John/Horace

I think you will be good with the new core now. Was on a Jeep forum and I came across this info about coolant changes from orange HOAT to green glycol. Previous owner of your truck not switching properly may have created your gel/sludge problem. I think staying with orange and doing dump and fill and maybe chemical flush if high milage, might help avoid heater core issues. – For HOAT (orange) coolant engines, NEVER JUST CONVERT TO GLYCOL. This will completely Sluj(R) the system and kill it. Multiple Mopar 04856977AC flushes, run on water for a while, then another flush. – For HOAT coolant engines, you absolutely must not mix or change without aggressive chemical flushing. That includes mixing with any other OAT or glycol. – For HOAT coolant engines, Mopar HOAT or Zerex G-05

I look after a 2.4 and a 3.6. I like working on 2.4, but driving the 3.6 is a bit more fun. Both are decent really. The 2.4 is a 2012 with around 100k miles, so coolant manifold(thermostat) crank position sensor and electronic throttle body unit were changed out, brakes all around. Dealer swapped front cat under a recall campaign. Kinda routine maint items and not super expensive if you can diy. Driving style can affect vehicle reliability, teenagers beating on a car does not usually help much. ?

Welcome to the forum. You have a first year journey. Curious if it’s the 2.4 or 3.5 and any major repairs that were done. Info that helps the diy people keep their vehicles running. It’s not always the miles that kills off cars, lack of maintenance IMO is the biggest factor. You obvious know how to look after yours. Cheers.

Changing timing belt is a very big job, lots of stuff has to come apart. Scanning for codes is always a good starting point. There are so many things that can create vibrations. Even engine mount on front of engine had to be removed to get timing belt covers removed for belt change.

Most car wiring is 14 gauge multi strand for up to 15 amps, some is 20 amp or 12 gauge wire; around battery is crazy big stuff. I would think defroster would be 20 amp wire in that harness, so using 12 gauge for all the fixes is safe way to go. Voltage drops over distance so bigger gauge is always a little better.

Any stored codes ? If no codes a flaky CPS or crank position sensor can cause random no starts. Doesn’t always leave a code, no t expensive part, $30 ish. On awd model can be very hard to get to. Is it 3.5 or 2.4 engine, CPS failure common on 2.4.

Thanks for the follow up. One last thing, what brand of core did you use, just curious. Thickness of piping might indicate overall quality of coil. Still running the pink or are you back to old school green long life glycol.

Was airbag bracket in dash bent out of the way to remove coil.? Instead of using pieces of heater hose to splice in new coil, was loosening crimp connections and redoing a decent option ; or did it appear too risky for leaks. I’m not looking forward to this repair, might do another dump and fill of the glycol to help avoid jell forming in heater core. This is similar to the problems Dexcool use to create in GM products.

Maybe if you can pay for the simulated exhaust note with simulated money $. The clip with the recorded Saturn Jupiter 2 engine, sounds better, obvious not an ICE engine sound, but neat and futuristic.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g40979761/woodward-dream-cruise-2022-wackiest-cars/

Regular obd scanner won’t pick up all codes. Dealer or expensive Snapon etc scanners will. Usually throttle body sets a code when it’s acting up, sometimes even a lightning bolt symbol pops on dash cluster. Car eventually goes to limp mode with a bad throttle body sensor. Plastic gears attatched to servo start to get stripped. Fuel pumps seldom ever go and they also would set a code of some sort. Whats the compression on cylinder 1, I wonder.

If you still have a misfire code for cylinder 1. Deal with that first, put a new plug in and see if code clears. Mopar throttle body part is very pricy; Hitachi makes the oem part and Rockauto sells it new, not remanufactured for less than half the price of dealer.

So abs control module, not the hydraulics module. Interesting. Maybe drive a little more careful in the rain; you probably don’t have abs right now when the light is on.

PXL_20210528_203254772.LS~2.mp4 Used coupling shouldn’t free wheel like a bearing; fluid always creates some resistance when spun, like in video.

