John/Horace

Scan for stored codes in ecm. Bad cell stays bad and drops battery voltage. What does multi meter show for volts dc. Load test on battery can be simulated with multi meter and turning on most accessories with car running. Need to scratch probes on the remote jumper posts to get a good reading. The remote contacts drops about 0.3 from main battery posts voltage of 12.7-12.8 for full charged newish battery. Did you add any LED bulbs to the wire harness?

Pic would be useful. Start car and listen for the vacuum leak, plug hose back in. Egr often has vac hose. Clear the codes that might be generated by running with vac leak for a minute.

A pic of where this bad connection is would also be helpful for other owners. Heat shrink and solder are the best electrical fixes.

Haa ha great question. The one to have back was the one I owned for the shortest time. It was a 1969 rag top I bought for $100 with almost that many parking tickets on it. Fortunately no decent computer systems to track down subsequent owners. Owned it for only one month. Replaced battery and I think starter relay. It needed a new top which was crazy expensive. Someone offered me $900 which was a $600 profit...needed the money so I took it thinking I would get another one eventually. Four decades later and eventually never came. Not practical to own a collector car, don’t have the space. The simplicity and diy capability of the VW bug taught a lot of people to fix their own car. Something that is rapidly disappearing unfortunately.

Welcome to site, nice color combo. Tranny fluid and diff and ptu fluid changes all good idea. With tranny you could easily siphon out about 4 litres a few days after the first change so you end up with around 70% new fluid approx. I believe Chrysler uses NTK O2 sensors as OEM which are one of the best on market so 117k kms a little early IMO. Rear sensors like your dad will tell you just monitor what’s coming out of cat for emissions so aren’t that critical until you have a code. Front does fuel control so very important, but I would wait until you either have stuff apart under hood that makes access super easy or your closer to 150k at least. Staying in longer does not affect how they come out, stainless threads don’t rust in usually. The spark irredium plugs are rated for 160k so I would wait until then.

And the other important detail, they often sell OEM parts cheaper. So no comprise on proper fit. Heavy stuff like rotors usually not worth buying because of shipping costs. People close to border can even buy items with recore and drop it in USPS mail next time they cross border to get their credit.

None of mine did and I had no misfire codes. Normally a small dab dielectric grease is put on both contact end to prevent arcing. The coil boots are only few bucks from Rockauto, https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,ignition,spark+plug+/+coil-on-plug+boot,10150

I changed plugs 2 years when doing oil cooler leak, which is a fair amount of work. Had lower intake etc removed. Plugs by themselves isn’t terrible I agree. How were the coil boots? You can buy them separately, one of mine split apart during removal. If you are getting more misfires after new plugs, maybe some of them got damaged. Coil assembly has new boot automatically included. Misfire moving around cyclinders is sometimes pointing to intake manifold air leaks. The lower intake has O rings that can be changed. Coils don’t usually work and then suddenly not work properly. Plastic intake could be affected by temperature and air flow. Misfires can mess up catalytic converters, not something to let slide IMO.

Yeah the glycol on the pulleys can chirp. Brake cleaner on pulleys to degrease sometimes helps. Alternators on V6 engines are never easy, starters in the same category. Glad you got it done.

Great you got it done. Wish we had Journey diesels over here. I think the pricing issue is the double mark up. VW sells part and marks it up, then Dodge resells it and marks it up again. We have car companies here that put their names on Korean cars that have the same parts pricing problem. Ford has used Yamaha engines on a few occasions, engine parts are almost double if you own one of these vehicles. Good engines, very pricy parts.

Crack could be mig welded if necessary. May only be scale, surface rust.

Looks like it, with an ex centric adjustment that locks against sheet metal lip. Mark where hole is, might need to go back in same spot. Spray penetrating lube into the holes, should run in behind and help free up. Try a cold chisel and tap it behind washer so it starts to separate from bolt.

I wouldn’t worry about reusing axle nut, it’s often done. Use a few drops of blue loctite if you are concerned. Size of bolt influences torque spec, if it’s a 12 mm I think 35 pds is fine. Sometimes I measure torque when removing bolt to estimate the torque, but rusted in bolts throw that off and aren’t accurate enough. I have used sliding hammer and had ball bearings flying across room sometimes. Strut is tuff and designed for load bearing. Sometimes using a coal chisel and hammering into flange shoulder between bearing and hub will break the rust free and avoid sliding hammer.

The vvt screen is possibly plugged so the solenoids may not get enough pressure to operate properly. Some kind of snake oil engine flush additive might be able to clear it out. I wouldn’t pull head off of it for cleaning, head gasket change etc pretty finicky and $. Main bearings etc may already have extra wear. Its the oil pump pickup in the oil pan I worry about the most. Could drop pan and clean it out, paying attention to screen on pick up. There are products on the market for sludge motors, as they call them. Life span may be limited. Do a compression check if you can.

