John/Horace

Fuse on passenger side fuse box for blue tooth module, removing it temporarily is a good start. Most common parasitic drain issue on Journey.

This is what he was cleaning, very clever fix actually. Probably have to drain and remove jug to change part. Cleaning seems easier, just don’t use wife’s tooth brush; too cold to sleep in garage this time of year.?

https://cardiagn.com/fig-59-radio-circuit-premium-09-journey-ewd/ Try your self. I’m old guy, iPad unfriendly site. Too lazy to use tiny android phone screen.

pics are pixil-ing out when enlarged, can’t seem to fix resolution issues. Mitchel on line mechanic login will have the info, need a one month subscription.

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If you spend the time on the link, it’s in there. Security on site won’t allow diagram cut/paste easily.

These guys are good for testing part compatibility I find, lots of pics. JPD JP3 isn’t mentioned on their list. Quite a few oem models shown. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,3.6l+v6,3309784,body+&+lamp+assembly,outside+mirror+&+glass+assembly,1304 I used wrecker for our 2014 driver door mirror replacement, for approx $60. Just bought the cheapest manual fold, heated powered unit they had. Cover was wrong colour so I painted it with textured black spray. Couldn’t match body colour without paying $360 to dealer for a new one. Looks fine the way it is.

Is an airbag light turned on. Usually clock spring has light for airbag or various airbag codes stored. Traction control light more likely wheel sensor, a wear item more or less. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.?

https://cardiagn.com/2009-15-journey-audio-radio-electrical-diagnostics/ Not great but some info.

What happened with the previous Bluetooth issue, was it a sick doa Bluetooth module? Low voltage from a dead battery sometimes creates weird problems. Any recent battery recharging events. Try unhooking main battery feed using one of the remote contacts under hood for 5 mins, not in fender well. Might reset something. Bad grounds can can create very weird issues like this. It’s newish at 2017 but corrosion is still possible, lots of grounds mounted near top of strut towers under hood. On Hyundai cars I had, the grounds in this location that had to be cleaned, paint removed to bare metal, thin film of dielectric grease and reassembled. Not fun with the present weather.

Although not related to this problem. Cabin filter change is important on these vehicles, about 2 years works for me. Lots of leaves and rural area plugs them up quicker. Havent changed an actuator on my wife’s Journey yet. Has acted up on two occasions in 4 years. Reset itself both times, I am going to grab a spare. Next time I probably won’t be lucky, it’s a 2014 model year.

Justifying ev purchase involves a lot focus on the details. Service not as easy on the later stages of vehicle ownership, pretty much dealer only. If you flip cars every 5 years I think ev $ is an easier decision. But parking location, electrical set up etc all come into play. I’ve owned quite a few 4x4 and awd vehicles. The newer ones are lower maint now. Oil changes on diff’s every 5 yrs-ish and transfer case slightly sooner. The extra cost of option on purchase price seems to come back on better resale. Fuel consumption only slightly higher than two wheel drive. Not driving much makes it even more insignificant on annual cost. Good luck, enjoy new vehicle, happy new year.

Good luck with your new purchase. Lots of Journey owners moving on lately. It’s funny how people will over pay a dealer and get no service records. Private sale gives more information and no middle man commission to inflate price. Have never understood it. Did you go awd this time? Being in the nord makes it pretty useful some times. Quebec ev rebates make sense too if it matches your driving parameters.

Welcome to the site, sounds very frustrating. Which engine 2.4 or 3.6 and mileage would be helpful. Is your electric cooling fan coming on when the engine is over heating, seems like only part not changed. Easily checked by mechanic normally. My concern is the source of bubbles could be a head gasket problem. Expensive and hard to diagnose sometimes. There is a dye or test kit that can be used with glycol which will show if combustion gas is leaking into cooling system. Hope it’s not that, not a common problem. Big repair.

That’s tough, thanks for follow up. Compression test is best evaluation of an engine. Although if metal filings are every where you know it’s toast. LKQ engine is usually cheaper than rebuilding it. But there is some risk. Bad time of year for this kind of thing. Good luck.

