John/Horace

How many miles on car. Has it been scanned for codes, often a good starting point. Might be time to have a shop look at it, guessing gets expensive. Maybe TIPM module . It can be bypassed with a temporary home made harness to prove if it is problem, pricy part to buy. If lightning bolt symbol electronic throttle body can prevent starting, but there should be codes usually. Also a pricy part to buy. Are the injectors firing, the plugs should be wet with fuel. A stretched timing chain could prevent starting, not easy to check. Need to line up timing marks on crank and cams. Probably codes from this type of problem as well. Not a common issue unless really high mileage.

Welcome to the forum. Do you have any steering wheel controls at all ? The Bluetooth module inside dash would also be needed, it’s very pricy and uconnect Bluetooth is not great, even when it’s working. Some people go with aftermarket units with better working Bluetooth. My experience is most dealers aren’t very interested in trying to retro fit non factory installed options. Maybe your local dealer is different; you would have to ask them. A recent poster added an aftermarket dash unit that had better Bluetooth, aftermarket camera ability, screen mirroring and all kinds of other capability. Might be worth looking at.

Very impressive install, great pics. No hand cuts from dash work, also amazing ?. Does the factory console USB jack stay functional and the second corded USB input in pic act as another input? No issues with heated seats and heated steering wheel , you have them correct. If you don’t have a factory back up camera already and only bumper back up sensors; you can plug and play an aftermarket cam without any extra programming ? With screen mirroring and data so cheap now, you could just run Waze which has reasonable traffic updates ; forget about the factory nav altogether. Nice to have both options. Thanks again for all the info.

Light electrical parts like op is looking make them worth looking at. Shipping cost not as big. Heavy stuff like rotors or struts, usually not worth it.

It’s a some what fragile part in an awkward spot. I’m not surprised they get broken. Rockauto, who I don’t work for are a great source of oem and after market parts. Good selection and prices. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2011,journey,3.6l+v6,3015205,electrical,battery+temperature+sensor,10478

Looks nice, more solid unit. The stainless steel plate heat exchanger and sensors all move over I guess. Use t-tape or pipe dope on sensor threads before reinstalling from your old plastic cooler. Thanks for the pics.

TCC solenoid maybe.

Here is wife’s 3.6 engine, the alt has the plastic cover held on top top studs with two nuts. That cover was added on all models by FCA in 2015 I believe. Prevents oil or glycol from contaminating alt assembly. Alt will only come out through bottom easily. But clutch pulley is not against frame rail, so changing just pulley I think would be a lot easier than the 2.4 engine. On 2.4 if the engine mounts were partly removed and engine raised from below, you could do the pulley with alt still mounted in place. On both alternator changes I think it’s easiest to remove the closest surpentine belt idler pulley for more room.

By coincidence I have daughter in laws 2.4 in driveway right now visiting. Removing clutch pulley in place looks crappy. Very little room to frame rail for tools, , but removing alt up through top or bottom decent room.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical,alternator+/+generator+pulley,2448 The factory alt is Denso brand. A very good manufacturer of car components. Some dealers stock reman units at competitive price. Maybe parts store with tool loan it program will have the removal kit. It’s around $100 ish for whole thing on Rock for a Gates set. Removing alt is not a difficult job really, around an hour when I changed it on my wife’s 3.6 engine. Have to dump glycol to get hose out of the way. Removing pulley in place doable but awkward. My 2 cents.

Is the car still in warranty.?How many miles on it? Removing the aftermarket alarm system would have been a logical starting point. Now you may have another issue, or the real issue. Have it scanned for codes All the problems may be caused by one part, like a bad electronic throttle body unit.

Yeah separate division I think. They started out making parts before vehicles. Walter P Chrysler was a banker who took them over. A flu pandemic took out the brothers. Mmmm.

The brothers would be proud, John and Horace both.