Decent impact gun, vibration helps a lot. If no oxyacetylene, I like yellow MPS gas with regular torch.Wont get cherry red but often will do the job. Looks rusted in. Or break it loose with a big Johnson bar after soaking with penetrating oil. Watch those threads if hitting with a hammer.

I’m thinking traps, Lee valley has good stuff usually. Stay away from paint like you said. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/home/pest-control/insects/44955-spider-traps?item=AT225&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6eS258uA7AIVUsDICh0I5AEUEAQYASABEgIHe_D_BwE

Underneath head gasket location, yeah looks like it. Nice pic however. Makes flushing undoable , crap. Two sensors breaking at once seems suspicious. I guess put in a new sensor where broken one is, use engine cleaner on the used intake vvt sensor. With sensor plugged into wire harness and key on but not installed, the solenoid might cycle. Could allow better cleaning if you can cycle it a few times and spray cleaner into sensor openings. Fingers crossed.

I had a John Muir manual and stupidly gave it away. He was a man ahead of his time, former NASA engineer and a hippie, wow. Still have a semi useless Chiltons VW book, like they always are. Never own a 70’s car that talks about the 1949 model in the same book. Generator=no charging over 30 mph, not good.

My battery went down to 4 ish volts and seemed to come back. It’s still in there now and over night voltage is close to a new battery. Lithium also wouldn’t restart car, smart charger ran 4 hrs to revive battery. A fairly new battery sometimes can be revived, although no longer with 9 lives. New is safer bet. I’m just cheap. Sounds like voltage regulator in alternator shot, tries for a minute then craps out, also like mine did. Might be slight electrical burned smell from alternator. It looks like Denso is the factory unit, one of the best on the market normally; even said made in Japan on it. The dealer reman came with a new plastic guard and two new longer studs, instructions and torque specs ! Pricing was also better than local parts guys and they had it in stock; that’s how you get my business. Accepted old unit for recore as well. Had to drop glycol out with the hose in the way; not a terrible job really. Also changed out loud idler pulley, tensioner pulley was already done when belt was last year.

Found another pic, for the turbo 2.0 Cherokee vvt filter, very similar. Could be facing down with a threaded cap covering the cross shaped bottom part. Wish someone had Alldata log in, might show procedure and pics for cleaning/changing out. Mopar oem link for part. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-continuous-variable-valve-timing-filter-1028a025

I’m not sure either. I thought it was right below where sensor slid in and could be removed at same time for cleaning. Will check parts sites for better pics, hopefully. These vvt sensors get plugged on Hyundai Elantras and cause problems with missed oil changes. No screens on the Hyundai cars.

Clip from first diy car repair manual ever written in 1969 in New Mexico. Original spiral bound copies a collector item now. My first car was a Bettle, owned a total of 5 including a 1969 rag top, in my teens. I once had a very greasy copy of the book. This Clip was published on Jalopnik site. HOW TO KEEP YOUR. VOLKSWAGON ALIVE Which, sure! The more interesting fact is that Taos was the home of John Muir, who wrote “How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures For The Compleat Idiot,” first published in 1969. That book was one of the first—if not the first—repair guide in a genre—“How To Do X For Dummies”—that didn’t even exist yet. Combined with illustrations by Peter Aschwanden, “How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive” became a phenomenon among VW owners and sold millions of copies in the decades after it was published, updated frequently, even after Muir died in 1977. Here’s a representative snippet: “How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive” is full of stuff like this, both of its time and timeless. These days, spiral-bound versions sell for hundreds of dollars on Amazon but you can still get a paperback version there for around $25; alternatively, PDF versions aren’t hard to find on the internet if you go looking.

There is a recall on the power steering return line. Call dealer with your vin number, it’s no charge , I had mine changed on a 2014. Not sure about your year, call. https://repairpal.com/recall/16V273000

Running a battery flat once won’t necessarily kill it. Put it on a charger for a few hours. Then start up car and see if alternator is putting out enough charge. Leave the fuse out of trailer harness until you have things sorted out. Its not a short agreed,but it could be a constant power draw from harness. I went with a dealer reman alternator, best deal I found.

Alldata is $20 for 1 year or $40:for five years with coupon discount. All vehicle models and constantly updated repair data, tsb’s etc. There is a phone app apparently as well. Lots of commercial shops use this for reference. Someone sign up and post info for the rest of us. Someone with an expense account.? https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiU5KalwfrrAhXDVc0KHX2wBMIQFjADegQICBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fgivingassistant.org%2Fcoupon-codes%2Falldatadiy.com&usg=AOvVaw1r-dWC2UdTsKKD5d1awKYf