John/Horace

Jumping 85/87;starter relay terminals bypasses all safety security stuff. Starter should always turn over, if ignition is turned on, then will usually start. If jumper bypass sometimes doesn’t engage starter; then it could be internal starter issue like worn starter solenoid.

If fogs not lit up. Check the bulbs aren’t burned out.

Welcome to the forum. It certainly sounds like a strong possibility. If you search on the internet there are some people that made up a bypass harness and drove with out TIPM for a week to proof it was the culprit. Need to use correct gauge wire and maybe add in line fuses to the bypass. Look for pics or utube clips on this type of approach. A used wrecker part could be another option, or RockAuto. Or a friend with a Journey who can stay home a few days.

Start with trying to start car in neutral, park/neutral safety switch could prevent starting. You said it sometimes starts with direct cable feed. Is that jump starting car with cables? The push button needs a good strong 12 volt signal. If jumping with extra battery is working, your car battery is probably bad. Try charging with charger, test your alternator is working properly.

Welcome to the site. Your fog lights are turned on. This disables the high beams; it’s how they were wired at factory. Pressing once on rotary headlight function switch will turn them off. There is a small green icon in the cluster that shows when fogs are selected. Should be in the owners manual….that no one reads. ?

There are several bearings on the other output shafts that may have major wear from the bad oil. Just rebuilding the shaft in the pic might only buy you a few months. A transmission shop might be able to rebuild the bad unit. But normally the cost would be a lot higher than a good used unit. Hopefully there will be other opinions.

The plastic heat oil heat exchanger was added during the time the Germans were running things; the 3.6 engine was developed by them . This style of plastic heat exchanger is used by lots of other cars companies without big failure rates. . Most failures happen on the Journey 2014-15 years when the original design was changed a bit. The first version used on 2010-2013 Journey 3.6’s never seemed to have any failures from leaks. If it was strictly a plastic issue the older 3.6 heat exchangers would also have all failed by now. Seeing metal over plastic is always more comforting to us gear heads. No argument on better strength stability etc. But valve covers oil pans and all kinds of other critical parts have gone that way, usually with no noticeable issues. If it was strictly bad design I think FCA would have changed it already, 3.6 is used extensively. This seems like a manufacturing quality issue more than anything. Not 100% of all units are failing at close to the same time etc. My brothers 2017 Ram 3.6 has this heat exchanger. He is trying to decide what to do, reading up on forums. Lots of 2014-15 failures docuemented. I think it’s too big an issue to chance it. If super low miles you can maybe wait a bit longer. But beyond 100k miles you a are probably on borrowed time. Replacing this thing is the logical move IMO. The high operating oil pressure on these newer engines could be part of it. Staying with the 5w20 spec in the cold weather zones might be a good idea. My oil cooler failure looked like seals only, no cracks or plastic molding issues.

You said broken/cracked filter housing ; you mean thermostat housing outlet on engine, correct. I replaced the whole unit with a gates when I did the water pump. Not expensive, was over 100k on original. Seems flimsy a bit, so new ones leaking not that surprising. Had a drip from pump, bearing/impeller was fine, aluminum gasket against engine failed in one spot. Could have just changed gasket by itself really. Water pump seems very beefy and should last close to life of engine. But your new 2014, it was the top rad inlet that split on the bad engine, or was it the thermostat housing ? Just curious. As V6/engines go I don’t find the 3.6 terrible to work on really.

Congrats grandpa. I became one last year , COVID wasn’t all bad news. There is a 2014 in our driveway; lost the oil cooler at just over 100k miles in January cold weather. Would have been Much easier repair with engine removed; the aluminum unit wasn’t being sold yet so I used a plastic oem unit. Alternator if original still will be due soon. Not terrible to get at with engine in place. The rad actually split at the top hose to upper rad; kinda odd.. We are almost at similar milage now; makes me wonder if I should swap upper hose now. Hoses get stiff with age and don’t flex as well. Rad could be get too much vibration as a result. Some people have had motor mount issues on Journeys, give them an extra look on “blue”, in case that was part of rad split issue.

These guys are usually 30% off and free shipping for over $200. Auto recycler is another option, on this site are posts from people who did a diy on this. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/

It’s coming from dash ? If a brake or signal bulb burns out there is a hyper flash on most vehicles to alert you. If bulbs are out replace them, should stop clicking. Normally it’s triggered by trying to use direction signals. If no bulbs are out, Open fuse box under hood and in passenger side floor kick panel. Feel each relay for vibration to isolate which one is triggering.

Picture is clear for sure. But the angle and lines are annoying . Do the lines pivot and move and follow the turning of the car ?

Welcome to the forum. If you swapped sensor that quick we know it’s not a rust belt vehicle.

Bad blue tooth module is one of the most common parasitic draw issues on these cars. Search site for which fuse to pull in passenger kick plate panel. Very expensive module and awkward to change out. Discussed here often.

Jumping relay is to isolate if problem is safety circuit or actual starter unit itself. If starter is always engaging it’s, probably TIPM, crank sensor or other wire harness preventing fuel or spark. If not turning starter when manually triggering relay, it must be starter internal issue or bad connections on ground or high amp feed cables.

It looks like it has two mounting holes. On left side of pic, where does the second piece of wire harness go, follow it. Has to be close to the blower motor under dash, might be tucked behind something. Sometimes they are mounted right on air flow ducting. You only have just full speed now, correct.

Make sure the smaller wire on alternator after install is giving alternator full battery voltage. It the trigger or exciter wire for windings. Alt needs this feed full voltage to generate the 150 ish amps for the rest of vehicle. If it’s only 8-10 volts alt can’t do it’s job; would need to trouble shoot wire harness for bad connection.

What’s the voltage at battery when car is running when lots of accessories turned on? No arcing incidents when installing the new alternator.? Map sensor sets a code, have parts store scan for codes.

Sometimes there is a metal tab on some sockets that need to made good contact to complete circuit. Try with fuse removed, so you don’t arc out the fuse, to adjust metal tab in bottom. Sounds like a faulty bulb socket.

Make sure you installed the correct mounts as well. Parts guys can screw up sometimes, give wrong part. Aren’t you still in warranty. Was rubber torn on mount, can you post a pic of it.

Oil change suggestion wasn’t bad idea I though, if it hasn’t been done.

Sounds like sub frame mount bolts may have come loose. There are four of them, need to look up torque spec and check them. Need a torque wrench probably about 110 foot pounds spec. Odd thing but possible. Motor mounts usually a high milage repair, how many miles on vehicle?

Expensive electronic part would more likely be removed at recycler by silver back imo. Tearing out dash part with hammer and crowbar has a midnight auto supply feel to it. ? I would try to return it.

It’s built in to the main computer, they call it a power train control module or pcm. You need to have someone scan and retrieve stored codes. Could be torque converter solenoid or various other sensors.

RTD probes run by ohms resistance. Measure old one and compare to reading of a new one. If very close then problem is probably in wire harness.