John/Horace

Hello welcome to the site. You must look after your cars. Which drive line is it.

Doors that have also have manual access lock actuator much easier to magyver open with their metal arm. This latch is cable only coming from handle. I would study the latch pics below and try using a piece of wire or coat hanger to try hooking latch pivot directly.

The bottom and side pans are quite thick material. If you search here, no one on this site it seems have had to replace the side/ front covers. You could likely sand the metal, put a few coats of primer and then a top coat or two. I’ve done that to the engine oil pan on my wife’s 3.6. They get really rusty and you could lose your engine if you miss the leak for too long. Rockauto, the biggest on line site has no listing , only for the bottom pan. They seem to list most volume failure items; I don’t have any affiliation with them, just a customer. If you don’t have time or have garage access, you could take two fingers of grease and smear a very thin film over the entire pan service. Rub it in really well. Wipe off as much loose paint and dirt as you can before starting. Or buy a can of generic automotive rust control spray and use it. They are environmentally friendly, usually wool oil and other biodegradable stuff. Spray your new power steering cooler lines as well. You must be in the rust belt, like I am. I wouldn’t attempt to replace the cover, my 2 cents.

Welcome to the site. Always room for another car guy!!! 10D36773-657F-497B-B2F3-FF2196BB8AF4.webp

So you used a group 26 with 540 ish cca instead of a group 86 with 640 cca , cold cranking amps capacity. If this was such a mismatch why could your starter motor the highest drawing item on car function, approx 200-300 amps on a cold day. The main fuse on the battery positive terminal feeding the pim, and fuse boxes is around 125 amps, why didn’t that blow. There are all kinds of fuses that would blow if you are drawing too much amperage. They are there to protect components and prevent fires from overheated heated wiring and components. If the battery is not getting charged enough there is a clear dash warning and a code is stored. Negative terminal has a fancy temperature sensor which will see this problem. It often gets shorted with bad boosting polarity mix up. Dealer was able to show you these stored codes ??? Would your alternator work its ass off and have accelerated wear, yes. New battery work harder with a shortened life, yes. Would car maybe not start on a really cold day if lots of short trips with all accessories running; yeah good chance with battery not recovering from enough charging. A slightly undersized battery damaged two critical components in your car with a short ; the fuses didn’t prevent this. Nope; highly highly unlikely. Now if you had a bad boosting incident and melted some charging cables; mmm that’s a different story. Lots of weird damage happens this way, by accident. Fuse can’t always go fast enough.

I did more checking, this thing had me curious. I’ve driven a 305 hp ram and the 283 Journey. It turns out the exhaust manifolds built into the cylinder heads are the same, so are injectors and throttle body intake. The extra power is only from a tune it looks like.; and maybe less restrictive exhaust; which you already have covered. A low budget mod if you are interested.

Welcome to the forum. Did a mechanic recommend changing the camshaft sensors.? How many miles on engine? Could be an actuator solenoid, there are internal screens that can plug up with sludge. Lots of other possibility’s as well, like not enough oil pump pressure, worn timing chain or vvt sprocket etc. Even plug or wiring on the cam sensor being faulty. Very rare cases even ecm problem. Needs trouble shooting to narrow down to exact cause. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. I don’t work for rock auto, best source of easy jpg pics. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,engine,variable+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+/+actuator,12910

Interesting new site has started up. https://www.theautopian.com/car-news/welcome-to-the-autopian-the-ultimate-car-website-for-the-people/

From the JK Jeep forum about our v6 engine, good forum actually. 05-01-2013, 06:09 AM #6 jnabird333 JK Freak Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Sabina, OH Posts: 837 Likes: 0 Received 1 Like on 1 Post HP is not the spec I'm interested in for my JK... it's torque. The HP numbers are usually made in an RPM range you will never use (near red-line). Peak torque is usually in the derivable range. When designing/tuning an engine there is always a trade-off or HP to TQ. A longer duration cam profile will increase HP but decrease TQ. The same lift cam with a short duration will have low HP but better TQ. Back-pressure in the exhaust is also necessary for TQ. In my Jeep I could give a rats-butt about HP... I want Torque down-low for crawling. In a truck you need both the torque to get a load moving, but HP to keep it going on the highway and over grades. Cars are often tuned for HP and rely on gearing to aid in the lower TQ numbers. As mentioned earlier air-flow has impacts on both numbers too. Since the truck has more room for the exhaust, one would think it could be designed to flow more efficiently. Gasoline engines are not great torque makers when compared to diesel. This is why so many (self included) would love to see one in a JK.

