John/Horace

https://jalopnik.com/lets-talk-to-the-hero-who-methodically-parked-in-every-1846782073

Horn and ignition wiring not connected, stalling probably co-incidence. Scan for codes and probably replace $30 CPS sensor. Unhook horn wiring plug and car will still stall anyway. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2011,journey,2.4l+l4,1447563,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196

Very weird problem. I wonder if it’s tied into cruise control some how, it’s wiring is in the steering column. Maybe pull fuse or relay for cruise control and see if horn still shuts car down. How many miles on car, which engine ? Any stored codes, check even if mil light not on. Cars shutting off without notice can be CPS sensor. Doesn’t always store a code. A wear part and not expensive. At $200 for an estimate, you could try a few educated guesses first.

Any after market electronics add ons installed ?. Trailer hitch wiring added recently? Early for an alternator, especially since oem unit is Denso a very good make. Load test alternator with most dash stuff turned on and car running, should measure approx 13-14 volts under hood.

What style of wiretap For dash work? https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html I find this type bad for corrosion on exposed wiring like trailer hitches. No seal at all. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj2j9jwsKHwAhWDbm8EHSG4C8QYABAHGgJqZg&ohost=www.google.ca&cid=CAASEuRodRPdv4IMPdg035yS1I7z0w&sig=AOD64_0uNVI5jwgRZWG-1oorLDYrH8_Esg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiTv87wsKHwAhUTac0KHV9RCUoQ5bgDegQIARBk&adurl=

Maybe you can narrow it down to one fuse that you can pull for killing power. Easier than main ground. I had an F150 with a parasitic dash power issue. Problem was tied to a delayed power off feature for radio, that was triggered by aux contact on drivers door switch. Hours of searching in the cold to find it. Almost by accident.

The low resistance value of led bulbs creates a problem with can bus system in wire harness. Either load resisters can be added or can bus friendly bulbs, or maybe Alfaobd program to change settings for led bulbs. What are CAN Bus LED Bulbs? CAN Bus LED bulbs are LED bulbs which are made specifically for CAN Bus-equipped vehicles. These bulbs work with your vehicle's advanced computer system, so when your vehicle's computer reads them, they respond back correctly.F

Good cheap plug and play simple unit, no abs or airbag or transmission codes. https://www.amazon.ca/MaxiScan-Universal-Retrieving-Readiness-Diagnostic/dp/B07QTJCDVK/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_2/136-4723615-2408656?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07QTJCDVK&pd_rd_r=6a49fd7f-51d3-4b78-aa18-5ac44087f1e9&pd_rd_w=V3vkr&pd_rd_wg=KGwp8&pf_rd_p=e3a1248d-31f8-4a3e-8bd9-de32736d5db8&pf_rd_r=XB1NT242GXJ9SBP0HMPS&psc=1&refRID=XB1NT242GXJ9SBP0HMPS

Is it a flashing lightning bolt symbol. Is car still able to run? Are there any codes stored in ecm?

If flush means against socket, new ones aren’t expensive and give enough wire to splice into harness with. Avoid just taping connections if possible. It dries out and falls off. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical-bulb+&+socket,headlamp+socket,4056

I’m not familiar with can bus programming. Would panic button be a complex rke function request. Rear hatch has door lock only that I’ve seen, no auto hatch motors on Journeys. Software must be used on multiple vehicles. CAN-C Bussed Inputs 2: PRND Status: Park Engine RPM: 0 rpm Ignition Switch Status: OFF/ACC Position RKE Basic Function Request: No RKE Complex Function Request: No Vehicle speed: 0.00 km/h

Try scanning for codes. There are a bunch of codes for the vvt solenoids. They have a filter that might prevent any pieces getting into engine. The lifters are solid, not likely from there. That is definitely not a drill bit shaving; save that sample. A compression and leak down test might show if there is an issue with a cylinder. This other pic is of a thrust washer, part of timing chain assembly. The metal may not even be related to the noise, but it is a good place to start.

Interesting discussion. I changed my upstream O2 when I was on top of them doing other repairs. At 140-180k kms range without any codes having turned up. Expensive gas country affects the logic for this decision. Didn’t really notice appreciable mpg change.? https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/scheduled-replacement-of-o2-sensors.313428/

The 225F oil temp max quoted above is for dino oil. Full synthetic I believe 300F is considered max. Buried in stuff on site. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

I’m not an electronics expert, but I was on web site for 5 mins. Way too few technical specs for camera etc, does not seem legitimate.

