John/Horace

TCC solenoid maybe.

Here is wife’s 3.6 engine, the alt has the plastic cover held on top top studs with two nuts. That cover was added on all models by FCA in 2015 I believe. Prevents oil or glycol from contaminating alt assembly. Alt will only come out through bottom easily. But clutch pulley is not against frame rail, so changing just pulley I think would be a lot easier than the 2.4 engine. On 2.4 if the engine mounts were partly removed and engine raised from below, you could do the pulley with alt still mounted in place. On both alternator changes I think it’s easiest to remove the closest surpentine belt idler pulley for more room.

By coincidence I have daughter in laws 2.4 in driveway right now visiting. Removing clutch pulley in place looks crappy. Very little room to frame rail for tools, , but removing alt up through top or bottom decent room.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,alternator+/+generator+pulley,2448 The factory alt is Denso brand. A very good manufacturer of car components. Some dealers stock reman units at competitive price. Maybe parts store with tool loan it program will have the removal kit. It’s around $100 ish for whole thing on Rock for a Gates set. Removing alt is not a difficult job really, around an hour when I changed it on my wife’s 3.6 engine. Have to dump glycol to get hose out of the way. Removing pulley in place doable but awkward. My 2 cents.

Is the car still in warranty.?How many miles on it? Removing the aftermarket alarm system would have been a logical starting point. Now you may have another issue, or the real issue. Have it scanned for codes All the problems may be caused by one part, like a bad electronic throttle body unit.

Yeah separate division I think. They started out making parts before vehicles. Walter P Chrysler was a banker who took them over. A flu pandemic took out the brothers. Mmmm.

The brothers would be proud, John and Horace both.

A decent muffler shop should be able to use a small section of 2” metal pipe which they call a sleeve; they then mig weld around both ends to the existing pipe. Minimal part cost but a bit of labor. Not all shops will do this kind of repair; some of them want to replace flange to flange connections. Much easier and more profitable. Smaller garages not chain repair shops are a better bet in my experience. Glad your cats were saved, very pricy items to buy.

How many miles on car. Has pan filter and oil ever been changed before. No dipstick makes it a bit harder to figure out exact level, Dorman makes an aftermarket dip stick that comes with a temperature chart to figure out correct level. Although any old dipstick could be marked off and used. Still need chart for temp versus level, it is on the site, search. If pan filter is plugged up might make pump cavitate, which can cause whining noise.

What oil change done on which component. Did Tec changing oil mention if there was metal particles on the magnetic drain plug. The one piece drive shaft has a hanger bearing close to where noise is coming from. It has to be replaced as a unit, pricy around $650 just for part. Could be removed and car driven to see if it’s source of the problem. But I dont think that would trigger a service light. The rear differential has a sensor with a plug going to wire harness, There is a clutch that engages the awd. Several bearings in the diff that can wear out and make clunking noises. Focus on the gear box that has metal contaminated oil, as a start. Lots of components in awd system can create clunking noises.

How many miles on vehicle. Any recent maint completed. Has the front ptu and rear transfer case ever had fluid changes. Owners manual specs around 60k miles I believe. Any signs of leakage on driveway. Is traction control light also on, or just service awd.

Only way on these rear calipers is to rotate pistons inward. Either needle nose pliers or a rear caliper retracting tool. Smear of sylglide on inside of rubber boot so rubber doesn’t tear helps. But he said calipers are new anyway and rotors are locking properly with pedal pressure. So much work on system makes it tricky to find source of problem.

I would go straight to dealer if possible. Maybe tow if you have triple A coverage etc. No sure about warranty, I think so. Maybe someone else can comment on that. Not located anywhere near Huston. Replacement needs transmission removal; inspection is done through access port with transmission still in car. Flex plate issues are pretty rare; but expensive to fix.

I was also taught by licensed mechanics to not force old dirty fluid through abs system when pushing piston back. Two light raps on bleeder screw with small hammer ( helps in salt belt areas) and loosen bleeder screw before retracting piston. Catch small amount of old fluid in a metal container. Brake reservoir cap loosened before procedure. Top up reservoir with fresh fluid after cycling pedal at completion of caliper/pads installation. So correct reservoir level can be established after piston has extended again.

Should be close enough. Sometimes fender liner has to be removed, better than cutting hole in it.

So you were told flex plate is cracked by a dealer ? Should have asked for a picture of it. I had grub screws on flex plate back off on a Jeep XJ I had years ago. Created a funny rattle only, I got off easy with loctite. Some where on bell housing is a small access door, either black plastic or maybe. Might have a faster or just snap in place. I’ll try to find a pic.

There is an inspection cover on transmission for confirming flex plate is cracked, or grub screws have backed off. Not that labor intensive. However, big labor to replace flex plate. If cracked flex plate fails at speed, could destroy tranny bell housing etc on vehicle. Even more expensive mess.

