John/Horace

That’s good oil pressure for idle. Timing chain tensioner works with combination of spring and oil pressure, if oil pressure was low, tensioner could have been generating extra noise from that. Back of tensioner against block has a tiny oil passage. On timing belt motors the full replacement kit had idler pulley, tensioner pulley, new belt, water pump and finally a brand new belt tensioner. Some car mechanics I know (I’m not a licensed car mechanic) say you should always replace the tensioner on chain motors if you are working with front cover off. I replaced a weak one on a Malibu 2.4 motor on my wife’s car a few years ago. On cold start ups it would give a rattle noise similar to what you described (only 60k miles) New chain and tensioner and two Teflon chain case guides got rid of the slowly increasing rattling noise. Awkward and time consuming, as you know. Hopefully I wrong and it’s something else. I’m old and my hearing is not great from working in manufacturing for over 35 years.

If you using a metal wrench on the positive terminal, be careful not to make contact with metal car part anywhere. You will arc out battery with a dead short, sparks and maybe damage something. Wrap end of wrench or keep hand over end while tightening. Like 5rebel9 is saying, must not be tight enough. It’s like battery terminal post, after tightening always try to twist with gloved hand. Should not be any movement in either direction. Add a lock washer if normal torque not tightening connection.

Sounds a lot like timing chain hashing more than a bottom end crank noise. Sound clips are tricky for trouble shooting. Look for metal filings when you dump the oil. Scan for codes even if mil light not on. If the chain/tensioner was becoming an issue there might be codes for that. Curious, how many miles on engine. What is cluster showing for oil pressure at idle.? Could run for 20 secs without surpentine belt to make sure it’s block related. Water pump won’t turn, so short test only.

Passenger fuse panel F121 fuse controls the push button start, 15 amp I think. Remove and test it for continuity. Jumping starter relay bypassed park/neutral, key fob security. Need a detailed schematic for trouble shooting. If you can cycle ignition to run position, then jump starter relay and car runs. It might need reprogramming remotes; sitting dead shouldn’t trigger that. Odd.

Put some jumpers on the battery and try and start it again. Or run a charger for a few hours and make sure you have voltage in the 12.2-12.9 range.

Ouch more hate. Know your market and manipulate what you can, standard commission sales strategy, not surprising. Lumber market and other shortages were similar. https://jalopnik.com/this-dodge-journey-markup-might-be-the-dumbest-dealer-m-1847168124

It’s a one piece assembly, unfortunately. Dorman makes one although Mopar better quality. You can drive with out it and get no codes if you leave the rear plug connection hooked up. LKQ is another option. How many miles, curious.

Never any young kids in my wife’s Journey in pic. The carpets do have some salt stains in the front. Daughter in laws Journey is a different story, tumble weeds of dog hair. Baby stuff every where. I assume the OP figured out his route for wiring.

Some iridium are not both center electrode and ground electrode iridium. Same with platinum, which is why double platinum description is used sometimes. Laser cut iridium I believe are full iridium, ground electrode has a small piece welded to it at the arc contact point. Gives a full 100k mile rating, which people will exceed. There are iridium coated as well, with a shorter life span. Although it’s nice to not have to change plugs, they can also seize up if in there too long. Aluminum heads and stainless plug threads can have issues. On in line four engines like the 2.4 I often just use double plat plugs. So easy to get at, the extra cost of iridium or Ruthenium not worth spending. I’ve seen double plat plugs last well over a 100k miles and still not have a really worn electrode gap. A/C Delco is now owned by NGK so I consider them close in quality. Although Anton Champion the motorcycle racer invented the spark plug...I’ve never had great luck with their plugs. Years ago they were sub quality, probably fine now, I just have a long memory.?

I used those laser iridium plugs on my 2014 a few years ago, working great. Canadian dealer was 250 percent more for Chumpions. Kinda like buying tires or a battery from the dealer. Could use double platinum as well, some of them good for 100k miles. NGK 9723 {#SILZKR7B11} Laser Iridium Info Gap 0.044" CAD$10.87 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,ignition,spark+plug,7212

In the 2015-16 peak sales years in US they were number 12 in Canada. Couldn’t find peak sales Canada break down. Semi-popular or popular, mmm. Personally I don’t buy a vehicle because it’s popular, it’s function and value end of things. Rank Best-Selling SUV/Crossover 2016 2015 % Change #1 Toyota RAV4 49,103 42,246 16.2% #2 Ford Escape 46,661 47,726 -2.2% #3 Honda CR-V 44,789 38,961 15.0% #4 Nissan Rogue 40,055 35,841 11.8% #5 Jeep Cherokee 32,465 31,833 2.0% #6 Mazda CX-5 25,123 22,281 12.8% #7 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 24,282 26,685 -9.0% #8 Hyundai Tucson 23,789 16,362 45.4% #9 Ford Edge 20,517 16,580 23.7% #10 Chevrolet Equinox 19,197 19,766 -2.9% #11 Jeep Wrangler 18,277 20,880 -12.5% #12 Dodge Journey 16,741 25,646 -34.7% #13 Kia Sorento 15,466 14,372 7.6% #14 Ford Explorer 15,275 15,615 -2.2%

Cheapest awd vehicle sold north of border, I think that helped them up here for a little bit. The comment was they are popular and they sell well in Canada. The Voyager/Caravan and Charger/Challenger made up here I think sell pretty well in their segments. In the suv market up here the Journey in its best year never got to half the current sales of the RAV4 (made here as well) or other suvs. Per capita versus US it looks like it did sell better here, true. More price sensitive market. There are no records I can find of the Journey being made in Windsor or Brampton plants, the two FCA/Stellantis facilities here.

