John/Horace

Nice to see your detailed pics and a solution to the transmission problem. More intimidating to work on then the rest of the car sometimes. I lifted the signature quote from some southern US guy on another forum. A little blasphemes, but it made me smile too. Sometimes you need a laugh.

Glad you got it sorted out. I fix my adult kids cars often as well; NACAR pit stop repairs not always fun. They don’t live at home. I prefer puttering along without dead lines or pressure. Then it’s kinda fun. O2 sensor fit seems to a problem on lots of cars, very frustrating. I’ve even had dealer supplied O2 not fit. But I have had great results from NTK sensors performance over all. For O2 sensors I have a three piece socket kit that fits a lot of weird applications. Harbour Freight type China kit that real mechanics cringe at. But with a bit if MAP gas in a pinch, always does the job without damaging the insert fitting weld or threads. Rust belt northern cars are always more of a challenge, no matter what kind of mechanic you are. Cheers, you are in the home stretch.

Test The Sensor Circuit Hall Effect sensor: Start by checking the ground side of the circuit. To do this, connect a DMM set to DC volts between the battery positive terminal and sensor ground terminal on the harness side of the connector. If there is a good ground, you should get a reading of about 12 volts. Next, check the 5-volt reference side of the circuit by connecting a DMM set to volts between the battery negative terminal and the sensor reference terminal on the harness side of the connector. Turn the Check the ground side of the circuit. To do this, connect DMM set to DC volts between the battery positive terminal and sensor ground terminal on the harness side of the connector. If there is a good ground, you should get a reading of about 12 volts. If not, the circuit will need to be diagnosed and repaired. Test The Oil Control Solenoid Remove the solenoid connector. Use a digital multimeter set to ohms to check the internal resistance of the solenoid. To do this, connect the meter between the solenoid B+ terminal and the solenoid ground terminal. Compare the resistance measurement to the factory repair specifications. If the meter displays a reading out of specification, or out of limits (OL) indicating an open circuit, the solenoid should be replaced. It's also a good idea to remove the solenoid to visually inspect the screen for metal debris. Check The Oil Control Solenoid Circuit Check the power side of circuit: Remove the solenoid connector. With the vehicle ignition on, use a digital multimeter set to DC volts to check for power at the solenoid (usually 12 volts). To do this, connect the negative meter lead to battery negative terminal and the positive meter lead to the solenoid B+ terminal on harness side of the connector. The meter should read 12 volts. If not, the circuit will need to be diagnosed and repaired. Check the ground side of the circuit: Remove the solenoid connector. With the vehicle ignition on, use a digital multimeter set to DC volts to check for ground. To do this, connect the positive meter lead to battery positive terminal and the negative meter lead to the solenoid ground terminal on harness side of the connector. Command the solenoid on with an OEM equivalent scan tool. The meter should read 12 volts. If not present, the circuit will need to be diagnosed and repaired. Check the timing chain and VVT actuators If everything checks out up to this point, the problem may be with timing chain, corresponding, or VVT actuators. Remove the necessary components to access the timing chain and actuators. Check the chain for excess play, broken guides and/or tensioners. Check the actuators for visible damage, such as worn teeth. Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p000b Copyright OBD-Codes.com

The green rubber grommet on gang elec connector was reused.? Fluid level is well below that during operation it looks like.

People forget the significance of the thermostat temp rating, cut and pasted from thermostat description is an important detail. Its the start to open temp, so not really the exact operating temp. The dash analogue needle sweep gauge is more useful than the instantaneous digital number in the cluster. It Can be misinterpreted some times. MAHLE / CLEVITE TI23795 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Includes Thermostat; Includes Gasket or Seal Info Start to Open Temperature: 95 C

Good info for the site. One of oil pans removed to do it.? Mopar oem part is $50-ish plus shipping. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical-switch+&+relay,neutral+safety+switch+/+range+sensor,4584

Nice thought but...warranty’s not the same for the neighbours to the north. Usually it’s 60k kilometres or 5 years bumper to bumper, power train is 100k or five years. Extended warranty would go a bit longer. Ten year coverage I think would be diesel engine type of thing. Much smaller, less competitive market, companies offer less...because they can. Dealerships also like to focus on fine print for claims. So exact oil change records etc are often demanded. Consumer’s have less power generally. Unless you are a lawyer, of course. I think owner should have shopped around and found more competitive quote for repair. Probably with auto recylcer parts.

