John/Horace

Is this the same part. These guys are good for Canada, do ship. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/Dodge_2012_Journey-RT-Sport-Utility-36L-Pentastar-V6-FLEX-AT-FWD/Module-Control-GPS-Navigation-Mobile-Phone-Telematics--Code-RSQ-Control-ModuleS/49860131/68222279AA.html

It’s just straight oil no clutches. No LSD additives at all. Just buy a good quality gear oil.

Wow that’s tough. Nasty when shops take advantage of people and don’t know what they are doing. There should be codes that indicate what is causing problem which mechanics can retrieve with a scanner. Its probably throttle or gas pedal sensor related problem that the lightning bolt dash light is showing. Talk to someone you trust for a mechanic they use. Better times ahead.

Because someone posted a pic of him and his ?‍⬛.

Tie rods and ball joints are tire eaters $ and big potential safety issues. Never good having tires pointing in different directions. Sway bars and lateral links clanking more annoying than safety. Affect handling a bit so eventually have to be addressed. Journey suspension more involved then a lot of simple Mac strut systems on the older cars; but handling is better. If you can isolate noise down to specific bushing or part so shops can’t play top 10 guesses; you can save your self a bit of money. The quality of roads you drive on have a large effect on suspension component durability IMO.

The in tank filters are pretty much life time I have read, but plugging up is always possible. New pump sending unit would come with new filter. Fpr fuel pressure regulator on pump could be failing in tank. That link will explain how to test for that. Probably clamping return line under hood when pressurized and seeing no drop in pressure. Injectors upstream not leaking if it holds ...problem probably downstream in tank by process of elimination. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,2.4l+l4,1444145,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+&+housing+assembly,10147

Welcome to forum. Try searching the site, there are some postings on similar problems. New battery often only have partial charge; should always full charge before install. The blue tooth module staying on is the most common parasitic drain for battery issues; pulling fuse if you aren’t using it is a quick fix. Glove box light staying on, web camera plugged in, after market alarm systems can be causes. If you have a meter try testing alternator output. With car running measure voltage on under hood remote contacts; scratch probes to get a constant number. Should be 13.0-14.8 approx. Turn on a few things that draw heavy, heated seats, rear defrost, heater fan on full. Test voltage again under hood scratching probes. It shouldn’t really drop more than 12.8-13.5 ish under load. Lower than that and alternator getting weak. Good luck.

It’s never a great time for health issues; and right now has to be the worst time. Hope she comes through it ok. Trouble shooting with spray lube, cool idea. WD40 never seems to stay long as a lube. I found a pic of a lower control arm, it’s posted below. Bushing are available as a separate part but you probably won’t find a Tec interested in changing just the bushing. Between the rust that builds up on the arm and the labor required to press in bushing; more cost effective to change whole arm. Sometimes alignment needed afterwards.

SAE AWD classifications Part-time asynchronous / Synchronous Full-time fixed torque / Variable-torque passive / Variable-torque active On-demand synchronous variable-torque passive / Active On-demand independently powered variable-torque active

Want to get a head ache reading about awd systems. https://jalopnik.com/how-all-wheel-drive-works-a-ridiculously-detailed-tech-1846233533

The 60ish psi number is close to spec from what I have read. Black smoke after hard starts they say is often sign of a leaky fuel injector. Diagnosing is a lot better than parts throwing. But very time consuming. That link has stupid amounts of fuel injection info.

Varying heat the first thing to check is glycol level; low level can cause this to happen. Also bad dash electrical actuator switches. Common issue if you search site. Fried phone very strange, fuse should have blown on outlet. My wife’s alternator puked at around 100k miles, a little early. Original battery on 2015 , surprising.

Hopefully someone else with answer your question as well. It’s the fpr, fuel pressure regulator that creates pressure in system, not the fuel pump. Some fpr are on fuel rail with a vacuum supply line; other like the 3.6 Journey I believe are integrated into fuel pump itself. Pretty sure 3.5 is on rail which is easier to test. I don’t think you should never see zero like you are. Pressure with key on/off should hold for around 5 mins then slowly drop, but still have significant pressure after 15 mins approx. The following link is lengthy read, but explains how to test if leaky injector, fpr or bad pump. Best write up I’ve seem, so many different systems out there. If you are going to pinch rubber lines, use a rag etc to protect from vice grips. Fire extinguisher around when working on gas always a good idea. https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-Test-a-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator

Not always I’ve heard. Sometimes car shuts down instantly from missed signal and no code stored. Happened on daughter in law 2012 Journey like that. Make sure it sits nice and flush in place. People have had old o ring stay in place and it prevented correct function when new sensor put in. Hyundai Elantra issue friend had one time.

