John/Horace

Any possibility of a Progress report. No reocurrence of sticking TCC solenoid ? Good site info. I bought a Dorman tranny pan with drain plug recently for my Ram. Bigger pan and mess compared to Journey. Can syphon 4 liters from journey quite easily.

Held in place and glued, then remove support and it's under load, and driving with vibration.. .a live load. White 100% silicone maybe,the clear is really weak I find. Moparcity or other on line dealers are way lower than list now for stuff. I like this E6000 clear automotive sealant. Needs over night curing, but great for plastics/vinyl. Beats silicone generally, around $5 a tube.

Hatchback headliner trim panel. I don't find clear silicone is very strong under load. Should be under warranty coverage, I would ask. Parts department could order correct clip, maybe get two. Flimsy trim is common on FCA vehicles.

Was car former rental or company fleet vehicle.? Maybe some kind of driving monitoring system tie in. Is wiring tied into obd port under dash.?

Ramps are good for getting safe and decent height. I haven't had to have the driveshaft off our journey yet. Flex coupling at the diff and cap screws at front I think. Some people match mark the mounts to avoid vibration issues on reinstall.

Ouch, that's tough. Hope the Insurance business treats you ok. Tricky time to switch vehicles.

Used Ptu on LKQ is an option. If really high mileage and vehicle tired, maybe not. Viscous coupling in rear diff is another common wear item if you haven't done it. Can be changed without removing diff, guy on site posted about it.

Cps is mounted on back tranny casing. Use Mitchel on line at shop for details. Good opportunity if you are keeping vehicle.

On pick ups tail stock pulls out of diff and oil will all leak out. This is a self contained unit and it's bolted directly on tranny. It's gear to gear drive. Input/output shafts fixed in place. Most transfer cases like New Process etc are chain driven units. If you have oil still in Ptu I wouldn't worry about driving it. Just pull drive shaft for now. If split casing won't hold oil and it's runnings dry. Then it needs removing a lot sooner before it grenades.

Change your crank position sensor if you have ptu removed. It's accessable with it off, only way to do it.

Don't have to cap, can drive as is. Shaft mounts stay in place, don't pull out. I haven't driven without ptu on a Journey. People have without drive shaft on journey (I have on jeeps). . No Ptu might be a first. I think it's doable...free advice worth everything you pay for it. ?

I'm a retired milright mechanic. But have always worked on cars. Wife has an RT for a few years. Haven't done much to the AWD. Just lip seals in rear diff. As long as rear diff has oil, it should be ok just free wheeling. Front ptu has a drain plug, could check for oil. Top vent is easiest way to refill oil back into unit . If it's not holding oil anymore, it will need to get pulled until you get a used one.

Not sure how long it ran dry for. So can't really speculate on time. It would be safer I think with drive shaft removed. Could just leave it as 2 wheel drive vehicle. Single plug on rear diff sends speed signal I think. As long as plugged in still shouldn't be dash light from traction control.

Front ptu casing is toast, can't be rebuilt. There was a quart of oil in it at one point. People buy used unit from wreckers normally. New it's pricy, around $950 US. If you work on Dodges, are you an apprentice?

The aluminum chunks aren't from drive shaft. The pic is from the front transfer case, or ptu, correct.

You would need a jack, jack stands and some open end wrenches. If you work on cars sometimes, it's the approx skill level of a brake job. Front flex coupling needs bolts removed, hanger bearing bracket and diff ujoint I guess. You shouldn't keep driving it like this.

Have you checked oil level on rear diff.? Was it changed at some point. Did the old bearing hub sound or feel ruff after it was removed?

You should have rear drive shaft removed. If front of shaft at ptu drops down you will pole vault when it digs into ground. Running with out oil in a gear box you run the risk of bearings seizing up. Mechanic could probably leave it safe to drive as a 2 wd. If rear diff sensor left hooked up,n o dash warning light.

Maybe pick up the hinged doors from an auto parts recycler. Metal blade in a Sawzall to cut sheet metal.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2021/08/08/how-to-save-countless-lives-with-explosives-aimed-straight-at-peoples-faces-when-gm-and-mercedes-introduced-the-airbag

If the studs aren't too rusted yet you might want to reinforce the other fastener locationsnow. Not later. I'm in rust belt so I had a harder time cleaning up studs. Fender washers allow just one washer, but enough thread there anyway. The underside of that journey from the peg is amazing, in first post. No salt, sigh.

https://kremerservices.net/2020/09/30/knowing-the-history-of-the-check-engine-or-service-engine-soon-light/

Welcome to forum. I have a 3.6 so different. Usually lowest pulley is crank shaft pulley. But yours looks different, are their hoses leading to this unit, if so its power steering pump. Maybe someone else with 2.4 can answer.

Pics? Might want to clean up threads on drain plug as same time, they have a tendency to seize up. My brothers did. Its not uncommon to have to remove exhaust on some engines for oil pan removal. Maybe jack up from underneath with a motor mount removed might gain clearance.

Yeah common. I've seen pie plates thicker than that crappy shield. Fender washers work great on the bigger holes.