John/Horace

Transmissions are rebuilt out of the car, which is when covers come off I believe. Engine/transmission is held in place with a subframe. Mechanics often drop the whole thing on a hoist as one unit onto the floor. This involves unhooking all wire harnesses and both c/v shafts among other things. Very time consuming. . Lots of lube needed on the rusty bolts, you don’t want to remove them all the way. You may lose your wheel alignment, but you could loosen the subframe mounts and allow the assembly to drop an inch or so Without unhooking the usual stuff to lower whole assembly. Would need to support body really well on truck axle stands and have vehicle as high in air as possible. Might require a second set of hands pulling the frame back up using the big frame fastners. I had all four subframe fastner washers replaced on a 1988 Taurus under a recall. Steering wheel was off a quarter after job was done by dealer mechanic. Difficult part was now explaining to service advicer that they now needed to do alignment.

I have found light comes on when remote battery gets to 2.9 volts. A new battery usually has 3.3 volts. if you want to test light put a low battery in one of your remotes and it should come on in a day or so.

It’s possible subframe mounts that hold the engine/transmission frame against unibody needed tightening. Very large fastners and there is a rated torque spec. There would be 4 of them.

Welcome to the forum ! Are the cooling fans coming on when car is overheating. Aluminum engines very sensitive to over heating so need to fix ASAP. If there is still a small leak and air gets in system the pump can cavitate and overheating can still happen. Its possible thermostat is sticking (although usually they fail open) and it’s not expensive so worth trying, after confirming fan works, no leaks and fan belt decent.

To affect all four it needs to be something they all have in common like the BCM module. These systems without proper schematic drawings and some electrical training are not easy to trouble shoot. If you are handy and insist on throwing parts at it without diagnosing. The main drivers door switch is also a common item and not that expensive to buy. Free advice is worth everything you pay for it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624

I wouldn’t try swapping steering wheels. There would have to be the correct wiring harness already in place. A lot of this stuff is not just plug and play on the newer cars now. Ecm sometimes has to be configured for some of these options to function properly with each other. I had an older Pioneer unit with a wireless steering wheel remote years ago; it actually worked fine and strapped in place in minutes. Even hands free voice commands are getting better on most equipment if you set it up properly.

Number 3 is in the middle at the back of engine, not easy access IMO.

It’s fine to change one plug and or coil. The factory plugs are Champion, not one of my favourites. Although Monsieur Champion invented the spark plug, Ive had mixed results at times. NGK makes majority of plugs on the market, even AC Delco are owned by them now. Buy the laser cut irredium that have the same 160k rating. The platinum/irredium tip can fall off a spark plug and create a premature failure. Then generate cyclinder misfire. I had it happen to a six month old Motorcraft Ford plug a few years back. Doesn’t hurt anything, usually just exits out the exhaust valve with no damage. If your plugs have only 80k on them I would leave the other plugs for now.

I changed plugs at 148k, it’s now been 40 k on the NGK iridium plugs. Change interval is I think 160k kilometers. A shake on cold start up high idle, engine not in closed loop mode can be normal on lots of cars. Engine running rich on default start up parameters. Misfire however not normal, not enough power at plug/coil to cleanly burn fuel. There is no maf to clean on these engines. Catalytic converters can get wrecked by cyclinder misfires so it is important to deal with them fairly quickly.

Should have started a new post for this. The mil light was on and you didn’t notice, or is it not turning on light? That would create vibration, especially at hiway speed where engine and transmission are over the 1:1 power transfer ratio. Cheaper than motor mounts and a normal wear item, a win really. How many K’s on plugs? Fair amount of work changing plugs, lots of harness plugs and clips, not difficult just time consuming. I would consider having coil because of the approx 1 hour it takes to go back in a second time. Use a proper iridium plug, I used NGK on mine a year ago, working fine no issues in 40k kilometers. I usually mark a suspect bad coil and move to another cyclinder to confirm if it sets code a second time. Because of location I would put in new plugs if still original, and one new coil for middle cyclinder 3 on the rear head. Use a torque wrench for the plugs. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DceDydONPrss&psig=AOvVaw2ySTfw_l1eIiCDwdS_jRA2&ust=1600213077854000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwje1-qx6OnrAhUaAp0JHf9EDokQr4kDegUIARCwAQ

We did pretty well, an -A for 2014 my year. This is a pretty decent site for info...and they don’t hate us. https://theautoprofessor.com/auto-grade-search/

Isn’t the amp easy to access, like under one of the seats. Maybe you could try swapping units for 5 mins with Journey owner. My 2014 alpine system works well, very happy with the sound quality. I’m too far away, and border still closed for now for non business travel. Maybe car recycler for a used one if you can prove it’s the issue. I had wrecker let me test vehicle module in parking lot one time to confirm an issue. I was a regular customer which probably helped.

