John/Horace

You said carb cleaner, I hope you meant fuel injection compatible cleaner. Carb cleaner kinda harsh, injection seals don't like it. If it fouls again, some shops have a injection cleaning set up called Motovac or something similar. They unhook engine fuel line and run car on a concentrated cleaner for 10 mins. Works well. The vvt have sensors with screens in them. You might get cam codes from the carbon sludge. The cat could be a mess too.

Thanks for the info. Curious, how many miles when the problem started. The part is changed with tranny still in vehicle, correct. New gasket on casing or tube sealant. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum. Cool diy. You could add a few small strips of metal or aluminum with rivets to reinforce the corner of support where slots are. In case there is flexing. I've had some close calls with deer, just lucky I haven't made contact yet. Good thing airbags didn't trigger with the deer hit.

I don’t think it’s the transfer case. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-transfer-case-rl071706aa?c=Zz10cmFuc2Zlci1jYXNlJnM9dHJhbnNmZXItY2FzZSZsPTEmbj1TZWFyY2ggUmVzdWx0cyZhPWRvZGdlJm89am91cm5leSZ5PTIwMTAmdD1yLXQmZT0zLTVsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D Front drive shafts come out of the transaxle part of transmission. Unfortunately I think you will need new tranny if the aluminum casing is cracked. . Could try reman or wrecker units with lower miles, LKQ useful. Could be just a blown c/v shaft which took out lip seal on side of tranny and caused leak. Maybe fixable and no new tranny if your lucky. Don’t drive it further, tow it.

I had to try and help...In a hemi owner. 2015 Ram.

A little early for the plugs, you will get codes if they are malfunctioning. At a 100k miles I only had 10 thou of wear on electrodes. Was-doing oil cooler replacement so plugs changed too. Fluids more important, pricier repair if a break down. Upstream O2 does fuel trim rich/lean, it’s even early for that, but gas is expensive and that might improve fuel economy slightly, plugs wouldn’t. My 2 cents.

Codes first. MAP sensor maybe.

Thanks for the info, helpful for the site. Cars can do weird things and make trouble shooting tricky at the best of times. If you remove intake, new rear plugs might be a good idea if they are close to being due. Most of work done at that point. Random horn mmm. Is the airbag light showing on dash, is there a drivers side code for airbag. Horn often shares clockspring wire harness. Switch mechanism in steering possibly.

It’s possible, dealer electrical Tec would know for sure. I think ecm more likely, it even has the vin number programmed in. I do know it’s a combination of mileage and time and driving load characteristics. I’ve had the monitoring on more than one vehicle, the 2015 Ram pick up system seems not too bad compared to others. I think one of the defaults is 6 months maximum time between oil changes on some monitor systems, which I don’t really agree with when using full synthetic. Coil pad and all maint listed including oil changes, like someone mentioned, is what I do. I have read on other forums that the system is calibrated on the recommended factory oil. My older F150 specs were semi-synthetic so that is how they extended cycle a little longer. There is nothing wrong with just basic blended oil and shorter changes IMO. I only use expensive synthetic when it’s in sale. Costco has their own brand of syn that is always a good price, BITOG says it’s not bad. Being old school...and old, I can’t bring my self to going more than 6-7k miles on oil, even full syn.

Check the grub screws for tightness. I think they use blue loctite on them. If it’s cracked flex plate I think tranny has to be pulled to change it. Very unfortunate, but your head change work did stand up, which is good.

I agree with 5rebel9, not that likely the ecm. They rarely go on most vehicles. You need to clear that code with proper scanner and then watch live data with vehicle running. More trouble shooting before throwing parts at it.

Scan for codes first. Unplug horn and confirm random stalling still occurs. If cps crank position sensor is original change it. CPS doesn’t always set a mil code. Report back if it fixed it so car forums are useful.

There are a few body shop supply stores that do that here. But not in small towns. Usually they won’t do a single can, more like 2-3 cans. Investigate shipping cost from Quebec after google translation. I use to have my snowmobile piston jugs nickosil coated in Quebec, even with shipping, best deal north of border.

