Jump to content

John/Horace

Journey Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,774

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    177

 Content Type 

Everything posted by John/Horace

  1. John/Horace
    The NTK aftermarket are reasonable, they are the OEM supplier I think. Rockauto cheapest it seems. If you pull intake for rear plugs, the upstream is right there. That's when I changed wife's. Helps mileage a bit so Ido a little early sometimes.. Ramps another option.
  2. John/Horace
    How tight is the exhaust. I've seen pin holes in a flex section cause intermittedent p0420 on other vehicles. Cat itself was ok and code problem was solved.
  3. John/Horace
    Blinking mil light is the don't drive the car light, major issue. Doing damage to cats etc driving it. Maybe mice nibbled on some wiring when it was sitting. Look at coil wiring under the plastic cover over engine, also inspect O2 upstream sensor wiring. Need exact codes for trouble shooting purposes. Changing plugs sounds good, keep track of which ones look fouled. You got a deal, but will need to catch up on maintenance now.
  4. John/Horace
    Its a two stage lock on the rad cap. Second stage is spring loaded and needs pressing down to lock. Squeezing upper and lower hose with cap off helps push the air out of system. Funnel into fill port also helps air escape faster during fill.
  5. John/Horace
    Possibly bad rad cap, weak spring sending flow to reservoir. Pressure test system if bleeding doesn't help. Only one thermostat 3.6 engine.
  6. John/Horace
    You don't maybe blow fuse. Put meter in position that it beeps for continuity. Put probes across ends of fuse and if power goes through and makes meter beep, fuse is still ok. Or use ohms setting and there should be almost no resistance. Or use 12 volt clamp on light in handle style tester. Need to find good ground for this style which can be tricky. One leg of fuse has power that it feeds to other side.
  7. John/Horace
    Well maintained so ptu and rear diff have had at least one oil change since new.
  8. John/Horace
    Could get a used unit from auto part recyclers. If casting is damaged then rebuilding probably not an option. Might be able to remove drive shaft and temporarily use as 2wd. Although dealer not likely interested in helping with that. Shop that specializes in suv awd systems transmissions might be better option. Search this site there are links about ptu repairs.
  9. John/Horace
    Welcome to forum. Have someone plug in a scanner and see what codes show up. What is transmission 6 or 4 speed, mileage.?
  10. John/Horace
    Jumping relay bypasses safety items in circuit. Key switch security, transmission range selector. If it's clicking starter is getting power. If you tap starter with rubber mallet it will probably start. Bad solenoid contacts on starter. Just coincidence relay jumping worked,
  11. John/Horace
    If the glycol is orange, it's the newer oat glycol. There are aftermarket companies that make their version of Chysler OEM glycol. As you know, stay with correct mix. Drive the car locally for a few days before trip, after the work is done, that's a lot of stuff to take apart. Scan for codes before starting your work. Oil cooler swap is messy, have lots of rags and cardboard around. I also changed plugs at the same time as cooler. Should use a set of lower intake manifold gaskets, don't want to have to take apart a second time.
  12. John/Horace
    It's not related to problem. Could be for option your car doesnt have. Have you tried starting car with gas cap loose and no pressure in tank. Loose cap will cause a mil light, but not one that causes a no start. Is engine turning over but just not catching. If so hold pedal to floor and try again.
  13. John/Horace
    It's a fuel tank pressure code. System shouldn't pressurize like that if cannister etc working. Purge valve under hood is usually culprit, not expensive. Could unhook cannister vac hoses and see if it runs without pressurizing. Mil light will be on, but car should still run. Fumes accumulate in charcoal cannister and get sucked into engine during drive cycle. Yours not working properly. Loosening gas cap might also help you start car and drive to repair shop.
  14. John/Horace
    Throwing parts at it getting expensive and not working. Write down what has been done and bring to a recommended tec with your list. I bought a used Jeep that had rich condition and O2 sensors changed more than once. Signal from upstream sensor was not getting to ECM computer. Two feet of wire harness replaced. ECM had 60 pins and one of them wasn't getting a 1 volt signal. No melted wires or obvious signs of problem. Some issues can be tricky to nail down .
  15. John/Horace
    Canbus makes adding stuff to car a little harder now. May not just be a voltage thing. if you are using the factory radio screen you might need alpaobd program to activate it. Or pay dealer to program vehicle for back up camera activation.
  16. John/Horace
    Welcome to forum. If the battery gets really low there can be weird electrical stuff going on. There are models of Journey with Diesel engine and clutch. Software probably shared across models. Put it on a battery charger or boost car with cables. Make sure no dome lights left on etc.
  17. John/Horace
    Welcome to the forum. Approx mileage and engine in vehicle useful for trouble shooting. The clicking is the solenoid on the side of the starter. If it started without a boost by triple A then it's not likely battery. Could put rubber mallet in the car. Next no start, try few taps on side of starter. If it then starts it is probably worn solenoid contacts and you will need starter replaced. Easy on the 2.4 engine, crappy on the 3.6.
  18. John/Horace
    Welcome to forum, great first post.
  19. John/Horace
    Dealer uses your vin for parts look up. Since your car wasn't built with the handles, it won't show up in a search. They will have to do a manual search, making odds of getting wrong parts a lot higher. Ushally lots of whinnying as well.
  20. John/Horace
    Try the upull section of an auto recycler. You can see how it comes out, measure location of sheet metal bracket where the inserts go into. Pull inserts and hardware from the wrecker car. Good pic on this link of the cut out locations etc. I don't think the side curtain airbags are an issue. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,interior,headliner,14287
  21. John/Horace
    These guys hpseem to have the most accurate parts lists and they sell OEM as well. I don't work for them. Have caught other parts stores checking their site as a cross reference. ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,3.6l+v6,3309784,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+wheel+speed+sensor,1912
  22. John/Horace
    Comes out with first a 90 degree index twist motion, then a slight pull. I don't incourage throwing parts at cars, but this can be a wear item on 3.6. Plugs are are due as well.
  23. John/Horace
    Yeah no maf only MAP sensor, easy 5 minute change. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2012,journey,3.6l+v6,3015568,exhaust+&+emission,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207
  24. John/Horace
    I think I only paid dealer $30 for the correct filter. It's an important filter. Approx 5 quarts with a filter change pan drop. Can use a suction pump through dipstick with a hose and get about 4 quarts out. Filter change better.
  25. John/Horace
    My manual says 75W90 some where. The dealer only sells synthetic 75W90. Any good brand oil is fine, syn is better. I have used both dealer and Lucus brand syn. Rear is 900 ml approx and rdu is around 800, so almost a quart in each. Could buy a jug and use it for two changes, large jugs much cheaper. I would do tranny ATF+4 now as well, it's a fairly cheap semi synthetic oil.
×
×
  • Create New...