John/Horace

Compression in cylinder 6 would be useful information. Intake manifold gasket leaks can create cylinder misfire sometimes. How many miles on this engine?

I posted a pic from rockauto on your other thread of intake manifold and gasket. With intake piping removed look in the intake with car running, have someone press gas and you will see see butterfly moving slightly open if the plug is properly connected. There will be a few codes probably triggered by doing this. Just turning on ignition and pressing gas pedal with car off might also move butterfly, not sure.

I think adding sensor at existing sensor spot might be easier. Looks like 1/8”” npt thread on oem. So a small 2-3” extension to a tee fitting where exiting sensor and a spot for second either analogue or digital gauge can go. Use t-tape or pipe dope on all connections. Pics of factory sensor and threads. Are you having oil pressure issues making you want second gauge?

Scanning for codes would be useful. But cheaper obd units may not show code for which wheel sensor. If you search; people on site have documented changing a wheel sensors on a few occasions. See which one has top vote. I agree part is cheap enough to guess over a high diagnostic fee. Look for corrosion inside one of sensor plugs first. Just bad coincidence for problem after cycling switch. It is important to know how to disable traction control for all drivers. Sensor looks like it’s attatched to harness wiring; so changing is a bit more work than some cars. Journey doesn’t seem to have issues with the slotted ring on cv shafts cracking; which has happened to me on other awd vehicles.

You can’t get to the whole gasket, but where flanges are exposed lightly spray around as much of perimeter as possible. Look at pic of manifold assembly. Fluid will flow around connections, listen for idle to speed up, you have leak location when that happens. Mechanics use this method sometimes. New throttle body shouldn’t be bad, more room around it. Car on ramps for max clearance.

Not sure about traction control light. It’s often turned on by a wheel sensor acting up. But lightning symbol triggering limp biscuit mode can cause weird stuff sometimes. Deal with vacuum leak first. You could have more than one issue. How is electrical plug after switching throttle body unit out. Some people have issues with lock mechanism on plug being big pia, end up mangling plug.

Lightly spraying carb cleaner around flange locations where gaskets are is a good way to find the leak. Engine will noticeably speed up when it can suck in carb cleaner, or intake manifold cleaner.

Was a new gasket used when throttle body was replaced. Doesn’t matter if it still looked pretty and clean. They get compressed and stay that way, contour or shape will match the old throttle body flange. It also could be the large intake gasket on the manifold. Changing throttle body involves unhooking lots of stuff, double check all connections from previous work. Easy to miss something. A generic cheaper scanner won’t always pick up all the codes. Newer expensive scanner like shops or dealer have, can sometimes do more. Gas pedal potentiometer is another lightning bolt causing sensor failure. With associated codes.

I’m pretty sure it’s 1/2” spanner so 5/16 coarse most likely. Could grab a fine nut as well for 0.40 ish cents. Lots of automotive fasteners are metric , so 13 mm scanner would be M8 nut threads. Another 0.40 cents. Pulling fuel pump and starter relay from main fuse box under hood and storing in car under seat is also effective anti theft. Easier and quicker IMO. When I had a high theft vehicle that was my fall back.

Lots of bolts on a expensive plastic intake housing, torque wrench required IMO. Awkward back of the engine work, not simple. Wouldn’t be my first choice to do that. Did you use a new gasket with the throttle body change. I would start with changing that first if you didn’t. Make sure intake plastic snorkel is properly put together at all joints as well. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

It’s listed on Rock, they are pretty accurate usually. Look for the electrical plug. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2010,journey,2.4l+l4,1444631,engine,intake+manifold+runner+control+valve+/+solenoid,10776

There was no need to guess and replace driveshaft. Original could have been removed and car driven around with out it to see if vibration is gone before changing it. Time to find a new shop. Did dealer swap the expensive drive shaft.? Move back tires to the front and see if vibration moves accordingly. Tire or rim like rebel5 mentioned is possible. Bad rotor or various suspension parts can create vibration as well. There are vibration measurement tools that some shops use for trouble shooting.

Welcome to forum. Which engine, 2.4 or 3.6 , milage ? Did you use a torque wrench on all fasteners? Some starters have a sheet metal heat cover held with small 10 mm nuts, if they aren’t tight could cause rattle. If exhaust was removed during job, it could cause a rattle. Starter meshes with flex plate mounted to torque converter. It’s held with grub screws, if they come loose can create a rattle. Like laryl mentioned, crack can do that as well. Pretty rare thing to happen. Heat shield pic for 3.6.

New member Maz showed this pic of his speedo last week, converts to 253k miles. Maybe he will respond with his repair laundry list, might be interesting. Freemont models from Europe etc wouldn’t add much to these annual total I think. Hello, am new to the forums and require some help.. I have a 2015 Dodge Journey SXT 3.6 engine, my heater only heat while the car is idle but when I’m driving, it blows cold air, any idea what could be causing this to happen? And sometimes it shows this electric symbol on my dash - see picture below

I use the green normally. Cheap from Costco by the case. If you flush out tank in summer you might be able to use the pricy rainX stuff. Like they are saying, must be some kind of crud on the sensor that affects signal from sensor. The fix seemed to make sense. Can’t imagine Stelantis FCA selling a car with a system that doesn’t accept all windshield wiper fluid. The low level light on my wife’s Journey has never come on. Not sure it even works. I’ll need to run it low and see.

