John/Horace

Was airbag bracket in dash bent out of the way to remove coil.? Instead of using pieces of heater hose to splice in new coil, was loosening crimp connections and redoing a decent option ; or did it appear too risky for leaks. I’m not looking forward to this repair, might do another dump and fill of the glycol to help avoid jell forming in heater core. This is similar to the problems Dexcool use to create in GM products.

Maybe if you can pay for the simulated exhaust note with simulated money $. The clip with the recorded Saturn Jupiter 2 engine, sounds better, obvious not an ICE engine sound, but neat and futuristic.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g40979761/woodward-dream-cruise-2022-wackiest-cars/

Regular obd scanner won’t pick up all codes. Dealer or expensive Snapon etc scanners will. Usually throttle body sets a code when it’s acting up, sometimes even a lightning bolt symbol pops on dash cluster. Car eventually goes to limp mode with a bad throttle body sensor. Plastic gears attatched to servo start to get stripped. Fuel pumps seldom ever go and they also would set a code of some sort. Whats the compression on cylinder 1, I wonder.

If you still have a misfire code for cylinder 1. Deal with that first, put a new plug in and see if code clears. Mopar throttle body part is very pricy; Hitachi makes the oem part and Rockauto sells it new, not remanufactured for less than half the price of dealer.

So abs control module, not the hydraulics module. Interesting. Maybe drive a little more careful in the rain; you probably don’t have abs right now when the light is on.

PXL_20210528_203254772.LS~2.mp4 Used coupling shouldn’t free wheel like a bearing; fluid always creates some resistance when spun, like in video.

The ram Promaster van used the Journey drive line with much higher tow ratings, probably much larger tranny oil cooler. 62 TE tyranny in both. All ProMaster vans are motivated by a 3.6-liter V-6 engine that provides 280 horsepower and 260 lb-ft of torque. A six-speed automatic transmission sends power to the front wheels. In our track tests, the Ram ProMaster made it from zero to 60 mph in 8.1 seconds. That's a solid performance, but other vans in this segment are quicker. For example, the Ford Transit made the same sprint in a mere 6.8 seconds, and the Nissan NV took 7.5 seconds to complete the run. Ram's ProMaster can tow up to 6800 pounds. This gives it less towing power than rivals such as the Ford Transit (7500 pounds). However, this Ram van compensates with its strong payload capability. It can accommodate up to 4680 pounds, which gives it a higher payload rating than competing models such as the Transit. W I think the bigger issue is the Journey unibody is not rated for a class 3 or 4 hitch that would be needed for tongue weight of about 10% minimum of trailer weight. In a major accident the insurance company is going to look at the specifics and possibly deny a claim. A lot of half ton pick up people are in the same territory with over sized trailer towing. Very nice install work and write up. In Ontario where I am, too much traffic and nasty insurance companies to want to go this route. My 2 cents. https://www.allpar.com/threads/6-speed-auto-in-the-promaster.166506/

Try a different browser. Might work better.

Yeah the charger plug ins work great…if you buy a good one. Some 1amp units barely keep the battery level from dropping if the screen is turned on. Look at the watts and amps, buy the biggest output for faster charging. Plug sticking out does not look as good and gets in the way sometimes. If installing jack, the usb “c” jack is the way to go imo. Mandated spec to reduce landfill crap. In the UK so far, https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjHucuc18v5AhWJBjQIHZQXCmQQFnoECC8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.onlogic.com%2Fcompany%2Fio-hub%2Fusb-type-c-and-usb-3-1-explained%2F&usg=AOvVaw3HaUQd2Z6PVKpdu6I13haG

Pull the plug on cylinder one. Inspect plug for condition of electrode, I have seen platinum point fall of a few months old plug before. (It was a Ford Motorcraft double platinum plug, very expensive) . I would change this plug no matter what it looks like. You changed them a year ago you said. Oem spec is copper core cheaper plug. Copper is best conductor there is, but wears much more rapidly. On the four banger they are so easy to get at, can’t really argue with using $3 copper plug. You might just have a bad plug. Injection and intake cleaners are always helpful maint items. Side note mojo, I lived in BC for three years as a kid, beautiful place.

Probably one of the two front tone rings has started to get abrasion wear ; around $4-10 for part, shops will change whole cv half shaft instead of just the ring. Or one of the $14 abs wheel speed sensors, again. You changed one already so one of the three original ones. With your warranty I guess wait for a bigger issue. It’s why I hate trying to use warranties for stuff. Need a cooperative dealer. Car interiors get cooked in the south; but weathers great for main body rust though. Cars can last much longer than the rust belt.

Keep traction control off in the rain/snow until you figure out how vehicle handles. LKQ is a big recycler site. Across Can and US both. Most places will want to sell complete rear diff assembly. Coupling by itself very pricy new, over a $1,000 Canadian pesos plus shipping. Motor city online parts in Windsor probably cheapest, I posted link several posts back. Keep on the look out on Kijji , Facebook market place etc for a parts vehicle or a full difff assembly. It’s obvious if coupling is leaking or it won’t spin properly in your hands (only few bolts to pull from diff). Nice to have awd in Canadian winters…as you know.☺️

Normally match marking drive shafts flanges is a good idea. In this case with a different coupling coming shouldn’t really matter.

Yup. It’s been done before. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/ https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/

There are a few people on site who have removed driveshaft and driven car; not sure how long they left it. Technically time shouldn’t matter. I don’t think the traction control programming will still match up to the vehicles handling and capability any more. Driving with tcs button off during rain or snow might be safer approach.

Might want to dump rear diff first, make sure just slight fur on magnet, not larger metal fragments. Inspect both side output shaft seals for any leaks (had to change mine on a 2014). Auto recyclers will want to sell whole diff assembly with coupling; if diff is starting to have issues would be better to have a spare anyway. How many miles/ kilometres on car ?

Intake manifold air leaks can also cause cylinder misfire codes. Fairly rare thing. Injectors also don’t fail very often in modern cars.

I would do compression test on all cylinders before throwing parts at it. Put screw driver on suspect injector to see if you feel it clicking. Node light will even tell if it’s getting proper signal, not many people have one. If not an oem crank sensor, thy aren’t that pricy, maybe try that if everything else checks out ok.

What is the kpa pressure in the gauge cluster. It shows what’s really happening.

What’s the back story. Why is manifold being replaced, what were the codes that made you want to change gasket. The map sensor is sometimes a problem on the 2.4 engine, it will set an engine code.

Camshaft thrust retainer bracket, I think.

Works thanks, very helpful link !!

What is build date, might be on the driver door sticker. Dealer running your vin might be able to tell you which part your car should have in it. Part needs to match what the ecm controls are programmed for or car will never run correctly.

My daughter in law's 2.4 has cheap iredium plugs, Denso I believe, for last 3 years, approx 60k kilometres. Haven't noticed any issues. What is supposed to happen??? All the coils are even still original at 125k kms.