A decent muffler shop should be able to use a small section of 2” metal pipe which they call a sleeve; they then mig weld around both ends to the existing pipe. Minimal part cost but a bit of labor. Not all shops will do this kind of repair; some of them want to replace flange to flange connections. Much easier and more profitable. Smaller garages not chain repair shops are a better bet in my experience. Glad your cats were saved, very pricy items to buy.

How many miles on car. Has pan filter and oil ever been changed before. No dipstick makes it a bit harder to figure out exact level, Dorman makes an aftermarket dip stick that comes with a temperature chart to figure out correct level. Although any old dipstick could be marked off and used. Still need chart for temp versus level, it is on the site, search. If pan filter is plugged up might make pump cavitate, which can cause whining noise.

What oil change done on which component. Did Tec changing oil mention if there was metal particles on the magnetic drain plug. The one piece drive shaft has a hanger bearing close to where noise is coming from. It has to be replaced as a unit, pricy around $650 just for part. Could be removed and car driven to see if it’s source of the problem. But I dont think that would trigger a service light. The rear differential has a sensor with a plug going to wire harness, There is a clutch that engages the awd. Several bearings in the diff that can wear out and make clunking noises. Focus on the gear box that has metal contaminated oil, as a start. Lots of components in awd system can create clunking noises.

How many miles on vehicle. Any recent maint completed. Has the front ptu and rear transfer case ever had fluid changes. Owners manual specs around 60k miles I believe. Any signs of leakage on driveway. Is traction control light also on, or just service awd.

Only way on these rear calipers is to rotate pistons inward. Either needle nose pliers or a rear caliper retracting tool. Smear of sylglide on inside of rubber boot so rubber doesn’t tear helps. But he said calipers are new anyway and rotors are locking properly with pedal pressure. So much work on system makes it tricky to find source of problem.

I would go straight to dealer if possible. Maybe tow if you have triple A coverage etc. No sure about warranty, I think so. Maybe someone else can comment on that. Not located anywhere near Huston. Replacement needs transmission removal; inspection is done through access port with transmission still in car. Flex plate issues are pretty rare; but expensive to fix.

I was also taught by licensed mechanics to not force old dirty fluid through abs system when pushing piston back. Two light raps on bleeder screw with small hammer ( helps in salt belt areas) and loosen bleeder screw before retracting piston. Catch small amount of old fluid in a metal container. Brake reservoir cap loosened before procedure. Top up reservoir with fresh fluid after cycling pedal at completion of caliper/pads installation. So correct reservoir level can be established after piston has extended again.

Should be close enough. Sometimes fender liner has to be removed, better than cutting hole in it.

So you were told flex plate is cracked by a dealer ? Should have asked for a picture of it. I had grub screws on flex plate back off on a Jeep XJ I had years ago. Created a funny rattle only, I got off easy with loctite. Some where on bell housing is a small access door, either black plastic or maybe. Might have a faster or just snap in place. I’ll try to find a pic.

There is an inspection cover on transmission for confirming flex plate is cracked, or grub screws have backed off. Not that labor intensive. However, big labor to replace flex plate. If cracked flex plate fails at speed, could destroy tranny bell housing etc on vehicle. Even more expensive mess.

Haaapppy thanks giving to the neighbour’s. Turkey feasts are great with family. You need to hold close the important stuff in these weird times. Tire studs are amazing, I’m jealous. My part of state/province only allows them much farther North. Verboten in Niagara area. I had carbide track studs on a few snowmobiles I rode up North, it’s like driving on train tracks for handling. Its always takes more patience and skill to keep used cars for a reasonable life span of miles. Some of us like the challenge. Nice sunny day needed for that heater core change. My old neighbor was a licensed body mechanic. He watched me years ago, do a 1988 Aero-nostar dash removal. He said it’s better to do it yourself anyway. Lots of Tec’s rush and end up with a spare handful of screws and you end up with forever dash rattles. But I’m sure you already know that. Cheers.