John/Horace

It’s snake oil but ... https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiuubTSl67sAhVjuVkKHd04CWkQFjAWegQIBhAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fautomobileremedy.com%2Fmaintenance%2Fbest-head-gasket-sealer-product-reviews%2F&usg=AOvVaw3bmabUrACZw5vxZIOOjlzG

When crankshaft main bearings get too much clearance they get extra movement or travel in a side to side direction. This is called run out and can be measured with special tools. There is a spec, but when it gets excessive it starts to make seals leak. If you use a pry bar on the crankshaft pulley there should be almost no horizontal or in and out movement detected. There are two main seals, a front behind crank pulley and rear that needs to be changed with transmission removed.

Switch to heavier oil like 10w40 or 10w50 if needed, temporarily. Crank are always standard right hand thread. So righty tightly lefty loose. Sometimes there is a plastic plug in the sheet metal that pops out so an extension and socket on impact can be used. Or plastic shields remove and motor mount removed with engine supported and lowered a few inches for access.

KYB are a Japanese company, very good products. Have used them on Hyundai I had with great results. I have a cheapo compressor tool. Loaner tools are often heavy duty stuff...which is good.

Not a crazy job usually. Cost is mainly labor, part $10 ish. If engine has a knock then crank has an issue with too much run out. Seal change is a band aid and will leak again probably. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604

Front main seal behind crank pulley correct. Sometimes black light die added to eng oil for leak location. Haven’t changed one on a 3.5 dodge, but have changed on other engines. Remove surpentine belt and plastic fender liner for front eng access. Impact gun to remove crank pulley bolt, often very tight, like 180 pounds. Pulley usually walks off without puller, just light tapping, there will be a straight key that needs attention. Lip seal removing tool or large screw driver is used to pop out old seal, need to avoid scratching sealing surface during process. There are lip seal installing kits for new seal. Often a large socket can be used to tap in new seal, lube lightly with oil. Also lube contact surface on inner seal before reinstalling crank pulley and key way. Clean area where seal was with Scotchbrite before starting new seal install. Torque wrench for crank bolt, wedge pipe etc into pulley spokes against block to allow tightening (or chain strap wrench with hose to protect outer pulley groves from damage).

Glad you found a way. Curious what brand of piston/shock did you use as replacement? We’re old units original? Harbour Freight brand strut compressor or better brand?

Bleed screw is made of plastic, it’s in housing right beside thermostat. Loosen and coolant should squirt out. Don’t over tighten it’s plastic screw in plastic housing. A bad cap could be allowing air back in system like 5rebel9:mentioned, so bleed after new cap worth trying.

Welcome to forum. If gauge shows overheating and it’s not it could be the temp sensor. Isn there a numeric reading in cluster and a convention analogue arrow. Are they both showing high. If there was gunk floating around system it’s possible newish thermostat is plugged up again, they are cheap and not hard to replace.

Always start out with scanning for codes first. Several sensors like map etc can cause bad idle and stalling.

It’s turning over but not starting. CPS sensor can be bad, or timing belt has jumped, remove cover and inspect teeth on belt.

I’m not a huge snake oil believer. But I have seen it unstick a lifter and fix a few other minor things before. I like Casteol oil, they have good products. Are you the original owner and was it Castrol syn from new ?

Welcome to the site! I’m not an expert either, free advice is worth everything you pay for it. There are passages called oil galleys in all engines. Sometimes when they are designed too narrow they can start to sludge up and partly restrict adequate oil flow. The galleys being narrow as a design flaw has occurred on a few engine like the Chrysler 2.7 v6 (actually a mitsubishi design IIRCC) and the older Toyota v6 from a decade ago. People who used synthetic oil or over changed Dino oil never had issues. Others not so lucky. Mt brothers Chrysler 300 with a 3.5 was driven to wreckers with over 200k miles and no engines issues. Lots of body rust and assorted : other suspension issues exceeded car repair value. He is a person who barely does his maint, so I think the 3.5 is a tough engine. There are engine flush products on the market that you could try to see if they help oil flow inside the engine. Follow instructions closely, you damage engine if you don’t. Testing oil pressure if it’s not showing on your gauge cluster might be helpful. Oil pump pickup in pan has a screen that can start to get gummed up.

Multiple random misfire can be a split in the plastic intake manifold tubing after air filter. I’ve seen it on hyundai v6 engines although they are maf sensor engines, not map.

Glad you got it done. I figured on a rack subframe could be shifted. But rack tied up not making money during whole procedure so not a cheap job. Money well spent with your low milage. You will need reliable vehicle when dust settles from covid.

Single piece on car, like a transmission side cover that he wants to change because it is leaking.

What was battery voltage after sitting over night. Around 12.4-12.6 and your battery is probably ok. Maybe unbolt fastners on the remote battery connections and sand until shiny. Add smear of dielectric on surfaces during assembly. My 2014 were pretty dirty when I cleaned them up after alternator replacement. Was it a new or reman alternator put in.

I don’t have a 2.4. I would guess Purge vent valve is close by, it’s for emissions. Will creat code if not hooked up. Size of a D cell battery. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2012,journey,2.4l+l4,1502335,exhaust+&+emission,vapor+canister+purge+valve+/+solenoid,4936

He is not planning on removing transaxle from vehicle, want to try and change cover with it in place.

Scan for stored codes in ecm. Bad cell stays bad and drops battery voltage. What does multi meter show for volts dc. Load test on battery can be simulated with multi meter and turning on most accessories with car running. Need to scratch probes on the remote jumper posts to get a good reading. The remote contacts drops about 0.3 from main battery posts voltage of 12.7-12.8 for full charged newish battery. Did you add any LED bulbs to the wire harness?

Pic would be useful. Start car and listen for the vacuum leak, plug hose back in. Egr often has vac hose. Clear the codes that might be generated by running with vac leak for a minute.

A pic of where this bad connection is would also be helpful for other owners. Heat shrink and solder are the best electrical fixes.

Haa ha great question. The one to have back was the one I owned for the shortest time. It was a 1969 rag top I bought for $100 with almost that many parking tickets on it. Fortunately no decent computer systems to track down subsequent owners. Owned it for only one month. Replaced battery and I think starter relay. It needed a new top which was crazy expensive. Someone offered me $900 which was a $600 profit...needed the money so I took it thinking I would get another one eventually. Four decades later and eventually never came. Not practical to own a collector car, don’t have the space. The simplicity and diy capability of the VW bug taught a lot of people to fix their own car. Something that is rapidly disappearing unfortunately.

Welcome to site, nice color combo. Tranny fluid and diff and ptu fluid changes all good idea. With tranny you could easily siphon out about 4 litres a few days after the first change so you end up with around 70% new fluid approx. I believe Chrysler uses NTK O2 sensors as OEM which are one of the best on market so 117k kms a little early IMO. Rear sensors like your dad will tell you just monitor what’s coming out of cat for emissions so aren’t that critical until you have a code. Front does fuel control so very important, but I would wait until you either have stuff apart under hood that makes access super easy or your closer to 150k at least. Staying in longer does not affect how they come out, stainless threads don’t rust in usually. The spark irredium plugs are rated for 160k so I would wait until then.

And the other important detail, they often sell OEM parts cheaper. So no comprise on proper fit. Heavy stuff like rotors usually not worth buying because of shipping costs. People close to border can even buy items with recore and drop it in USPS mail next time they cross border to get their credit.