The 3.6 in the Ram with 305 hp has different exhaust manifolds and injectors. It’s pretty peppy, my brother has one, but the pick up chassis is heavier than a Journey for sure. The 8 speed ZF transmission trumps the 6 speed journey unit by far. I doubt you caught up completely, but there is probably more horse power and torque now.

Winter gas is loaded with ethanol, kills milage. Some engines need back pressure to run proper stoichiometric mix. Any codes turning up.? Less restriction should be more horse power with the right mix.

Sometimes bad valves in the cylinder head create this kind of problem. Expensive fix unfortunately, head replacement. I think in 2012-13 some where covered by a dealer recall.

That sounds like a very frustrating problem. It’s possibly the map sensor or throttle control sensors them selves are ok, but the 1-6 low voltage output signal is not making it back properly to one of the sixty-ish pins on the ecm, main car computer. A damaged wire or bad connection some where in the wire harness, maybe caused by bad work from alarm system install/removal. Mechanics are better at fixing mechanical problems. An automotive electrical specialist with a pin out diagram for the ecm should be able to trace problem and fix it. Not really a good diy opportunity. Random part swapping won’t fix this problem.

Just curious about the Patriot. Is it a cvt tranny and If so has it been repaired. Crank position sensor, battery , spark plugs, brakes all around and coolant manifold are the 2.4 repairs on 2012 daughter in law car, only 70k miles. Recall replaced primary catalytic, no charge.

Depending on the trim level, the 2020 Dodge Journey has wheels made of Aluminum or Steel. 2020 Dodge Journey Tire And Wheel Size Comparison Table By Trim - (1)front (2)rear Options Package Tire Size Wheel (Rim) Size Shop At Amazon (Paid Links) Crossroad FWD P225/55HR19 19 X 7 in. Shop Tires Shop Rims SE Value FWD P225/65HR17 17 X 6.5 in.

I’m about to take off my 17” rim snow tires to put on my 19” oem aluminum rims. How could an 18” rim possibly not fit on the vehicle and not clear brakes, with similar offset etc. Rim width is the disaster check, I think 6.5 or 7” is pretty much standard. I usually jack up vehicle and throw ia rim on before I buy anything, not matter what people say.

I meant transmission oil and filter. Limp mode is probably tranny acting up. Codes might indicate direction to go in.

Even without a light I would still check for codes. Stalling when cold could be a dirty mass air flow sensor; use the proper rated aerosol cleaner. Even worn plugs can do that, how many miles on plugs ? Limp mode can be lots of things, start with new oil and filter if it hasn’t been done. Usually limp mode will leave a trail of codes, but tranny codes often won’t show up with a cheap obd11 reader.

Always start with scanning for codes; guessing gets expensive quick. How many miles and which engine ? Welcome to the site.

Happened to a Jeep XJ I had, at around 200k miles. Removed valve covers and all kinds of stuff trying to find the source. Days of screwing around for 50 cents of loctite. Some factory grub screws had blue on them, others didn’t. They were loose. Lawn tractors and atv repairs always need it because of the extra vibration . My daughter in law has a 2.4 journey I occasionally work on. Way easier under hood for access than the big 6. People seem to be able to put a lot of miles on the 2.4 without excessive problems.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2010,journey,3.5l+v6,1444632,belt+drive,belt+tensioner,11659

Did the threads strip out with the bolt.? If bolt turned the wrong way, tensioner bracket could be damaged. Pic of threads might help. Often pulley has to come off so tensioner bracket mounting bolt can be accessed anyway. Make sure nut behind tensioner pulley is still there now.

Constant squeal could have been a bad belt, or bad bearing on one of the idlers (or even bearing inside alternator seizing up). Which engine, 3.5 or 2.4. How many miles? Make sure surpentine belt idler pulley and tensioner pulley bearings are good, should spin easily with no roughness and minimal noise. Are you sure the threads on tensioner bolt is good, clean up end with sandpaper and make sure no burrs on threads at end. If it’s opposite threads, remember it’s not rightly tightly when installing. It’s the other way. Try starting bolt by itself without the tensioner assembly so you can see if bolt is starting properly. Also clean all the pulleys well before putting on new belt.

That’s fantastic news, great to hear that. Some mechanics use blue semi permanent loctite or thread blocker on flywheel screws. They can come loose on occasion, hard to trouble shoot. Auto recyclers usually check stuff out before they pull from vehicles.

Need to check what engine oil pressure is, compare to spec. Timing chain has a combo spring/hydraulic oil pressure tensioner on it. If it’s not functioning right you can get a lot of extra noise. Could be weak tensioner, or low oil pressure issue. It doesn’t sound like a normal crank shaft knock from main bearings to me, but I’m no expert. The 2.4 is not exactly a quiet engine even at normal times. Was it an LKQ motor?