John/Horace

You don’t have a forgotten blue tooth obd11 scanner plugged into under dash outlet? For real parasitic load you need to wait a minute or two with doors closed and everything turned off. There is a go to sleep type function that needs to kick in. I think around 100 milli amps is the most you should see for digital clocks etc on most cars. Glove box and trunk lights are common hidden battery killer. No after market remote starts or dash cams ad ons ? Good luck.

Yeah fob communicates with wireless module to close the loop for starting. I think there is an antennae as well. Could ask for a diagnosis of problem first. They should should be able to pin point problem first without throwing a lot of parts at it. Don’t just sign a blank work order and say fix it. Ask for communication and details up front. You have tried flipping battery in fob the opposite way to make sure there is proper polarity.

Thanks for the follow up info, helps the rest of us. They don’t have to replace flex coupling with the drive shaft I think; parts are sold individually. Shaft by itself is very pricy, you have scored some very expensive warranty repairs so far. Agree you want to keep warranty in affect as long as possible. Not much left to replace on your awd system except the ptu right close to front seats. It’s a transfer case they call a power take off unit . Metal filings in the oil would probably confirm a bearing wear issue. Another $1k ish item at least. Let them keep throwing parts at it; if they aren’t capable of diagnosing things it’s their problem. Most awd vehicles can be driven without driveshaft for a few minutes to help isolate drive line noises. Generates lights on dash and codes that can be easily cleared afterwards. Weird problems for a low mileage vehicle, not that common I believe.

Unfortunately I think fob could be bad. So buying and programming new remote might be needed, could phone and ask if they can do it without car being there.

Exhaust hanger donut, cheap and not that critical compared to abs and brake lights. Check your brake fluid level first, if pedal is soft you will need to fix ASAP. Need to check for codes to see what problem is, probably abs wheel sensor needs changing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge

If you have a second key fob, try if it helps. Could measure fob new battery voltage, new batteries is 3.3 volts usually. Anything 3 and over should work. Placing fob right against the start button and pressing is supposed to start car. Unhooking battery probably won’t do anything. Car keeps fob settings even without power.

So flex plate from cvt engine bolts right up to regular automatic tranny flex plate, no difference?

Lots of issues like cvt transmission on some compass models, I believe. It still could fit, auto recycler would probably be able to figure it out. Might have to reuse intake manifold from Journey. LKQ have pretty good search options if you are patient. https://www.lkqonline.com/

If not starting from battery going dead remove fuse for blue tooth module, search site it’s a know issue. If it’s just randomly stalling replace CPS crank position sensor, fairly cheap wear item. If not starting but turning over and it’s fuel pump, pressure gauge etc will show this...TIPM module is possible. Relay built into wire harness can be by passed or new harness section installed. Lots on data around. https://circuitboardmedics.com/tipm-module-repairs/

How long is repair warranty? Complete rebuild was what, torque converter, pump and solenoid pack.? How many miles before rebuild was done, and since rebuild. Input and output speed sensors issues can create sudden shifts.

Tire shop can use a wire wheel and remove the corrosion back to bare material. A heavy coat of good bead sealer will fix leak for quite a while. Tire shops do this all the time. If the rim has impact damage that is leaking; you will need another rim. Steel sometimes fixable but not aluminum.

Noise can travel on a vehicle making it hard to pinpoint, Some shops have a vibration sensing tool they can use to zero in on noise. If you are close to end of warranty, wait and see not great. Try to get something in writing about the noise, might be useful later. Sometimes the same part on cars is given three different names, can be confusing. Dodge likes to call their transfer case a ptu unit, no idea why. The rear diff and drive shaft are expensive items, part about $800 each. If diff lip seal failed and unit ran out of oil then I can see them replacing it. Driveshaft change seems odd. Does your paper work actually say it was replaced. I think the noise could be the flex coupling on the drive the shaft( $80 rubber round thing in pic below) or if the driveshaft was not replaced then the hanger bearing on driveshaft. (thing in middle with bracket). It’s one piece shaft assembly so whole unit would be changed out. A new shaft with a bad hanger bearing possible, but very low probability. Could be flex coupler and rear diff assembly was replaced; and now entire driveshaft needs replacing. Sometimes the noise is not actually new, but was covered up by noises from the other failing parts. I’m curious, how many miles on the vehicle.