Not a safety item really, or pressurized. He mentioned budget considerations. Thermowelding kit if you had one and knew how to use it better. New item not exactly cheap. Wrecker or LKQ better. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-intake-manifold-5184693ae

Interesting. Should be fixable with JB Weld or one of the other automotive expoxy compounds. File the bottom flat where it meets up with other components to keep torque specs accurate. I would try to reuse for sure. Heat and long hiway miles I don’t think that hard on a vehicle. Extended idling and stop and go city worse IMO. So much plastic on all the cars for weight reduction. Mechanics often have thermo welding kits for doing this kind of repair. Tube epoxy should be good enough. Pretty appearance not relevant, just strong.

Belt can squeak and not be riding edge; plies in carcass can start to break down internally. Tensioner pulley he changed bad/noisy out of the box...,yeah possible. Tensioner spring mechanism weak, maybe but burning rubber smell and very loud squeal not symptoms. If noises started when alternator was changed; it could be source. Crank pulley sometimes have multiple shims, alternator may have a single washer on the armature shaft shoulder. During reman process (new are major $’s usually) wrong thickness spacer shim or out of spec pulley installed...also possible IMO. Expensive big amp output unit, not that likely. Water pump I assume is original. Sound not changing with temperature, and no talk of glycol leaks. So pump bearing should be fine for a while. A/c compressor idler starting to get noisy, another possibility.

Should start new thread. Oil cooler gushes when bad. Valve cover gasket failure seeps. Lower intake can stay in place during plug change; but you are disturbing intake assembly ; creates potential for problems.

Wow perseverance. You don’t give up buddy, glad you found it. That has to be it. When I changed my oil cooler I had the lower intake removed. The fasteners also seemed a little loose on mine, but car was running fine except for the oil leak. I used an inch pound torque wrench because of all the plastic being fastened together. No atv used but I payed a fortune for the dealer seals in case there was a possible difference. I saw China stamped on Mopar bag after the fact. Sometimes in car accidents the plastic intake manifolds get cracked; if you think car might have been in one you could look for tiny cracks and maybe use silicone. Or buy a used manifold from wreckers. Wow, what a journey, thanks for the follow up. Cheers.

Bluetooth usually comes on when car is started, Radio setting is to pair with phone and make it functional. I think unit will still draw power even if it not set up; if car running...it’s drawing power. When Bluetooth module screws up it stays on drawing power even with car off and key removed.

https://www.thedrive.com/cars-101/39491/the-most-time-wasted-on-simple-repairs

Nice clip. Sounds like belt chirp. The gates micro V belt almost looks like it has an extra ply when you hold it against other belts. Oem factory belts need to last out warranty period, so are a slightly premium product. Awkward job swapping belts out on the 3.6; I always toss my old surpentine belt in with the spare tire on my vehicles. In an emergency a ratty worn squeaky belt is better than no belt.

Welcome to site. Yeah inside at passenger feet is most of the interior power fuses in a panel. Blue tooth module acting up is the worst parasitic drain issue on Journey, search site. Can pull fuse easily. How many miles, which engine ? Cars have a go to sleep sequence when the car is shut off; need to have doors closed and wait a few minutes before it will drop to lowest draw. Approx 50-100 milli amps for clock etc.

In some cases they are work vehicles as well, a tool needed to do your job. Used trucks hold there value more for this reason I think. Even the crappiest old truck can still be used on a farm or Bush lot to do stuff. And are cheaper than an ATV or quad. Some people that bought suv ‘s have now moved over to pick ups because of the better resale which affects leases and loans so much. Fuel economy and comfort close enough to most suv as well. So the why is....supply and demand and market economics ; unfortunately. Carbon taxes to the rescue, soon?.

My sequence for a 3.6 engine belt squeak was a little different. Squeaking noise was tensioner pulley and a new belt was installed(because of milage) and squeak gone ; then following year alternator went. The original idler and tensioner bearings seem on the cheap side. If you shake a bearing in your hand you should never hear a rattle, new or old. Grease was gone and bearings were very dry, internal wear probably so have to change. Complete tensioner is pricy so I only bought the pulley by itself. If the belt looked glazed from slipping I would have bought tensioner assembly. Idler pulley was changed during alternator job. Awkward to change later, rattled when shaken. Quality of belt is important I find. Gates Micro V make a lot of OEM belts, it’s my first choice...they are more money. Believe it or not a belt can make a squeak all by itself. Goodyear Gator Back belts have given me problems in the past, I wouldn’t use one. Alternator mounts in a fixed location against front of engine, should not be any lateral adjustment needed. Also if you spin alternator pulley without a belt; ignore any slight noises the brushes make, completely normal. Clean degreased pulleys helpful when belts replaced.