John/Horace

A used car that was maintained can be hard to come by. At that price if you don’t like it you can easily just resell it. Lots of stuff gets mocked on the internet. Milage is low enough that major repairs should be way down the road.

Any recent work completed? Which engine is in it. I would clear codes and see what comes back. Misfire can be plugs and 100k is the change interval.

AWD cars have extra diff and transfer cases that have to be maintained or it’s gets expensive. You need to check your rear diff as well, make it’s not also just full of mud. Front ptu is a different part 3.5 versus 3.6, new it’s more money because not as common. Can dollars are @approx 1/3 less than US dollars. LKQ is the biggest on line used part recyler. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-transfer-case-rl071706aa?c=Zz10cmFuc2Zlci1jYXNlJnM9dHJhbnNmZXItY2FzZSZsPTEzJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1kb2RnZSZvPWpvdXJuZXkmeT0yMDA5JnQ9ci10JmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D

Ouch, it was run pretty much dry, some of the rollers are missing on that bearing in pic. I’ll look for an exploded diagram, the problem is there are probably several other bearings also damaged. People usually source a used unit because it’s cheaper than rebuilding the old one. Need to find out if 3.6 and 3.5 use the same ptu if you go with a used unit. Transmission shops do these kind of repairs. Very crappy news unfortunately.

Interesting article, but mainly the comments with actual application in real world. Good car site that just launched. https://www.theautopian.com/why-automakers-overpressurize-tires-and-how-that-can-affect-your-handling-ask-an-engineer/

TCS faults often turn out to be wheel sensors which aren’t expensive. But clearing codes a few times makes sense. Basic obd scanners don’t always retrieve all codes. Sometimes a higher end scanner will pick up more info.

This is a case where if you aren’t using the dealer; you might want to try them. They have access to data bases for really weird unusual stuff. I think it’s probably a wire harness issue where the signal from one of the sensors is not getting to the ecm. Had a 1993 Grand Cherokee Jeep years ago with a constant O2 code after sensor had been changed more than once by previous owner. I took it to a near by dealer for a recall after owning it for two weeks, asked them to trouble shoot code. Head mechanic without looking at Jeep said the 1 -2 volt signal was not making it at full strength to ecm. My vehicle had a know wire harness issue, needed a three foot section of wire soldered and heat shrunk. I checked with a multi meter at home that day and he was correct. Took 20 mins after finding out what pin on ecm signal hard to go to.

Welcome to the forum. Always start with codes. Even if no mil light, scan it. What engine and how many miles.

People usually buy a complete used ptu unit from LKQ or other part recycler. It would be a lot of labor to have swapped out. Several hours for sure, transmission shops can do it. With a small drip it could be topped up and driven without letting it get really low. No dipstick or overflow would make it hard to figure out oil level. Unless on 3.5 it is more accessible more than the 3.6 engine. The drive shaft that runs the awd is also around $500 new.

John Deer bricked the computers of their $5 million of stolen tractors from Ukraine. Worth a lot more $, so stronger security system I guess. https://www.theregister.com/2022/05/02/ukrainian_tractors_deere/

I can’t get clip to play on android or Apple. Lip seal won’t fix play. Drive Shaft has to come off to install new seal, you will see if play is just in the shaft or in the ptu output shaft. If it’s in the ptu output shaft, the bearings inside will need replacing. Lack of oil could have accelerated the wear. Some people have left the drive shafts off the car and used vehicle in front wheel drive only. But ptu still needs to hold oil so passenger front c/v shaft is driven by a lubricated gear box.

Most diffs or transfer cases have a drain and fill hole. You fill through side fill hole until oil starts over flowing and you know it’s full. On 3.6 engine fill hole is almost impossible to reach, it might be accessible with the 3.5 engine. Could also not be the same Borg Warner made ptu unit, so possibly different oil capacity.

Drain plug needs a 10 mm or 3/8 Allen key or Allen head socket. Vent is a black rubber hose with a plastic air vent cap on the end. Vent has a clip at top holding it to a metal bracket. Can use a big syringe to force in oil through the 1/4” rubber vent hose that feeds into the ptu. There are posts on site describing how to do it on a 3.6 engine set up. The 3.5 should be similar.

Here is a potential plot for the next F&F movie sequel coming out. Should have just filmed this event, might be more entertaining …and better acting. ? https://jalopnik.com/thieves-steal-7-camaros-from-gm-plant-lead-police-on-w-1848873008

Decoupler can be changed by itself, awkward with alt in place. Our alt failed at 100k miles; very strong burning smell, decoupler was still working fine. The alternator It is a Denso factory unit; a very good brand name. I think 2015 they added a plastic top guard to prevent oil from valve cover leaking into alternator. The dealer Mopar rebuild I used was good price, had a 2 year warranty and contained 2 new studs and the now standard plastic cover for top of alternator.

