John/Horace

Here is best link for awd coupling replacement by it self. Can be bought separate.

Here is a discussion of the AWD system from the service manual, which I found to be quite interesting and informative: The all-wheel-drive system requires no driver input or control. Under most driving conditions, it is passive and power is transmitted to the front wheels alone. The system functions to optimize traction and handling under the following conditions: Anticipates slip by responding to pedal position unlike all-wheel drive systems that rely on pumps or viscous fluids to transfer torque, the system requires no front-to-rear slippage for activation. This allows the system to transfer torque in response to accelerator pedal position. If the driver is asking for a lot of power, the system immediately starts clamping the Electronically Controlled Coupling (ECC), transferring a high percentage of power to the rear wheels. This avoids front wheel slippage, as power to propel the car is transmitted through all four tires. This mode of operation is called open-loop operation in that there is no feedback to affect the torque transfer. Modulates torque to optimize traction on slippery surfaces a second, closed loop, operating mode uses feedback from the wheel-speed sensors to determine the appropriate torque transfer. When the front wheels slip, the all-wheel-drive electronic control module tells the ECC to start clamping, sending power to the rear wheels. Attempting the same aggressive launch described above with the front wheels on ice and the rear wheels on dry pavement, the ECC sends even more torque to the rear wheels to minimize slippage and launch the vehicle. Both modes are always active and the maximum of the two is chosen. Power to the rear wheels is modulated during lost of traction while traveling at freeway speeds; for example, hydroplaning on a puddle of water, will send very little power to the rear wheels because the controller knows at those speeds a lot of power is not needed at the rear wheels. Prevents binding during low-speed turns a third condition, which is independent of the others, uses the ESP steering angle sensor to determine when the vehicle is turning in a tight circle. This condition causes the electronic control module to reduce torque to the rear wheels to prevent binding in the driveline. The electronic control module is always checking for this condition as well. Influences handling at moderate speeds. The AWD system is used to influence vehicle dynamics. Other manufacturers limit AWD to aiding traction or providing off-road capability. They concentrate on launching the vehicle or going off road at speeds up to about 25 mph (40 km/hr). Above that speed range, they use it to limit wheel slip for traction. Additional ECM calibration controls torque to the rear wheels for improved handling in the 25-65 mph (40-105 km/hr) range. In this speed range, the system utilizes torque to the rear wheels during cornering with the throttle open to make the car turn more easily – make the handling more neutral. This is more readily accomplished with an electronically controlled system, than with viscous-coupling or gerotor systems that require some degree of front-to-rear slip to transfer torque to the rear wheels. Above 53 mph (113 km/hr), the control strategy provides minimal torque to the rear wheels under normal driving conditions to aid fuel economy. Works with ESP and Traction Control the electronic control module also interfaces with the ESP and traction control systems. The interface allows the ESP system to use the ECC to help gain control of the vehicle. For this purpose, torque transmitted to the rear wheels by the ECC can be reduced. The AWD system is not traction control. It only works on situations where front-torear traction varies, for instance, front wheels on ice, rear wheels on dry pavement or climbing steep grades. AWD does not aid side-to-side traction. ESP does that through brake intervention.

Also on bottom of Dorman casting is fussy but legible made in USA lettering. Visible in one of the pics on rockauto. Confirms that this definitely the best option. I’ve used Dorman stuff lots of times, never had any issues. So much automotive is China now, I just assumed. Glad to be corrected.

Roackauto lists the pump and it’s out of stock. Little over a $100, not cheap.

Welcome to the site. What’s the rear diff oil look like.? The drain plug is magnetic, should be only be fur on it, no pieces of metal. Holds around 800 mililitres or 3/4 of a quart of 75w90 synthetic gear oil. People have had the rear diff fail on these vehicles. If you search site there are postings. Usually one of the lip seals leaks the oil out and it runs dry wrecking the internal bearings. Cheaper to buy a whole wrecker unit than rebuild the existing diff.

If your plugs are close to change interval. Good time to change them out when you are in there that deep. If metal part existed at time my wife’s failed, I may have gone with it. Metal is almost always superior to plastic. Curious, how many kilometres were the failures at. The oil pressure is surprisingly high on the 3.6 engine. Stay with 5w20 specified oil. Heat exchanger only has single O ring seals for oil, would have expected double seals. Operating range is 30 psi warm to 130 cold, 1200-3500 rpms (Haynes manual specs).. Multiply by 6.9 for conversion, so 206-896 for kpa.

There are additives you can add to glycol that will indicate if this is happening. The 3.6 is more prone to this problem.

Doesn’t have an oil filter or the cap included it looks like. Old cap from plastic unit should just move over to alum unit. The new plastic units all come with new oil temp and pressure switch’s which you will also have to move over. Make sure to use Teflon tape or pipe thread compound. The alum/magnesium unit is probably made in China by Dorman. If you could get it direct from one of the China on line sites, Alibaba Aliexpress, Focalprice etc might be cheaper. The plastic heat exchanger failures seemed focused around 2014-2015 years when new oil filter and housing design came out. Some owners have failures during warranty period. People have speculated some failures came from someone trying to use old style wrong filter. My Journey was bought used and leak started a year after purchase. Was careful to use correct filter. I never found a crack I could see; seemed like oring failure caused the leak. Radiators have been all plastic side tanks and aluminum cooling fins for years now. They often last life of car. The all copper rads often didn’t do that. Improvements in glycol mix additives might be reason for that change. Not sure.