Here is a discount code. They are easy to find on internet, it’s for 5%. Code: 191496924150009699 Your Discount is About to Expire! Now is the time to order parts for your car or truck! We continue to add new part types and brands to the RockAuto.com catalog. See what's new before your code expires on January 30, 2022, 12:00 Midnight CT! Daily Driver Parts Classic Car Parts "Dealer Only" Parts Accessories How to Use Your Discount Code Using your discount code is easy! Enter your discount code in the 'How Did You Hear About Us?' box without any other numbers or characters for an additional 5% savings. Discounts cannot be applied to shipping, gift certificates, or to an order once it is marked as shipped.

There was no 2008 model Journey, started 2009 model year. Date of manufacture could be 2008, but it would be considered a 2009. Oem part is out of stock, two aftermarket listed. I would reset all plugs first with battery unhooked, might clear it long enough for your inspection. Might be safer to get number off your actual part before ordering, not a cheap part. Good luck. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,interior,air+bag+clockspring,10480

Crude but helpful pic.

How about a cyclops light instead of amber lights. Mmmmm. https://jalopnik.com/subaru-once-offered-the-best-factory-lighting-option-kn-1848387143

Thanks for the follow up, helpful info for the site. Tough time for this kind of major expense on a low mileage car really.

Specs say rear diff and open. 2019 Dodge Journey SPECIFICATIONS - Amazon S3 https://s3.amazonaws.com › mediasite › specs › 2... PDF 2019 DODGE JOURNEY | SPECIFICATIONS ... Electronically controlled coupling(ECC) with variable torque output. Rear Differential. Open. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Always start with scanning for codes, guessing gets expensive. Milage on car helpful, any recent service work completed.? Sometimes guessing with cheap wear items like the $25 CPS crank position sensor is ok; cheaper than a diagnostic fee. Doesnt always set a code.

Here is a discussion of the AWD system from the service manual, which I found to be quite interesting and informative: The all-wheel-drive system requires no driver input or control. Under most driving conditions, it is passive and power is transmitted to the front wheels alone. The system functions to optimize traction and handling under the following conditions: Anticipates slip by responding to pedal position unlike all-wheel drive systems that rely on pumps or viscous fluids to transfer torque, the system requires no front-to-rear slippage for activation. This allows the system to transfer torque in response to accelerator pedal position. If the driver is asking for a lot of power, the system immediately starts clamping the Electronically Controlled Coupling (ECC), transferring a high percentage of power to the rear wheels. This avoids front wheel slippage, as power to propel the car is transmitted through all four tires. This mode of operation is called open-loop operation in that there is no feedback to affect the torque transfer. Modulates torque to optimize traction on slippery surfaces a second, closed loop, operating mode uses feedback from the wheel-speed sensors to determine the appropriate torque transfer. When the front wheels slip, the all-wheel-drive electronic control module tells the ECC to start clamping, sending power to the rear wheels. Attempting the same aggressive launch described above with the front wheels on ice and the rear wheels on dry pavement, the ECC sends even more torque to the rear wheels to minimize slippage and launch the vehicle. Both modes are always active and the maximum of the two is chosen. Power to the rear wheels is modulated during lost of traction while traveling at freeway speeds; for example, hydroplaning on a puddle of water, will send very little power to the rear wheels because the controller knows at those speeds a lot of power is not needed at the rear wheels. Prevents binding during low-speed turns a third condition, which is independent of the others, uses the ESP steering angle sensor to determine when the vehicle is turning in a tight circle. This condition causes the electronic control module to reduce torque to the rear wheels to prevent binding in the driveline. The electronic control module is always checking for this condition as well. Influences handling at moderate speeds. The AWD system is used to influence vehicle dynamics. Other manufacturers limit AWD to aiding traction or providing off-road capability. They concentrate on launching the vehicle or going off road at speeds up to about 25 mph (40 km/hr). Above that speed range, they use it to limit wheel slip for traction. Additional ECM calibration controls torque to the rear wheels for improved handling in the 25-65 mph (40-105 km/hr) range. In this speed range, the system utilizes torque to the rear wheels during cornering with the throttle open to make the car turn more easily – make the handling more neutral. This is more readily accomplished with an electronically controlled system, than with viscous-coupling or gerotor systems that require some degree of front-to-rear slip to transfer torque to the rear wheels. Above 53 mph (113 km/hr), the control strategy provides minimal torque to the rear wheels under normal driving conditions to aid fuel economy. Works with ESP and Traction Control the electronic control module also interfaces with the ESP and traction control systems. The interface allows the ESP system to use the ECC to help gain control of the vehicle. For this purpose, torque transmitted to the rear wheels by the ECC can be reduced. The AWD system is not traction control. It only works on situations where front-torear traction varies, for instance, front wheels on ice, rear wheels on dry pavement or climbing steep grades. AWD does not aid side-to-side traction. ESP does that through brake intervention.

No center diff on Journey, rear diff, front ptu and front transaxle built into automatic transmission like on most front wheel drive cars. Viscous coupling is bolted on front of rear diff, not on center diff like Jeep’s etc. It actually works pretty good in deep snow and icy roads. Need to keep an eye out for leaks on awd components on all vehicles, very expensive to run something dry and blow it up for rebuild/replacement. Turning off traction control is the first step if stuck with awd, most people seem to forget that. Owners manual has some specific details on how the awd is set up.

Is it a new battery in the car now. Low voltage can cause weird electrical glitzes to turn up. If you read through all the posts it’s seems removing driver door cover and resetting electrical plugs is worth trying. Latch mechanism which has electrical plug was changed in some cases and fixed problem. Trouble shooting needs to be done.