John/Horace

It looks like it has two mounting holes. On left side of pic, where does the second piece of wire harness go, follow it. Has to be close to the blower motor under dash, might be tucked behind something. Sometimes they are mounted right on air flow ducting. You only have just full speed now, correct.

Make sure the smaller wire on alternator after install is giving alternator full battery voltage. It the trigger or exciter wire for windings. Alt needs this feed full voltage to generate the 150 ish amps for the rest of vehicle. If it’s only 8-10 volts alt can’t do it’s job; would need to trouble shoot wire harness for bad connection.

What’s the voltage at battery when car is running when lots of accessories turned on? No arcing incidents when installing the new alternator.? Map sensor sets a code, have parts store scan for codes.

Sometimes there is a metal tab on some sockets that need to made good contact to complete circuit. Try with fuse removed, so you don’t arc out the fuse, to adjust metal tab in bottom. Sounds like a faulty bulb socket.

Make sure you installed the correct mounts as well. Parts guys can screw up sometimes, give wrong part. Aren’t you still in warranty. Was rubber torn on mount, can you post a pic of it.

Oil change suggestion wasn’t bad idea I though, if it hasn’t been done.

Sounds like sub frame mount bolts may have come loose. There are four of them, need to look up torque spec and check them. Need a torque wrench probably about 110 foot pounds spec. Odd thing but possible. Motor mounts usually a high milage repair, how many miles on vehicle?

Expensive electronic part would more likely be removed at recycler by silver back imo. Tearing out dash part with hammer and crowbar has a midnight auto supply feel to it. ? I would try to return it.

It’s built in to the main computer, they call it a power train control module or pcm. You need to have someone scan and retrieve stored codes. Could be torque converter solenoid or various other sensors.

RTD probes run by ohms resistance. Measure old one and compare to reading of a new one. If very close then problem is probably in wire harness.

A used car that was maintained can be hard to come by. At that price if you don’t like it you can easily just resell it. Lots of stuff gets mocked on the internet. Milage is low enough that major repairs should be way down the road.

Any recent work completed? Which engine is in it. I would clear codes and see what comes back. Misfire can be plugs and 100k is the change interval.

AWD cars have extra diff and transfer cases that have to be maintained or it’s gets expensive. You need to check your rear diff as well, make it’s not also just full of mud. Front ptu is a different part 3.5 versus 3.6, new it’s more money because not as common. Can dollars are @approx 1/3 less than US dollars. LKQ is the biggest on line used part recyler. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-transfer-case-rl071706aa?c=Zz10cmFuc2Zlci1jYXNlJnM9dHJhbnNmZXItY2FzZSZsPTEzJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1kb2RnZSZvPWpvdXJuZXkmeT0yMDA5JnQ9ci10JmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D

Ouch, it was run pretty much dry, some of the rollers are missing on that bearing in pic. I’ll look for an exploded diagram, the problem is there are probably several other bearings also damaged. People usually source a used unit because it’s cheaper than rebuilding the old one. Need to find out if 3.6 and 3.5 use the same ptu if you go with a used unit. Transmission shops do these kind of repairs. Very crappy news unfortunately.

Interesting article, but mainly the comments with actual application in real world. Good car site that just launched. https://www.theautopian.com/why-automakers-overpressurize-tires-and-how-that-can-affect-your-handling-ask-an-engineer/

TCS faults often turn out to be wheel sensors which aren’t expensive. But clearing codes a few times makes sense. Basic obd scanners don’t always retrieve all codes. Sometimes a higher end scanner will pick up more info.

This is a case where if you aren’t using the dealer; you might want to try them. They have access to data bases for really weird unusual stuff. I think it’s probably a wire harness issue where the signal from one of the sensors is not getting to the ecm. Had a 1993 Grand Cherokee Jeep years ago with a constant O2 code after sensor had been changed more than once by previous owner. I took it to a near by dealer for a recall after owning it for two weeks, asked them to trouble shoot code. Head mechanic without looking at Jeep said the 1 -2 volt signal was not making it at full strength to ecm. My vehicle had a know wire harness issue, needed a three foot section of wire soldered and heat shrunk. I checked with a multi meter at home that day and he was correct. Took 20 mins after finding out what pin on ecm signal hard to go to.

Welcome to the forum. Always start with codes. Even if no mil light, scan it. What engine and how many miles.

People usually buy a complete used ptu unit from LKQ or other part recycler. It would be a lot of labor to have swapped out. Several hours for sure, transmission shops can do it. With a small drip it could be topped up and driven without letting it get really low. No dipstick or overflow would make it hard to figure out oil level. Unless on 3.5 it is more accessible more than the 3.6 engine. The drive shaft that runs the awd is also around $500 new.

John Deer bricked the computers of their $5 million of stolen tractors from Ukraine. Worth a lot more $, so stronger security system I guess. https://www.theregister.com/2022/05/02/ukrainian_tractors_deere/

I can’t get clip to play on android or Apple. Lip seal won’t fix play. Drive Shaft has to come off to install new seal, you will see if play is just in the shaft or in the ptu output shaft. If it’s in the ptu output shaft, the bearings inside will need replacing. Lack of oil could have accelerated the wear. Some people have left the drive shafts off the car and used vehicle in front wheel drive only. But ptu still needs to hold oil so passenger front c/v shaft is driven by a lubricated gear box.

Most diffs or transfer cases have a drain and fill hole. You fill through side fill hole until oil starts over flowing and you know it’s full. On 3.6 engine fill hole is almost impossible to reach, it might be accessible with the 3.5 engine. Could also not be the same Borg Warner made ptu unit, so possibly different oil capacity.

Drain plug needs a 10 mm or 3/8 Allen key or Allen head socket. Vent is a black rubber hose with a plastic air vent cap on the end. Vent has a clip at top holding it to a metal bracket. Can use a big syringe to force in oil through the 1/4” rubber vent hose that feeds into the ptu. There are posts on site describing how to do it on a 3.6 engine set up. The 3.5 should be similar.

Here is a potential plot for the next F&F movie sequel coming out. Should have just filmed this event, might be more entertaining …and better acting. ? https://jalopnik.com/thieves-steal-7-camaros-from-gm-plant-lead-police-on-w-1848873008

Decoupler can be changed by itself, awkward with alt in place. Our alt failed at 100k miles; very strong burning smell, decoupler was still working fine. The alternator It is a Denso factory unit; a very good brand name. I think 2015 they added a plastic top guard to prevent oil from valve cover leaking into alternator. The dealer Mopar rebuild I used was good price, had a 2 year warranty and contained 2 new studs and the now standard plastic cover for top of alternator.