Haaapppy thanks giving to the neighbour’s. Turkey feasts are great with family. You need to hold close the important stuff in these weird times. Tire studs are amazing, I’m jealous. My part of state/province only allows them much farther North. Verboten in Niagara area. I had carbide track studs on a few snowmobiles I rode up North, it’s like driving on train tracks for handling. Its always takes more patience and skill to keep used cars for a reasonable life span of miles. Some of us like the challenge. Nice sunny day needed for that heater core change. My old neighbor was a licensed body mechanic. He watched me years ago, do a 1988 Aero-nostar dash removal. He said it’s better to do it yourself anyway. Lots of Tec’s rush and end up with a spare handful of screws and you end up with forever dash rattles. But I’m sure you already know that. Cheers.

Here is best link for awd coupling replacement by it self. Can be bought separate.

Here is a discussion of the AWD system from the service manual, which I found to be quite interesting and informative: The all-wheel-drive system requires no driver input or control. Under most driving conditions, it is passive and power is transmitted to the front wheels alone. The system functions to optimize traction and handling under the following conditions: Anticipates slip by responding to pedal position unlike all-wheel drive systems that rely on pumps or viscous fluids to transfer torque, the system requires no front-to-rear slippage for activation. This allows the system to transfer torque in response to accelerator pedal position. If the driver is asking for a lot of power, the system immediately starts clamping the Electronically Controlled Coupling (ECC), transferring a high percentage of power to the rear wheels. This avoids front wheel slippage, as power to propel the car is transmitted through all four tires. This mode of operation is called open-loop operation in that there is no feedback to affect the torque transfer. Modulates torque to optimize traction on slippery surfaces a second, closed loop, operating mode uses feedback from the wheel-speed sensors to determine the appropriate torque transfer. When the front wheels slip, the all-wheel-drive electronic control module tells the ECC to start clamping, sending power to the rear wheels. Attempting the same aggressive launch described above with the front wheels on ice and the rear wheels on dry pavement, the ECC sends even more torque to the rear wheels to minimize slippage and launch the vehicle. Both modes are always active and the maximum of the two is chosen. Power to the rear wheels is modulated during lost of traction while traveling at freeway speeds; for example, hydroplaning on a puddle of water, will send very little power to the rear wheels because the controller knows at those speeds a lot of power is not needed at the rear wheels. Prevents binding during low-speed turns a third condition, which is independent of the others, uses the ESP steering angle sensor to determine when the vehicle is turning in a tight circle. This condition causes the electronic control module to reduce torque to the rear wheels to prevent binding in the driveline. The electronic control module is always checking for this condition as well. Influences handling at moderate speeds. The AWD system is used to influence vehicle dynamics. Other manufacturers limit AWD to aiding traction or providing off-road capability. They concentrate on launching the vehicle or going off road at speeds up to about 25 mph (40 km/hr). Above that speed range, they use it to limit wheel slip for traction. Additional ECM calibration controls torque to the rear wheels for improved handling in the 25-65 mph (40-105 km/hr) range. In this speed range, the system utilizes torque to the rear wheels during cornering with the throttle open to make the car turn more easily – make the handling more neutral. This is more readily accomplished with an electronically controlled system, than with viscous-coupling or gerotor systems that require some degree of front-to-rear slip to transfer torque to the rear wheels. Above 53 mph (113 km/hr), the control strategy provides minimal torque to the rear wheels under normal driving conditions to aid fuel economy. Works with ESP and Traction Control the electronic control module also interfaces with the ESP and traction control systems. The interface allows the ESP system to use the ECC to help gain control of the vehicle. For this purpose, torque transmitted to the rear wheels by the ECC can be reduced. The AWD system is not traction control. It only works on situations where front-torear traction varies, for instance, front wheels on ice, rear wheels on dry pavement or climbing steep grades. AWD does not aid side-to-side traction. ESP does that through brake intervention.

Also on bottom of Dorman casting is fussy but legible made in USA lettering. Visible in one of the pics on rockauto. Confirms that this definitely the best option. I’ve used Dorman stuff lots of times, never had any issues. So much automotive is China now, I just assumed. Glad to be corrected.

Roackauto lists the pump and it’s out of stock. Little over a $100, not cheap.

Welcome to the site. What’s the rear diff oil look like.? The drain plug is magnetic, should be only be fur on it, no pieces of metal. Holds around 800 mililitres or 3/4 of a quart of 75w90 synthetic gear oil. People have had the rear diff fail on these vehicles. If you search site there are postings. Usually one of the lip seals leaks the oil out and it runs dry wrecking the internal bearings. Cheaper to buy a whole wrecker unit than rebuild the existing diff.

If your plugs are close to change interval. Good time to change them out when you are in there that deep. If metal part existed at time my wife’s failed, I may have gone with it. Metal is almost always superior to plastic. Curious, how many kilometres were the failures at. The oil pressure is surprisingly high on the 3.6 engine. Stay with 5w20 specified oil. Heat exchanger only has single O ring seals for oil, would have expected double seals. Operating range is 30 psi warm to 130 cold, 1200-3500 rpms (Haynes manual specs).. Multiply by 6.9 for conversion, so 206-896 for kpa.