John/Horace

Mitchel on line login site might have some info. I hate cork style gaskets, have had issues in the past. New oil pan should have had a recommendation. Straight rtv meant for oil and 24 hrs drive time should work. Degrease,with lacquer thinner and wait an hour ish with finger tight torque on atv first, then do final torque. There is a 90 min dry atv, I’ve used once successfully, pic below. With oil dripping down on your degreased surface, it’s a little tricky, gotta work fast. Some vehicles like F150:use an aluminum crush shim with an attatched rubber gasket, dry no adhesive used, drive immediately on their transmission 6R80. Nothing to clean and gasket/shim even reusable. But $40 to buy new one.

Horn harness would be female I think. Might have to buy spade clips and just make up your own pig tail. Did the air horn comes with its own relay, Safer with a relay for add on assessories.

He said thermostat so I assumed he did it. If not orange but green stuff, yeah especially important for 2011.

I would get to the fluids right away if you don’t have service records. Front PTU , rear diff, transmission filter and oil for sure. My wife’s2014 RT is just at 200k, got it at 120k. Fairly good car for the price. Were the bearings getting loud or was it abs/traction control light that triggered change.

My ram last week. A quad in the ...quad cab with a shoe horn, just fits. It spent the winter at my brothers plowing snow.

Thanks for the detailed info. Seems like you are on the right track. LKQ is a big auto recycler site that lots of people use, another option for the future. Checking the fluid condition in rear diff and front ptu would be useful. Metal filings often show source of wear problems. Sliding extension magnet in drain plug location after oil is out helps the search. My rear diff side seals started leaking at 100k miles and had to be replaced, awkward time consuming repair. Seals were corroded and crumbling, not physically worn out. If metal filings in your old diff and nothing in the used unit, I would use the eBay diff. I’m sure you already have that in mind. Did driving without the rear drive shaft cause any dash lights to come on, like traction control. Some people with an older awd might not want to fix diff and coupler and just drive vehicle. Good info for the site. Cheers, good luck with your repair.

Are they dropping pan and changing fluid as well, or just scanning for codes while driving.

I’m using the used oem unit with new gaskets and thermostats from the Gates unit. The oem unit isn’t sold as a complete unit, you buy each gasket and o ring and thermostat individiualy and the housing separately, ends up being 4-5 times the price of after market. It takes an hour-ish to change the housing, a drip won’t strand you, people can decide for themselves I guess. Just general info for the site.

Steady drip on daughter in laws 2012 Journey with the 2.4 engine, 115k kms on car. It has the orange long life glycol, decided to just replace it all at the same time, still appears pretty clean but it is close to the ten year mark. Drip is on the side of the cylinder head right where one of the thermostats is mounted. Purchased the whole assembly with new thermostats, large o ring for rear inlet pipe included, made by Gates. It didn’t have the temp sensor o ring, but I have an o ring assortment set that had the correct replacement. The cooling manifold is held to the intake head by three 13 mm bolts, torque spec is 89in pounds. Installed new parts and seemed ok for one day then a drip came back. This time it was the square return gasket beside thermostat, it was new and installed on the Gates replacement assembly. Checked bolt torque and it was very close, decided to remove and inspect all gaskets. The new assembly when being installed didn’t dry fit in place as easily as the used original part, doesn’t sit flush to head with 20 pounds hand pressure. Moved all gaskets over to the old original plastic assembly and reinstalled it. No leak now for several days now. Not a difficult repair, just messy with glycol. Never had an issue with Gates replacement parts before, it seems cheaper made than the factory part. Metal grommets instead of copper, thinner flanges on secondary thermostat housing, stud mounts flimsy.

On second thought the code would probably be in the firmware for the CD player itself. Alpha obd is for the Journey electrical operating systems only.

Alpha obd program might be cheapest way rather than dealer.

Get an estimate from a tranny shop. Sometimes it’s only sensors and they can fix it in place, which isn’t as expensive. Is the 2.4 or 3.6 engine.

When there is a camber bolt mount it changes alignment, so people paint mark fastner and try to assemble to same spot. So in this case you should be okay. Mechanics will say you should always do an alignment after any suspension work, regardless. The front struts have camber adjustment alignment bolts like in pic. Rear don’t, as you can see with the removed bolts you have.

Sometimes compressing strut slightly can allow pivoting strut loose. The rear lower lateral arm connection at wheel hub spindle could be unbolted for more travel, I think. Lots of PB Blaster or penetrating oil to free up rust.

I’ve never removed a rear strut on a Journey. But I have removed them on numerous other vehicles. It should just pivot down with the lower lateral links. Are you sure you have all the fasteners from the upper strut mount removed? Quite a bit of rear interior panels need to be removed to access the two fasteners (usually on most struts) on the top of the mount. The mount can be a little rusted in sometimes, may need to pry a bit.

A 45 gallon drum full, to be precise. Seems appropriate for spending $800 for blue tooth fix.

You could get dealer to replace module but you would need to use the product shown in the picture below first. Probably in the $800 ish zone. 14389ACC-C18F-4353-916D-B64C2D86A408.webp

Welcome to forum. Knowing the previous owner with vehicles and the service that was done is always very useful. If you have the 3.6 there is not much you can do to engine, it’s already fairly powerful. Post year, mileage, engine and model when asking for repair or mod advice.

Call the guy who programmed the first one, he should have some suggestions. Mention it s not working correctly. Aftermarket can look identical but there is always a risk of compatibility.

I’ve replaced alternator and battery on several Journey vehicles. All plug and play, alternator does adjust output but it does it on its own without programming.There is a switch at negative terminal wiring that probably communicates with ecm. When alternator died Journey was driven for several miles until car shut itself off completely with dash lite up like Christmas tree with voltage warning, alternator and low battery symbols. Battery recharged and dealer rebuilt alternator put in by me, zero issues on start up, no warnings or issues since. Factory alternator is made by Denso on 3.6 engine, one of the better manufacturers of car parts. Lexus and Acura use them.

Grab terminal connections on top of battery with a glove and try and turn them, if they move they aren’t tight enough? You didn’t accidentally arc out battery cables during the install, would generate a lot of sparks.

Is your cooling fan coming on sometimes? Turn on a/c it should come on right away with compressor I believe. Your leaks meaning the thermostat manifold on side of engine was replaced.?

Cool thanks for the update. Is car still on the road now. Did you pull the rad and a/c evap coil, rad etc to make the install easier. Curious. This must have taken quite a bit of time to swap out. Or did you drop subframe with tranny from below and not use an engine hoist.

Could magyver these manual control units on. Anything with power and heated glass, puddle lights would be a night mare. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000542689169.html?ug_edm_item_id=4000542689169&edm_click_module=alg_products&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=user_browse_remind_1_1_en_US_2021-05-02&rowan_msg_id=4665biz_search_product:0:0_1644066$fe3b471be83a4ebe843873475ecea33b&ck=in_edm_other

Sounds like yaw control sensor. Accident can mess it up sometimes. Buried some where, WAG maybe under center console. Rock might sell them.