but it should have the capacity to do more than what the Journey throws at it. There are utube links with people with 500k on their original Promaster unit.

Looks maybe slightly more than I had on wife’s Journey at similar milage. It’s from the clutch packs wearing I believe. The color and smell of fluid matters more, no strong burned smell and not very dark are better indicators. Are you towing with the 3.6 very much? Dump and fill still leaves a lot of old fluid in the torque converter. With a Princess auto/Harbour Freight siphon pump you can remove through the fill tube about 3 litres of oil. I do that a few days after doing pan and filter. ATF4 is not that pricy fortunately. Ours has never showed any codes yet, but has started to hesitate to down shift some times. Going to change the torque converter clutch solenoid behind the front cover like others have done. There are links in this site about it. Car at 220k kms now. Oem Mopar part is only about $35. Five minute dry, pan gasket sealant can be used over rtv.

Car accident may have damaged stuff. Check power steering reservoir level. Cardboard on ground will catch the substance so you can see color better. Tranny oil cooler looked like it was crunched. Power steering has lines at the front, they could be damaged too.

No separate relay I believe, built into TIPM module.

Hyper flash is almost always a burned out bulb. I have even seen adjoining running lights cause hyper flash issues. Check all your bulbs.

Maybe temperature sensor in back is flaky. Not sure how it over rides an off setting on front screen. Try finding relays for rear hvac and swap them around. Some people just reseated a few gang plugs and it returned to normal. I don’t have rear hvac in wife’s Journey. Not experienced with it. There are a lot of posts about it on the site.

After searching around , I think there is an electric clutch for decoupling. The variable part comes from the fluid itself; temperature varies viscosity which changes the amount of grab or power transfer. To work with traction control etc the awd has to be able to be decoupled, this detail turns up on various sites. The site below wouldn’t let me cut paste properly with iPad, but you get the idea. If you remove viscous coupling there a few bolts to remove its bell housing, which would show electric clutch assembly. Like OP is saying, self rebuilding is not going to be an option it seems. He has the most experience on this site with this issue…and he was nice enough to respond!!! Availability All-wheel Drive Availability Type Rear Differential ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Alternator Battery SUSPENSION Front Rear SXT, Crossroad, Limited, R/T and R/T Rallye with 3.6-litre V6 Six-speed, adaptive electronic control and electronically modulated torque converter clutch 4.127 2.842 2.283 1.452 — Upshift 1.570 — WOT kickdown 1.00 0.690 3.214 0.95 3.16 2.06 CVP, SE Plus, SXT, Crossroad and Limited Crossroad, R/T and R/T Rallye Electronically controlled coupling (ECC) with variable torque output Open 160-amp — Standard on all Journey models 525-amp maintenance-free Independent MacPherson strut, coil spring over gas-charged shock absorbers, stabilizer bar with isolated suspension cradle Multi-link independent with coil springs, link-type stabilizer bar, gas-charged shock absorbers and isolated rear suspension cradle

You should be able to pull drive shaft and front coupler and still drive the car until you get parts. A shop could also do this for you. The electrical plug on diff needs to stay connected or you will get a dash light. Give the output shaft seals on both sides of diff a close look. Mine both started leaking and had to be replaced at 150k kms. If leaking now a whole rear used diff might make sense.

Retired Millwright mechanic, four years of engineering school, but I do work on cars a lot. The clutch fans on older cars where viscous driven and could be refilled. I am pretty confident an awd coupler cannot be refilled. Transmission shops can be a good source of info, they often diffs and transfer cases for dealerships. Lots of dealers don’t touch transmissions any more either. Canadian coupler for $2,100. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/52822281/68058066AB.html US site call it a viscous coupler, not a coil controlled electric clutch, viscous driven is fluid imo. https://www.dodgeparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-rear-axle-bdorc-viscous-unit-kit-68058066ab

How about a volt update. Which of the four coolant radiators had to be replaced. This is a gen 2 model correct.? My brother has had to swap a lot of tires, and the 12 volt AGM battery. Fine other than that.

This to maybe. https://www.partshub.ca/2009-2020-dodge-journey-radiator-support-assembly-bolt-in-ch1225218-2.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwq5-WBhB7EiwAl-HEkoKEfPTnOU3nn4oh3TDZndu_e0wU7JMvPpdWPynhv5YZjALpWP_0yBoCskcQAvD_BwE

upper rad support , auto part recycler can be a good source. https://www.partshub.ca/chrysler-town-and-country-2011-2016-radiator-support-upper-tie-bar-ch1225251v.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwq5-WBhB7EiwAl-HEkhP4lgAckvh7y7ym9MudyD0kGAAKuzwbrJo-dowXPGILqCg4Uw5uERoCv24QAvD_BwE

I have an unproven theory about the clicking in the dash of the Journey. A few years back cars often got a mold smell from water sitting in the evap coil. There was even special sprays to get rid of smell. I think the clicking is the actuator moving to fresh air vent position when the car is sitting. To avoid the mold smell accumulating in the a/c coil in dash. A two Journey family, maybe only one on site. ?

If it’s acting like it’s hot right at cold start up, not likely mechanical thermostat. Electrical temp sensor giving bad signal maybe to fan control relay. Dash analog gauge is best indicator of engine temp.

Might set a few codes during test, just clear them. Wrong O2 can cause p0133 code, NTK is the oem manufacturer. Don’t use Bosch.

Possible one of new actuators is bad. Or pivot mechanism is broken internally in dash so actuator can’t do it’s job.

I highly doubt it. It’s just a regular switch, so can bus not likely used. How many wires on the plug is often a clue.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-is-maximum-oil-temp.14407/ The gold standard of oil sites.

Dorman’s official version…warping from age. They also make some aluminum upgrade parts for 3.6 cooling system. Just the plastic lower housing can be replaced and stainless heat exchanger and oil/coolant sensors reused with new gasket set; more labor but might avoid wait for complete assemblies.