John/Horace

Which engine, how many miles. Oil pressure follows rpms usually, so that’s the variable part AFAIK. Could be some kind of electrical throttling valve, but I doubt it. The v6 runs pretty high for oil pressure normally, so 96 psi isn’t terrible. Mechanics can hook up an oil pressure gauge and confirm that number.

https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/65881464/5149062AA.html About $47 Canadian pesos. Screwed into end of oil heat exchanger under hood. Could be wire harness related and sensor is ok.

Sounds like a great project. You would need some serious plasma cutter and MIG welding fabrication skillls to pull this off to be street legal. Would the MTO require an inspection and recertification for this extensive a make over; like they do with written off car accident vehicles, I wonder. Would be a blast to drive if you can do it.

Need the right left diverter for accurate depiction. Heater core box has two chambers for diff temp. So partly plugged heater core you would think would affect both sides equally. So I agree problem may have some other variable we don’t know about. Sticking or internally broken door actuator comes to mind. Actually temp probe stuck in vent is nice for accurate data.

It’s not just weight when considering towing. Front surface area effects drag which puts a lot of load on tranny. But a small front profile 500 # boat, plus gear plus trailer which might be 200 pounds puts you at limit if car full of people as well. Should be doable. Full synthetic ATF+4 is a good idea if towing.

Your early rad failure Probak118 might also be tied to the sand residue in system. Friend had the similar problem with a 3.6 in a 2012 Ram. Cylinder head that year was the most $ problem, mainly passenger side I think.

The inner hub flange design does look slightly different. Both say Borg Warner, who I think generally make good stuff. They are used across the automotive industry by many car/truck builders. Electric clutches are more common on awd systems on newer vehicles than viscous couplers. My old 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a New Process WD249 full time awd set up with a viscous coupler. Which started to bunny hop at around 250k kms. I think they contain silicone type fluid that eventually wears out and starts to gel and stays partially engaged. They can be rebuilt I believe. Failing at 75k miles seems early. They are a part time set up; getting stuck and spinning out excessively might do some damage. You kept your rear diff in place and just bolted in coupler, correct.

Give the c/v shaft lip seals on the diff housing a real good look. Mine literally rotted out and started leaking slightly. I think the metal component is aluminum on the lip seals. Very easy to pop out now and put in new ones, I used one over priced oem and one from Rockauto. About 45 k kms now and no leaks. The new ones I sprayed with Fluid Film a very pricy liquid rust inhibitor. Hoping not not have to do again. I have had vehicles with well over 200k on this style seal with no issues what so ever. AWD on most newer car is next to no maintenance. Wife’s Santa Fe went to 375k kms with maybe $100 of oil and one hangar bearing.

Great pics, thanks for posting that, lots of people have awd. Looks like you know what your doing. Good info, I will probably swap my driveshaft out soon, over 200k kilometres now, may drive without for short spell. All diffs etc get dirty, it’s the internal oil that matter more. Although I find my unit always has very dirty oil when dumped, compared to pick ups or Jeep diffs that I have worked on. If it’s not triggered to engage by wheel slippage or wiper use (not confirmed) maybe no light comes on.

On a nice sunny day do a dry run on changing a flat on the new v hi less. Drop down tire, figure out jacking points etc. Changing it out in the dark in a hurry without a dry run can be a pia. Having learned the hard way once, took 15 mins in dark to figure out where jack was even located, I do a dry run now. My rear flashlight in Journey still works, cool option.

It’s a bit of a long shot. Plastic intake manifold has seals for each cyclinder. You buy as a set or individually . It’s possible extra air is getting in from bad seal or there have been cases of a cracked plastic manifold. Usually from car accident etc. Not common just throwing it out there. MAP pressure or injector would give a specific code I think. Cylinder pressure and leak down tests on cylinder 6 would be useful.

Welcome to Forum, body looks quite decent still. First cars always have a few special memories attatched. First time locking keys in car, running battery dead, first flat tire, and the other better stuff. Congrats.

And you thought your Journey v6 was hard to work on. Here he is again with a new tooth brush I think. I like his subtle change and watch your oil messages.

Welcome. ??

I love this guys utube clips on tear downs. Subaru boxer engine is similar to VW air cooled horizontally opposed engines in the beetles. Really detailed and explained well. Even promotes dental hygiene with the Colgate brush. Haven’t seen anything like this for a Journey 3.6 or 2.4 mmmm.

These are 2009-2010 specs, which are very close. Especially for an uncalibrated Harbor Freight torque wrench. Mitchel on line login will have exact 2013 specs.

Just because it’s not supported doesn’t mean you couldn’t use an explorer version offline to run the disk. Maybe print out some useful critical torque charts etc for safe keeping. I guess Macrocrap is trying to force people to windows 1910.

After finger tight dry time for atv. Don’t go to full torque in one step, go to full 105 in pounds in three lower steps. Start in the middle of pan and criss cross outwards, don’t start at outside corners first. Unless you find Mitchel site telling you other wise.

The google.... The diagonal arrangement has been the default for several decades now. A diagonal split is safer in the event of the failure of one circuit: it leaves you with one front brake, whereas a F/R split could leave you with rear brakes only, and a vastly longer stopping distance.Jan. 21, 2017

Cross bleeding for air, section of clear vinyl 1/4” hose on bleeder screw to see the air bubbles. Nickel copper alloy brake line, not old school steel. Flares easy, no tubing bender unless you are ver fussy. Lasts great in rust belt areas, most performance guys use it now. Labor savings makes the extra $2 per foot cost negligible. Good for classic cars. Even metric bubble flares on first try by non mechanics.

What’s the verdict????

Patience and the right electronic flux and solder, and a nice butane solder torch. Daughter in law had her 2.4 sensor changed last year. Car randomly stalling out. I’m 4 hrs away so couldn’t help. Local FCA dealer is actually pretty good, I think labor only 0.5 hr. I have changed several CPS sensors on a variety of brands, have never had to do a relearn. There is a manual relearn procedure someone posted on this site. Seven or eight steps. I would pay a little xtra for the oem factory sensor, pretty important part. This guy changed CPS , several cam sensors etc without a scanner or relearn.

The last four speed standing, more or less. Sometimes simple is good. Daughter in law has a 2012 journey 4 speed, with just over 60k miles in it, I have driven it a bit, seems to work fine. Could use more gears, but is actually less clunky than the 6 speed. Heat shrink and solder is time consuming, but a good permanent fix IMO.

The caliper piston needs to make contact when pressure bleeding to properly push the air out. I have had a rear disc brake caliper not making contact with new pads and rotor on a Hyundai vehicle. It had the locking parking brake caliper pad set up like on Journey. Cycling parking brake did not seem to help any. After messing around I ended up adjusting piston for more contact and no gap. Air then pushed out with a gravity bleed, and pedal cycling. So this is correct helpful information for Journey rear calipers with air trapped in system. Pedal height is also affected by pad wear, new pads keep it slightly higher.

Welcome to the site, great to have more strong diy guys on the car site. I worked as a millwright mechanic for most of my working career, so car repairs became one of my hobbies in retirement. My wife’s 2014 awd still has the original tranny with 200k kilometres, and a few oil changes. Fingers crossed. They are a clunky shifting tranny most of the time, the 6 speed. You mentioned wiper, is that the wire harness through the hatch wires breaking ? Driver door window switch is just a swap out , correct. Has surfaced a few times here. Anyway, welcome.