The ram Promaster van used the Journey drive line with much higher tow ratings, probably much larger tranny oil cooler. 62 TE tyranny in both. All ProMaster vans are motivated by a 3.6-liter V-6 engine that provides 280 horsepower and 260 lb-ft of torque. A six-speed automatic transmission sends power to the front wheels. In our track tests, the Ram ProMaster made it from zero to 60 mph in 8.1 seconds. That's a solid performance, but other vans in this segment are quicker. For example, the Ford Transit made the same sprint in a mere 6.8 seconds, and the Nissan NV took 7.5 seconds to complete the run. Ram's ProMaster can tow up to 6800 pounds. This gives it less towing power than rivals such as the Ford Transit (7500 pounds). However, this Ram van compensates with its strong payload capability. It can accommodate up to 4680 pounds, which gives it a higher payload rating than competing models such as the Transit. W I think the bigger issue is the Journey unibody is not rated for a class 3 or 4 hitch that would be needed for tongue weight of about 10% minimum of trailer weight. In a major accident the insurance company is going to look at the specifics and possibly deny a claim. A lot of half ton pick up people are in the same territory with over sized trailer towing. Very nice install work and write up. In Ontario where I am, too much traffic and nasty insurance companies to want to go this route. My 2 cents. https://www.allpar.com/threads/6-speed-auto-in-the-promaster.166506/

Try a different browser. Might work better.

Yeah the charger plug ins work great…if you buy a good one. Some 1amp units barely keep the battery level from dropping if the screen is turned on. Look at the watts and amps, buy the biggest output for faster charging. Plug sticking out does not look as good and gets in the way sometimes. If installing jack, the usb “c” jack is the way to go imo. Mandated spec to reduce landfill crap. In the UK so far, https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjHucuc18v5AhWJBjQIHZQXCmQQFnoECC8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.onlogic.com%2Fcompany%2Fio-hub%2Fusb-type-c-and-usb-3-1-explained%2F&usg=AOvVaw3HaUQd2Z6PVKpdu6I13haG

Pull the plug on cylinder one. Inspect plug for condition of electrode, I have seen platinum point fall of a few months old plug before. (It was a Ford Motorcraft double platinum plug, very expensive) . I would change this plug no matter what it looks like. You changed them a year ago you said. Oem spec is copper core cheaper plug. Copper is best conductor there is, but wears much more rapidly. On the four banger they are so easy to get at, can’t really argue with using $3 copper plug. You might just have a bad plug. Injection and intake cleaners are always helpful maint items. Side note mojo, I lived in BC for three years as a kid, beautiful place.

Probably one of the two front tone rings has started to get abrasion wear ; around $4-10 for part, shops will change whole cv half shaft instead of just the ring. Or one of the $14 abs wheel speed sensors, again. You changed one already so one of the three original ones. With your warranty I guess wait for a bigger issue. It’s why I hate trying to use warranties for stuff. Need a cooperative dealer. Car interiors get cooked in the south; but weathers great for main body rust though. Cars can last much longer than the rust belt.

Keep traction control off in the rain/snow until you figure out how vehicle handles. LKQ is a big recycler site. Across Can and US both. Most places will want to sell complete rear diff assembly. Coupling by itself very pricy new, over a $1,000 Canadian pesos plus shipping. Motor city online parts in Windsor probably cheapest, I posted link several posts back. Keep on the look out on Kijji , Facebook market place etc for a parts vehicle or a full difff assembly. It’s obvious if coupling is leaking or it won’t spin properly in your hands (only few bolts to pull from diff). Nice to have awd in Canadian winters…as you know.☺️

Normally match marking drive shafts flanges is a good idea. In this case with a different coupling coming shouldn’t really matter.

Yup. It’s been done before. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/ https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/

There are a few people on site who have removed driveshaft and driven car; not sure how long they left it. Technically time shouldn’t matter. I don’t think the traction control programming will still match up to the vehicles handling and capability any more. Driving with tcs button off during rain or snow might be safer approach.

Might want to dump rear diff first, make sure just slight fur on magnet, not larger metal fragments. Inspect both side output shaft seals for any leaks (had to change mine on a 2014). Auto recyclers will want to sell whole diff assembly with coupling; if diff is starting to have issues would be better to have a spare anyway. How many miles/ kilometres on car ?

Intake manifold air leaks can also cause cylinder misfire codes. Fairly rare thing. Injectors also don’t fail very often in modern cars.