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John/Horace

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Everything posted by John/Horace

  1. John/Horace
    The spoked rims have a nice look. Not sure how they would do with curb or mega pothole incident. Clearly not a strong as more closed in style alum rims. Tires for the 19 are also a little pricy.
  2. John/Horace
    Kinda interesting, very good back yard repairs. People talk about their Journey rusting, this is an example of real rusting in a rust belt area. https://www.theautopian.com/how-a-michigan-man-uses-a-cheap-welder-to-keep-his-toyota-4runner-family-vehicle-on-the-road-after-its-frame-began-rusting-to-the-ground/
  3. John/Horace
    Just swapped snows off wife’s Journey today. Also jinxed myself. Snow tires save the rims from salt. Salt use is being cut back by roads crews up here, more sand being used. Makes snows help with ice on interstate type roads. Studs banned where I am living now, too much road wear. Ran lots of studs on snowmobiles I had.
  4. John/Horace
    I haven’t done a chain on a Journey. But have replaced chains and belts on a few other vehicles. Has the engine moved off top dead center.? If it hasn’t and all the paint marked sprockets and the chain still line up, I would say you are fine. There is some internal play or back lash built in. On timing belts after install and tensioner has been released; I always do 720 degrees or two turns in the clock wise direction and line up the timing marks again. You might find them even closer after this procedure. Good confirmation to very labor intensive procedure.
  5. John/Horace
    Interesting, especially the comments section. Sometimes having the latest and greatest creates it’s own problems. https://www.theautopian.com/how-an-involuntary-over-the-air-update-left-a-bunch-of-volvo-owners-stranded/
  6. John/Horace
    Checking the rear diff and front ptu oil levels are a good idea. Signs of leaks, dark stains just below driveshaft or c/v shaft locations makes it even more important. Front ptu has no dipstick to check level. Dump and fill will tell you amount of 75w90 that was there. Full is only around 700-800 milli litres. Rear diff has side plug for level gauge, holds around 1.3 litre I believe. Look for signs of metal in any oil dumped from transfer cases. Grinding noise could be related to brake work done, you need to investigate more.
  7. John/Horace
    Welcome to the site orthotec28 , not trying to be harsh. No capital letters being used in discussion. ? I think it’s either Borg Warner or Getrag designed system; decent oem suppliers for years. Sometimes there are weak links for reliability on a vehicle that deserve updating. But even F150:trucks are using one piece unserviceable driveshafts units on some models. It’s the direction automotive has been moving for a while; throwaway not rebuildable. If you were going to go off road a bit and wanted a switchable a system that stayed in awd for a period of time. It would necessitate large changes to the factory system. A custom 4x4 builder could for a ton of money probably do something. But the driveshaft shaft and transfer cases are really tucked in underneath, a major lift and would also be needed. Switching vehicles a better option imo.
  8. John/Horace
    Why. It’s a simple maint free part time system. You cant add any performance modifying it. It’s a balanced high speed turning driveshaft assembly with sealed connections and a single hangar bearing. My wife’s is still functioning at 225k kilometres or 140k miles and hasn’t been touched. Very pricy to replace if it does go, oem is around $600 I believe. My Jeep’s with double cardigan and ujoints, multiple grease fittings needed way more maint, but they were designed for continuous use and had a lot more torque on them. The Journey system is simple and fairly reliable if you keep a close eye on the oil level in the ptu and rear diff systems. Run them out of oil from a lip seal leak and you have a very expensive repair.
  9. John/Horace
    If you search in the site, you will find not really. How many miles on engine ? You can remove surpentine belt and run car for 10 seconds, careful, no water pump flow like this. This takes, everything external that spins out of the mix. If still a noise it is internal like timing belt tensioner or roller follower, valve lifter etc. Water pump bearings can knock when they start to fail; but usually lip seal on front starts to leak, or weap hole shows signs. A high milage kinda fIx usually. Engine stethoscope can pick that up the noise. If you are going to a shop and you have to explain how to trouble shoot….you are at the wrong place.
  10. John/Horace
    Led load resisters needed on the circuit, or as OP’s are saying, buy better bulbs. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/electrical-bulb+&+socket,tool,led+bulb+load+equalizer,49474
  11. John/Horace
