John/Horace

Very nice truck he bought. Diesel is the best for serious towing. I’ve never owned a new pickup. My brother and I drive ram 1500 gas trucks. The independent suspension gives a real nice ride. Good value compared to other full size trucks. If you have a second vehicle you can keep the miles down for gas use. One truck has the 3.6 Journey engine mounted in line. You can work on it so easily its nuts, water pump is a 25 minute job verses 2 hr-ish for Journey. That engine with an 8 speed tranny is a very efficient set up for a pickup. But not the power like the diesel.

Oops I thought it was the 3.5 belt engine, the 2.4 is a chain. Ignore that comment about belt. Is there excessive chain noise when the engine is running ?

ECM rarely fail on most vehicles IMO. I have heard of it happening on occasion. I would swap in a mopar sensor first, maybe pay dealer to try and do an auto learn before dropping $450 on a guess. But before that you need to check other stuff first. When was the timing belt and tensioner changed on the engine? If you can remove part of one of the upper timing covers, I would. Rotate crank shaft slowly and inspect the exposed belt very closely; look for fraying of belt or more importantly a few damaged teeth on the belt. If belt has jumped a tooth engine will run, but shake like hell being out around 8 degrees of timing. If that is problem, change belt quick before bending valves when belt slips more.

They are usually plug and play on most vehicles, I’ve changed cps on five or six different vehicles before and never had to program one, just lucky I guess. Is it a Dorman sensor or oem? Auto relearn needs a proper scanner unit with the right up to date software, there are suppose to be ways to manually reset. Pasted from a another Dodge forum is a procedure. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. The first way: 1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect. 2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. 3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds. 4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want. The second way: 1) With the key out of the ignition 2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable. 3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it. 4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min 5) Remove key from the ignition. 6) Re-attach the negative battery cable. 7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!! 8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. 9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds. 10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE! 11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s) 12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet. 13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time… 14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want. The third way: 1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent) 2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes) 3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!) 4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so) 5) Turn key off 6) Re-install fuse 7) You're good to go ... and last. This is from a past DT thread: You can do what is often called a "hard dump". We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry". First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE. Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya. Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now. Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO) Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming. ============================================= The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects. =============================================

Not an easy thing to work on, or a cheap repair. I hope to not have to deal with this thing at some point. If it works out, posting back with info about where you got diagram etc would be helpful for the site. Good luck hope it isolates problem.

Welcome to the forum. Should use oem crank sensor for a critical ignition component, it’s not much more $. You could still have a bad coil still that is causing a plug to misfire. What engine is it. How long was it driven with the flashing engine light ? Who did the work, mechanic ?

Troll.

During extended no start cranking there would be no power at fuel pump relay from TIPM. People have made up a fuel pump TIPM bypass pigtail with a section of wiring; wouldn’t be easy. Used wrecker TIPM could be another cheaper option. It was nice when car were simpler. Not sure if corrosion or heat damage always visible on bad TIPM. Rockauto might be cheapest new part source.

What the actual code numbers you have coming up. Early Journey had some TIPM module issues which is also tied into fuel pump. Could pull it out to look for green corrosion starting. Fuel pump relay could also be acting up, swap with a different relay.

I belong to several forums. Some kinda bug you to sign up for stuff like that. They offer enhanced search function, fancy avatars, more photo uploads etc. It’s nice to use forums for evaluating vehicle reliability. Usually I hang around a while when I start to consider buying a vehicle. Good unbiased info hard to find these days.

Lots of useful info about how fuel injection and pump work in the post. The crank sensor is used to measure engine RPM so yes it would be part of the control logic for the fuel pump.

https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0191-dodge-journey/

When it warms up a bit get the Journey up on stands and wipe c/v joint boots with a clean rag. Look for sign of a grease leak coming from boot. That will be the bad joint if there is one. Will turn to a knock sound when the wear gets worse. One side has a c/v shaft and an intermediate shaft that can generate noise from wear.

Does the car ever stall out after it’s running on occasion. CPS sensor can affect pump coming on, but more often it causes car to randomly stall when signal to computer from sensor drops out. Wear item and fairly cheap part...not easily to trouble shoot.

Pump as far as I know comes on based on pressure in line on start up. Is the slow start on cold starts only, or is it on hot/warm restarts only.? A pressure gauge would tell you if pump is not running when it should be, or if it’s low, going by pump noise not great. Weak pumps in my experience show up on hot days when you try try to restart a car that was already running. The heat creates extra pump clearance and drops pressure needed for injectors and normal start up.

