John/Horace

If mil light is on scan for codes first. Sometimes bad bearing will trigger abs fault code for that wheel. The extra play in bearing causing it. Give the c/v shaft boots on the bad bearing wheel a real close look if the mileage is high. Only adds a few minutes to change shaft at same time if it’s needed. New non oem shafts not too pricy. Some people change wheel bearings in pairs. A hand held temp sensor might also isolate problem bearing being hotter. Having weight on one wheel and strong jack stands, spinning wheel will isolate the source if awd shaft removed. PIA how ever.

Is it following engine speed.? Lots of stuff spinning on the awd Journey. Has the front PTU ever had the fluid changed before ? Brilliant engineering having no dipstick to check level of 75w90 oil. Have to dump it out to confirm level then refill the correct amount, 800 ml I believe. Clean the fur off the magnetic drain plug. it’s most likely a front wheel bearing. But it could also be awd component related. Some Mechanics have vibration monitoring equipment to confirm bad bearings. AWD makes it a bit trickier to do a DIY analysis. Sometimes with wheel off the ground and taking wheel at 9 and 3 o’clock position you can confirm which side has excess play from wear. Other wise it’s removing awd drive shaft ( after match marking yoke location) then running car with one wheel in the air at a time. The louder spinning wheel in the air will be your bad bearing. Good luck. Careful not to ruff up your abs sensors if you change a wheel bearing.

Small tractor tires are really tough, I agree. ATV tires which have a double bead are the worst for removing, not as bad when setting bead. Sometimes removing the valve stem internals gives better flow for pushing bead in place. Tire shops often do it this way.

There is a bleeder screw built into the plastic thermostat housing on front of 3.6 engine. It’s also useful to get rid of air entrapment.

Yeah I agree, it’s zoom zoom and then boom boom eventually with turbos. Having swapped a water pump in a 3.6 Journey...yeah there’s no room there for anything with the transverse mount engine. The weight of the V8 will be a challenge. The subframe customization even more so. This whole project is more effort than it’s worth. Unless it’s a bucket list item.

Kinda neat. I prefer using a ratchet strap over ether. Safer for eye brows etc. https://jalopnik.com/how-not-to-set-a-bead-on-a-tire-1847019195

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwii57q7p4nxAhWpl-AKHZ0tBScQwqsBMAJ6BAgKEAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMNjbwr7w-b0&usg=AOvVaw1CoCigB-4c3cXt01KVOcKA Under dash behind steering column. Awkward spot.

Not likely plug and play replacement. Maybe reseat connection on tranny first. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,electrical,powertrain+control+module+(pcm),10780

The gps tracking device are really small, like the size of a pack of matches. Powered by a 3 volt lithium but linked to ecm so they can create parasitic load. I use to have an old one I took off a front bumper crash bar. Strong magnet held it in place. They often installed under a bumper cover etc so very tricky to find. Understandable for dealer to not see it or be aware of its existence. Lots of rental cars and luxury vehicles have them installed. Great invention that closed a lot of chop shops when they first came out. AGM batteries are better for vehicles that don’t get used a lot, slower discharge and faster recharge. Becoming std equipment on lots of Lexus and other luxury cars. More money, but the gap is closing so worth considering.

There was a guy on here about a year ago who swapped out 3.5 head gaskets. I searched but couldn’t find it. Maybe removing front motor mounts and lowering engine from below to tilt away from fire wall will create enough clearance.

Although there is no replacement for displacement, as the saying goes. Jamming turbos on the 6 would be an easier compromise. The 6 speed auto tranny would have to be beefed up substantially. No V8 exhaust note....would be disappointing. My Ram has the fun 5.7 hemi in it.