Compression on cylinder 4 would be useful information. When you did oil cooler housing (like a lot of us also had to do) you had upper and lower manifolds removed. it’s a good idea to replace both sets of gaskets at same time, the old gaskets get crushed a bit. Air leak from bad intake manifold seal can create a cylinder misfire code sometimes.

Another possibility is the intake manifold seals, on cylinder 2 either upper or lower could bad. Not that expensive to change. Look closely for cracks or damage to the plastic manifolds when they are off. Car accidents sometimes damage manifolds. Extra air from bad seal or cracks can cause cylinder misfire issues. When people change the plugs they often reuse these seals; can get you later.

That’s great news, sounds like you dodged a bullet. Just to be clear, Its critical all three timing marks line up exactly. Belt sometimes looks ok without damage, but tensioner gets weak and belt jumps a few teeth. I use yellow paint marker and a mirror when checking timing marks. Fuel pump test can be tricky, some cars have a schrader valve on fuel rail for a pressure gauge to snap on to. I haven’t seen one on Journey. So special in line mechanics test gauge would have to be hooked up to confirm correct pressure. If pump is working some what you will hear it cycle on with key for a few seconds, then stop when it is pressurized. You will smell gas when cranking car and it will sputter and run a little bit with even a small amount of gas from weak fuel pump. Once battery is recharged, scan for engine codes if it’s still not starting.

As you are driving, if the battery stops getting charged. The ecm will start to shut down systems like the radio and climate control to keep power for critical stuff lights and engine cooling fan. Lots of though goes into it.

Welcome to forum, no start can be frustrating. Weird warnings often go together with low voltage, that is a reasonable assumption. My wife has an awd, I’m not aware of it being able to prevent starting from a fault. Charge battery for a few hours and make sure no interior lights or plug in stuff is drawing continuous power. If possible get battery/alternator load tested some where. Make sure connections under hood from battery are clean and corrosion free. If you buy a new battery for install, charge it as well before using it, they normally don’t arrive with a full charge.

Power draw 4 amps, is a lot. Restart half way through the night and run car for 10 mins, or it will be flat by morning IMO. Our batteries new I think are 65 amp hours full. . But capacity drops over time with some batteries useless after 3 years. Shouldn't drop battery below 12 volts or you start to damage the plates. So usable energy is no where near near 65 amps. Journey are sensitive to low batteries; push button start is a one shot relay system; not like the old style slow crank holding key on set ups. Could plug in a large lithium booster pack (10-12k milli amps) on vehicle for the night, another option. Running regular lead batteries flat and boosting is hard on them, I try to avoid it when ever possible. Deep cycle batteries are designed for this type of use. Let us know how it works out. I love learning from other people’s mistakes. ?

You need to line up crank pulley at top dead centre, notch on pulley lined up at mark on lower timing cover. Both intake and exhaust cams will also have a timing mark on pulley and matching spot on head casting. All three timing marks should be right on together. Out by one tooth or more and car won’t run, timing out of range. Hopefully it’s not a belt issue. Lots of other stuff to check like fuel pump, if belt is still ok.

Welcome to site. Great first post. Lots more caravans on the road compared to journeys so donor vehicles should be plentiful. People fixate on displacement for easy swaps. It’s map versus maf emissions set up, or integrated exhaust manifold in cylinder head (Journey) versus separate manifold; that can create issues. People blow up the 3.5’s when not changing belt, so maybe more demand for them.