    You need to disable traction control when you get stuck. It allows a bit of wheel spin for getting out. You can’t spin the wheels for long periods of time without overheating transmission very quickly. Try unhooking battery for a few minutes to see remote possibility it’s just stuck in limp mode. A code reader that can access transmission codes is needed to see what parts could be damaged. Torque converter, pump, fluid body etc. It may not be the first time the car has been in the rhubarb; automatic transmissions can be fragile.
  12. John/Horace
    If vehicle originally had a functioning dealer camera already already, the code would have been installed. You are correct the part number is wrong, here is a Canadian oem part link. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/Park-Assist-Camera-Rear/74170856/56054158AG.html I think real issue could be firmware in the new oem camera reacting to the Apple car play aftermarket interface unit you added. Electronics sometimes don’t play nice when copy write stuff is involved. Not much plug and play in the proprietary automotive world. I would try a generic aftermarket cam mounted in place of the factory cam. Try for higher IP68 I think water rating and best pixel rating you can find. Alpine aftermarket cams someone said are not bad, around $95 ish.
  13. John/Horace
    Not sure if you seen this. Guy has 10 utube links for left head, quite detailed. Mopar dealer mechanic, 5-6 show chain marking and removal. Vehicle is a minivan with 3.6.
  14. John/Horace
    Lots of car parts are hard to get right now with all the supply chain disruptions. As I’m sure you know the head bolts are stretch bolts or t-t-y torque to yield design; Rockauto has them for as little as $30 for Mahle a good brand. Some times it’s the little details that can get you. With the low milage a head swap should be the better option over a wrecker motor IMO.
  15. John/Horace
    Link is not working for specs. Canbus electrical systems can act up with added LED lights, create hyper flashing etc. You need a well designed system to avoid issues. I would buy a tube of clear silicone, remove both lights, dry with a hair dryer, then apply silicone where clear lens joins black housing. At 2019 car might be new enough to try for warranty coverage, the headlights are not cheap to buy.
  16. John/Horace
    Bottom view here. Could be another fastener, can you study the reman head going on.
  17. John/Horace
    I have never removed a Journey cylinder head. Man that’s a big job. Here is a few pics of a left reman head, hope it helps maybe. You need it for recore I assume, needs to be in good shape. Tapping with a brass mallet on a beefy spot might separate gasket from head. Stuff can get welded together by the heat. Use a good torque wrench on the reassembly.
  18. John/Horace
    Could you leave ignition on with a charger attatched to battery, instead of running engine. Not in drive but parking brake on.
  19. John/Horace
    Welcome to forum. Try TIPM (computer) reset by disconnecting the DJs battery at the negative jumpstart connection for 10-20 minutes.
  20. John/Horace
    Just shine a bright flash light down the bracket pin holes. One will be just a straight bored hole, the other will have a larger opening at bottom for the rubber bushing to fit. I think they are at the top hole.
  21. John/Horace
    Welcome to the site. Some keys have a security code. I’m assuming your mechanic thinks the code is no longer getting picked up by ignition and ecm computer in car. So fuel pump or power to spark plugs etc don’t work. Is car turning over and trying to start, is there a click noise from starter, can you hear fuel pump at back of car cycle on and pressurize system.? Has he jumpered 85/87 starter relay contacts to prove starter will spin, this bypasses all safety interlocks on car. New keys would be programmed to sinc with car security system which is linked and sometimes integrated into cars main computer or ecm. Physical match of mechanical key and cutting blank is easy. Sometimes there are aftermarket shops who can program new key blanks; but car would need to be there to plug into car electrical system, as far as I know. Not easy to bypass modern key security systems.
  22. John/Horace
    Someone needs a slap. ?. Scroll to comment s section, lots of people completely disagree with him. https://jalopnik.com/111-weirdos-have-bought-a-dodge-journey-so-far-this-yea-1848757621
  23. John/Horace
    Yeah fuel is nuts up here too. . You are thinking custom tune. I was thinking generic performance boost …they send you a preloaded plug and play ecm. So many 3.6 on the road in Jeep’s and Chargers, there must be something around. Cost, I have no idea, just throwing it out there. I think a custom tune is more suitable to heavy engine, cam etc mods.
  24. John/Horace
    I had the first year of the V8 in the Grand Cherokee with a performance tweaked ecm in it. Original owner put in himself,I don’t recall what he said it cost. If you have to deal with state emission testing, that could be a hazzel as well.
  25. John/Horace

    high mileage

    John/Horace replied to 707dumb's topic in Welcome!

    Hello welcome to the site. You must look after your cars. Which drive line is it.
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