Extended crank could be a variety of things from a weak battery, cold weather which effects fuel trim (rich/ lean via O2 sensors) to various other things. Hard to say exact cause. Not throwing parts at it but trying to diagnose is the right approach. If no pressure regulator on fuel rail, or codes related to it, then maybe clear present codes and see if they come back again. How high are the k’s on engine? Oxygen sensors are not cheap, but they have big impact on fuel economy and possibly starting. Although cars AFAIK start with default fuel settings on injectors and only try to change rich/lean settings in closed loop mode after engine has reached full operating temp. As confirmed by engine temp sensor feeding back to ecm computer.

Fuel pumps don’t run continuously until engine is actually running. Key switch makes them pressurize and then shut off; once crank position sensor etc start to communicate then coil and fuel pump get constant power via ecm logic (more or less). Fuel pressure does bleed off over time, direction injection is different with two fuel pumps involved, google details. Some pumps variable speed, others constant with return lines to tank, lots of different systems There is fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum hose on fuel rail of some systems. Can affect start up I believe. What codes are you getting? Always start with codes. Although some fuel issues like CPS sensors failing don’t always generate codes. If there is a schrader valve on fuel rail for gauge, checking actual pressure can also be useful when the problem is occurring. Remember free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Some times it’s just getting access to wires, not necessarily only a skill thing. If you have a butane solder unit it helps with non bench soldering I find. I think I’ll buy some for trailer wiring splices.

Not as good as professional soldering job, but better than crappy butt splices. Have not seen in person yet or know pricing. https://jalopnik.com/meet-the-incredible-contraption-that-makes-splicing-wir-1846294008

You might be better off with a door harness assembly if the wires are super brittle,. Breaks can be repaired with solder and heat shrink but it gets time consuming. There are articles that say the newer wires on pretty much all cars are made of some environmentally friendly soy or organic based plastic coating now. Critters like to chew on them more than in the past; although not related to your problem. Frustrating and awkward to work on problem. I battled something similar on the first year of Grand Cherokee Jeep’s; when the truck had 200k miles on it. Local wrecker had a loose damaged door lying around and I was able to buy just harness and learn how everything came apart without breaking stuff. Upull section of car wreckers can be good for that sometimes. But in the summer weather.

They can in all vehicles I have ever worked on. There are brackets with screws clearly visible in your picture that need to be disassembled. I haven’t taken rad out of a journey yet. But rads usually have two brackets to hold top to upper rad cradle and the bottom of rad usually have two small feet that fit into grommet holes in lower rad cradle. On the journey the feet are square in picture and fit into slots in lower cradle. Take your time and be gentle as you can with a/c condesnor, don’t want to cause refrigerant leak. It’s a light weight aluminum coil. People will sometimes remove the bolts from upper rad cradle with hood latch attatched to it and swing it out of the way. Pics are for v6 radiator. Check the Utube experts.

With hydraulic power steering and 4 speed transmissions, Journeys are state of the ark. No servo racks or blind spot monitoring calibrations to worry about. Nice really. I have an older Autel 619 that seems to work ok, no more firmware updates so I need to get something newer. Would be nice to hhhaave some TPMS analysis ability on a scanner sometimes. Although Dodge systems work pretty well. Will look at the launch products, you have me curious.

There is a recall on the catalytic converters on the 2.4 engines. My daughter in law just had her’s replaced on a 2012. It is not mileage dependant. I would phone dealer with vin in your hand, you might be in luck. The plugs need changing every 60k on the 4 cyclinder, they are cheap copper core plugs used. Running plugs too long with cyclinder misfire can plug up catalytic converters and creat catalytic converter efficiency codes.

Sometimes winter fuel ethanol can make cars run a little worse. Techron cleaner in the tank and see if you can make code go away in a week or so. There are so many other O2 codes for lean and rich and heating element etc. But efficiency I think is usually cat itself. Even if it comes back, if it’s not affecting drive ability or fuel economy, I would let it slide. Unless state inspection dictates other wise.

We have a place that is like your Harbour Freight but smaller with less selection. It’s called Princess Auto, lots of surplus stuff generally good prices on cheaper China tools. I think I paid around $35 around 4 yrs ago for it. Great trouble shooting tool. The guy with brake light switch issue said they were on during problem. Not sure how much both lights draw when fully on, worth looking at for power draw anyway in case only partly engaged. Is there any aftermarket stuff wired in to car that might have been added to abs circuit? Some remote start units use a brake signal. With our remote battery terminals I would still try to test right at fuse. Remote terminals aren’t the same as testing right on the battery terminals, there is extra power drop and grounding issues. Mark abs relay under hood and swap it’s location with another identical relay. Bad coil in relay another possibility.