The lower control arm that shows up with lots of rust, is a solid cast material. Most cars use sheet meta which is much weaker and surface rust like that would matter. So yeah, kinda normal. Rust spray in front/rear fender wells helps a lot.

Have you tried cycling parking brake a bit, between bleeding cycles. I replaced rear calipers on a 2014, took a lot of time to get air out. They don’t like pads being at 1/4 material wear left, , new pads strangely helped pedal height and feel. Abs sometimes needs pulsing via hand held diagnostic unit if it has a lot of trapped air. But usually it’s ok. Abs pump could be some how allowing air in. Dealer not necessarily being straight with you.

My wife has a 2014 for a few years now. The Bluetooth can be querky at times. There is an iPhone 8 and an LG Android one paired and functional right now. Maybe newer Bluetooth 5 device might need update applied, not sure. Here is a link for a site with free unconnect software updates, you need a blank 4G jump drive. Try and pair older phone and if it won’t pair, probably blue tooth module. They have been know to fail, good luck. https://www.driveuconnect.com/support/software-update.html

Can you show nav or Sirius Xm radio functioning, with today’s date. Thanks.

I think your referring to the upstream catalytic converter in picture. It’s bolted to cylinder head on one end, exhaust manifold is integrated into the head. Either heat shield or flange bolts could have come loose. Normal slight movement of engine makes parts bang together. Warranty should cover it

Hard to say with out more info from diagnostics. Try not to run it or you may get stuck, or do more damage. I’ll guess a/c compressor bearings. That would be pricy, hope it’s something cheaper.

Intermittent no start can have a lot of causes. Scanning for stored codes, even if no dash light is a good start.

A whole new brake system is kinda vague. Itemized list ? Like stated by OP a low master cylinder fluid level and one bad wheel sensor can turn those lights on. Is pedal going to the floor, are brakes still working. Stored codes from ecm is always the place to start. Any recent brake work done, mileage on car ?

If scanner screen is coming on then usually you have actual 12 volt power and fuse is not the issue. Is the ignition cycled to run position so full cluster lights are on, this creates link to obd2 reader for data transfer. Is this scanner functional on other vehicles? Fuses for most stuff are on passenger side kick plate area, behind black square plastic cover.

That’s why I was asking about both gauges. If the analogue sweep gauge beside steering on left is at half, then it is running normal and probably ok. Digital gauge just wrong. The main engine thermostat for cylinder head is 205 F, so 240 is high and electric fan should probably be running and car over heating. 205 F is the start to open temp so it will over shoot a little. I didn’t change temp sender in cooling assembly, just moved it over to the new housing on daughter in law car, swapped oring. Fix was just for leaking seal issue. Even Mopar sender is only $23. A cylinder head gasket leak could allow air into system and cause overheating. Pressure relief would be venting as well. Hope it’s just a band sending probe.

Why does hose have to be changed as well. Different size hose barbs.? Or part orientation, curious. Gates makes a lot of oem stuff, generally not bad. I hate taking chances on critical electrical parts like crank or cam sensors, if oem is only 20% or so more, and in stock I usually buy it.

Driver door developed quite a clunk on opening. Found a lot of play in lower door hinge rivet part. Awkward access and not a threaded fastener I could replace. Mopar part from Rock was $77 can plus $14 shipping. Swap out took about 30 mins using a floor jack to support door. Lining up so latch meets cleanly took extra time. Open end 13mm wrench and 1/4” drive 10mm socket and small pry bar. Nice and quiet now. It was a sales rep vehicle bought used, drivers door was also backed into once. Dent was fixed. Match marks for old hinge help aligning new hinge faster.

One bolt less is small savings on part, although labour saving on assembly. But brand new injection molds for part to be made wouldn’t be cheap. Doesnt sound like cost saving really. 3.6 is used across the FCA Stelantis line up, maybe stronger part for Jeep’s etc. Havent changed mine yet, bought a Rockauto after market recently.

My daughter in laws 2012 heat/cool manifold had a small leak which is why I changed it. The Gates assembly came with a new large 1.5” diamo ring for back pipe connection. Cooling temp probe on top is reused and moved over to new assembly, new small 3/8” ish oring for that was not included. Found one on a universal oring assortment kit I have. Buna material. If you buy each gasket and oring and thermostat and thermostat seal individually, it’s more than double the cost. There will be a Mopar assembly available as well.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2013,journey,3.6l+v6,1505070,electrical-switch+&+relay,neutral+safety+switch+/+range+sensor,4584

Besides fluid pan filter and solenoid, I would consider changing neutral safety switch while you are in there. Wear item. Not expensive, around $40 oem on Rockauto.

If he falls off…as they say, Darwin gets a few. Natural selection. https://www.thedrive.com/news/43080/speed-camera-catches-aussie-man-riding-on-the-hood-having-a-beer-at-76-mph