Did you get a labor quote yet? On a good set of ramps and jack stands, could still be a diy job, with a second person for reinstalling the ptu back in place. Not really the weight I would think, more the awkwardness of bolting it back in place after removal. Some vehicles go through CPS sensors because their location close to engine heat. Lots of timing belt cars have them behind the covers and timing belt. The 3.5 Santa Fe v6 CPS sensor if not changed when belt is; would take approx 4 hours to change. So there are worse locations than the Journey sensor, believe it or not.

The new Unit comes with them already installed.

The seals are for the plastic lower intake that is removed to get to heat exchanger. Seals compress over time and from being under compression. If money is tight you can reuse the seals, but IMO a little bit of risk involved and lots of time if one seal leaks vacuum. The new assembly has no dielectric grease on the two plug connections (or at least mine didn’t). Most mechanics put a dab on new plugs, helps if moisture especially salt water gets on the plugs. Copper coated electrical connections can still corrode, these plugs are pretty awkward to get to after unit is installed on engine. I think FCA is subsidizing this part a bit; something this size and complexity on cars is usually quite a bit more money than what they are charging.

Might as well do spark plugs at the same time. If you are in there that deep. I replaced the lower intake seals with oem stuff, don’t want to go back in there again. Use an inch pound torque wrench on those low torque fasteners. Die electric grease on the plugs to the oil temp and pressure sensor plugs on harness.

Unfortunately a lot of TPMS stuff is not plug and play. New module may still need to be configured by dealer or a shop with a TPMS interface tool or programmer. The early TPMS systems like in my F150 never even told you which tire was low or the actual pressures. So not really even worth fixing if they broke.

Just switched from an F150 to a 2015 Ram that a close friend owned. Seems fine first few days, hope carbon taxes don’t go nuts after COVID situation. Have owned a few Honduh’s, decent vehicles in my opinion. Good engineering and ok to work on. I haul too heavy for Ridgeline, but I wouldn’t be afraid of buying one.

It sucks to be right sometimes. On a hoist a trained mechanic can probably do it pretty fast; can’t imagine it taking over 2 hours. Getting a shop to admit this, maybe not that easy. Start shopping around for a good honest shop. Use the slightly more expensive oem part. I’m curious, how many miles are you at. Thanks for following up with this info for the rest of us on the site, decent of you. When you jam the same engine in too many different vehicles; stupid stuff is bound to happen. I also got nailed with the heat exchanger replacement; not looking forward to CPS swap.

I believe it’s behind the ptu case unfortunately. Driveshaft and case needs to be unbolted to access it. Mitchel on line mechanical guide would confirm this if someone has a log in. I’m nervous about my high mileage awd r/t. If I ever change the driveshaft I will have to pull put case to change CPS, have part already. Dealer phone call labor quote might also confirm it.

It it’s not an active drip from side lip seals or input shaft lip seal; yeah you could just top it up with a syringe of 75w90 maybe once a year. Monitor it but not fix it. The four bolts are holding sections of the differential casing together. You could try to snug them up. It might just be minor seepage from porous casting surfaces. Without a complete rebuild not totally fixable. But top ups (really to confirm level more than anything) could be best option. I did that with a Santa Fe I had for its last 4yrs on road. My journey leak was dripping daily and couldn’t be ignored. Both side seals were replaced. Leak location pretty much same spot. Seals were rotted from corrosion.

Search is your friend. Most mechanic shops capable of this repair. Check level ASAP to avoid damage, top up with 75w90 to buy more time if needed.

Wonder what the Dodge brothers would think. Wiki info pasted below. (In 1919, the brothers sold their Ford Motor Company stock back to Henry Fordfor $25 million.) After supplying parts to Ford for a decade, the Dodge brothersdecided to start their own company. Dodge Brothers Motor Company was founded in 1913 and debuted its first automobile, a four-cylinder touring car, in 1914. They didn’t just supply parts, story is they designed half the model T. https://jalopnik.com/walter-p-chryslers-great-grandson-doesnt-like-the-term-1845980170

Need a scanner other than basic OBD2 that can do transmission abs codes etc. There are sensors like the input and output speed sensors on top of the transmission case under the hood that could be the cause. Get it scanned first and go from there.

Get a Mitchel on line login for a month, has all vehicle specs. Lots of independent shops use them.