Welcome to the site!!! Pics from Rock auto listings, decent accuracy on line guys. I’m not affiliated with them. I highly doubt it without modifications. They don’t show any stock hitches that cross reference between the vehicles, Curt or draw title.

When mounts are bad you can usually see too much movement. The rubber flex has torn away from the metal bracket part of mount. Try to get your hands on the new part some where where you can get an idea of approx how much play there is when in normal condition. Parts Source or other parts place. The front and rear roll stopS are not hard to change on most cars; just need to support engine with a jack and piece of wood so holes stay in alignment.

Rear mount is only one that’s cheap, it’s really a roll stop more than a mount. Look if rubber has separated from the metal casting. Your milage is kinda low for a mount, but it’s possible. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10195836&cc=1502335&jsn=680&jsn=680

Engines wouldn’t be different.

It seems weird that two solenoids would fail at once. Was this engine neglected with extended oil changes. The vvt solenoids can get plugged up with missed oil changes I have heard. There is a vvt oil filter listed on Rockauto, I would try that first. Maybe remove solenoids and flush with engine cleaner. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2013,journey,2.4l+l4,1505072

If battery not charging there will be a dash code for low battery. Alternators can get weak, need to confirm amperage capacity. Random horn honk is often TIPM module . http://www.dodgeproblems.com/tipm/

I chased a weird vibration in my brothers 2008 Hyundai Entourage a few years ago (it’s still on road with 260k) and multiple mechanics looked at it, including a former 15 yr dealership mechanic. Eventually I found problem. Motor mounts and wheel balancing etc where all performed. The only hint was that it was worse under load going up hill. Turned out to be the intermediate shaft that is attatched to passenger c/v shaft. Journey has one as well. Might be able to remove from car and feel the extra play in it, without buying it in case it’s not the issue. Car needs to be moving for this to be issue obviously. Idle vibration would be other cause. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2016,journey,3.6l+v6,3353540,drivetrain,cv+intermediate+shaft,14499

You may have tried this already....Could be the coil in starter relay is flaky. Mark one in use now and swap with another one.

Welcome to the forum!!! Radio would lose stations but it shouldn’t affect anything else. You didn’t accidently arc out the cables during install, it is a crappy job changing out battery. The negative cable has an expensive current sensor built into the battery clamp, that needs to be handled carefully. If it gets damaged that could prevent starting I think. Pricy dealer only item. If you have a push button start there is a small fuse in the passenger kick panel that if blown will prevent starting. checked fuse F121 in the passenger kick panel it’s for the push button start, they call it wireless control module in owners manual. Put meter on continuity, make sure it beeps when probes across terminals.

One of the more common things to stop a running vehicle is the cps sensor. It can also cause random no starts. Sometimes no code I stored for this issue. Not an expensive part and eventually a wear item on most vehicles.Even oem part is cheap. Usually cps fault shuts off fuel pump and doesn’t stop cranking. But it can be different on some vehicles. Next time there is a no crank, pull the starter relay and make up a jumper wire. On the starter relay the two contacts that show as squiggles or moving contacts should be jumpered for a second. I think it’s 30 and 87 contacts. This bypasses all the safety circuits, so make sure vehicle is in park, even parking brake on. If you still get clicks and no start then the issue is directly related to starter unit. (solenoid, cables etc) If it always turns over with jumper it’s one of the safety/security systems acting up. Like the park neutral switch. One of the ground legs on starter relay I think is the park neutral signal. A proper wiring diagram Would show which one it is. A ground jumper to this contact would temporarily by pass it and prove if it is the problem without actually changing it out. I did this in on old jeep I had with the neutral switch buried inside tranny. Good luck.

Welcome to the forum. How is the battery in the remote, needs to be at least 3 volts, new batteries are normally 3.3. Do you have a second remote to see if it has the same issue? Are all proximity sensors working the same way with the remotes?

Scan for codes to figure out which abs wheel sensor is bad. Then replace sensor and reset with scanner.

The dude should abide with OEM spec fluids (sorry cant resist...I loved that movie). I doubt it, how long was fluid in for. What does fluid look like, it should look the same as when it was poured in. Valvoline May even make the Chrysler oem stuff. My pump had a drip at 100k miles with original fluid. The new fluids are usually an OAT formulation and there is a Chrysler spec number in the owners manual. Check the Japanese spec stuff to see if the Chysler spec is listed on container like on label below. Pics is what I have been using in my 2014 with orange stuff number 11 for two years now.