John/Horace

Always start with scanning for codes to avoid throwing parts at a car. The CPS crank position sensor doesn’t always set a code when it fails, and is around $30 part , oem is best. At high mileage over a 100k miles I just change them to avoid getting stuck, becomes a wear item from heat and vibration it seems.

Great news, not a good time for buying vehicles. Thanks for the follow up info, helps site. Casting is cracked and seals are partly popped out, so it leaks. Nothing to do with removing the drive shaft. I would pursue removing ptu if possible. Fixing awd would depend on how good rear diff is as well, dump fluid and look for metal. It is safer to drive now the way it is. Awd shaft is worth a lot of money, even used. Don’t throw it away.

The weight on the wheels has very minimal effect, most mechanics torque this way. Good accurate wrench...yeah helps a lot. Stopping after one click and doing two stage torque on important stuff also helps. Torque wrench should be stored at zero setting as well, spring can get weak over time they say.

Most common a/c repair is condensor replacement. It’s an aluminum flat thing that looks like a screen almost, sits in front of radiator behind grill. A small rock often can often bounce up and put in a hole it. Then refrigerant leaks out, usually a small oil stain forms around where leak is, dirt will cling to it. Unfortunetly, several hundred bucks to fix usually.

Welcome to the forum. Wiring harness would need to be in substitute door for the power lock handle. I would remove inner door panel and try to see if lock plug is there from inner door wire harness, before buying a new handle.

Brit speak for roof rack, roof top carrier etc, I think. Welcome to site.

Rock auto shows them as being different parts. They are one of the most accurate on line sites.

I thought it was a funny comment, made me laugh. Water pump timing belt surgery on Kia 2.7 recently, big pia. Car should be fine for a while now.

Here is corroded brake lines being changed on son in laws Kia, recently. Not a fun job...ever. Even with nickel copper lines.

Haaa haaa. Must be the lighting, I'm retired so more gardening then wrench work. Here is a wrist scar from an exploding zip blade. Proof of something I guess. The clear silicone being easy to remove is actually handy sometimes. Just not great for holding plastic stuff together. My 2 cents.

Any possibility of a Progress report. No reocurrence of sticking TCC solenoid ? Good site info. I bought a Dorman tranny pan with drain plug recently for my Ram. Bigger pan and mess compared to Journey. Can syphon 4 liters from journey quite easily.

Held in place and glued, then remove support and it's under load, and driving with vibration.. .a live load. White 100% silicone maybe,the clear is really weak I find. Moparcity or other on line dealers are way lower than list now for stuff. I like this E6000 clear automotive sealant. Needs over night curing, but great for plastics/vinyl. Beats silicone generally, around $5 a tube.

Hatchback headliner trim panel. I don't find clear silicone is very strong under load. Should be under warranty coverage, I would ask. Parts department could order correct clip, maybe get two. Flimsy trim is common on FCA vehicles.

Was car former rental or company fleet vehicle.? Maybe some kind of driving monitoring system tie in. Is wiring tied into obd port under dash.?

Ramps are good for getting safe and decent height. I haven't had to have the driveshaft off our journey yet. Flex coupling at the diff and cap screws at front I think. Some people match mark the mounts to avoid vibration issues on reinstall.

Ouch, that's tough. Hope the Insurance business treats you ok. Tricky time to switch vehicles.

Used Ptu on LKQ is an option. If really high mileage and vehicle tired, maybe not. Viscous coupling in rear diff is another common wear item if you haven't done it. Can be changed without removing diff, guy on site posted about it.

Cps is mounted on back tranny casing. Use Mitchel on line at shop for details. Good opportunity if you are keeping vehicle.

On pick ups tail stock pulls out of diff and oil will all leak out. This is a self contained unit and it's bolted directly on tranny. It's gear to gear drive. Input/output shafts fixed in place. Most transfer cases like New Process etc are chain driven units. If you have oil still in Ptu I wouldn't worry about driving it. Just pull drive shaft for now. If split casing won't hold oil and it's runnings dry. Then it needs removing a lot sooner before it grenades.

Change your crank position sensor if you have ptu removed. It's accessable with it off, only way to do it.

Don't have to cap, can drive as is. Shaft mounts stay in place, don't pull out. I haven't driven without ptu on a Journey. People have without drive shaft on journey (I have on jeeps). . No Ptu might be a first. I think it's doable...free advice worth everything you pay for it. ?

I'm a retired milright mechanic. But have always worked on cars. Wife has an RT for a few years. Haven't done much to the AWD. Just lip seals in rear diff. As long as rear diff has oil, it should be ok just free wheeling. Front ptu has a drain plug, could check for oil. Top vent is easiest way to refill oil back into unit . If it's not holding oil anymore, it will need to get pulled until you get a used one.

Not sure how long it ran dry for. So can't really speculate on time. It would be safer I think with drive shaft removed. Could just leave it as 2 wheel drive vehicle. Single plug on rear diff sends speed signal I think. As long as plugged in still shouldn't be dash light from traction control.

Front ptu casing is toast, can't be rebuilt. There was a quart of oil in it at one point. People buy used unit from wreckers normally. New it's pricy, around $950 US. If you work on Dodges, are you an apprentice?

The aluminum chunks aren't from drive shaft. The pic is from the front transfer case, or ptu, correct.