John/Horace

The Jeep Patriot was the 2.4 with a cvt, Matsushita brand that’s Nissan owned. Better mileage but weird drive feeling, I have driven one. Compared to a dated 4 speed, most cvt are an improvement.

For fluid level use the cluster temp reading on 62TE transmission. Could make up own dipstick using random wrecker eng oil stick and paint marks. If you want to do a pan-drop and filter change, replacing the fluid with the factory-recommended fluid, here are the temperature vs levels:

Correct 2032:battery, 2016 or 2025 which are thinner won’t work.

Stalling without a code can be CPS sensor sometimes. Shuts off too quick to log code. Get NTK or an oem one if you do it. Plugs are due for change and can affect gas mileage and starting. Waiting for cylinder misfire which proves coil or plug is bad not great for catalytic converters. Make sure to use double platinum or iridium plugs. Intake manifold gasket change at same time is a good idea, not expensive. No transmissions are really sealed. It’s just marketing bs for sales purposes. There is always a way to change/add fluid and usually filter. The 6 speed has a filter but pan needs removing. Refill with exact amount of ATF+4 that was removed. Rear diff and front ptu are over due for 75w90 oil change as well, if awd model. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2013,journey,3.6l+v6,1505070,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

That’s great it’s running now. Must be a slow leak some where. Cooling lines most common source of leaks. Could only be a drip but loss is cumulative. If warranty push for root cause of problem. Is it a 4 or 6 speed tranny. No dipstick makes 6 leaks more critical to fix properly. Oil doesn’t evaporate.

Important to not just swap fuse if blown. Alternator could have grounded out and taken out fuse. Use meter to test alternator is not grounded out with a multi meter. Not common failure, but possible. Alternator might even smell burnt.

You mentioned mega fuse. Most cars have a 150 ish amp main fuse right at positive terminal, or sometimes in main fuse panel. Check it for continuity, not easy to buy fuse. Battery light coming on meant ecm saw less than 12 volts. If main fuse blew or alternator stopped charging this would occur. Try charging battery for a few hours if not showing 12.3-12.7. Yes small wire on solenoid at starter will only get 12 power when the key is being held in start position. Big wire carrying start power. always has 12 volts.

Mitchel on line login for a month not that pricy. All torque specs and assembly instructions for pretty much all cars. Lots of shops have a subscription.

Rebel9 your 1965 was 6 volt system unless you converted to 12. Solid front axle and torsion bar rear no macpherson struts. I loved the 60’s chrome trim bugs. The gas heaters if you ever got one were hilarious. I sold my 1971 super bettle gas heater to a construction crane guy for more than what car was worth when scrapping it. They ran with a glow plug and their own tiny electric fuel pump. The rear exhaust heat exchangers didn’t produce much heat because they were usually rotted out by salt. It was amazing how well they handled the deep snow with the skinny tall factory tires.

The grinding rubbing sounds concern me. Although it might turn over afterwards, I hope timing belt has not jumped. Piston can bend valves and kill cylinder head on interference engines. Usually 100k or 5 yrs old for belt change interval. If it’s just a starting with key issue. When starter is back in,, jumper the two contacts on starter, I think 85 and 87. They bypass key switch , security,Park neutral switch etc. If it turns over it’s one of by passed items. Could also try starting in neutral.

Should be codes for torque converter etc that indicate major transmission problems. No just engine and wheel sensor lights and codes. If no warranty, second option even if tow involved.My 3 cents.

Had a 1969 rag top for three weeks that I flipped for 300% more money offer. I was in college and needed the cash. Top needed replacing any way. Also a 1971 Westphalia for a little while as well. Duel Sollex carbs, what a bear to set up. Bettle total was 5, I converted a 3 speed semi automatic to a regular 4 speed std over a thanksgiving long weekend. It leaked so much fluid I was given orders by dad to ditch it or fix it. Semi auto parts were too scarce. I still prefer metric cars because it’s what I started on first. Oh yeah the thing, never even sat in one, very cool for its time.