Unfortunately the low voltage condition is still there, 10 volts won’t run a car normally. Try jump starting car, leave cables attatched for 5 mins before trying. Cycle on ignition with cables attached to clear the lightning bolt symbol first. Then try starting with cables still hooked up. Push button is finicky for good voltage feed. Sitting for a bit with new battery may have drained it, something not switched off. Need that new battery charged up. Bluetooth module is most common parasitic draw over night, pull fuse if you have to temporarily. Fuse box at kick panel on passenger side, lots of links here explaining which fuse to pull if needed.

Codes are usually cleared with ignition on and car not running. Was lightning symbol on when the car first died , or after the new parts were added ? What is the battery voltage with the ignition turned on ? No arcing incidents during battery/alternator change.

Most those codes are voltage related. No timing related codes so I doubt timing chain issues, mileage not crazy high either. Is the negative battery post temperature sensor plugged back in and not damaged, it can affect operation of car. Sometimes new batteries don’t have a decent charge, try running a charger on it for a few hours. Might be something simple, try the calibration procedure for throttle/accelerator pedal units. Lightning bolt is for a major electrical issue, it should clear itself with proper charged battery. ECU Accelerator Pedal Reset Procedure Note Timing is critical for this to work! 1. Turn the ignition switch to on. Dash gauges lit. Don t start the engine! 2. Wait 3 seconds. 3. Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 second. 4. Wait 7 to 10 seconds. 5. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for approximately 10 seconds. At this point the check engine light starts blinking quickly indicating Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results) has started. 6. Release accelerator pedal and wait 5 to 10 seconds. 7. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds. At this point the check engine light should change to blinking slowly indicating “Erasing ECU Memory”. 8. Release the accelerator pedal and turn the ignition switch to off. 9. Restart the engine. The check engine light should be out. Note: If the check engine light doesn't blink as described in steps 5 & 7, then the ECU isn't reset. * If above didn't work, disconnect the battery negative and pump the brake to discharge the ECU capacitors. This method is almost foolproof as long as all ECU control parameters are within their normal ranges. Resetting The Throttle Body Calibration (this st

How many miles on car. Has it been scanned for codes, often a good starting point. Might be time to have a shop look at it, guessing gets expensive. Maybe TIPM module . It can be bypassed with a temporary home made harness to prove if it is problem, pricy part to buy. If lightning bolt symbol electronic throttle body can prevent starting, but there should be codes usually. Also a pricy part to buy. Are the injectors firing, the plugs should be wet with fuel. A stretched timing chain could prevent starting, not easy to check. Need to line up timing marks on crank and cams. Probably codes from this type of problem as well. Not a common issue unless really high mileage.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have any steering wheel controls at all ? The Bluetooth module inside dash would also be needed, it’s very pricy and uconnect Bluetooth is not great, even when it’s working. Some people go with aftermarket units with better working Bluetooth. My experience is most dealers aren’t very interested in trying to retro fit non factory installed options. Maybe your local dealer is different; you would have to ask them. A recent poster added an aftermarket dash unit that had better Bluetooth, aftermarket camera ability, screen mirroring and all kinds of other capability. Might be worth looking at.

Very impressive install, great pics. No hand cuts from dash work, also amazing ?. Does the factory console USB jack stay functional and the second corded USB input in pic act as another input? No issues with heated seats and heated steering wheel , you have them correct. If you don’t have a factory back up camera already and only bumper back up sensors; you can plug and play an aftermarket cam without any extra programming ? With screen mirroring and data so cheap now, you could just run Waze which has reasonable traffic updates ; forget about the factory nav altogether. Nice to have both options. Thanks again for all the info.

Light electrical parts like op is looking make them worth looking at. Shipping cost not as big. Heavy stuff like rotors or struts, usually not worth it.

It’s a some what fragile part in an awkward spot. I’m not surprised they get broken. Rockauto, who I don’t work for are a great source of oem and after market parts. Good selection and prices. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2011,journey,3.6l+v6,3015205,electrical,battery+temperature+sensor,10478

Looks nice, more solid unit. The stainless steel plate heat exchanger and sensors all move over I guess. Use t-tape or pipe dope on sensor threads before reinstalling from your old plastic cooler. Thanks for the pics.