John/Horace

There are additives you can add to glycol that will indicate if this is happening. The 3.6 is more prone to this problem.

Doesn’t have an oil filter or the cap included it looks like. Old cap from plastic unit should just move over to alum unit. The new plastic units all come with new oil temp and pressure switch’s which you will also have to move over. Make sure to use Teflon tape or pipe thread compound. The alum/magnesium unit is probably made in China by Dorman. If you could get it direct from one of the China on line sites, Alibaba Aliexpress, Focalprice etc might be cheaper. The plastic heat exchanger failures seemed focused around 2014-2015 years when new oil filter and housing design came out. Some owners have failures during warranty period. People have speculated some failures came from someone trying to use old style wrong filter. My Journey was bought used and leak started a year after purchase. Was careful to use correct filter. I never found a crack I could see; seemed like oring failure caused the leak. Radiators have been all plastic side tanks and aluminum cooling fins for years now. They often last life of car. The all copper rads often didn’t do that. Improvements in glycol mix additives might be reason for that change. Not sure.

The lower control arm that shows up with lots of rust, is a solid cast material. Most cars use sheet meta which is much weaker and surface rust like that would matter. So yeah, kinda normal. Rust spray in front/rear fender wells helps a lot.

Have you tried cycling parking brake a bit, between bleeding cycles. I replaced rear calipers on a 2014, took a lot of time to get air out. They don’t like pads being at 1/4 material wear left, , new pads strangely helped pedal height and feel. Abs sometimes needs pulsing via hand held diagnostic unit if it has a lot of trapped air. But usually it’s ok. Abs pump could be some how allowing air in. Dealer not necessarily being straight with you.

My wife has a 2014 for a few years now. The Bluetooth can be querky at times. There is an iPhone 8 and an LG Android one paired and functional right now. Maybe newer Bluetooth 5 device might need update applied, not sure. Here is a link for a site with free unconnect software updates, you need a blank 4G jump drive. Try and pair older phone and if it won’t pair, probably blue tooth module. They have been know to fail, good luck. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

Can you show nav or Sirius Xm radio functioning, with today’s date. Thanks.

I think your referring to the upstream catalytic converter in picture. It’s bolted to cylinder head on one end, exhaust manifold is integrated into the head. Either heat shield or flange bolts could have come loose. Normal slight movement of engine makes parts bang together. Warranty should cover it

Hard to say with out more info from diagnostics. Try not to run it or you may get stuck, or do more damage. I’ll guess a/c compressor bearings. That would be pricy, hope it’s something cheaper.

Intermittent no start can have a lot of causes. Scanning for stored codes, even if no dash light is a good start.

A whole new brake system is kinda vague. Itemized list ? Like stated by OP a low master cylinder fluid level and one bad wheel sensor can turn those lights on. Is pedal going to the floor, are brakes still working. Stored codes from ecm is always the place to start. Any recent brake work done, mileage on car ?

If scanner screen is coming on then usually you have actual 12 volt power and fuse is not the issue. Is the ignition cycled to run position so full cluster lights are on, this creates link to obd2 reader for data transfer. Is this scanner functional on other vehicles? Fuses for most stuff are on passenger side kick plate area, behind black square plastic cover.

That’s why I was asking about both gauges. If the analogue sweep gauge beside steering on left is at half, then it is running normal and probably ok. Digital gauge just wrong. The main engine thermostat for cylinder head is 205 F, so 240 is high and electric fan should probably be running and car over heating. 205 F is the start to open temp so it will over shoot a little. I didn’t change temp sender in cooling assembly, just moved it over to the new housing on daughter in law car, swapped oring. Fix was just for leaking seal issue. Even Mopar sender is only $23. A cylinder head gasket leak could allow air into system and cause overheating. Pressure relief would be venting as well. Hope it’s just a band sending probe.

Why does hose have to be changed as well. Different size hose barbs.? Or part orientation, curious. Gates makes a lot of oem stuff, generally not bad. I hate taking chances on critical electrical parts like crank or cam sensors, if oem is only 20% or so more, and in stock I usually buy it.

Driver door developed quite a clunk on opening. Found a lot of play in lower door hinge rivet part. Awkward access and not a threaded fastener I could replace. Mopar part from Rock was $77 can plus $14 shipping. Swap out took about 30 mins using a floor jack to support door. Lining up so latch meets cleanly took extra time. Open end 13mm wrench and 1/4” drive 10mm socket and small pry bar. Nice and quiet now. It was a sales rep vehicle bought used, drivers door was also backed into once. Dent was fixed. Match marks for old hinge help aligning new hinge faster.

One bolt less is small savings on part, although labour saving on assembly. But brand new injection molds for part to be made wouldn’t be cheap. Doesnt sound like cost saving really. 3.6 is used across the FCA Stelantis line up, maybe stronger part for Jeep’s etc. Havent changed mine yet, bought a Rockauto after market recently.

My daughter in laws 2012 heat/cool manifold had a small leak which is why I changed it. The Gates assembly came with a new large 1.5” diamo ring for back pipe connection. Cooling temp probe on top is reused and moved over to new assembly, new small 3/8” ish oring for that was not included. Found one on a universal oring assortment kit I have. Buna material. If you buy each gasket and oring and thermostat and thermostat seal individually, it’s more than double the cost. There will be a Mopar assembly available as well.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2013,journey,3.6l+v6,1505070,electrical-switch+&+relay,neutral+safety+switch+/+range+sensor,4584

Besides fluid pan filter and solenoid, I would consider changing neutral safety switch while you are in there. Wear item. Not expensive, around $40 oem on Rockauto.

If he falls off…as they say, Darwin gets a few. Natural selection. https://www.thedrive.com/news/43080/speed-camera-catches-aussie-man-riding-on-the-hood-having-a-beer-at-76-mph

Are both gauges showing the high temperature, is what I was asking. Always start with making sure glycol level is ok, leaks can cause low level and temp variances. If you are changing thermostats ( they are a wear item and it may be your problem) buy the coolant assembly that has both engine and cabin temperature thermostats in it, cheaper way. This assembly tends to leak at higher mileage, it did on daughter in laws 2.4 engine. Assembly not hard to swap, took me about an hour total. Temperature gauge can be moved over to new assembly, it doesn’t come included with new set up. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,2.4l+l4,3038628,cooling+system,thermostat+housing+/+water+outlet,10337

Analogue dash gauge or cluster exact digital temperature.

And plug is just for assembling car on the line. So heat shrink and soldering wires together after removing plug works. Just lots of labor and 0.49 in materials. My kind of fix. Those rear defroster strips must use lot of current to melt a bad connection.

Cool you found it. Rear seat belt cover means behind plastic cover on what side of car. Thanks for follow up.

There are dozens of reasons why remote start won’t work. No check engine light doesn’t mean there aren’t any codes. Get someone with an obd scanner to check and gives any codes if they show up. The hood switch is most common thing to disable remote start. It’s on passenger side right up close to grill, mounted on sheet metal. Try cycling a few times then hold it down firmly and press start button twice. It might not be getting enough pressure. Looks similar to switch in picture, without the bulb. Could have dirty contacts, contact cleaner spray might help. I don’t think 4 ways flashing is related, but it’s possible.

A 1973:VW thing, very cool weird design. Super beetle 1600 cc air cooled motor in it. Sealed beam no bulb headlights.