Which engine, how many miles. Oil pressure follows rpms usually, so that’s the variable part AFAIK. Could be some kind of electrical throttling valve, but I doubt it. The v6 runs pretty high for oil pressure normally, so 96 psi isn’t terrible. Mechanics can hook up an oil pressure gauge and confirm that number.

https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/65881464/5149062AA.html About $47 Canadian pesos. Screwed into end of oil heat exchanger under hood. Could be wire harness related and sensor is ok.

Sounds like a great project. You would need some serious plasma cutter and MIG welding fabrication skillls to pull this off to be street legal. Would the MTO require an inspection and recertification for this extensive a make over; like they do with written off car accident vehicles, I wonder. Would be a blast to drive if you can do it.

Need the right left diverter for accurate depiction. Heater core box has two chambers for diff temp. So partly plugged heater core you would think would affect both sides equally. So I agree problem may have some other variable we don’t know about. Sticking or internally broken door actuator comes to mind. Actually temp probe stuck in vent is nice for accurate data.

It’s not just weight when considering towing. Front surface area effects drag which puts a lot of load on tranny. But a small front profile 500 # boat, plus gear plus trailer which might be 200 pounds puts you at limit if car full of people as well. Should be doable. Full synthetic ATF+4 is a good idea if towing.

Your early rad failure Probak118 might also be tied to the sand residue in system. Friend had the similar problem with a 3.6 in a 2012 Ram. Cylinder head that year was the most $ problem, mainly passenger side I think.

The inner hub flange design does look slightly different. Both say Borg Warner, who I think generally make good stuff. They are used across the automotive industry by many car/truck builders. Electric clutches are more common on awd systems on newer vehicles than viscous couplers. My old 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a New Process WD249 full time awd set up with a viscous coupler. Which started to bunny hop at around 250k kms. I think they contain silicone type fluid that eventually wears out and starts to gel and stays partially engaged. They can be rebuilt I believe. Failing at 75k miles seems early. They are a part time set up; getting stuck and spinning out excessively might do some damage. You kept your rear diff in place and just bolted in coupler, correct.

Give the c/v shaft lip seals on the diff housing a real good look. Mine literally rotted out and started leaking slightly. I think the metal component is aluminum on the lip seals. Very easy to pop out now and put in new ones, I used one over priced oem and one from Rockauto. About 45 k kms now and no leaks. The new ones I sprayed with Fluid Film a very pricy liquid rust inhibitor. Hoping not not have to do again. I have had vehicles with well over 200k on this style seal with no issues what so ever. AWD on most newer car is next to no maintenance. Wife’s Santa Fe went to 375k kms with maybe $100 of oil and one hangar bearing.

Great pics, thanks for posting that, lots of people have awd. Looks like you know what your doing. Good info, I will probably swap my driveshaft out soon, over 200k kilometres now, may drive without for short spell. All diffs etc get dirty, it’s the internal oil that matter more. Although I find my unit always has very dirty oil when dumped, compared to pick ups or Jeep diffs that I have worked on. If it’s not triggered to engage by wheel slippage or wiper use (not confirmed) maybe no light comes on.

On a nice sunny day do a dry run on changing a flat on the new v hi less. Drop down tire, figure out jacking points etc. Changing it out in the dark in a hurry without a dry run can be a pia. Having learned the hard way once, took 15 mins in dark to figure out where jack was even located, I do a dry run now. My rear flashlight in Journey still works, cool option.

It’s a bit of a long shot. Plastic intake manifold has seals for each cyclinder. You buy as a set or individually . It’s possible extra air is getting in from bad seal or there have been cases of a cracked plastic manifold. Usually from car accident etc. Not common just throwing it out there. MAP pressure or injector would give a specific code I think. Cylinder pressure and leak down tests on cylinder 6 would be useful.

Welcome to Forum, body looks quite decent still. First cars always have a few special memories attatched. First time locking keys in car, running battery dead, first flat tire, and the other better stuff. Congrats.

And you thought your Journey v6 was hard to work on. Here he is again with a new tooth brush I think. I like his subtle change and watch your oil messages.

Welcome. ??