I’m pretty sure you have to replace entire switch. If you have experience with taking dash’s apart it’s doable but awkward. Plastic trim removal tool and patience. There are utube video clips. Either remove radio and go through opening or remove trim below switch and reach up from under neath to release clips. Damaging old switch not an issue on removal. Part should be plug and play no programming. Not cheap around $100 in Canadian pesos for OEM. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,3.6l+v6,3309784,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

BITOG bob is the oil guy is good source of oil information. They say 20 weight oil is ok up to 225F ish. Clip pasted below. A vehicle driven in a "normal and benign" way will live on 20 with oil at 200~225 F. A vehicle pushed very hard while towing or hauling heavy loads, or on a track will probably live better on 30, 40 or 50 depending how hot the oil is going to get (250~300+F). Even 5W-20 could be fine on a track too if the vehicle has crazy oil coolers that would always keep the oil at 225 F all day long. It all depends on the expected max oil temperatures on how thin you can safely go. I’m not a big fan of snake oil additives in general, but some people have had luck with them. If you are positive the sound is internal, a sticking valve lifter or timing chain hydraulic tensioner might be helped by an additive. With the number of 2.4 ‘s you have on the road, you know what they should sound like.

I would grab a few sheet metal screws and washers and secure it again. The heat shields are there for a reason. Wife’s Journey 3.6 heat guard started hanging down and rubbing on driveshaft, had to add fasteners last year. There have been grass fires from missing catalytic converter guards. Carpeting and electrical is protected sometimes as well. They are really flimsy and not well secured.

Welcome to the forum. What has a mechanic said it is ? Free advice worth everything you pay for it. Could be quite a few different things. Starting it cold for 10 seconds with surpentine belt removed should eliminate a spinning component like alternator, water pump, a/c idler, pwr steering pump various idler bearings etc on front of engine. Might create a few check engine lights afterwards for no charging etc. Dont run it for too long. After that you move on to internal stuff like timing chain tensioner, valve train components etc. The 2.4 is not exactly a quiet engine in the first place. Cold engines tend to be a bit louder in general.

Great transmission news. The really expensive item you can’t fix your self seems to be ok. Surprised there is no magnet in pan, most pans I have dropped have one. Some people even add a second magnet to help trap filings. Noise should be something on the cheaper end of things. The vibration analysis equip you listed could be used for wheel bearings via the spindle housing or main crank shaft bearings via block measurements.. Spinning shafts like c/v or drive shafts would be measured with an ultrasonic very expensive sensing device. Bearings are bench marked when new then periodically measured for progressive wear over time. Really meant for high end air compressors and other critical components in $ factory equipment. Kinda hard to justify for $125 c/v shafts etc. Source of noise is going to be a little tricky to isolate. https://www.cbmconnect.com/ultrasonic-predictive-maintenance-monitoring-bearing-wear/ https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwizjIigwInwAhWxbG8EHcWkALcYABAFGgJqZg&ohost=www.google.ca&cid=CAASEuRo66NCc52z-b9b15AZXGqKEQ&sig=AOD64_3u5_5AFAIH6wdxBJtDogi0Hg4e6g&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjQzYGgwInwAhUHWs0KHRhHBKwQ5bgDegQIARBA&adurl= On front wheel drive cars I have isolated c/v or bearing noises by jacking one wheel in the air and running car at medium speed. A little un-nerving but the car will stay put as spider gears slip. The Side generating noise should become obvious. AWD would how ever require removing driveshaft to do this. Sometimes the c/v boots are not leaking grease yet, but the bearings are still at early wear stages and generating noise. You may have to drive longer for the sound to become more pronounced so you can isolate it. It doesn’t seem like a catastrophic failure item.

Post doesn’t say they do. Context. Read 5-6 posts above. Discussion was about Jasper rebuild transmissions and if crate rebuilds were ok versus transmission shops. Cvt is part of the push to crate rebuilds, People also associate weird shifting with cvt’s. So kinda on topic.

Some times the threat of a lawyer is more useful than the reality. A simple piece of paper from a lawyer as a starter might convince them not be jerks. Full lawsuit a lot of hazzle ...with risk of not winning.

"Your Corner Wrench: Making the right connections with connecting pins – New and Used Car Reviews, Comparisons and News | Driving" https://driving.ca/column/corner-wrench/your-corner-wrench-making-the-right-connections-with-connecting-pins/amp

Yes. I'm ignoring AWD shaft for now. Could paint mark connections on it, remove the and drive without it to eliminate that. Unlike c\v shafts. There's a flex coupling on one end, could inspect it.

C/V shafts can have a varying sound that goes away at certain speeds sometimes. There are 3 shafts on Journey. After market not that expensive, even new after market which aren’t quite a good IMO as OEM.