Oops.

It’s obviously leaking from the seal, no video needed. The rubber can get old and brittle, metal shavings and dirt can get into seal and wear it out Don’t drive it until oil level is known, might get away with a seal if lucky. If it’s fixed right away. But if it’s already noisy the bearing/gear internals ran without oil and whole ptu wil need rebuild or replacement. Most gear boxes have a accessible fill plug and can have level checked, and can be topped up if low. This unit can’t be.

Weird issue. The small wire going to alternator is linked to pcm/ecm so it could trigger battery light coming on. But measuring 14.3 when light is on I think means light should not be on at all. What is the gauge cluster showing for voltage when light is on. Bad drive pulley coupler could also trigger battery light, but again voltage would be low. When my wife’s alt failed it was intermittently at 10-11 volts charging, then completely failed. Voltage on small wire at alt when the light is on would be useful. It has to be a good strong full battery voltage signal.

Looks like output shaft lip seal is leaking. First thing is to figure out if you have enough oil in ptu unit to keep driving temporarily until it’s fixed. People have posted on site how to dump and fill the 75w90 through vent hose line, slow and tedious, but better than trying to use the factory refill plug that is crazy to get at on the 3.6 engine, 3.5 might be different. Oil capacity is just less than a quart on 3.6 unit about 800 milli litres full. No dipstick so dump and fill is only way to determine current level. It’s possible drive shaft can be removed and new seal can be installed with unit in place if leak is caught early and unit doesn’t have major damage. Usually it’s cheaper to get a auto recycler used ptu then to rebuild or buy new ptu (power take off unit). Look for metal shavings on the magnet drain plug and in the oil that is dumped out. If only a few drips over night, a refill might give you time to check around for quotes. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,drivetrain,transfer+case+output+shaft+seal,8440

I’m vey impressed with your timing chain/cylinder head work. Not a easy job on these cars. Is it running smooth ? I don’t think valve cover would be large vacuum leak category, would be oil leaks as well. I’m hoping map sensor or O2 maybe. Will take some trouble shooting. Off the google. Causes for this code may include: Engine vacuum leak (large) Defective oxygen sensor/s Burnt, chafed, broken, or disconnected wiring and/or connectors Engine exhaust leaks A faulty mass air flow or manifold air pressure sensor Bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p219b Copyright OBD-Codes.com If the engine is running smoothly and the code P219B continues to be reset, start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle (with the transmission in neutral or park). With the scanner connected to the vehicle diagnostic port, observe oxygen sensor input data on the data stream. Narrow the scope of the data stream to include only pertinent data and you will get a faster response. If the oxygen sensors are functioning normally, voltage on pre-cat oxygen sensors will cycle continuously between 1 and 900-millivolts once the PCM enters closed loop operation. Post-cat sensors will cycle between 1 and 900-millivolts as well but they will settle at a certain point and remain relatively stable) compared to the pre-cat sensors). Oxygen sensors which fail to cycle adequately should be considered defective if the engine is in good working order. In most cases, you will rectify this code by correcting a rich or lean running engine

The spoked rims have a nice look. Not sure how they would do with curb or mega pothole incident. Clearly not a strong as more closed in style alum rims. Tires for the 19 are also a little pricy.

Kinda interesting, very good back yard repairs. People talk about their Journey rusting, this is an example of real rusting in a rust belt area. https://www.theautopian.com/how-a-michigan-man-uses-a-cheap-welder-to-keep-his-toyota-4runner-family-vehicle-on-the-road-after-its-frame-began-rusting-to-the-ground/

Just swapped snows off wife’s Journey today. Also jinxed myself. Snow tires save the rims from salt. Salt use is being cut back by roads crews up here, more sand being used. Makes snows help with ice on interstate type roads. Studs banned where I am living now, too much road wear. Ran lots of studs on snowmobiles I had.

I haven’t done a chain on a Journey. But have replaced chains and belts on a few other vehicles. Has the engine moved off top dead center.? If it hasn’t and all the paint marked sprockets and the chain still line up, I would say you are fine. There is some internal play or back lash built in. On timing belts after install and tensioner has been released; I always do 720 degrees or two turns in the clock wise direction and line up the timing marks again. You might find them even closer after this procedure. Good confirmation to very labor intensive procedure.

Interesting, especially the comments section. Sometimes having the latest and greatest creates it’s own problems. https://www.theautopian.com/how-an-involuntary-over-the-air-update-left-a-bunch-of-volvo-owners-stranded/