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John/Horace

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Everything posted by John/Horace

  1. Not a safety item really, or pressurized. He mentioned budget considerations. Thermowelding kit if you had one and knew how to use it better. New item not exactly cheap. Wrecker or LKQ better. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-intake-manifold-5184693ae
  2. Interesting. Should be fixable with JB Weld or one of the other automotive expoxy compounds. File the bottom flat where it meets up with other components to keep torque specs accurate. I would try to reuse for sure. Heat and long hiway miles I don’t think that hard on a vehicle. Extended idling and stop and go city worse IMO. So much plastic on all the cars for weight reduction. Mechanics often have thermo welding kits for doing this kind of repair. Tube epoxy should be good enough. Pretty appearance not relevant, just strong.
  3. Belt can squeak and not be riding edge; plies in carcass can start to break down internally. Tensioner pulley he changed bad/noisy out of the box...,yeah possible. Tensioner spring mechanism weak, maybe but burning rubber smell and very loud squeal not symptoms. If noises started when alternator was changed; it could be source. Crank pulley sometimes have multiple shims, alternator may have a single washer on the armature shaft shoulder. During reman process (new are major $’s usually) wrong thickness spacer shim or out of spec pulley installed...also possible IMO. Expensive big amp output unit, not that likely. Water pump I assume is original. Sound not changing with temperature, and no talk of glycol leaks. So pump bearing should be fine for a while. A/c compressor idler starting to get noisy, another possibility.
  4. Should start new thread. Oil cooler gushes when bad. Valve cover gasket failure seeps. Lower intake can stay in place during plug change; but you are disturbing intake assembly ; creates potential for problems.
  5. Wow perseverance. You don’t give up buddy, glad you found it. That has to be it. When I changed my oil cooler I had the lower intake removed. The fasteners also seemed a little loose on mine, but car was running fine except for the oil leak. I used an inch pound torque wrench because of all the plastic being fastened together. No atv used but I payed a fortune for the dealer seals in case there was a possible difference. I saw China stamped on Mopar bag after the fact. Sometimes in car accidents the plastic intake manifolds get cracked; if you think car might have been in one you could look for tiny cracks and maybe use silicone. Or buy a used manifold from wreckers. Wow, what a journey, thanks for the follow up. Cheers.
  6. Bluetooth usually comes on when car is started, Radio setting is to pair with phone and make it functional. I think unit will still draw power even if it not set up; if car running...it’s drawing power. When Bluetooth module screws up it stays on drawing power even with car off and key removed.
  7. https://www.thedrive.com/cars-101/39491/the-most-time-wasted-on-simple-repairs
  8. Nice clip. Sounds like belt chirp. The gates micro V belt almost looks like it has an extra ply when you hold it against other belts. Oem factory belts need to last out warranty period, so are a slightly premium product. Awkward job swapping belts out on the 3.6; I always toss my old surpentine belt in with the spare tire on my vehicles. In an emergency a ratty worn squeaky belt is better than no belt.
  9. Welcome to site. Yeah inside at passenger feet is most of the interior power fuses in a panel. Blue tooth module acting up is the worst parasitic drain issue on Journey, search site. Can pull fuse easily. How many miles, which engine ? Cars have a go to sleep sequence when the car is shut off; need to have doors closed and wait a few minutes before it will drop to lowest draw. Approx 50-100 milli amps for clock etc.
  10. In some cases they are work vehicles as well, a tool needed to do your job. Used trucks hold there value more for this reason I think. Even the crappiest old truck can still be used on a farm or Bush lot to do stuff. And are cheaper than an ATV or quad. Some people that bought suv ‘s have now moved over to pick ups because of the better resale which affects leases and loans so much. Fuel economy and comfort close enough to most suv as well. So the why is....supply and demand and market economics ; unfortunately. Carbon taxes to the rescue, soon?.
  11. My sequence for a 3.6 engine belt squeak was a little different. Squeaking noise was tensioner pulley and a new belt was installed(because of milage) and squeak gone ; then following year alternator went. The original idler and tensioner bearings seem on the cheap side. If you shake a bearing in your hand you should never hear a rattle, new or old. Grease was gone and bearings were very dry, internal wear probably so have to change. Complete tensioner is pricy so I only bought the pulley by itself. If the belt looked glazed from slipping I would have bought tensioner assembly. Idler pulley was changed during alternator job. Awkward to change later, rattled when shaken. Quality of belt is important I find. Gates Micro V make a lot of OEM belts, it’s my first choice...they are more money. Believe it or not a belt can make a squeak all by itself. Goodyear Gator Back belts have given me problems in the past, I wouldn’t use one. Alternator mounts in a fixed location against front of engine, should not be any lateral adjustment needed. Also if you spin alternator pulley without a belt; ignore any slight noises the brushes make, completely normal. Clean degreased pulleys helpful when belts replaced.
