John/Horace

Welcome to the site. The voltage regulator is integrated into the alternator. So the new/rebuilt alternator would have changed it probably. How much voltage was old alternator putting out? Battery can take over charging for a short time, I wouldn’t change it yet unless it’s not holding a charge. A bad alternator can cause a battery to go flat by itself. But more likely there is something drawing power over night. You could remove one fuse at a time and see if amperage draw can be isolated to one circuit only. Top of fuse has two small points to measure power on circuit as well. Meter needs to be set to milli amp setting, internal meter fuse usually 10 amps and easy to zap. If you remove battery post and carefully measure amp draw for whole system it should be approx 100 mill amps after 15 mins sitting.

You must have seen this posting about heater core issues. Heater core is same on all journeys I think. Maybe take another run at air removal. As you know swapping core awkward and nasty. Going with 17” rims is good idea, 19” kinda pricy tires.

Also confirm alternator output. Although 14.4 sounds good at idle. You can do a simple quick load test yourself. You need to turn on a few high draw accessories and watch voltage drop with car running. Should stay over 13.7 ish if alternator is good. Scratch the probes a little on those remote battery points to get a good connection. As already mentioned, make sure no signs of greenish corrosion on any of battery connections.

Just curious, did repair bill state BCM body (ground) control module was replaced. Glad is working so far.

If you pay $55 for battery report. It should state cranking amp capacity of battery from a load test. When compared to a new battery spec it gives you an idea of wear on battery. Two years is not old for a battery IMO. But if abused and run flat multiple times, it could have lost capacity. Amp on radio draws a lot of power. Just use a rechargeable blue tooth speaker if you sit in car for long periods. AGM style battery recharge quicker and can sit without losing charge as much, without load. . More money but worth considering. If you are a car owner, having a battery charger is often useful.

Metal shavings in the ptu oil was mentioned. Could check for it first with dump and fill, refill through vent tube easiest. Just under a quart of 75w90 oil in unit. Removing drive shaft might take load off gear box, also prove noise source. People have driven without shaft temporarily in two wheel drive. Dump rear diff oil as well and make sure it’s ok before fixing front ptu. Normal for some fur on drain plug magnet, but no large metal shavings.

If it’s the 6 speed 62te tranny it’s at # 114-116 section on link. Lots of annoying adverts. It’s 40 inch pounds for filter fasteners, 53 for pan bolts. No 2.7 engine sold over here, but tranny could be the same. https://cardiagn.com/2009-15-journey-62te-service-information/

Welcome to forum, Sounds like a design flaw, nice you figured it out. This problem has come a lot of times of this forum. With the newer glycols being used now; plugged cooling systems are pretty rare now I think. The Chrysler orange fluid looked like new when I changed it during a pump/thermostat housing change (turned out to be bad pump gasket, not pump bearing) at 150k Kms. I assume ph and additives are probably not right so new stuff was used. There was no signs of scale or deposits anywhere in system. Mixing wrong glycols….can make a mess though.

Welcome to the site. Yes there is a coupling in the rear. Did he drain the diff oil and look for metal particles.? How many miles on vehicle? If you search this site, coupling can be changed by itself if it’s the only problem on the rear diff. Driving it the way it is can damage components. A shop could remove the rear drive shaft temporarily so car can still be safely driven temporarily. Dealer will probably refuse to because it’s not very profitable. Save the drive shaft, $700-800 to replace. AWD repairs can be very pricy. People often have shops use parts from auto recyclers/wreckers. Look for a transmission or 4x4 repair shop if possible. Not really a mini lube mechanic repair job.

There was a recall on cat converters on some 2.4 Journeys. Daughter in law got a new one no charge on a 2012 last year from dealer. They were failing internally so emissions testing wasn’t passing standards. Looks like 2009 not covered, crap.

CVT are here to stay because of hybrid designs (more compatible). Even Honda makes one. Saying no cvt is like saying no turbo, getting impossible unfortunately. Simple older design like Journey stuck around for a reason.

Air has to be getting back in system some how. 2011 so maybe a corroded line with a pin hole. Bleed it again and leave the wheels off overnight on a hoist. Press pedal in the morning and have someone try and turn each wheel with brakes on. If there is not at a visible leak, then wheel or wheels that can still be turned are allowing air back in. Examine every inch of metal line on that wheel. I like nickel copper line for replacement, easiest to work with. Are you using a pressure bleeder or just manual bleeding.?

Maybe try another shop. Or cheap end of parts guessing. Intake throttle body can get dirty and cause bogging without a code, on occasion. Cleaning with intake spray cleaner will often make it slightly better, or cause problem to temporarily go away. Pointing you in the right direction, to change a not crazy expensive item. If spray has no effect, wait for bogging to get bad enough to set an actual code. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,2.4l+l4,3353539,fuel+&+air,throttle+body,6472

Used turbos would concern me a little bit. Hard to stay away from in ICE engines now, older technology so you would think robust, but not really. At least in new car you can flip by 4-5 years or 120 miles and less likely be on the hook for a remanufactured turbo to be installed. Not a typical diy repair, and can be very pricy. I stealth the volt forums, family member has one, may see you there, cheers.

Need to use guest login and just follow menu’s.

This site shows they interchange, more than one style options to match up, fogs , grill style etc. Led tail light swapable to them selves, reg bulbs as well. https://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/base/welcome.php?year=2010&make=DODGE&model=JOURNEY

Yeah at speed flex plate fracture might have taken out bell housing on tranny. I’m also curious about the damaged intake manifold Pars1val, we’re you able to repair it or did you buy a recycler part.

Thanks for the follow up info, great for the site. Those lines are cracks I guess, have never seen anything like that, wow. Cherry picker from above on motor, or tranny/subframe drop from below for flywheel access, curious. Your obviously beyond a typical diy guy to be tackling a repair like this in your driveway.?

It’s hard when no codes come up. I have seen intake throttle control valve cause no code bogging before on other vehicles. It’s a small stepper motor , not a cable set up any more. Usually a higher mileage issue. Not trying to encourage throwing parts at it.

I changed wife’s two years ago with oem plastic. My leak came from bad gaskets it think, no sign of a crack. Wast aware of aluminium option. This Kit also Comes with intake gaskets, not bad price at $180 can pesos. . There are aluminum coolant replacement parts that are originally plastic as well. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12899725&jsn=273

Wow that’s a ton of damage, glad you walked away. I have had close calls with deer/moose but have been lucky. With the air bags intact, I agree with Rebel it will probably end up back on the road. Sounds like you did well with the numbers. Good luck in your next automotive selection. It was nice having you here, cheers.

I’ve had it with other vehicles before, our journey ok so far. On a Chevy we had I added several extra vent holes with a drill bit, it fixed problem 80%. There is a clear automotive glue called PL6000 that I find a bit better than silicone. Could also try that.

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