Air bag stuff is usually bright yellow wire loom. I usually unhook battery for 15 mins before starting. Looking where the clips snap into metal brackets every 6 inches or so is often helpful. Its hard with seat installed to take useful pics. This is a heated seat car pic. wires run along side closer to passenger I think, behind plastic cover.

Love the paint and custom speaker installs, real talent there. Florida company. Braun is the bigger conversion company out of the US. I have a friend who has a new converted Braun Caravan. I’ll try to get a few pics underneath next time I see it. I think the rear suspension has a ladder type lift welded on rear subframe, all brake lines etc all rerouted. Air shocks in the rear for lowering ramp during loading. Wheel chair person can ride shot gun when chair strapped in place at front. Not a lot of steel added during conversion I think. The front looks like two inch bolt on coil spacers, pretty simple.

Re they are popular in Canada....ahh no they are not look at wiki numbers. FCA employee discount goose the meagre numbers they have. Most Japanese brands sell five six times that amount per model.

Sales[edit] Calendar year United States Canada Outside North America Mexico Europe Brazil Argentina Colombia Australia Journey Freemont Journey Freemont 2007[31] 109 2[32] 2008[33] 47,097 11,817[34] 24,155[35] 12,831[36] 5,101 2009[37] 53,826 15,390[38] 15,908[39] 13,491[40] 8,316 2010[41] 48,577 23,785[38] 13,063 6,254 2,280[42] 1,980[43] 2011[44] 55,155 29,021[45] 38,869 12,321[46] 901 13,651[47] 4,077[48] 1,567[49] 1,016 2012[50] 79,563 28,888[51] 23,624 13,034[52] 51 25,830 11,330[53] 2,376[54] 1,275[55] 1,428 2013[56] 83,933 27,745[57] 12,615[58] 27 18,826 2,423[59] 1,919[60] 1,661 1,111 2014[61] 93,572 24,715[31] 11,688[62][63] 2 17,417 7,478[64] 428[65] 561[66] 1,547 1,560 2015[67] 108,085 25,646[31] 10,972[68] 33 13,790 10,723 66[69] 1,184 1,273 2016[70] 106,759 16,883[31] 7,698[71][72] 65 3,084[73] 7,302 15[74] 366[75] 464 2017[76] 89,470[77] 13,745[78][79] 4,167[80] [71][81][82] 3[83] 469[84] 584[85] 2018[86] 94,096[87] 5,777 2,828[88] 2 324[89] 379[90] 321[91] 2019 74,687 2,631[92] 2,360[93][94] 1[95] 442[96] 66[97] 549[98] 2020 40,341[99] 420 615[100] 21[101]

. .Newer ones are better, head gaskets were a long term issue. Not a cheap repair. Great awd systems IMO. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjKzIjesKHxAhVYOs0KHaeHAWMQtwIwAHoECAMQAw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DbJSYDBjkJNQ&usg=AOvVaw3pLlswYtbBJ8DYN7feO9Lr .

Was going to offer advice sooner...but I thought you were dead.? If you are in the rust belt, can’t hurt cleaning up the main grounds under hood and around main fuse box. I even grind off the paint under main grounds and use light coat of dielectric grease.

Mitchel login will have lots of diagrams, buy a one month subscription. The starter relay has five contacts, usually one of the legs is a ground coming back from neutral safety switch. Or go on the Hyundai forums and ask this to a guy with the user name Autospark. He’s from the UK, Scotland actually, a full time automotive electrical specialist. Very talented technician.

The bearing hub is spinning, on the spindle that holds the hub is where sound should travel. C/V shaft runs through the spindle so so their noise will also transfer. . I use an engine stethoscope, worth about $15 from Princess Auto/Harbor Freight. As the bearing gets worse the sound keeps increasing each week with the extra play. Eventually it’s obvious which wheel it is.

The 2918 shouldn’t be lifted because it’s already a hover car I’m guessing. ?

If mil light is on scan for codes first. Sometimes bad bearing will trigger abs fault code for that wheel. The extra play in bearing causing it. Give the c/v shaft boots on the bad bearing wheel a real close look if the mileage is high. Only adds a few minutes to change shaft at same time if it’s needed. New non oem shafts not too pricy. Some people change wheel bearings in pairs. A hand held temp sensor might also isolate problem bearing being hotter. Having weight on one wheel and strong jack stands, spinning wheel will isolate the source if awd shaft removed. PIA how ever.

Is it following engine speed.? Lots of stuff spinning on the awd Journey. Has the front PTU ever had the fluid changed before ? Brilliant engineering having no dipstick to check level of 75w90 oil. Have to dump it out to confirm level then refill the correct amount, 800 ml I believe. Clean the fur off the magnetic drain plug. it’s most likely a front wheel bearing. But it could also be awd component related. Some Mechanics have vibration monitoring equipment to confirm bad bearings. AWD makes it a bit trickier to do a DIY analysis. Sometimes with wheel off the ground and taking wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock position you can confirm which side has excess play from wear. Other wise it’s removing awd drive shaft ( after match marking yoke location) then running car with one wheel in the air at a time. The louder spinning wheel in the air will be your bad bearing. Good luck. Careful not to ruff up your abs sensors if you change a wheel bearing.

Small tractor tires are really tough, I agree. ATV tires which have a double bead are the worst for removing, not as bad when setting bead. Sometimes removing the valve stem internals gives better flow for pushing bead in place. Tire shops often do it this way.

There is a bleeder screw built into the plastic thermostat housing on front of 3.6 engine. It’s also useful to get rid of air entrapment.