  12. Very nice truck he bought. Diesel is the best for serious towing. I’ve never owned a new pickup. My brother and I drive ram 1500 gas trucks. The independent suspension gives a real nice ride. Good value compared to other full size trucks. If you have a second vehicle you can keep the miles down for gas use. One truck has the 3.6 Journey engine mounted in line. You can work on it so easily its nuts, water pump is a 25 minute job verses 2 hr-ish for Journey. That engine with an 8 speed tranny is a very efficient set up for a pickup. But not the power like the diesel.
  13. Oops I thought it was the 3.5 belt engine, the 2.4 is a chain. Ignore that comment about belt. Is there excessive chain noise when the engine is running ?
  14. ECM rarely fail on most vehicles IMO. I have heard of it happening on occasion. I would swap in a mopar sensor first, maybe pay dealer to try and do an auto learn before dropping $450 on a guess. But before that you need to check other stuff first. When was the timing belt and tensioner changed on the engine? If you can remove part of one of the upper timing covers, I would. Rotate crank shaft slowly and inspect the exposed belt very closely; look for fraying of belt or more importantly a few damaged teeth on the belt. If belt has jumped a tooth engine will run, but shake like hell being out around 8 degrees of timing. If that is problem, change belt quick before bending valves when belt slips more.
  15. They are usually plug and play on most vehicles, I’ve changed cps on five or six different vehicles before and never had to program one, just lucky I guess. Is it a Dorman sensor or oem? Auto relearn needs a proper scanner unit with the right up to date software, there are suppose to be ways to manually reset. Pasted from a another Dodge forum is a procedure. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. The first way: 1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect. 2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. 3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds. 4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want. The second way: 1) With the key out of the ignition 2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable. 3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it. 4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min 5) Remove key from the ignition. 6) Re-attach the negative battery cable. 7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!! 8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature. 9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds. 10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE! 11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s) 12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet. 13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time… 14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want. The third way: 1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent) 2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes) 3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!) 4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so) 5) Turn key off 6) Re-install fuse 7) You're good to go ... and last. This is from a past DT thread: You can do what is often called a "hard dump". We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry". First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE. Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya. Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now. Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO) Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming. ============================================= The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects. =============================================
  16. Not an easy thing to work on, or a cheap repair. I hope to not have to deal with this thing at some point. If it works out, posting back with info about where you got diagram etc would be helpful for the site. Good luck hope it isolates problem.
  17. Welcome to the forum. Should use oem crank sensor for a critical ignition component, it’s not much more $. You could still have a bad coil still that is causing a plug to misfire. What engine is it. How long was it driven with the flashing engine light ? Who did the work, mechanic ?
  18. During extended no start cranking there would be no power at fuel pump relay from TIPM. People have made up a fuel pump TIPM bypass pigtail with a section of wiring; wouldn’t be easy. Used wrecker TIPM could be another cheaper option. It was nice when car were simpler. Not sure if corrosion or heat damage always visible on bad TIPM. Rockauto might be cheapest new part source.
  19. What the actual code numbers you have coming up. Early Journey had some TIPM module issues which is also tied into fuel pump. Could pull it out to look for green corrosion starting. Fuel pump relay could also be acting up, swap with a different relay.
  20. I belong to several forums. Some kinda bug you to sign up for stuff like that. They offer enhanced search function, fancy avatars, more photo uploads etc. It’s nice to use forums for evaluating vehicle reliability. Usually I hang around a while when I start to consider buying a vehicle. Good unbiased info hard to find these days.
  21. Lots of useful info about how fuel injection and pump work in the post. The crank sensor is used to measure engine RPM so yes it would be part of the control logic for the fuel pump.
  22. https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0191-dodge-journey/
  23. When it warms up a bit get the Journey up on stands and wipe c/v joint boots with a clean rag. Look for sign of a grease leak coming from boot. That will be the bad joint if there is one. Will turn to a knock sound when the wear gets worse. One side has a c/v shaft and an intermediate shaft that can generate noise from wear.
  24. Does the car ever stall out after it’s running on occasion. CPS sensor can affect pump coming on, but more often it causes car to randomly stall when signal to computer from sensor drops out. Wear item and fairly cheap part...not easily to trouble shoot.
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