In North America. From wiki, cut and pasted, a Mitsubishi 2.7 engine I believe. Map versus maf sensor might matter for engine management controls. Auto wrecker/recycler guys usually have a good handle of this capability. Engine Gasoline: 2.4 L World I4 2.7 L LH V6 3.5 L EGF V6[3] 3.6 L Pentastar V6 Diesel: 2.0 L VW TDI I4 2.0 L MultiJet II I4 Transmission 4-speed Ultradrive 40TESautomatic 5-speed Magna T355 manual 6-speed Aisin BG6 manual 6-speed Fiat C635 manual 6-speed Getrag Mps6 DCTautomatic 6-speed Ultradrive 62TEautomat

My first car was a very beat up 1969 beetle. I rolled the car with door open and jumped in and dumped clutch to manually start it several times. The trick was to not do a Flinstone and drive over your self with your own car. Pull start would have been safer, didn’t know it existed. Beetle engine exhaust was the trickiest thing to work on. Four wrenches you could disassemble the whole car I think.

With plug change it’s safer to change these gaskets out. They get compressed and don’t always seal as well on reuse, not pricy. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2018,journey,3.6l+v6,3440326,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424 If changing them out, good opportunity to do a compression test on #2. Remove fuel pump relay and proper test is all plugs removed. To do accurately can be finicky if you haven’t done one before. I hope it’s not a valve/cylinder head issue, but it’s possible. Injectors seldom go in my experience, clicking is good..means energizing so signal from ecm is getting there. The two upstream O2 sensors are critical for fuel mix and affect drive ability and fuel economy. Down stream confirm cats are working properly, so more emissions related. Misfire from unburnt fuel could cause this code. Some people automatically change upstream as a wear item at around 100k without waiting for failure codes. Fuel savings add up quick. NTK are same as oem sensor. I would confirm compression and swap intake gaskets first and see if goes away. Your ☎️.

Even grinding off paint around the grounds to bare metal, then a light coat of dielectric grease can help. Salt belt cars have more issues with this. On copper connection, clean means shiny bare metal. Scratch the point of meter probes on surface of remote contacts under hood. If functioning right there is a small loss from top battery post, approx 0.3 volts, not 9. Load test battery in car as well. Need at least 300 cranking amps to properly start, 12.5 volts only useful with amperage as well.

Who changed the plugs. We’re the intake manifold gaskets replaced during the sequence. Extra air coming in from bad gasket can cause a code like this. It’s low mileage, but gasket can get pinched or damaged. A compression test would be useful on this cylinder. Wet test and leak down. Valve seat issue etc can cause misfire. injector firing needs a node light, although screw driver against housing and listening for clicking from activation can be done.

The diesel Journey never made it to this side of the North Atlantic. So none of us have ever even seen one. That 2.0 common rail diesel was used in multiple FCA vehicles, so I wouldn’t restrict my info search to just Journeys. Cheers good luck.

Canadian Journey come with factory block heater. Using a timer they are a bit more cost/environmentally friendly for fast warm up in extreme cold. But you need 120 outlet access and yeah not as convenient. Running engine for minute or two is better for oil lubricated mechanical component live span. The switch under hood could be jumpered with a piece of wire temporarily to see if it’s the problem source. Wire harness feed from switch needs to send proper value signal. Not an expensive item, easy diy fix.

Any follow up. Did you locate used ptu or keep driving as a 2 wheel drive only.

Congratulations….very good pun. I have had decent luck with Asian vehicles in general. At least your resale is up a lot with this market. Could you give a rough break down of the maint you have done on the two vehicles. Just general info for site. Cheers good luck with purchase.

Canada never sold diesel Journey as far as I know. Tire sealant called slime is bright green. Brake fluid is colour of clean oil, slight brown. Power steering is usually light brown or red if ATF+4 is being used and fresh. Transmission fluid used in newer Stellantis vehicle ZF transmissions is bright green and shows up with UV light. No Journey vehicle should use this fluid. Where did the fluid come from, location might be good clue.

Fuse 131 in panel.

Blue tooth module bad (staying on) is most common over night drain. Pull that fuse first, search there are post's on site about that. I think 14.7 slightly high, but cheap hand held multi meters are not always super accurate. Find parasitic drain issue first.