The drivers door has a control module mounted behind inside cover, with a large ten-ish pin jack, IIRCC. Its tied into mirrors, BCM etc. . Module that not pricy, but wiring is likely more complex than 2 wires. Check a upull yard for a damaged door harness/module and compare it to your existing door.

The way it was explained to me by a dealer mechanic who always posted on the Hyundai site I was on. The upstream is the critical one that does fuel trim, affects fuel economy and driveability. Down stream confirms cats are working and will cause codes only. A few times I’ve had to use zip ties and reroute wiring when clips or new sensor wire pigtail length was off. Real annoying but I was saving $100 plus off dealer part. Hyundai dealer 02 sensors could hit $300. Rock allows returns for 30 days I think. The NTK’s were plug and play for wife’s 14 Journey and have worked perfectly for year and a half now. Wasn’t trying to mislead anybody. Sorry for the crappy luck.

Some times a taper punch can be good for lining up bushing hole with other subframe hole. Then try fitting bolt back in afterwards. Be nice to the threads at the end. Good luck.

My brother has lived across the river in Windsor for almost 40yrs, my son is in the area too. I was in Windsor a few years ago on the weekend of the Woodward Dream Cruise, there were some very rare mint muscle cars on the road. I’m sure they were crossing over for the event. The media coverage is really cool. Indoor car shows of stationary vehicles is kinda meh. The dream cruise is unique, and a great idea. The thunder boats on the Detroit River is another interesting thing to watch. The rooster tails from the boats and thundering V8’s make an impression. For gear heads like me.

Trying to guess how much weight is needed to prevent tire from spinning while torquing, sounds great. Forward movement from tire then helps roll car off jack because weight was’t enough. Car manual method is avoiding unsafe practice. Torque tolerance has a plus minus of 3-4 pounds I think. Enough to not affect vibration and require unusual effort for torquing lug nuts. Believe what you want. Showing a written procedure in a maintenance manual of your method, that would be worth something. Using a torque wrench for lug nuts, we agree on the most important part. ?

Pulling the upper half of one of the plastic timing covers should expose the timing belt. If It’s either shredded or jumped a few teeth then it’s really bad news. Sometimes if they jump on start up with out engine actually running, the piston doesn’t hit valves and engine can be salvaged. Long shot.

Actually it has nothing to do with my opinion. It’s in every owners manual I’ve ever seen under changing a tire section. If you have ever read one. Instructions say to both loosen and tighten nuts with weight on the wheel. Lightly tighten in the air and then final torque with weight on wheel. Journey manual says if you doubt correct tightness have them checked with torque wrench by service station. Retorque after 40 Kim’s to make sure nuts seated against wheel. Never a mention of no weight on wheel when setting torque, have never seen that stated anywhere ever. I have at least a half dozen factory manual from Jeep, Toyota , VW etc , doesn’t show up any where as a recommended practise . For a few reasons I believe related to transmission internal parking paul pin stress...it’s avoided.

Always start with scanning for codes to avoid throwing parts at a car. The CPS crank position sensor doesn’t always set a code when it fails, and is around $30 part , oem is best. At high mileage over a 100k miles I just change them to avoid getting stuck, becomes a wear item from heat and vibration it seems.

Great news, not a good time for buying vehicles. Thanks for the follow up info, helps site. Casting is cracked and seals are partly popped out, so it leaks. Nothing to do with removing the drive shaft. I would pursue removing ptu if possible. Fixing awd would depend on how good rear diff is as well, dump fluid and look for metal. It is safer to drive now the way it is. Awd shaft is worth a lot of money, even used. Don’t throw it away.

The weight on the wheels has very minimal effect, most mechanics torque this way. Good accurate wrench...yeah helps a lot. Stopping after one click and doing two stage torque on important stuff also helps. Torque wrench should be stored at zero setting as well, spring can get weak over time they say.