Very close to there actually, few miles north of there. I did notice extra planes, wasn’t sure what is was. Toronto has a very big air show at the end of the summer, international air show usually. Lots of very unusual older military planes etc. I’ve only been is this area for the last year, but I have in the past crossed over into Buffalo for the outlet malls etc. A lot of beautiful old century homes and architecture in some areas. Looking forward to life and border returning to normal. Cross border shopping was always very big. On topic ...even for OEM a dealer stuff.

Yeah a lot of stuff is marked up higher. Partly because of extra shipping distance, currency exchange, lower volume of sales. Govmint cost mark up is the trickier one. Lots of people here pissed off with extended border closing. I’ve had both shots for a while now. Vaccine roll out was not that well handled here IMO. Just like everything else, there is a hidden political element to it now. I’m living right at border, business hit has been huge. Not sure how some of them will recover; even with the hand outs. Better days ahead. On topic, I don’t mind paying a bit more for better quality dealer stuff. Especially critical components.

Actually the Journey 3.6 plugs are one of the easier V6 plugs I’ve ever changed. Hyundai 3.8. 3.5, 3.3; Kia 2.7 , F150 4.6 3V are all much worse for more fasteners and electrical plugs to remove. Someone said they paid $11 for oem. I guess our free health care is’t so free after all. ? https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-spark-plug-sp149125ae

Welcome to the forum, great first post. Sounds like we now have a body and frame expert on the forum. Cheers.?

Some people have had problem with main power feed to fuse box cable. Behind plastic cover crimp has corrosion.

That’s good oil pressure for idle. Timing chain tensioner works with combination of spring and oil pressure, if oil pressure was low, tensioner could have been generating extra noise from that. Back of tensioner against block has a tiny oil passage. On timing belt motors the full replacement kit had idler pulley, tensioner pulley, new belt, water pump and finally a brand new belt tensioner. Some car mechanics I know (I’m not a licensed car mechanic) say you should always replace the tensioner on chain motors if you are working with front cover off. I replaced a weak one on a Malibu 2.4 motor on my wife’s car a few years ago. On cold start ups it would give a rattle noise similar to what you described (only 60k miles) New chain and tensioner and two Teflon chain case guides got rid of the slowly increasing rattling noise. Awkward and time consuming, as you know. Hopefully I wrong and it’s something else. I’m old and my hearing is not great from working in manufacturing for over 35 years.

If you using a metal wrench on the positive terminal, be careful not to make contact with metal car part anywhere. You will arc out battery with a dead short, sparks and maybe damage something. Wrap end of wrench or keep hand over end while tightening. Like 5rebel9 is saying, must not be tight enough. It’s like battery terminal post, after tightening always try to twist with gloved hand. Should not be any movement in either direction. Add a lock washer if normal torque not tightening connection.

Sounds a lot like timing chain hashing more than a bottom end crank noise. Sound clips are tricky for trouble shooting. Look for metal filings when you dump the oil. Scan for codes even if mil light not on. If the chain/tensioner was becoming an issue there might be codes for that. Curious, how many miles on engine. What is cluster showing for oil pressure at idle.? Could run for 20 secs without surpentine belt to make sure it’s block related. Water pump won’t turn, so short test only.

Passenger fuse panel F121 fuse controls the push button start, 15 amp I think. Remove and test it for continuity. Jumping starter relay bypassed park/neutral, key fob security. Need a detailed schematic for trouble shooting. If you can cycle ignition to run position, then jump starter relay and car runs. It might need reprogramming remotes; sitting dead shouldn’t trigger that. Odd.

Put some jumpers on the battery and try and start it again. Or run a charger for a few hours and make sure you have voltage in the 12.2-12.9 range.

Ouch more hate. Know your market and manipulate what you can, standard commission sales strategy, not surprising. Lumber market and other shortages were similar. https://jalopnik.com/this-dodge-journey-markup-might-be-the-dumbest-dealer-m-1847168124

It’s a one piece assembly, unfortunately. Dorman makes one although Mopar better quality. You can drive with out it and get no codes if you leave the rear plug connection hooked up. LKQ is another option. How many miles, curious.